I'm impressed by NBcat's and all's wisdom and expertice given to the OP in this thread.

 

German cars have plenty of problems. Look here and I really can't see your statement on connectors applies to S-Types.

On hotwire - he specifically mention the ECU and "jimmy'd up" which sounds rather like someone's been up to no good, especially when added to the other details.

 

I must admit I was rather surprised when a friend first approached me to have a look at her 2001 S-Type with the Ford Duratec V6 displaying a message about the car having a transmission fault (Ford 5R55N gearbox) that was in fact caused by shorted coil-packs on bank 1. The surprise on my part was how all the plastic connectors to the coil-packs were broken with the wires only loosely held in place by the position of the wiring harness. Someone else had apparently worked on the coil-packs prior to her owning the car and had broken off the locking clips, which are rather flimsy to begin with. I noticed several other connectors were brittle or broken and just pushed together. It's a good thing this is a dry climate most of the time or she would certainly have other electrical issues to deal with on this car.

For her next car, she will most likely go back to Lexus (Toyota).

 

Good plan. Best to stay away from ham-fisted people messing with stuff, also.

Our climate's wet & damp but if you look on the UK site you'll see we're not affected the way you predict.

 

It won't help to get a Lexus if it's been man handled like her Jag was???

Your problem is not with the car but with the repair people. If you do any research you will find breaking the plastic connectors on any COP engine is VERY common.

People get in there and don't know how to properly release the plug and get rough with it. It's only plastic (and they are ALL plastic!!) so it will break.

Ford sells these plugs and they can be replaced but they generally are just half assed put together like you found. It just won't work very well in that condition. replace the broken plugs and you won't have any problems.
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I think we need to focus on macksjaguar's starting problems before we lose track altogether.

 

Without more tests and their results I can't think of more.

 

Thank you JagV8 , I did watch the pats light and it blinked constantly for the first minute and the second minute it blinked every 3 seconds . The third minute it went out completely.However it still wont crank over.. I couldnt seem to find where to search for the pattern for pats.. I also tried to find where to add the vehicle in my signature line and could not figure that out either..

 

I think it should be a repeated pattern and it's in JTIS. Long time since I read it but may be 2 digits, each indicated by long/short but pretty sure it's explained in there. May be in a pdf on here in which case this is how to go about finding it if you have trouble:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...dvanced+Search

User control panel, somewhere. I just clicked around till I found it.

 

HI Gus and yes i sure did .. I had to manually unlock the jgate , because i cannot get it out of park when the brake is applied..I moved it through the gears as I was holding the key in the start position..

 

Question what relay did you install? If it were me I would swap like relays doing this should eliminate a bad relay in the system. Also it is a possibility that your exciter ring is not working or the car does not recognize the key. Do you know if you have a reproduction key?

 

Hi Gus and I am not sure about the key , but it does look like the one in the handbook.. The relay i installed was in the passenger fuse block and it is called cig lighter ,power point..

 

Hello Everyone that has been helping me with this problem....

I found a ground wire off in the passenger compartment.. I hooked it up and when I stepped on the brake the shift did unlock out of park .. The message center on the cluster said engine fault.. I hooked up this ob2 that i have and WOW.. 8 codes came up.. PO 108 , PO 112, PO 182, P 1000, P 1638, P1642 , P2118 and P 2135 .
I also watched the PATS light and it blinked constantly for the first minute..The second minute it blinked at 5 seconds and then 3 seconds.. I just downloaded the manual that JAGV8 had kindly referred me to but have not had a chance to read it yet// THANK YOU SO MUCH EVERYBODY..

 

That is Progress! Excellent.

Now, the codes PDF is both in JTIS and the FAQs here. The far right column tells you the known causes of each code.

With a car in distress you inevitably get some codes which are best ignored at least to start with. P1000 is an example. Battery off will cause it, or clearing the codes.

BTW, for letter O read digit 0, and no space.

I figure you've had a really good look for any more disturbed wires (if not, do).

edit: P2118 & P2135 aren't in JTIS as they were defined after JTIS ceased. google with care to get a feel for them, at most.

It's slightly risky but you might want to clear the codes to see which come back first or at all.

Also, you'd be wise to make sure the battery doesn't go flat or you'll get a fresh batch of codes.

 

Well done! I'm certain you'll find additional wires disconnected or wrongly connected.

Were you able to get the starter motor to engage while turning the key?

NBCat

 

Thank you JAGV8.. I will look for more disturbed wires.. I have an old computer and was able to download the information on the PATS .. but this old computer wont allow me to open it.. I will try to search the forum for it.. Thank you so much again..,mack

 

Thank You NBCat.. I wasnt able to get the starter motor to turn in the start position..In the passenger compartment near the ECM there is a couple wires that were added to the fuse panel, I am going to try and see where they went or are coming from.. I also had watched that light on the dash and it either blinked 5 seconds and then 3 seconds or my count may be off a little and it may have been 4 seconds and 2 seconds.. Thank you again ,I will keep trying.. ,mack

 

Did the previous owner add an aftermarket alarm or stereo system?

If you have access to an ohmmeter it can be very useful with this type of diagnosis so you can see if the wires are connected or shorted to ground. If you don't want to disconnect the battery, you can also use a voltmeter to determine when each wire is powered or not.

NBCat

 

If it is PATS anti-theft lockout then you're going to need a jag-type OBD tool to clear it and it will not start until that's done.

 

Hi JagV8 and Thank you for the help.. I will try to locate the tool..