seperate s/c cooling from engine cooling
#41
Haven't read much about pumps failing, but changed one on a STR to the Bosch one (part number 0 392 022 002), it flows about 14% more than the stock Hella one, and can be had for about $120.
Also I am not aware of any extreme cold weather issues, I had some good power at -10 and that is the coldest I have experienced so far.
Also I am not aware of any extreme cold weather issues, I had some good power at -10 and that is the coldest I have experienced so far.
#42
I am in the process of installing a Killer Chiller system in my 2000 XKR. I have already isolated my cooling system & added a second pump to the circuit. As Andre has stated before the heat exchanger in the front only helps when the ambient temp is lower than the coolant temp. With the Killer Chiller fitted you would be heating the coolant coming out of the intercoolers as they are able to get the temp down that low. They recomend instaed of the heat exchanger using a larger resevoir. The system I have designed will have the cooling system running in a reverse direction with the factory pump drawing the cooled water from the Chiller to the intercoolers which gived me the coldest temp the water exits the intercooler & is monitered by an inline temp gauge to the second pump which will then feed a custom made resevoir then feeding the Chiller unit. The tank will hold app 1 gallon of coolant with a bleeder fitting at the top going to the resevoir. They claim I should see coolant temps coming out of the intercoolers as low as 50, where as now it will go as high as 150 under heavy boost (18+) for extended runs. I have not measured my IAT2 temps to compare to the coolant temps. I have read quite a bit about the system & it appears to really work. If it works as expected I will have my larger heat exchanger for sale if anyone is interested. I think the combination of water methanol injection & the Killer Chiller the car should run much better in the waarn weather.
#43
#44
Just saw this and thought I'd let you all know that the pump is easy to get at and not that hard to replace or work with. I changed mine in about 15min and other than getting coolent all over me and everything else in a 1 mile radius it was simple. I actually have another one sitting around as I got the P1474 due to a blown fuse that I think I missed in my problem solving process! From the work I did on the system it seems that as some have mentioned, they are for the most part seperate other than a small connection for pressure reasons. I think the best would be fans for the intercooler radiator as again was previously mentioned.
I can also speak to the cold temperatures and performance. There is definatly more power available and colder temps. I have not had issues with the car handling intake temps as low as -45C and there is more power at these temps, at least to the butt dyno!
I can also speak to the cold temperatures and performance. There is definatly more power available and colder temps. I have not had issues with the car handling intake temps as low as -45C and there is more power at these temps, at least to the butt dyno!
#45
I am in the process of installing a Killer Chiller system in my 2000 XKR. I have already isolated my cooling system & added a second pump to the circuit. As Andre has stated before the heat exchanger in the front only helps when the ambient temp is lower than the coolant temp. With the Killer Chiller fitted you would be heating the coolant coming out of the intercoolers as they are able to get the temp down that low. They recomend instaed of the heat exchanger using a larger resevoir. The system I have designed will have the cooling system running in a reverse direction with the factory pump drawing the cooled water from the Chiller to the intercoolers which gived me the coldest temp the water exits the intercooler & is monitered by an inline temp gauge to the second pump which will then feed a custom made resevoir then feeding the Chiller unit. The tank will hold app 1 gallon of coolant with a bleeder fitting at the top going to the resevoir. They claim I should see coolant temps coming out of the intercoolers as low as 50, where as now it will go as high as 150 under heavy boost (18+) for extended runs. I have not measured my IAT2 temps to compare to the coolant temps. I have read quite a bit about the system & it appears to really work. If it works as expected I will have my larger heat exchanger for sale if anyone is interested. I think the combination of water methanol injection & the Killer Chiller the car should run much better in the waarn weather.
#46
That is not IAT but the temp of the coolant coming out of the intercoolers. I am monitering the coolant temp at its hottest point. I have seen this temp go as high as 150 under normal cruising it runs around 20 degrees higher than ambient. I always have the water methanol on, there is a noticable decrease when it is off. The goal with this system is to have the car perform as it would if it were the middle of the winter. They say if you sit at idle for a few minutes the temp of the coolant is cold to the touch. I wiil moniter the change in IAT & IAT2 with my computer & compare the difference once I have the car running. I have a few things to modify before the system is completed, ie a.c hoses & resevoir.
#47
#49
Good that you are trying this setup, though I do not doubt that it will work/help. However all depends on your driving habits, and where (/how long) you need the power.
The front radiator will of course work contradictive to the killer chiller once that is able to cool down below ambient temps, so indeed a reservoir would be much better with this system.
I can remember that ford had such a HVAC system, where it would cool a separate circuit/reservoir, and as soon as you put the throttle down, it would open a valve to route the coolant from the cold reservoir.
I have no experience with the killer chiller and how much reserve you could build up before the coolant will be higher again than ambient temp, all will also depend on supplementing systems like the alky.
The ideal system would be to have also an intercooler radiator but with the flow controlled via valves. So the flow thru the radiator should only be opened when the intercooler coolant temp is 15 Celsius above ambient temp, and close when 5 Celsius or lower. The advantage here is that 1) Safety mechanism when the killer chiller is not working for whatever reason, 2) Once the killer chiller isn’t able anymore to cool (after a long run), the radiator can help again.
Is there anyone that can make a circuit that can switch at Delta Temp +15 and switch back at delta temp +5 (settable temp settings would be ideal, this is just an example).
Then only a valve is needed that in default state is always set for the +15 (so with Radiator setting).
The front radiator will of course work contradictive to the killer chiller once that is able to cool down below ambient temps, so indeed a reservoir would be much better with this system.
I can remember that ford had such a HVAC system, where it would cool a separate circuit/reservoir, and as soon as you put the throttle down, it would open a valve to route the coolant from the cold reservoir.
I have no experience with the killer chiller and how much reserve you could build up before the coolant will be higher again than ambient temp, all will also depend on supplementing systems like the alky.
The ideal system would be to have also an intercooler radiator but with the flow controlled via valves. So the flow thru the radiator should only be opened when the intercooler coolant temp is 15 Celsius above ambient temp, and close when 5 Celsius or lower. The advantage here is that 1) Safety mechanism when the killer chiller is not working for whatever reason, 2) Once the killer chiller isn’t able anymore to cool (after a long run), the radiator can help again.
Is there anyone that can make a circuit that can switch at Delta Temp +15 and switch back at delta temp +5 (settable temp settings would be ideal, this is just an example).
Then only a valve is needed that in default state is always set for the +15 (so with Radiator setting).
#50
I'd guess any DIY-type or college grad electronic student could develop one. But there are probably hobbyist kits etc already, if not fully-built units. In England I'd look at Maplin and the like as a start.
It's not many chips to put a PIC with CAN and a temperature sensor plus relay driver, so you could set/read it via CAN and/or have it read IAT2.
Valves, water, etc have biggish time lags so you'd want to command the valve as much in advance as you could.
#52
#53
It would be great if someone could help in making a switch like this. Here is a design spec (for what it is worth):
- Input
o 1 outside air temp sensor (a ground and signal wire)
o 1 intercooler coolant temp sensor (a ground and signal wire)
o - 12 Volt (Input)
o +12 volt (Input)
- Output (low amp, better to have this feeding a relay)
o - 12Volt (Output)
o +12 volt (Output)
- Adjustable settings:
o Pot meter for going ON, so +12 volt output
Based on Intercooler coolant +15 degrees warmer then the Outside temp, (the 15 degrees should be adjustable)
o Pot meter for going OFF (after it has turned on)
Based on Outside temp +5 degrees warmer then the Intercooler coolant temp, (the 5 degrees should be adjustable)
No CAN connection is needed, as that would also make it more expensive. I assume now 12 volts, but it might be better to use 5 volts as most temp sensors work on 5v.
Update:
I may have found someone that could make this device. The beauty of this device is that it can be used for many more setups:
1) For the chiller killer to control valves that can seperate the intercooler radiator during periods the KC can cool down better.
2) Control separate intercooler fans
3) Control the stock engine fans so that it will cool not only the engine coolant but also the intercooler coolant (especially if you have a colder thermostat). My personal interest is in the last option
If anyone is interested please pm me.
- Input
o 1 outside air temp sensor (a ground and signal wire)
o 1 intercooler coolant temp sensor (a ground and signal wire)
o - 12 Volt (Input)
o +12 volt (Input)
- Output (low amp, better to have this feeding a relay)
o - 12Volt (Output)
o +12 volt (Output)
- Adjustable settings:
o Pot meter for going ON, so +12 volt output
Based on Intercooler coolant +15 degrees warmer then the Outside temp, (the 15 degrees should be adjustable)
o Pot meter for going OFF (after it has turned on)
Based on Outside temp +5 degrees warmer then the Intercooler coolant temp, (the 5 degrees should be adjustable)
No CAN connection is needed, as that would also make it more expensive. I assume now 12 volts, but it might be better to use 5 volts as most temp sensors work on 5v.
Update:
I may have found someone that could make this device. The beauty of this device is that it can be used for many more setups:
1) For the chiller killer to control valves that can seperate the intercooler radiator during periods the KC can cool down better.
2) Control separate intercooler fans
3) Control the stock engine fans so that it will cool not only the engine coolant but also the intercooler coolant (especially if you have a colder thermostat). My personal interest is in the last option
If anyone is interested please pm me.
Last edited by avos; 06-30-2010 at 12:32 AM. Reason: Typo & update
#54
#55
#56
#57
#58
#59
#60
Ok, we are ready with the unit, here it is:
http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0589
Glad that something existed already, so I have ordered one, and will play with it to see what is possible.
http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0589
Glad that something existed already, so I have ordered one, and will play with it to see what is possible.