Hi There.. Our 2005 S type 3.0 wont turn over..We bought the car in this condition. The ignition switch , when turned to the on position turns on the gauges and such , but when you turn it to the start position it wont activate the starter at all.. I have tried searching the posts but am not having much luck.... I have tested all the fuses and they are good.. Is there away to safely jump a relay to get the vehicle to start or can it be a bum ignition switch? I love the car but its been beating me up the past couple days.. Thank you for any suggestions, Mack.

 

First, the obvious power source of the starter motor, etc. must be addressed: battery. Though the dash lights illuminate, the battery may be in a weak state of charge or have a weak cell. Check the battery's cells and state of charge. It may have to be replaced if it's four or more years old. Check the battery connections, etc. Give us some meat to dig our teeth into.

 

Safely support the vehicle on jack stands and using a test lamp, check to see if there is power to the starter solenoid when the ignition is turned to the 'start' position. If the test lamp lights up, then the starter motor will need to be replaced; if there is no power, the electrical part of the ignition switch and other components in the circuit will need to be checked.

 

Get a hygrometer from an auto parts store and check each battery cell. I'm bettin one or more is weak or dead.

 

Thank you BFSGross . I did install a new battery and checked all the fuses.. There was a relay missing in the passenger fuse compartment and I also purchased it. When I turn the key , I can now hear the relay click in the passenger compartment fuse box. I will now get under the vehicle and test to see if there is power going to the starter . Thank you again for your help...

 

NBCAT.. Thank you for the helpful tip.. I am going to get under the vehicle and use the test lamp while a friend turns the key to the start position... I will keep you informed of what I found and Thank you again...

 

mack, why the heck was there a relay missing? Didn't you say you recieved this Jag not running? Just curious....

 

HI BFGross and all.. Yes When I was checking the passenger compartment fuse box , comparing it to a handbook that i downloaded from this fantastic web site, a 40 amp relay was missing .. I purchased one and installed it. i can hear it click when i try to start it . Today I got under there with a test lamp and there was power to only one side of the solenoid . I removed the cover over the ignition switch and when turned to the start position the power is there , but not at the solenoid...
i also noticed that the steering wheel isn't locking and when you apply the brake you cannot take it out of park...... Thank you again for any advice from you folks.. I sure would like to get this one on the road, i cant wait to drive it....,mack

 

HI NBcat.. Thank you for the tip.. I went under there and there is only power on one side of the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position ..I pulled the cover off under the ignition switch and tapped into the starter wire and there is power there but it does not transfer down to the solenoid.. I also noticed that the steering wheel does not go into the lock position and I cannot take it out of park when the brake pedal is depressed .. Thank you for your previous help and i appreciate any response..Thanks mack

 

There should be two wires going to the starter motor: one large one that always has power and the smaller one, usually 18 gauge that only has power when the ignition switch is turned to the 'start' position. If you have no power to the smaller wire when the switch is set to the 'start' position, but the electrical part of the ignition switch has power coming out, follow the wire from the starter solenoid back to the relay or switch. Hopefully you have the schematic diagram for the wiring layout, which should help you with tracing the wires. You can confirm whether or not the starter itself is good by using a jumper wire and CAREFULLY energizing the starter solenoid from a 12-volt source such as the battery. If the starter engages the flywheel, then the problem is with the wiring; if it does not, the starter motor is faulty.

If the shifter is not engaging the lock out device, then check the neutral safety switch, its wiring and any associated fuses. Check for disconnected, cut or spliced wires. If the previous owner removed the relay, it's possible they performed other 'modifications' as well! Best of luck!

NBCat

 

Use this link It is for a 2004 MY car but I think yours will be the same http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...x2062004en.pdf and go to page 33 you will see a starter mega fuse that is in the trunk of your car. You need to check the fuse, keep in mind that it is directly off the battery so be careful. That fuse is often broken when the tire is loose in the trunk or when it is moved. I hope this helps.

 

Thanks NBCat.. , for the info.. the solenoid has a total of 3 wires going to it.. It may be that one was added but two of them have power . the third wire (green and white ) has no power when the switch is turned to start , I did apply twelve volts to the green and white wire on the left side of the solenoid and the starter turned over but the car did not start... Thank you again Cat for the information and i will keep checking the wiring..

 

Hi Gus and Thank you for the link.. .I did look and test the mega fuse in the trunk and it checked out ok...That link you provided sure helped and when i looked further into the cars passenger compartment where the ecm is .. it looked like someone prior added wires there and also at the ignition switch wires were tamperd with.... I have a feeling its the ECU.. just the way it was jimmy'd up... I hate to put the money out for it if it is not but when i looked at the link it showed the starter relay drive and the park neutral circuit are right next to each other and wires there have been sliced and spliced...Thank you again for your response.. You Folks are GREAT...,mack

 

Well, at least you know the starter is still servicable! Trace the green/white wire back through the circuit and you'll find the cause. May be a bad connection or the neutral safety switch, which prevents the vehicle from being started when the gear selector is in anything other than 'P' or 'N' positions.

Since you have three wires going to the starter motor, the large one goes to the battery while the other one with power goes to the alternator. The one without power is to energize the solenoid when the key is placed in the 'start' position.

Good job so far!

NBCat

 

From reading your other responses to this thread, it appears you have a vehicle that someone tampered with electrically. English cars are not known for their robust electrical systems to begin with, so you have your work cut out for you!

Remember to stick with the basics and trace each wire with an ohmmeter if need be (while the battery is disconnected at the negative terminal). With all the cutting and splicing, there may just be a series of poor connections, or you may need to replace the neutral safety switch or ignition switch if they've been shorted.

Best of luck,

NBCat

 

Thanks again NBCat.. I will trace that wire back to the neutral safety switch and also look at the switch.. Can you tell me if it is located under the trans or in the inside of the vehicle.. Thank you very much again for your kind help, mack

 

Quick point: the ref to English cars and electrical is out of date by say 15 years. Not much wrong nowadays so don't distrust the original build.

However, very much panic when someone's messed as posted above.

You basically can't hotwire a car like this. The PCM talks to multiple other modules, all with computers, to prevent theft (variant of Ford PATS).

Watch the PATS light (the red one that, when car locked, should flash every 2 secs or so top of dash) as you turn to ign II. Should self test and go out. If it starts flashing watch for a pattern over the next min or 2 then look up what it means.

BTW, car & handbook fuses & relays may not be identical due to various options fitted/missing and there can be doc errors. Go carefully.

Er... what codes are stored?

I'd read ALL the modules, looking for clues. This sounds a car where you may NEED full Jag-type OBD tools.

 

mack, though there's a place for a relay and a handbook indicates one could be there, doesn't mean for that particular car a relay should be there. In otherwords, your car may not be optioned for that relay and its intended function. The relay port may be for a diesel powered -Type, etc.

 

Did you try moving your shifter from “P” to “N” and try starting?

 

With reference to English cars and their electrical challenges: while they have improved, they are still not to the level of the Japanese or even German cars as is witnessed by how many vehicles have loose connections due to the silly design of the Ford connectors.

I don't believe anyone is suggesting nor even trying to 'hotwire' the vehicle in question, only attempting to make a complete diagnosis before replacing any parts.

Agreed that the vehicle may require tools beyond a test lamp and jumper wire.

NBCat