Ive got my **** apart so I can experiment to see how to do this. Hang on

 

So its tight but you might be able to get to the two bolts holding the tube onto the EGR valve. Its a 10 mm but its tight. Another option is to try a tighter 8mm socket or even a 5/16” six point socket. Its nice and tight.

I bought two new bolts for those and the new bolts at 10mm cap head instead of 8mm. They learned the hard way!


Its super tight behind the egr to get to the bracket bolt. Looks impossible



Old vs new bolt

5/16” six point socket might be the trick. Its tight. Any slop and youre done

 

The only other option is to take the egr can off destroying it. But you have access to the bolt heads from the top.

heres my old one taken apart

 

The first time I took my SC off I erroneously took out those bolts from the solenoid.

I did however manage to get it all back together ok with some finagling and posted somewhere how to do it.

 

I took this EGR apart after removing it because it was leaking from the cap and I wanted to see if there was a gasket in there. But nope

 

I'm a big believer in attending the "block off plate 101" class. I live in South Florida so it never gets much cooler than 65 degrees for more than a few hours.

 

I cant say whether I have that bracket with the arrow or not. It's pouring here and I can't see in this spot anyway.
What's the issue with that?

I've circled the bolts I've tried to remove. The heads are now rounded a bit.

If I were to cut or grind them off could I get the EGR out by sliding it over the remaining bolt shafts or would it just get worse?

 

Just happened to be strolling by and saw this. I feel your pain Staatsof! I had to do this job on both our STR and SV8 back when we were in Winnipeg, where cars are basically made of rust after a year. I had the exact same thing happen to the ERG bolts on BOTH cars. When was working on the STR, I also didn't have a small enough bolt extractor, but just went out and bought two of them from NAPA. With that, a combination of extensions and swivel joints, I made sure to line up the extractor on the bolt head (yes, I was up to my shoulder behind the engine reaching to line it all up) and then while holding the extractor on the head of the bolt, somehow got a hammer and pounded the end of the extensions. I then attached my ratchet and guess what, they came off like butter! When I tore down the SV8 about 2 years ago to change out all the hoses and rebuild the blower, I didn't even try a normal socket, I just went straight to the extractor and they came out easy peasy!

BUT, I had to go back into the STR at the same time due to a bad EGR actually. Those bolts heads had completely rusted to nothing but nubs. No extractor or anything was going to get them out. So, I took the caveman approach. Got a chisel, a big hammer, my dremmel and went to work on the EGR from above. I did the most damage I could with the dremmel without damaging anything important, then got the BFH, lined up the chisel on the cuts I could make, and went to town! Guess what, after a few good whacks, the cast iron (or whatever it is made of) part of the EGR that those bolts go through cracked, a few more whacks and it all broke apart. Once that happened, I could easily remove the bolts (one came out with my fingers, the other needed to be cut out but access was fairly good now). Not a single bit of damage to the elbow either (maybe I got lucky on that!). Now, this approach does return the EGR to it component parts, rendering it useless, but I had to change mine out anyway. Even if yours is still good, a used one isn't that much.

Like everyone else, don't give up! I did one of these jobs in a driveway in Winnipeg. Not the most pleasant situation but I got it done. If I was closer (well, I'm not that far away now that I'm living near Pittsburgh) or had the time, I'd be happy to lend a hand!

 

i had a bit of luck with my EGR bolts.
the first time i took my supercharger off , someone had already rounded the two egr bolts . and i could not budge them .
i had a cunning plan that actually worked .
i put a small slip of paper over the bolt head and hammered the 8mm hex socket over the paper . this took up the slop and it worked well .
they undone with a crack sound . very satisfying .
i replaced those bolts and had no problems with them since .

 

Yup! The ol brute force and ignorance method!

I think taking thwo two shiny egt cap bolts off, grabbing that egr cover and torqing it off, youll be able to get to those rounded bolts for whyever mean nasty brutal things it needs done to it!

 

Had another crack at accessing those two 8mm head bolts which are now rounded off.

I can't even get at them at this point. The access is just too impossible and I have as much of the wiring harness and hoses pulled back as is possible.

So I want to think about doing this differently by being more destructive from the top. I'm not willing to cut any wiring harnesses even though that's what might give more access but what about just cutting the back end of the supercharger or something off with a sawzall or some tool and then getting a new part? Pulling that solenoid off now looks to me like it could help even though everyone says not to? I don't care about the egr valve I can get a new one. Same for that tube over to the exhaust manifold. Would try to disassemble that make for a way to cut the darn thing off?

I'm also thinking about eliminating this hose under the supercharger and living with how it runs that way. What are the likely symptoms.

It's just not going to come apart the way all of you have outlined as the access to those two bolts is simply impossible.

Otherwise this goes straight to the wreckers.

 

[QUOTE=

Otherwise this goes straight to the wreckers.[/QUOTE]

Do you remember what it felt like to drive this car? Don't give up.

I hope you realize how hard it is for some of those trying to help from hundreds of miles away. You've been here a long time. Me..not so long. If I could drive to your house right now and bring my Snap-on tool box with me this weekend to help I would. I'm sure some of the Forum members here feel the same way...

If you have to get the vehicle towed to a reputable repair place and have them remove the EGR bolts.

I'm sure many of us here would hate to see a Veteran member jump ship over a design flaw.

JMHO

 

Thanks for that but ... no it's not getting towed into a shop. I've had lots of cars and know how badly that would turn out. The one guy I do use a lot because he's great at stuff like this only works on my old Suburban. There's a reason for that. He beats the crap out of the cars he works on because he works very fast in a messy shop and they're all gorillas there. Not the place for a nice car like this.

But I'm serious about trying to cut/drill my way out of this. I have all the right tools and materials for "supposedly" being able to remove this thing but I think this is just a bridge too far trying to come in from the side, underneath and blind with a very long reach. So I'd like to take it apart from above destructively only on the EGR valve if possible and Was hoping for some some tips.

I've already thought about trying to grind/cut the heads off but that's still impossible access and I'm certain about whether the grinder/saw would jump all over the place.

Not being able to see or really even feel what you're working on and barely reach just has me thinking no way Jose and I've worked on many tough mechanical projects for cars.

Besides ... I'm unclear if the EGR valve could even slide off of the stud portions of the bolts at that point and I'd still need to get those out?

 

So I'm having another look at this now. To it looks completely impossible not matter how many ties I look some of the photos posted here and read the explanations.

So far I've been able to feel what I think are the bolts holding the EGR on ??? But there's no way I can see them. So I got the right extensions and socket on hitting it straight on after two possibly futile soaks in Kroil. I can't see anything so I'm hoping I got some on the threads.
But both just eventually rounded off. Now I have the sockets for dealing with rounded off heads (see photos) But quite honestly I just can't see a GD thing and don't see anyway to improve that short of cutting the main harness away or pulling the engine which isn't going to happen. So I thought it might be best to take some photos of what I'm looking at so that maybe whatever I've missed can be pointed out?

 

By looking at your pics, i think this will help....go to jaghelp.com and read his thread on charger removal...you need to take the 2 heater hose brackets loose and fold them towards the front...then you can access the egr valve and see the bolts....i was stuck as you are until i followed his step by step and it worked...i also unplugged everything back there ,including injectors, and folded that harness up front.......
sorry bob, stupid me, this post starts out with the link i posted....overdub by me....anyway, by the looks of your photo, the heater hoses are still attached to the side of the car...try what i posted above and you should get some good working room

 

Not seeing what you or he are talking about. My heater hoses have already been removed and are tucked way to the left and are being held there with a wire tie to the electrical harness.

I do see that he mentions moving that enormous wiring harness out of the way but he neglected to say how ...

Frankly this approach seems most appealing now, taking the two bolts off of the solenoid valve. I don't mind replacing the entire EGR valve is it gets me forwar.

See here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...7/#post2145404

 

Bob, I cannot offer any words of help but I can offer you encouragement. Just hang in there. I have kept up with what you have posted over time on this project. Have patience and walk away as you have. Regroup and have at it again.

I recently helped a divorced mother of 2, deadbeat ex husband. She asked if I could change a water pump for her 16 year old daughter in a 2007 Nissan Maxima. A 2 hour project snowballed into 3 weeks in my home garage. The previous owner rounded off bolts, snapped bolts off and stripped threads. I have over 30 hours into it. I had hit road block after road block. I finally lowered the vehicle off the jack stands an hour ago. She purrs like a kitten. As far as payment, prolly $100.00, parts and a twelve pack of my favorite beer, Miller Lite. I think I might not wait until she brings the beer, haha. 🍺

Hang in there! You can handle this!!!

 

I remember doing this job. IS there anyway to get to the other side of the EGR tube to get the TB out? I have spot welded a nut onto the rounded bolt in past, no telling if that can happen in your situation. or just cut off head and deal with the longer bolt end with some extra room after the solenoid or erg pipe is is gone. The bolt is likely seized in the hole of the solenoid not in the thread, once the solenoid is off, it will back out easy. They don't make this easy and clearly assembled the engine before putting it in. I am sure Jaguar *********** loves to pull engine to do this work, and charge accordingly.

 

Well it looks like EGR valves are NLA as far as I can see, just used junkyard stuff.
It's not getting any better ... I wonder what else is NLA since I last looked?

My jag parts lookup app is missing since I went to Windows 10.

I guess I need to take a hint ...

My wife wants me to ask a shop to come buy and have a look at it. Only if they know exactly what this repair entails and the guy doing it has done it before, no we'll figure it out. But if the parts can't be bought what's the point?

OK finally found few which are new. Looks like around $400.00

 

Here is a listing for the EGR valve assembly:

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...rnedDown=false

Appears to still be available.