Sleep Mode
#1
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I (obviously) did a search and looked thru the manual for sleep mode, but couldn't find what I want.
Our car is parked in the garage and just for the heck-of-it, I got my wife's keys from the hutch where she keeps it. It's about 25-30 feet away. I did lock and unlock the car from there, so apparently, the car may never go to sleep.
How far away does the key need to be to let it sleep? I do want to keep the keys in the house.
Will a bit of aluminum foil work as a barrier between the keys and the car?
I know I shoud try to solve this problem by experimenting, but I just need something on which to start.
Our car is parked in the garage and just for the heck-of-it, I got my wife's keys from the hutch where she keeps it. It's about 25-30 feet away. I did lock and unlock the car from there, so apparently, the car may never go to sleep.
How far away does the key need to be to let it sleep? I do want to keep the keys in the house.
Will a bit of aluminum foil work as a barrier between the keys and the car?
I know I shoud try to solve this problem by experimenting, but I just need something on which to start.
#3
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He means the modules, which shut down gradually over about a 40-min time of inactivity. Not called sleep mode by Jaguar, at least I think not.
It's irrelevant where the keys are unless you press a button (or one's faulty, I suppose). The car is listening but that doesn't affect the shut down unless a fob button is pressed. The fob only transmits when a button is pressed. No trans, not even low power, unless one is.
I think the car shuts off the receiver (antenna+amp) after a week or two to conserve power, and you'd then have to use the key in the lock (just the once, then it's all reactivated). Many cars do this and the first time you find out is in panic at the airport car park on return from hols, jet-lagged. How do I know? Yep. (Wasn't the jag.)
It's irrelevant where the keys are unless you press a button (or one's faulty, I suppose). The car is listening but that doesn't affect the shut down unless a fob button is pressed. The fob only transmits when a button is pressed. No trans, not even low power, unless one is.
I think the car shuts off the receiver (antenna+amp) after a week or two to conserve power, and you'd then have to use the key in the lock (just the once, then it's all reactivated). Many cars do this and the first time you find out is in panic at the airport car park on return from hols, jet-lagged. How do I know? Yep. (Wasn't the jag.)
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Jayt2 (01-18-2012)
#4
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JagV8, correct, I was thinking about the modules shutting down. I stated sleep mode since I saw it in this forum a few times.
I was just wondering if the proximity of the fob to the car had anything to do with the shut down, since I could open and close the doors from 40+ feet away. But if a button is not pressed, then there should be no worries.
Again, thank you.
I was just wondering if the proximity of the fob to the car had anything to do with the shut down, since I could open and close the doors from 40+ feet away. But if a button is not pressed, then there should be no worries.
Again, thank you.
#5
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I've noticed this about a half dozen times before. Just today went out to the garage, and the car lights flashed on then off, it had been sitting overnight, so it should have gone to sleep mode within 40-50 mins. Is this a sign the car is waking up periodically, and could be the cause of a draining battery? Weeks ago this happened, after sitting several hours, and someone else saw it and told me. You just have to be there for that 1 second it happens. Any clue as to what may be causing this?
#7
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#10
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Thanks
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (02-07-2015)
#13
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The battery is about 15 mos. old. The ABS and DSC light were there when I bought the car a month ago. I'll see what this Wednesday brings, when I take it in to the Indy shop. The battery is being drained from what I believe is the 4 System Switched relays in the boot, which are staying warm and possibly drawing current for what ever reason. Battery checked ok, but still may need to be replaced.
Last edited by dcjag64; 02-08-2015 at 09:07 AM.
#14
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Update: Car still at shop now 2 + weeks. The mechanic replaced wiring harness connection module on the GEM, he did this via this tech bulletin http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...nt%20Drain.pdf The draw is intermittent, as the cars lights will flash on then off every couple of hours, causing the car to wake for yet another 45 mins. He also stated that no draw was on battery when car is asleep. More troubleshooting occurring this afternoon. Any ideas of what could be causing the draw?
#15
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Your car is very very different (a major redesign) to that era and I never heard of that applying to any car after the major redesign which came in with 2002.5MY here / 2003 USA. All 4.2 engined cars are of this redesign kind.
I wouldn't rule it out but you appear to be the only person with a redesign car who's apparently affected.
I would instead go for a fault in the harness that is behind the front bumper / up high in the wheel wells (we say arches). That harness has bugged quite a number of the redesign cars.
I hope all even vaguely suspect relays etc have been swapped.
I wouldn't rule it out but you appear to be the only person with a redesign car who's apparently affected.
I would instead go for a fault in the harness that is behind the front bumper / up high in the wheel wells (we say arches). That harness has bugged quite a number of the redesign cars.
I hope all even vaguely suspect relays etc have been swapped.
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Update: After replacing the wiring harness connection module on the GEM early last week, Friday, he fully charged the battery and then he reset both GEM and REM, and left the car for over 2 days with alarm set. This morning received a call, saying that the car started like a champ this morning, even left out in the cold. I asked if he measured the voltage, and he did not. But I do know if the car sat for more than 12-15 hrs, there would be less than 12v, and if left for more than 18-20 hrs it would not have started at all. While I feel good that the car started, and I'm not sure of the reset CM process, could the drain reoccur, or did this fix the issue? Anyway, the shop is now investigating another issue, performing a smoke test for the infamous p171 and p174 lean codes. I'll post back on that in the appropriate thread(s).