Snapped bonnet (hood) cable
#1
Snapped bonnet (hood) cable
Hi All
Tried to open the bonnet today and noticed that the lever was hanging loose, cable obviously broken at the latch end and bonnet firmly closed merdre. did a search online which only made me more depressed as the primary cable break is the most difficult to release the bonnet.
From information on the search I needed to remove the front undertray which I knew the fixings were seized, out came the grinder to remove the torque head bolts which is drastic but better than trying to drill out same,
a least the self tappers and washers that I will replacewill them with will not seize. finally got the undertray off and the inner tray under the radiator and there were the latches, released the N/S one OK, but as it is well recorded the O/S is protected with a anti tamper steel box, tried bending it out of the way but access is poor, however I noticed it may be possible to remove the two torque head bolts securing the cover first one was easy if slow quarter turn at a time, the second I could not get good purchase with the torque key or a small ratchet so I tried a pair of "eagle beaks " (gland pliers) it was slow but a success. time spent around four hours due to coroded bolts
Now I need a replacement primary release cable which looks like a fair job as more trim has to be removed to get to the bulkhead. It will be a suck it and see as to the route it takes, maybe the wheel arch has to come off as well.
If anyone has had to replace the primary bonnet relaease cable I would like to hear what is required and any short cuts. I will follow up with the finished job with some images.
Tried to open the bonnet today and noticed that the lever was hanging loose, cable obviously broken at the latch end and bonnet firmly closed merdre. did a search online which only made me more depressed as the primary cable break is the most difficult to release the bonnet.
From information on the search I needed to remove the front undertray which I knew the fixings were seized, out came the grinder to remove the torque head bolts which is drastic but better than trying to drill out same,
a least the self tappers and washers that I will replacewill them with will not seize. finally got the undertray off and the inner tray under the radiator and there were the latches, released the N/S one OK, but as it is well recorded the O/S is protected with a anti tamper steel box, tried bending it out of the way but access is poor, however I noticed it may be possible to remove the two torque head bolts securing the cover first one was easy if slow quarter turn at a time, the second I could not get good purchase with the torque key or a small ratchet so I tried a pair of "eagle beaks " (gland pliers) it was slow but a success. time spent around four hours due to coroded bolts
Now I need a replacement primary release cable which looks like a fair job as more trim has to be removed to get to the bulkhead. It will be a suck it and see as to the route it takes, maybe the wheel arch has to come off as well.
If anyone has had to replace the primary bonnet relaease cable I would like to hear what is required and any short cuts. I will follow up with the finished job with some images.
#2
I don't know if this will help you but in my 00MY S Type - I have 2 latches - the main release cable to the driver's side latch was good but the cable connecting the 2 latches snapped off right at the driver's side latch.
After hours of fiddling around (in the dark) and taking the lower valiance panel off and realizing there was NO way I'm getting to the latch - I took a wire hanger, bent it at 90 degrees - went through the front grille and latched onto the exposed cable (right at the passenger side latch) and tugged to release the other hood latch.
Possibly you have 2 hood latches and the cable connecting both latches is shot. I will tell you it's very hard to tell until you get the hood open and even with the small extension cable broken - the hood release lever was hanging loose.
After hours of fiddling around (in the dark) and taking the lower valiance panel off and realizing there was NO way I'm getting to the latch - I took a wire hanger, bent it at 90 degrees - went through the front grille and latched onto the exposed cable (right at the passenger side latch) and tugged to release the other hood latch.
Possibly you have 2 hood latches and the cable connecting both latches is shot. I will tell you it's very hard to tell until you get the hood open and even with the small extension cable broken - the hood release lever was hanging loose.
#3
Solution Found to opening the hood with on S Type R with broken latch cable
Hey guys,
Came across an amazing video that offers a fix for opening the hood with a broken hood/bonnet cable on an S Type R.
Dealer wanted 450, did it in about 5 minutes following the instructions.
Only lift the grill to a minimal opening for the forearm to fit as I heard mine almost crack.
Guy on the video used his hand but it's smarter to use a wrench to push the locking latch to unlock. Just follow the length of the spring and you should be good to go. Look at the attached photo where the paracord is wrapped, that's the pressure point.
Replacement cable is a couple of hundred (dealer only, not available after market) Local mechanic did the install for 300 cash.
Since you will likely need to drive it to the mechanic, unless you are getting in towed, there is a real simple somewhat ghetto solution for a quick release using a piece of paracord so you don't have to unlatch from the grill lift method as per video once you get it opened.
Do not drive it unlatched on safety latch only.
Could have been a lot worse. Hope this helps.
Came across an amazing video that offers a fix for opening the hood with a broken hood/bonnet cable on an S Type R.
Only lift the grill to a minimal opening for the forearm to fit as I heard mine almost crack.
Guy on the video used his hand but it's smarter to use a wrench to push the locking latch to unlock. Just follow the length of the spring and you should be good to go. Look at the attached photo where the paracord is wrapped, that's the pressure point.
Replacement cable is a couple of hundred (dealer only, not available after market) Local mechanic did the install for 300 cash.
Since you will likely need to drive it to the mechanic, unless you are getting in towed, there is a real simple somewhat ghetto solution for a quick release using a piece of paracord so you don't have to unlatch from the grill lift method as per video once you get it opened.
Do not drive it unlatched on safety latch only.
Could have been a lot worse. Hope this helps.
#4
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herbertcustard
MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler
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06-19-2021 06:08 PM
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