Hey all. 2001 S-type 3.0. Car was idling a little high, then hard starting. Temp guage not working. Cleaned throttle body. start right up but high idle. Ensured coolant level was up. Started car, ran for about 15 minutes, rad hose hot and no heat in car. Would not restart. When running, would not rev past 3000. Ideas? Thanks

 

Do not attempt to rev like that (it tries to stop you for good reasons).

Check fuel trims to see if you have an air leak.

 

Sounds like restricted performance has been commanded. Means there should be a code or three in the ECM. OBDII readers can be had from $10 up to as much as you want to spend....but if you already have a smart phone, you can be in tall cotton for $<20.

You don't say what the temp gauge is showing. "No heat" could be stuck DCCV, knackered climate control module, T-Stat stuck closed...or any combination thereof, including all.
Missing also is information regarding whether or not the car will restart after cooldown?

If it will start and run, you could swing by most any franchise auto parts store and they'll read the OBD codes for free. If so, post the actual codes here, rather than what they tell you they mean.

*Oops! I'm at least "accurate" though I missed a key statement in your initial post. While you don't tell us what the temp gauge is showing, you DO state it is not working. This information may be key, so probably should state where it is on the dial, whether stuck there, or free-floating, and most of all, whether its lack of functionality occurred in conjunction with the other stated problems or has been a long-standing fault.

 

Temp gauge resting at cold. I'm wondering if cold temp is causing computer to add excess fuel this giving high idle and if excess fuel washed cylinder walls causing poor compression

 

Check it via OBD. Then you see what the car sees and fuels using. And see post #2.

 

Started first try today. I ran it for about 10 minutes. Coolant topped up. Got some air out of cooling system. Temp gauge remained at cold. Rad hose hot. Turn of car then would not restart. Pedal to floor and car tries to start but smell of fuel. If I don't touch peddle, car just cranks.
When car first acted odd, cleared codes (p0430, p0442, p1383 & p1388). The timing code cleared late summer when I changed oil grade. Passed emissions test. Afterwards engine light on & off about 10 times then stayed on. Car still ran great. Today pending code is p1289. Don't know if this matters,, could never get heat out of passengers side. CCV?

 

, Started car after work. Unplugged cylinder head temp sensor & fan came on. So I know fan is good. Left it unplugged and rpm gradually dropped to normal idle. Bleed some air out of cooling system. Got some heat in car. Plugged temp sensor back in and idle speed doubled. Unplugged and left car for 30 minutes. Car started right up. Idle went to normal gradually. Temp gauge is stuck on cold. Cylinder heat temp sensor may not be prob but it isn't helping

 

Anyone have any ideas as to problem or suggestions for above-mentioned info? Also heat in car seems to be coming back. Thanks in advance

 

I would strongly suggest to not rely on troubleshooting by unplugging any sensors. The results could be VERY misleading.

Consider this scenario:

The root cause is an X sensor that is borderline out of range. As smart as computers are, they can't catch all faults. If the the X sensor output isn't grossly unreasonable, the computer may not realize it's bad and thus adjusts outputs to match. Driveability suffers but no relevant fault codes are generated.

Meanwhile, you disconnect sensor Y for troubleshooting. The computer reacts exactly as programmed if an important input is missing. The computer may revert to stored scheduling meant to deal with the loss of Y sensor, but all the while oblivious to the suspect X sensor reading. It should set a fault code, but some faults are not annunciated right away to avoid false alarms.

Unfortunately for you, the engine suddenly runs better after disconnecting what may be a perfectly good sensor. It would be easy to assume Y sensor was bad, but the true fault gets masked by a computer behaving exactly as programmed.

Please keep in mind I'm not stating your CHT sensor couldn't possibly be at fault. It very well may be, but unplugging any sensor can give a potentially misleading response.

 

Thanks kr98664. I get what you're saying. I could be working my way away from the real problem. With the CHT sensor unplugged the car seems fine. The temperature gauge works too until the radiator fan comes on. So you can see how I keep going back to the CHT sensor.

 

You need a working one or the engine may overheat. Disconnecting/removing it sounds most unwise.

 

Do you have the JTIS?
It's free.

There are some troubleshooting steps that might be useful in there?
.
.
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Replaced CHT sensor. Car seems back to normal. Getting stored code for CHT sensor - high output & pending code of CHT sensor - low output. Stored code may be old one. May need to clear codes and start fresh. Thanks to everyone for their input.

 

If it's fixed it will turn the MIL off. (After 3 warm ups.)