Serpentine Belt Change
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Anybody tackled this on the 3.0 V6 Duratech engine yet? Looks to be a bear to get to, especially if you have huge hands like me. The air filter housing and most of its hoses look like they'll have to come off in order to allow full access to the belt and the various assortment of pulleys. Also, where is the belt loosening and tightening done? I'm accustomed to the alternator or perhaps an idler assembly being the pivot point, but I can't quite tell yet on this car.
If you've successfully changed the serpentine belt on this engine, any tips would be very much appreciated. Some of us with 2004 and 2005 S-Types may be looking at a belt change coming up in the near future and advice from those who've done it already would be a real time and knuckle saver....
Haven't looked at the JTIS CD for this yet. I will, but I doubt if it's on there....
If you've successfully changed the serpentine belt on this engine, any tips would be very much appreciated. Some of us with 2004 and 2005 S-Types may be looking at a belt change coming up in the near future and advice from those who've done it already would be a real time and knuckle saver....
Haven't looked at the JTIS CD for this yet. I will, but I doubt if it's on there....
Last edited by Jon89; 09-12-2009 at 09:06 AM.
#2
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
remove battery grd
remove air deflector
rotate belt tensioner counter-clockwise using a 3/8 inch square bar (rachet)
remove belt
Jag belt part # AJ89034 $71.75 (like I'll pay that)
less than a 15 minute job
NAPA part # ATM 6PK2275 $32.59 (thats the ticket)
remove air deflector
rotate belt tensioner counter-clockwise using a 3/8 inch square bar (rachet)
remove belt
Jag belt part # AJ89034 $71.75 (like I'll pay that)
less than a 15 minute job
NAPA part # ATM 6PK2275 $32.59 (thats the ticket)
Last edited by joycesjag; 09-12-2009 at 10:30 AM.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just another note... Sears has a belt tool that is really good. It's a bar with various adapters. If you think working on the Jag looks bad.... Try this procedure on the Caravan. I had to change the EGR valve....
so..
Remove EGR pipe
Remove harness connector
Then you would think that all you did was remove the two bolts and off it came.... NOPE
Remove belt (that means remove inner wheel well cover to get to the tensioner) and the tensioner is only an inch from the metal inner wheel well. No breaker bar or socket would fit.
Remove the alternator... and it goes on and on...
So, when it is said that Jags are a PIA to work on....
Oh, and here is the tool from Sears.
so..
Remove EGR pipe
Remove harness connector
Then you would think that all you did was remove the two bolts and off it came.... NOPE
Remove belt (that means remove inner wheel well cover to get to the tensioner) and the tensioner is only an inch from the metal inner wheel well. No breaker bar or socket would fit.
Remove the alternator... and it goes on and on...
So, when it is said that Jags are a PIA to work on....
Oh, and here is the tool from Sears.
#5
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Jon,
In JTIS it's listed as an accessory drive belt. The easiest way to find the procedure is to do a global search on accessory drive belt. You will then get a pick list. Look for accesory drive belt 2.5L/3.0L. Based on the picture you need to go in from the bottom.
Good luck, you'll need it.
Mike
In JTIS it's listed as an accessory drive belt. The easiest way to find the procedure is to do a global search on accessory drive belt. You will then get a pick list. Look for accesory drive belt 2.5L/3.0L. Based on the picture you need to go in from the bottom.
Good luck, you'll need it.
Mike
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Mike,
With less than 33,000 miles on the car right now, I'm nowhere near ready to change the belt yet. I'm just doing some preliminary research on the procedure for when I decide to do it, hopefully still a couple of years away at perhaps 60,000 miles or so. While checking the fluids under the hood this morning I decided to take a good look at how one would best go about accessing the belt to change it. Regardless of what JTIS may state, to me it looks like you are far better off changing the belt from above, not below....
With less than 33,000 miles on the car right now, I'm nowhere near ready to change the belt yet. I'm just doing some preliminary research on the procedure for when I decide to do it, hopefully still a couple of years away at perhaps 60,000 miles or so. While checking the fluids under the hood this morning I decided to take a good look at how one would best go about accessing the belt to change it. Regardless of what JTIS may state, to me it looks like you are far better off changing the belt from above, not below....
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Jon,
The JTIS is geared for technicians and as such, they leave out a lot of stuff and assume you have nice things like a lift. Unfortunately for us, we just have a garage or driveway. If you go in from the top you will have to remove at a minimum, the air cleaner assembly. Also, you may have to remove one of the radiator hoses as well. Removing the air cleaner assembly is fairly easy though. I did it today when I cleaned up the MAF sensor, throttle body and replaced the air filter. Also did some minor clean up. Saved about $160 which is what the dealer wanted to charge me.
Mike
The JTIS is geared for technicians and as such, they leave out a lot of stuff and assume you have nice things like a lift. Unfortunately for us, we just have a garage or driveway. If you go in from the top you will have to remove at a minimum, the air cleaner assembly. Also, you may have to remove one of the radiator hoses as well. Removing the air cleaner assembly is fairly easy though. I did it today when I cleaned up the MAF sensor, throttle body and replaced the air filter. Also did some minor clean up. Saved about $160 which is what the dealer wanted to charge me.
Mike
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jon, I go through alldatadiy and the diagrams (all 2 of them) show the replacement of the accessory drive belt from the top working down. It appears that the tensioner is located mid engine drivers side. I cannot confirm location as joycesjag is at Charlotte Douglas airport for a few more days.
No, I have not replaced her belt as we are only approaching 48,000 miles. When I replaced the upper end gaskets (monthes ago) the serpentine (accessory drive belt) was in like new condition when inspected.
I will visually confirm alldatadiy locale on Weds. though.
PS Mike, I to cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body (monthes ago) and Jon pointed out in a previous post that according to Jaguar "we" should not do that (according to the tech) Jon spoke with there is a "special coating" that can be compromised. I used CRC throttle body cleaner btw. But Joyces Jag still runs (crossing fingies)!
No, I have not replaced her belt as we are only approaching 48,000 miles. When I replaced the upper end gaskets (monthes ago) the serpentine (accessory drive belt) was in like new condition when inspected.
I will visually confirm alldatadiy locale on Weds. though.
PS Mike, I to cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body (monthes ago) and Jon pointed out in a previous post that according to Jaguar "we" should not do that (according to the tech) Jon spoke with there is a "special coating" that can be compromised. I used CRC throttle body cleaner btw. But Joyces Jag still runs (crossing fingies)!
Last edited by joycesjag; 09-12-2009 at 10:16 PM.
#10
#11
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't think that you can arbitrarily assume that your belt will last 100,000 miles, especially in states like ours where all cars must go through an annual inspection. If you have any surface cracks, the inspection stations will fail your belts in a heartbeat. And not all factory belts are created equal - sometimes the replacement belts are better quality....
Rick, if you spot that belt tensioner on Joycesjag when she returns later in the week, please post up its exact location. I'll do the same if I can spot it - I'm going to take a more serious stab at locating it today....
As far as Jaguar's warning against DIY guys like us cleaning our own throttle bodies, I have to wonder if it is just more "go to your dealer" propaganda. The throttle body is a pretty harsh environment when the engine is running and I would think that any special coating applied to the throttle plate would have to be very robust in order to remain intact for the lifespan of the unit. I haven't cleaned our new throttle body yet since it was just replaced in mid-May as a result of my wife's "limp home mode" incident. But at some point I'm sure that I will. Before I do, I'll consult with both of you (Rick and Mike) since those who have gone before always have the best knowledge and tips to make the job easier and more effective....
Rick, if you spot that belt tensioner on Joycesjag when she returns later in the week, please post up its exact location. I'll do the same if I can spot it - I'm going to take a more serious stab at locating it today....
As far as Jaguar's warning against DIY guys like us cleaning our own throttle bodies, I have to wonder if it is just more "go to your dealer" propaganda. The throttle body is a pretty harsh environment when the engine is running and I would think that any special coating applied to the throttle plate would have to be very robust in order to remain intact for the lifespan of the unit. I haven't cleaned our new throttle body yet since it was just replaced in mid-May as a result of my wife's "limp home mode" incident. But at some point I'm sure that I will. Before I do, I'll consult with both of you (Rick and Mike) since those who have gone before always have the best knowledge and tips to make the job easier and more effective....
#12
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Rick is correct - I just spotted the belt tensioner at the mid-engine drivers side location that he mentioned, but it is way down low. I needed my flashlight to confirm it, even with the car sitting outside in broad daylight....
I've changed many belts over the decades, some easy and some difficult. This one, however, is going to be a major hassle. Due to the difficulty I have with getting my huge hands into tight spots and then not having enough room to use them, when I tackle this belt I'll ask my tiny-handed tool-and-die neighbor friend to assist. I can hold the belt in place while he threads it through the small access openings....
I've changed many belts over the decades, some easy and some difficult. This one, however, is going to be a major hassle. Due to the difficulty I have with getting my huge hands into tight spots and then not having enough room to use them, when I tackle this belt I'll ask my tiny-handed tool-and-die neighbor friend to assist. I can hold the belt in place while he threads it through the small access openings....
Last edited by Jon89; 09-13-2009 at 08:56 AM.
#13
#14
#17
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just changed my serpentine belt while I was changing all my coils. The trick is to remove the air fliter box and all it's plumbing so you can see what you're doing. Once you do that you'll realize it isn't any harder than most other brands. However, it's a long belt and it wraps around a lot of stuff and changes directions a lot!! lol.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Guy-Pierre Boucher
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
7
09-16-2015 05:55 PM
Gerard Radimaker
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
8
09-13-2015 10:33 AM
dragonfly777
Regional
0
09-08-2015 01:39 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)