I recently changed all the plugs and coil packs on my 2002 s-type V6 with about 100,000 miles on it.

It ran ok for a couple weeks, but now won't start. It cranks hard but showed no signs of life/actually "catching". There was fuel at the nipple on the fuel rail, so I checked the 3 plugs for a spark on the drivers side and found that one of the plugs wasn't firing (#6 I think). I also noticed about a 2 mm hole which had what appears to be melted plastic around it near the connector of that coil. I checked for codes with my scanner and got nothing. I know this scanner would normally give me a code for a bad coil pack since that's how I diagnosed it before replacing them. So I'm wondering how a bad coil code comes up. How does the car recognize a bad coil?

Anyway, I guess I'll replace the one coil and cross my fingers. I really don't want to pull the manifold again!

Oh, also would one bad coil completely shut down the v6?

 

Absolutely not!


Your explanation prior to the quote above needs well more explanation. This engine is very well documented, please read some of the "HOW TO's" I will help you out where to start reading:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-52720/

 

Check for broken wire in the harness.

 

Ok, turkey day is over. Time to get back on this.

I visually inspected wiring and vacuum lines. I went to double check for codes and realized I didn't look for enhanced codes where I found a P1260, theft detected. I tried to reset this, disconnecting the negative battery and touching to positive - nothing.

 

I think that may be a dealer-level code but why would it have flagged?

 

no idea. I'm not that familiar with how that system works. I only know what I've read, which is that it prevents the car from running and must be reset by the dealer (or lock smith). This kind of stuff is really annoying for a DIY'er. I've already spent almost the value of this car in maintenance in the last year, so I'm trying to keep costs down.

 

If you're trying to keep costs down, you bought the wrong car.

 

Disconnect battery, both cables. Make sure keys are in your hands.


Fully charge battery on a 2-amp charge. Probably will take a full day.


With keys in hand, reconnect battery, positive then negative. Then, lock all doors, unlock all doors.


Vehicle should start.

 

thanks, charging now.

 

ha ha. yea, but value is subjective and changes over time.

 

Ok, thanks to tony1963, the P1260 is gone, but still not starting. I noticed something odd when reconnecting the battery. Yesterday, when I did it the fuel pump whirred to life, but made a slow bass drum like sound every second or so for about 20 seconds or so. Today when I reconnected, it didn't. Anyway, I thought I should recheck fuel at the rail nipple and there was NO fuel, even while cranking. So dummy me, I guess I didn't really check that well the first time. The fuel filter was recently replaced, so I guess it looks like a fuel pump issue.

 

Check fuel pump fuse?


I seem to recall Brutal remarking that it is pretty common for them to blow a fuse on their way out....if blown, replacing the fuse may get you a start, but that pump is allegedly then on its last legs. Just a thought.

 

I checked all fuses and relays: no issues.

I was looking into the fuel pump job. I took a look at the pump assembly. Guess I didn't realize it would be sitting under fuel! Man, one of the first things I did for this car was to fill up some premium gas cans and fill it up to 1/2. I thought it might be related to low fuel, some non-premium put in and sitting a long time.

How far do I need to drain the tank to get the pump out? At the moment I don't have anything to pump fuel or anyplace except a 2 gallon can to put it in. I guess I could put it in another car, one can at a time.

AutoMD shows 100$ labor + 100% pump. I'm thinking of just having it towed at this point

 

You access the fuel tank from under the rear seat. There is an access panel that you remove and it exposes the top of the tank where the large retaining needs to be removed to access the fuel pump. It sits on top of the tank and dangles down into the fuel.


I never recommend that anyone mess with fuel tanks at their home. Have the car towed. When mine went out, I towed it to the dealer since I was in Chattanooga at the time, had them replace the fuel pump, filter and relay. Do the same.


My cost, not including a tow, was $1,065.25. But that's me paying dealer wholesale for parts plus no sales tax on a vehicle in my inventory. You're probably looking at $1,400 to replace the parts w/labor.

 

As was posted above Jaguar had the good sence to make getting at the pumps (You know you have two?) a bit easier than on older cars.

Here is what you are looking for. Some have called it a two seater out house! This is a Lincoln LS but it's the same floor pan.

The plastic covers and such are a bit odd so I would do some searches as people have figured it all out before. You might also check that the hose from the pump to the top fitting is good. Several people have found holes in the hose and it has been reported that the hose has fallen off too.

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Yes, I've read there is a pump on both sides, but it's pretty unclear to me the role they play. It seems like most people who "replaced the fuel pump" replace the pump on the right side.

I actually already took the blue cap off the pump assembly on the right side, but saw it covered with fuel, so I thought I might just look into how much it would cost to have it done. Local shop returned a call with a quote for 540$. Unfortunately, they left a message and I need to get details on what that means. Right side only? Just the pump? Labor vs parts. They say they need to order the part, which is odd since auto zone 1 mile from the shop says they have it. Unless they are ordering an OEM part. I doubt it since I thought that part alone is $500+.

I may just be back to doing it myself. Hopefully I'll get on the phone with the shop tomorrow and sort it out.

 

Be careful with aftermarket pumps. Most just contain the actual metal pump and mechanics cut through the OEM pump and bypass it and hook up the part with hoses and it looks like rubber spaghetti.

If you plan on keeping the car - get a OEM fuel pump "assembly".

The other pump (on the left) is called a "jet pump" which is designed to keep the fuel level even on both sides of the tank.

 

Ah, ok. Then it seems a no fuel problem would be linked to the right-hand pump. Ok, after looking at parts for a bit online, I'm still puzzled by a couple things. First, it appears the same part # XR822164 is being used for just the metal pump AND the whole pump assembly. Here's just the pump for 500$:

2003-2004 Jaguar S Type Fuel Pump 36-10223

I'm guessing this is an OEM pump based on their being just the one fuel connector.

Here's the whole assembly for $495:

Jaguar FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY NEW - XR822164-OE

Would it just be easier to replace the whole assembly? Interesting that this price is less than the pump above.

I'm assuming the pump below from auto zone is one that needs the splicing mentioned. It appears to have 3 fuel connectors. I really don't want to do this:

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-deliver...1_723662_11856

However, auto zone has the whole assembly for 159$:
Spectra Premium/Fuel Pump D2322M at AutoZone.com

So the plastic container is just 40$ more?

 

the 2003 - 04 Fuel Pump you mentioned is not correct for your car - so scratch that..

The auto zone assembly for $159 you mentioned looks to be a direct fit assembly at a great price!! http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...20AutoZone.com

will be a much better option that having the mechanic splice and cut.

Yes, much easier to replace the entire assembly..

Just disconnect the fuel lines and electrical harness, drop the auto zone replacement in and hook up lines and harness.

You also want to order a green o ring from Jaguar. (Unless the replacement fuel pump assembly comes with one. DO NOT re-use the old one even if it looks good.

Hope this helps - Anthony

 

Back it this again. First thing: I noticed others had trouble with the white fuel line connector. Me to. I ended up fabricating a tool out of a piece of 1" by 1/8" aluminum a few inches long, with a u-shaped cutout that fit the connector.

So now I have the old pump assembly exposed. I'm not sure how it comes out. Ive pulled on it a bit, being careful since I couldn't really see how it's connected. There's still fuel in the tank with about 2 inches of the assembly exposed. Pumping fuel out has been a pita. The new pump just has three rubber feet and then a ratchet-looking thing along one side.

Should the pump pull out if a give a good enough pull? Or do I need to keep pumping fuel and expose a connector or something?