Service Tips for the Newbies Here....
#21
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Glasgow, Scotland UK
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#22
LOL. I actually sold my A8 Audi and my Mercury Marauder to get my STR. I was getting tired of working on 2 cars all the time so I figured I'd narrow it down to one. I did really like my A8 though. Maybe in the future after I'm done with college I'll get another Audi. Hopefully they bring that new RS6 over.
#25
If you have a 03+ its the same as this. This is for an XK but has the same ZF6HP26 thats in the 03+ S types. Hope that helps you out.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...deo-faq-50868/
Thanks for Reverend Sam for this.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...deo-faq-50868/
Thanks for Reverend Sam for this.
#27
Hi - I have an S type 3.0 2008 and would greatly appreciate any advice on servicing through a dealer or independant workshop (please guide me if there exists a topic already on this). One of my friend told me to go to a reputable indpendant service workshop (e.g. BP) as it would be much cheaper (around $100) with similar service quality as compared to servicing by dealer (previous owner paid $800 for 64,000kms or 48 months service around six months back).
Some data is:
Current kms = 52,500
When I bought 6 months back = 45,500
Previous owner did dealer services at 9,000; 22,000; 37,000; and just before selling at 45,300 kms
Just after I bought the car, I changed all four tyres from Goodyear; and renewed all four brakes discs and pads from dealer. At that time the dealer showed me from last service history that "Suspension, Front rh upper arm bush cracked, front lateral artm and front lower bushing cracked - PNA" and that to fix this two bush-wishbones and arm wishbones would be replaced with total cost of 4,000USD. However he said its not safety related and I can fix them later.
The service manual suggests servicing each year or at 10,000 km but recommends 6 monthly for too hot or dusty (I live in Dubai) conditions.
I am a very very untechnical person so would appreciate any advice as to where and when to take my car for servicing. Does servicing from dealer only means expensive oil change, or is it really worth for untechnical guys like me. Many thanks
Some data is:
Current kms = 52,500
When I bought 6 months back = 45,500
Previous owner did dealer services at 9,000; 22,000; 37,000; and just before selling at 45,300 kms
Just after I bought the car, I changed all four tyres from Goodyear; and renewed all four brakes discs and pads from dealer. At that time the dealer showed me from last service history that "Suspension, Front rh upper arm bush cracked, front lateral artm and front lower bushing cracked - PNA" and that to fix this two bush-wishbones and arm wishbones would be replaced with total cost of 4,000USD. However he said its not safety related and I can fix them later.
The service manual suggests servicing each year or at 10,000 km but recommends 6 monthly for too hot or dusty (I live in Dubai) conditions.
I am a very very untechnical person so would appreciate any advice as to where and when to take my car for servicing. Does servicing from dealer only means expensive oil change, or is it really worth for untechnical guys like me. Many thanks
#28
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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I'll take a stab at it- routine tasks required on any car like oil, filter and tire changes can usually be handled by a local garage that has a good reputation for competency. Going to a dealer is not a guaranty of competency unfortunately.
More complicated jobs that require special knowlege or tools are frequently best left to the main dealers. If your local garage has not done a specific job before, you may be funding their education.
More complicated jobs that require special knowlege or tools are frequently best left to the main dealers. If your local garage has not done a specific job before, you may be funding their education.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (02-17-2015)
#29
I'll take a stab at it- routine tasks required on any car like oil, filter and tire changes can usually be handled by a local garage that has a good reputation for competency. Going to a dealer is not a guaranty of competency unfortunately.
More complicated jobs that require special knowlege or tools are frequently best left to the main dealers. If your local garage has not done a specific job before, you may be funding their education.
More complicated jobs that require special knowlege or tools are frequently best left to the main dealers. If your local garage has not done a specific job before, you may be funding their education.
Many thanks for the quick help - really useful indeed, I was quite confused before, but you summed it up very well for me.
#30
#31
Videos are a very effective way of passing on "how to" info in a clear & unambiguous way.
This does involve a bit of planning & care & possibly is only for the talented, since poorly done they are useless.
There does seem to be a need to show how to safely lift & support these cars & IMHO considering the safety angle this is crying out for a video.
I own a low clearance vehicle (not a Jag) & regularly use two wheeled hydraulic jacks which have a collapsed height of 135 mm.
I can jack (using two jacks) the rear, & support the car on two axle stands; then (with the two jacks) jack the front, (all done evenly although there is only just sufficient clearance to activate the jack lever at first).
This means the only risk is that a jack could fail whilst supporting about one quarter of the vehicle weight. To counter this risk I usually slide under a hollow concrete block with some scrap 50mm timber to spread the load & avoid shattering the block.
Even then it's strongly advised that heavy torque loads are applied only with the utmost care.
BTW the jacks I use I have owned for over 10 years, they are low cost Chinese no-name brand & are still available. I occasionally test for creep, due to leakage across the seals, by supporting the end of the car overnight, if the height does not change all is well. Catastrophic (sudden unexpected) seal failure, in hydraulic jacks under normal use, & well below their max capacity is almost unheard of.
This method will allow all 4 wheels to be raised off the ground, although I prefer if possible, to just have either front or back wheels just touching to lend stability.
This does involve a bit of planning & care & possibly is only for the talented, since poorly done they are useless.
There does seem to be a need to show how to safely lift & support these cars & IMHO considering the safety angle this is crying out for a video.
I own a low clearance vehicle (not a Jag) & regularly use two wheeled hydraulic jacks which have a collapsed height of 135 mm.
I can jack (using two jacks) the rear, & support the car on two axle stands; then (with the two jacks) jack the front, (all done evenly although there is only just sufficient clearance to activate the jack lever at first).
This means the only risk is that a jack could fail whilst supporting about one quarter of the vehicle weight. To counter this risk I usually slide under a hollow concrete block with some scrap 50mm timber to spread the load & avoid shattering the block.
Even then it's strongly advised that heavy torque loads are applied only with the utmost care.
BTW the jacks I use I have owned for over 10 years, they are low cost Chinese no-name brand & are still available. I occasionally test for creep, due to leakage across the seals, by supporting the end of the car overnight, if the height does not change all is well. Catastrophic (sudden unexpected) seal failure, in hydraulic jacks under normal use, & well below their max capacity is almost unheard of.
This method will allow all 4 wheels to be raised off the ground, although I prefer if possible, to just have either front or back wheels just touching to lend stability.
#32
Your question is common - grab a cold beverage, get comfortable, and use the Search function on this forum and you will find an immense amount of info on this type of question. To sum it up: It's no better or worse than any other 8 year old European sedan as far as maintenance. These are good cars IMHO.
Jon - thanks for this thread, great idea and it has already added value to the forum from both you and others posting info.
I did an oil change last night on my STR and your thread was a timely reminder to check those pesky 2 nuts for the shifter linkage. I approached them from the front of the car, slid an 8mm open end wrench and got both to tighten perhaps 1/8 of a turn or so. Not loose, but not 100% tight either. Thanks for the reminder! Even with just 38,500 miles on it they had backed off a tad.
Everything else looks great under my car, although getting some uneven tire wear again on the right front inner surface. Time for an alignment check. Thankfully I have 2 extra front tires waiting around to go on. ]
I'm always surprised at how much oil comes out of this thing. 7.2 quart capacity is just a lot of oil!
#33
Chris,
Glad to hear that you checked your two ZF cable linkage bolts. They do have a tendency to back off. Anytime I'm under our S-Type (and now our XK8 as well), I take my 8mm box wrench with me and snug those bolts up. Takes all of 30 seconds once you're under there, so you might as well make it a habit....
Glad to hear that you checked your two ZF cable linkage bolts. They do have a tendency to back off. Anytime I'm under our S-Type (and now our XK8 as well), I take my 8mm box wrench with me and snug those bolts up. Takes all of 30 seconds once you're under there, so you might as well make it a habit....
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The Chris X (08-01-2012)
#34
Replacing the air filter on a 2003 S-type 4.2 liter V-8
I can't get the cover off the air cleaner box to replace the air cleaner on a 2003 S-Type 4.2L V-8. I can undo the clips on the outboard end but I can't lift it off to gain access to the air cleaner. I don't want to break something.
Can you tell me how to remove this cover?
Thanks,
Frank Daniels
Can you tell me how to remove this cover?
Thanks,
Frank Daniels
#35
The absolute best way is to remove the entire air box assembly from its engine bay mount, then open the lid. If I remember correctly, just one bolt holds the box in place. Folks have learned from experience that if you don't do it this way and attempt to force the lid open without removing the entire air box assembly, you're likely to crack the plastic box and cause your engine to throw air box-related codes....
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#36
Join Date: Oct 2007
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danielfv1939 (05-11-2013)
#37
The absolute best way is to remove the entire air box assembly from its engine bay mount, then open the lid. If I remember correctly, just one bolt holds the box in place. Folks have learned from experience that if you don't do it this way and attempt to force the lid open without removing the entire air box assembly, you're likely to crack the plastic box and cause your engine to throw air box-related codes....
I've done the mod on two so far and it works perfectly.
Here it is...
I know it says "S Type R"... but it works on all of them...
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#38
Thanks to all that responded to my request for directions. I'm glad I didn't force it. I wonder why Jaguar engineering decided to put tabs with a shoulder on them to hold this in place. It seems to me the shoulders are not needed since there's two snaps on the outboard side.
Again, thanks to all.
Frank
Again, thanks to all.
Frank
#39
Hey guys firstly to the OP great advice on standard things to check. I did have a question though I see alot of mention of a belly pan / cover under the vehicle that has to be removed when changing oil. Is this belly pan on all s-type vehicles and all years?
I have a 2001 s-type 3.0 v6, and when purchased did not come with a belly pan installed, am I missing one?
I have a 2001 s-type 3.0 v6, and when purchased did not come with a belly pan installed, am I missing one?
#40