Hi, I'm still new to my Jaguar and noticed it needed some immediate attention to one of the two oil control VVT solenoids and so I parked the vehicle and ordered one.

I noticed on the car that it was disconnected and expected an easy fix so waited even though the car seemed to drive fine. The day it showed up I had a later appointment and so was very disappointed when I received one for another vehicle.

I went to the car and decided I needed to go to this interview but didn't want to drive it if there was an error code so messed around with it and shorted something.

I'm getting the parking break fault, Gearbox fault and a few other codes and it won't turn over at all now.

I'm very frustrated and upset at my rash decision. Can someone offer guidance on rebuilding my ECM, where to find it and who to go to for a rebuild?

I'm not 100% done checking out the fuses and relays under the hood because of a new latch problem that happened while moving the airbox and cleaning.

When I get my solenoid I'll get under there and see if maybe I just popped something but I'm under the impression this will indeed fry something in the computer. Can anyone attest to that?

 

depending what you actually shorted . it may not be the ECM outputs that you fry'ed .
it would be worth checking every fuse , eng bay / boot/trunk and dash fuses too.
also do a hard reboot with the battery terminals .
by disconnecting the battery earth cable from the terminal . after a few seconds touch the body earth strap to the positive terminal for a few seconds .


if it is the ECM it should not be un-reparable . there are many places to repair them .

 

Well, that's good news Datsport and thanks for the reply.

I tried the reboot with the negative battery terminal and touched it to the positive once it was unhooked. That didn't work.

I'll get in the hood in the next few days and check that last place for fuses as well as the relays once I have a tool handy. They said they rent the relay testing tool from O'Rilley when I was there a few days ago. I found one for the fuses but all are good so far in the trunk and under glovebox.

I'm a little worried about this video I saw well in advance to messing with it.
Around the nine minute mark he gets into a warning about sending energy the wrong way and unplugging it to test it with independent power etc. He also says it will ruin the ECM or ECU and cost a repair. I'm not guessing he is wrong and tested that out for everyone.

Fortunately, as you mentioned it should be repairable and that video was 2012 before any advancements in programming, security ( leading to more lenient VIN programming), vehicle age with computers etc.

I guess I should pull it out and open it up. I've fixed a few electronics in the past and if it's visibly burnt maybe I can just find a local guy who works on computer boards to plug in a new resistor. Maybe head to Fry's Electronics for ideas.

 

It's extremely unlikely you damaged the PCM (aka ECM).

Stick to fixing the actual, known, fault(s).

 

Sorry, are you suggesting the faults showing or the broken system? Meaning the fuse or relay...

I've noticed that commentary a lot throughout the forum but in this case I think we have a straight connection to the computer and sent it a jolt. I think that because of the mechanic in the video and based off of his experience.

"the actual faults" or faux faults depending on what you believe may entail spending a bunch of money fixing a dozen systems that were fine before hand and consequently have a fault because of the ECM. Everything didn't suddenly become faulty IMO and the car ran fine..

As a new observer, with less car experience, I respect your opinion but in this case I think you're a bit off base suggesting to fix everything but the ECM. It doesn't even turn over and goes through a list of faults. After the hard reset I think even more came up and it lists pretty much everything so shouldn't be the newer battery due to the aforementioned not turning over part.

 

I think JagV8 means it’s so unlikely to be an ECM fault .
That you should take every other Avenue of diagnosis before removing the ECM,
land lets Face it once the ECM is removed,
you can no longer Use diagnostic equipment to triangulate the fault.
test the circuitry involved. And fuses first . Always blame the ECM last.
it’s the only economic way forward .

 

Oh, I see and thanks for the clarification. I didn't know that about the codes and will need to diagnose the issue. I ordered a new code reader from Amazon that arrived today but it wasn't powerful enough and showed no codes after the hard reset. Even though the faults all show. I assume one is related to the ECM and in a way validates the fact it may be faulty but I'm with you both on going after ever last avenue related to other systems before unplugging the computer. I'm under the impression a better Jaguar specific reader from the dealership would see more than my $20 unit that claims to be for every ODBII car after 1996...

Thank you both for taking the time to help a new member. It gives me confident to not have to go through this alone and slow down with the whole ECM first approach.

I may also get lucky plugging in the new solenoid and hard resetting and should be able to update soon.

 

It's not even a Jaguar. Doesn't use the same tough PCM.

Leave the PCM alone - it's the very last thing to worry about.

 

A couple of things to note.
A generic $20 code reader may be giving you false meanings to the codes.
you will need a Jaguar specific reader for correct meanings,
or you can compare your codes to Jaguar specific meanings.
that’s where a Jaguar specific code reader would be slightly better.
but as you say ultimately Jaguar SDD software would be best.
and may yet be required to get to the bottom of this.


it would also be best for you to quote your actual codes here.
so anyone who may have experience with the codes can Chime in .

hopefully it’s just a fuse,
my hunch is if you shorted a 12 V feed,It will be a fuse.
if you shorted a 5 V feed you may have damaged the ECM.
there is normally some safeguard.

if it turns out not to be a fuse or relay or connector.
You will need to check the C-codes . You will need at least an icarsoft i930 .
These codes are hidden from most cheap code readers.

 

I did more than touch the harness wires and it was plugged in reverse and so the power (12V?) or whatever was sent directly to the ECM grounding side of the solenoid.

I did find a reference to how its wired for another car and just to forewarn, these scammy Just Ask sites have one good answer and then rip everyone else off.
https://www.justanswer.com/nissan/ak...ntake-vvt.html

The guy mentions this leading to ECM damage and is very worried. I get all the error codes and sent a full load through the wrong end but we'll have to see if there's any failsafe between the solenoid and this ground switch that controls timing.

If someone has a better wiring diagram for the solenoid in a Jaguar or useful links on manuals, I could use them because I had a hard time figuring out how to not only find but download the ones I saw in the forum. J-CD1 didn't seem to produce anything I could open and there was a lot of digging through sticky threads searching for the S-Type R related material.

 

The whole workshop manual etc are on this site - see the Stickies - and mostly or all on JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

The more you look at and overthink other cars the more time you're wasting.

 

Anybody seen my 11 foot pole? I'm not sure my 10 footer is sufficient for this one.

First and foremost, in the kindest, gentlest manner possible, please step back from the ledge. No need to jump.

Wiring diagrams here, see figure 03.5 for the VVT solenoids, at the bottom left corner of the page:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...cal-2006on.pdf


So let's please review exactly what has happened. You said you connected one of those solenoids backwards? The solenoid is just a coil of fine wire, forming an electromagnet. If electrically connected backwards, this will have zero effect on the PCM. Zilch, nada, zip. The solenoid may not operate properly, but the PCM won't care which direction the electrons flowed through the coil of wire.

When did you notice the solenoid was connected improperly? Before you started the engine? If so, the solenoids are not powered with the ignition off.

Or did you notice after starting the engine? If so, the only thing I'd see happening is MAYBE the solenoid would not respond properly. And if the solenoid didn't respond properly, you might get a fault code for improper response, but no damage to the PCM.

Or did something else happen? Even if you managed to touch the two wires together, solenoid power is off with the ignition off.

How long has the car been sitting? I'm wondering if most of this trouble is related to a partially depleted battery.

How about the security system? If accidentally tripped, this prevents the engine from starting. Observe the PATS indicator light on the dash, at the base of the windshield. This is for the security system, which may have inhibited engine start as a precaution. Here is how it's supposed to behave if all is good:

First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every 3 seconds or so (not sure of the exact time) to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault.

 

Karl,
This is something that happened in 10 minutes after shutting off the vehicle with just the one P0082 error code for a solenoid that was visible and unplugged while the car would start up and run a little rough but run better than most for its age and idle very smoothly. I made an attempt with a hacked harness attached on the solenoid side by a previous owner and I hook up in reverse. I attempted to turn over the engine and had immediate dash lights and (no turning over) and so I went out and unhooked it all. I will check security but think you are right about a now faulty solenoid signal or one that can no longer handle the default timing and causing a full failure.

This is very hopeful to me.

I haven't been using the key fob due to not really being able to see which button I'm pushing and trying to keep things as untouched as possible while I diagnose the vehicle for the first time but I can do some testing and watch the light with that very useful info. I also think the keyfob tries to unlock all doors and will cycle while the key in door is more direct but I'm not sure and hope that doesn't alter the security scenario.

 

Oh, there's no need to type that out. It's just a given around here.

Been thinking about possible fault scenarios the PCM designers must have considered. Two wires in a harness can rub together, which could send power directly to where the PCM normally just supplies a ground. I don't think it's too far-fetched that the designers would anticipate this and build the PCM robust enough to safely handle it.

My hunch is you will find a blown fuse on the supply side of the VVT circuit. No time to look right now, but said fuse may also feed other circuits, which would account for the multiple faults that suddenly appeared.

 

Nicely done on account of your accuracy.

I popped the hood finally and check out the remaining fuses in the box. Nothing as of yet is faulty as far a fuses are concerned. Is it possible you're talking about a fuse on the "supply side of the VVT circuit" as in the wire and harness? I guess that doesn't make sense unless it's like an after market radio or something so will have to check relays.

The odd thing about the code was it was exactly the same as others have had with the power brake fault, gear box and one or two others but now it seems to be almost everything after the hard reset.

I'm trying not to run down the battery or would type them out and thus I will know more after the new solenoid and reset tomorrow. Maybe we can get it to accept the new one more favorably and see the faults go away.

With the key on, the security light stays on solid and will need to investigate that more. I get two beeps from the remote and the light just flashes once if at all usually. The remote doesn't ever do what I want.

It was something like "Gearbox Fault, DSC unavailable and Park Brake Fault"... I found a few threads I went over a few times and in my mind. Like this one: https://www.jaginfo.org/showthread.p...rk-Brake-Fault

The main difference being most had restricted performance issues and my system is not letting me turn over the engine at this point and now I get more errors like power steering?

Other than that I will rent the tool for testing relay and a friend helping has the battery trickle charger for an overnight bump or we can use jumpers for a boost? The battery is very new and should be in really good shape.

 

Ah, the plot thickens.

Here is the definitive thread covering those three faults you listed. An amazing thread, the author is obviously brilliant. Clearly a credit to society, yet refreshingly modest. Rumor has it he smells nice, too:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...attery-193787/

Note how often that combination of faults was caused by a low or tired battery. The 2003+ models are VERY sensitive to low prestart voltage.

So do yourself a YUGE favor and and get a charger on that poor battery. From Electrical Troubleshooting 101, always begin with a fully charged battery. A trickle charger won't cut it. You'll need a charger with at least a ten amp output.

For giggles, measure the battery voltage before charging. You need to see 12.6v before start, a VERY high standard. I suspect you will find much lower.

 

An over night trickle charger should work just as well... Faster isn't always better from what I've been told and there's a cut off. Like pouring a beer with head, I assume charging it quickly will get it there before the cells actually have time to bake in the current.

I'll hope whatever I did with the solenoid ate enough juice and now I'm under current.

 

Couple of thoughts:

1. a trickle charge won't necessarily recover a flattish battery - you need at least 1/10 the Ah in amps (say 10 amps), and of course a bad enough battery simply will never recover

2. if you can figure exactly which wires may have shorted to what, and better to include a few too many "maybes", the electrical guide should show them all - and generally the PCM can stand anything in the way of shorts or 12V

3. (ah, more than a couple!) if it won't turn over it's not the PCM causing it

 

I came online to buy a jump start/charger unit and saw your post. I figure it will come in handy for this vehicle eventually and it just seems kind of nice to have one for $50 these days (or may gift it to my friend helping with the trickle charge).

I know exactly what I did and so will look at the chart (haven't done this yet). I went under the hood and put the harness on in reverse. It's possible if you could see how exposed it was and the two wires coming out. I don't think they touched each other and were just plugged in wrong by mistake. I double checked by was interrupted halfway in just botched it.

Edit: That 2006 S-Type Electrical looks very specific and comprehensive. Very pleased with this new tool and looks like we're checking the EMS control relay before the rest after following diagram 1.7 from the power side of the solenoid.

 

I can't see how such a short could affect the PCM to stop the car turning over. Obviously it might take out a fuse which then might do so, though it sounds unlikely.

But... without being able to check the elec guide carefully it's not really possible to be sure.

Oh - make sure you have the guide for your car year, of course (though the changes in this area are not many - hmm, well, VVT for the STR was one).