I'm pretty sure you have to have it done at the dealer but I always got a loaner car for free so that's the good thing about going to the dealer!

 

All warranty work does have to be done at the dealer, but Jaguar has one of, if not the best extended warranty and the dealers are usually very good about taking care of their customers.

 

Based on my experience only, I would recommend the Jaguar Select Edition Warranty. I was able to roll in the warranty into my asking price. So far, the dealer I take my car to has been very good to me. Getting approval for work is probably easier for a Select Edition warranty than a third party warranty.

Mike

 

By all means go for the select edition warranty if available. It makes the difference of watching this board to make new friends and make sure things are kept up (me now) and watching for financial planning purposes (me after expiration in Oct.) I went for an aftermarket warranty as well but covered items are very specific. Select edition warranty covered the following:

Head rests not working (no movement, heard motor running).
Windshield air leak.
Replace "third" brake lamp assembly.
Problem with "memory" function to set seats, steering wheel, etc.
Outer rear side window seals have gap to glass (attempted, not repaired, I needed car back to get it registered).

The cost of these probably would pay for certification and cost of aftermarket warranty to cover things of this nature is a lot steeper.

Even though I would not get money back on aftermarket warranty. I am considering trying to see about getting re-certified if there is such a thing.

I ended up with it as it is transferrable to new owners if you sell the car.

Good luck!
Steven (1avguy)

 

Follow up:

I am second guessing my own advice, maybe.

I checked in to extension of existing cetified select edition warranty. There is an upper limit of eight years and 100K miles to extensions. The years are from "model years" so we are now in 2010 (jag time) my 2003 has only a two year extension available, even though it is under 35K miles. Price is about $3,000 plus inspection/oil change ($200).

They also offerd a warranty by Fidelity for about the same price for three years and for about $3,700 walking it out to six years and 60K miles from date of inception. I am still checking the Fidelity warranty out as dealer service manager indicated they require use of used parts when available after a certain mileage.

If there is anyone out there with specific knowledge of level of support by Fidelity, let me know.

I have been well taken care of and at face value would probably go for the jag extension. Also thinking. I just went through everything with fine tooth comb. During the 35K to 60K mileage range what is track record others have seen in repairs?

I read the terms of my current after market warranty thrown in from used car dealer. Probably would be worht more as toilet paper than reading material or instrument of service so I will try get refund.

Both warranties are transerrable.

Opinions anyone?

Steven (1avguy)

 

Is it Fidelity or U.S. Fidelis? If it is in fact U.S. Fidelis, do some very careful research before you decide to spend your money. When doing some very extensive third-party extended warranty research earlier this year, I saw some very negative opinions and comments about U.S. Fidelis with some customers even calling them nothing more than a scam. Be careful out there....

As for me, when our S-Type's factory warranty ran out about 40 days ago, I decided to add $2,000 to one of our existing money market accounts as my S-Type emergency maintenance fund rather than purchase an extended warranty. I've never needed one before on any of our previous vehicles and I hope that turns out to be the case with our base model S-Type 3.0 V6. If we had an STR, I'd be more inclined to spring for an extended warranty. But it's my wife's car and she certainly does not need an STR, nor do I want to pay for the excessive maintenance and insurance required to keep those STRs running in top condition....

 

It is Fidelity they are offering. I think U.S. Fidelis would probably be similar to the drive train only warranty I have now where only internall lubricated engine and transmission parts are covered and only if the failure was caused by an internally lubricated engine or transmission part (pretty safe bet for them).

Appreciate the insight. Monday I had the amber engine light blues. Required a module that ran about $1,000 to $1,200 in parts. When they were investigating the "whoop chirp" in transmission they found a broken connector pipe on xmission as well as a few other incidentals. This visit and previous visit to "clean up" anything that would be covered probably would have totalled $4,000 at gealer prices (warranty invoice does not show prices).

I had to pay 57.50 for the transmission additive, installed no charge as they were "in there anyway to fix connector pipe" where I guess it is a 2 hour process?!?!? if done separately. As this fix may or may not be permanent and I have about 25 days to decide on renewal. I need to be in good shape if transmission replacement is needed. I am documented with jag the problem exists but that might not hold water later. The dealer has indicated they have had the "whoop chirp" problem on many vehicles due to moisture accumulation and all but one were resolved with the additive.

The irony is I have extreme faith in the basic engine components of this vintage and that is all that is reasonably covered.

Always done all my own mechanical work as only one car ever was purchased new (great 2003 sebring w/v6 and 5-speed now for sale). Alfa Romeo's and BMW's are in my arena. This cat is a different animal with respect to required knowldege base and specialty equipment. While I can get past that with a manul and judgement as to when to call in a professional, I can not get past the potential transmission replacement cost.

I probably also need to talk to a master tech regarding the whoop chirp transmission issue to see if it is repairable or maintainable as opposed to Jag's predominate answer the entire assembly must be replaced.

Regards,
Steven (1avguy)

 

1avguy, as you're familiar with BMWs maybe you can investigate the transmission issues on those as quite a few use the same ZF 6HP26.

 

I have a DIY procedure to fix that. I just did mine. Will try to post over the weekend if you want to try it yourself.

 

Hey H20

Do you also have a coupe? I though you were a rag top guy. If so, do you have dent in your head where you hit the roof arch when you exit the car dumph!! (make homer simpson noise).

Steven (1avguy)

 

I am pretty good on mid 60's to mid 70's or earlier vintage stuff. Absolutlely useless once you open up an automatic. Can hold my own on an early manual xmission but i am not a leader.

If yor building a 1955 to 1975 or so alfa engine, a BMW 1600-2, 2002, 318i engine, pretty good at basics and hot rodding. Probably translates to xke series I or II 6 cylinder valve train, weber set up, Lucas electrical, etc. are areas where cross pollenation can help.

Modern automatic transmissions - knowledge of princples of operation and probably futz my way through with a manual with help from others but I am not a good resource unless you are in the mood to cast cash to the wind.

Good luck!
Steven (1avguy)

 

Steven, yah...no coupe here, and i'm not sure about the rear 1/4 glass arrangement compared to mine. I jumped in on your glass question, hoping to see what the heck you're talking about.