LOL. Posted this in the wrong thread.

 

1. Just have to remove the center stack. I'll attach stereo removal instrucitons which should cover it.

2. The DCCV is powered by Transistors to regulate heat flow. It provides +12v to open the valves. What happens which hurts the climate control module is as follows. The OUTPUT lines of the transistor move to ground (to open the valve). +12v is provided to the valve by the center pin / wire in the connector. When some DCCV's fail, they short the pins in the connector. And you put +12v directly on the Ground output of the transistior. For SOME reason, Jag engineers never thought this would happen, so now you have a dead shorted transistor. Granted there is a 10amp fuse on the DCCV +12v supply (also combined with the A/C compressor coil +12v supply), but unfortunately the trace from the transistor output to the pin on the back of the CCM cant handle the 10A and burn up (act as a fuse).

3. I never sourced a Specific diode, under NORMAL DCCV operation The current shouldn't exceed 1 Amp so any 1A diode should work. The objective being to isolate the output so only negative can pass. Cathode facing the DCCV.

4. I'd swap the DCCV first. No way for a GOOD DCCV to be damaged by a damaged control panel, BUT if the control panel is damaged, its BECAUSE of a bad DCCV.
I don't think the control panel is damaged as often as people think. I've seen 50 guys come on here, no heat or constant heat on one side etc, tell them to swap a DCCV and it's fine. The DCCV has to fail in a very specific way to case this damage to the control panel.

Take care,
George

 

I have the same problem in 2003 s-type 4.0..changed the heater valve, started the car blew cold for like ten minutes then back to hot air...can anyone help

 

Hot as in heat? Or no a/c

Take care,

George

 

Blowing hot air through driver and passenger side vents, also even if the a/c is off i can feel air coming through the vents..

 

I am trouble shooting some what the same issue.

I switched out the DCCV and sent the Dual Climate Control Module out to have a Diode replaced last year, it worked fine all summer. Over the winter my Mechanic son did some oil leak work on the Princess and saw that the A/C compressor was leaking oil so he installed a new one last week. He had difficulty getting the compressor to come on/ power up at the shop. It finally worked and I took it home. It is now doing the same thing. I can hear it occasionally turn on and it will run for about 30 minutes then cycle off and not come on again. I am checking the 3 Evap sensors in the dash in hopes that is the problem if not I will do the voltage tests to see if it is the DCCV. The Dual Climate Control Module should not be the issue since it has the one way Diode. Any thing else I should check?

 

I would suggest to double check all the work done on the compressor, it was good befpr that was done?

 

No it was acting up over the winter (which was not an issue till we started having 80 degree days in March in Atlanta LOL). The compressor had been over charged by a different repair shop and blew the seals and was leaking oil. We replaced it before it flew apart. We thought is was just that the system was seizing up.

Now that all was replaced it will start intermittently/seldom, blow ice cold air then cycle off and will not start again. It seems to start if I am not moving and it is sitting in the drive running. I have gotten to only one of the cabin evap sensors, divers side, and will see if I can get to the 2 behind the glove box this weekend. The drivers sensor was filthy so I expect the same for the other 2. I will change out the cabin air filter too while I am at it.

I am returning it to my son's place next week to have all the voltage checked and see if it's more than I know how to fix.

 

Gentlemen, i am new to this forum. having the same issue with
blistering hot air flowing out of all a/c vents. really hot.

I bought the ford /Lincoln Ls heater valve and put it in myself.
I installed a new thermostat as it is part of a large conglomerate
of hoses and Just bought the whole part.

not one iota of help. still blows blistering hot air.
so, from what i can tell i need either the contol module or
the possibly the wiring harness to the dccv.

any ideas?
best regards from Texas , USA
Andrew

 

Best plan is probably to read a few of the recent threads about DCCV etc and follow the tests / URLs they point to if you can use a DVOM and so on.

 

Also post an intro so you can access all the info available.

 

It seems like I'm have the same problem that many of you are having with the air conditioner where it is blowing out warm air out of the outside vents and blowing half warm and clod air through the middle vents what is causing this and how can I

 

I did't get to finish my question how can I fix the problem with the air conditioner, could it be the heater valve or DCCV or they the same thing any help out ther would greatly appreciated

 

Can anybody tell me where the low side service port is located and is it reachable from the hood or do I have to get to it from underneath

 

Not accessible from engine bay (the other port is).

It's underneath. Turn wheels fully and you can see it I think.

 

As jagV8 said and its Passenger side on right hand drive car towards the rear of the wheel arch in the engine bay. Pretty clear to see when you stick your head in there


On a side note after replacing my DCCV and replacing the track in the control module the fault reappeared a few weeks later. This was due to corrosion at the connector located under the bumper just where water and dust can get to it when driving Stupid place to put it.

 

Help
I had my jag shop replace the DCCV and I put in a new CCM. The AC still blows hot air. Any suggestions what to look at next?
Thanks,

 

Welcome to the forum.
I'm fresh out of new suggestions, but there are numerous threads you could read.

 

With jag tools you can read each of the multiple sensors and see if they're OK. I suspect you can even exercise the door motors (i.e. command any of the actuators).

 

My valves are good but were passing hot water because no ground to energize the solenoids. So I grounded the outer two wires (the center is 12v+ constant) and my air is cold. If no 12v+ on center check fuse #32 in right side floor fuse panel, bottom row 4th slot from last on right.