PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!

I just got a 2000 jaguar s type 4.0 the guy I bought it from signed a 15 day power train warranty,I called him and text him he pretty much said take a hike! The very first night, it started to pull. and the transmission would not shift into gear the car has a gearbox fault light that came on and the car completely shut off. Well I started the car and the light went away. so the next day i had mechanics look at it and they ran a transmission scan ,and it said code P0734(gear 4 incorrect ratio)

so we deleted the light because it was not on anyways. It was just still in the system. The car would start to pull pretty hard from a dead stop and when i would start to accelerate it would pull. So today I was driving it for the first time since and it drove okay,then pulled really hard at a stop light. All of a sudden I lost all power it seemed.Their is no engine light or trans light on. The car does go into gear just wont move more than 5-10 feet which is really weird even in reverse it does the same thing. I can feel the motor turning but the transmission just wont engauge. Like i said it moves about 5 to 10 feet than looses all power and wont move ... is this a transmission issue or a computer electric issue. its weird how no gear work i tried 2nd,3rd,4th, drive and reverse they all do the same thing please someone help me and remember there is no lights on period.

PLEASE HELP

 

First things first - how old is the battery? Check the date code on the battery - you should also get the battery load tested. Quite possibly your issues could be battery related and it's the cheapest route as well.

Did you get your warranty in writing? If so, haul his a** into Small Claims Court - how much did you pay for the car? Dealer or private seller? if the latter your going up a river w/ no paddle. Good Luck!

 

not sure how old the battery is but, the car always starts right up and , i even unplugged the battery + side for a few minutes to see if it would reset anything. and yes I did get it in writing with his Identification card and everything. also have all the text messages where I tell him the car is broken since the first night I had it. I traded him a motor for a corvette,gto,trans am,camaro that was over $10k i really do like jaguars it sucks I have a lemon. he said he is rebuilding the motor so he said if I want the motor back I owe him $2k but the motor was fine I even had it looked at, at a shop right before the deal and its not my problem that he wanted to build the motor it was already fully built. The main reason i did the trade is because he told me he had a buyer and I was to sell it to him 2 days later but he needed the motor that day.. well the guy who was suppose to buy the car never called me back.It was like a set up. I hope its just the battery

 

I dont know if this matters but the car has a sound system , a subwoofer and amplifire hooked up which was already on the car , maybe this could have drained the batter since it connected directly. the battery in the car is in the trunk by the spare tire,and its huge.

 

I have a 2000 Jaguar also - aftermarket sound equipment is trouble and is a huge draw - just because the car starts right up doesn't mean the battery can sustain the electrical load the modules demand while running.

Trying to give you some sound advice - definitely get the battery load tested - you might be surprised with what you find out, especially knowing you have aftermarket audio equipment installed.

 

I agree with the battery scenario.

These "modern" cars, not just Jags, are "juice hungry", and then the added stereo stuff, possibly drawing 20+amps, leaves little for the numerous electickery bits, and they are voltage SENSITIVE.

A new DIN88 battery would be first best suggestion, and ensure it is "fully charged" and not just off the shelf. Buy yourself a decent charger, and do it yourself for 24 hours, and then there is NO guess work. Then whilst this thing is being trouble shot, disconnect that amp and stuff, get the car "back to basics", and diagnosis is sooooooo much easier.

I then move onto my favourite subject, "when was the last time the transmission fluid was changed". If the car is coming up on 100k miles and never had a fluid service, I think the trans is on its last legs, SORRY, it is not what you want to hear from down here, but fact is fact, these DUMB, "sealed" transmissions still require the fluid to be changed, albeit at extended periods when compared to the earlier "dipstick equipped" transmissions. Yours is a Ford 5R55N transmission, and not that expensive to rebuild, the later ZF 6HP26 is very expensive.

Sometimes a simple fluid drain and refill will revive these transmissions, I have had good success rates with this over the many years. It may require 4 or 5 of these drain and refills to get the fluid concentration back to a satisfactory level for things to work properly. Our S 3.0 (owned for 12 weeks) is on fluid drop #4 as of yesterday, and is now as sweet as i would expect.

 

Thanks alot guys, so much help now I feel a little more positive about the situation, i would think if the transmission was gone it wouldnt be all the gears. I highly doubt its the trans .Im sure its the battery =) ill check soon how much is this giant battery? in the USA

 

Avoid another business transaction the likes that had you gain this car. Test the battery prior to purchase of another.

 

Pep Boys carries the Bosch battery for this car - correct size, fitment and better CCA and Reserve than OEM, 3 year replacement - 8 year prorated warranty - the battery is around $100 (sometimes if you search online you can find a $10 or more coupon you can apply to the battery). I purchased mine for only $87 about a year ago - this battery rocks! Link is below:

Product Results Automotive Batteries | Pep Boys

Looks like they have a $20 mail in rebate now reducing your cost to about $95 after rebate.

 

The battery said it was good but needed charge but 60 %

 

So I just got a brand new batter , the battery was no good, but it was not the problem car is still doing the same thing now I am out 140 dollars ! Could it be the etm? Electronic throttle module?

 

anyone else please , I dont be to be annoying I am just without a daily driver and I need to fix this asap...any suggestions on update

 

OK, simpathetic to the daily driver situation, but you, nor the car has caused this issue, lack of maintenence has done it all.

How many miles on the thing, that will assist us all.

If the battery in it was deemed "no good" then you are NOT out any $$ in my opinion, it needed a battery, and no one guaranteed it would fix the issue, but was the best starting point.

I have re-read all the stuff you have said, and I reckon it is a trans fluid issue, and until we all know the mileage on it, and some indication of fluid service, or lack of, we are all going to continue guessing. I reckon the fluid will be grubby and black as night when you eventually do something about it. No matter what, it has to be done at least once, and if any metal bits are in the pan, and/or magnet, then trans "end of life" has been reached.

Take a deep breath, PLEASE, it is annoying, but getting panicky, angry with the car, previous dropkick, and clutching at straws will not sort anything.

 

could you send me a link on how to check the fluid , I looked for the dip stick I could not find it in the engine bay area . also the drain plus in under the transmission... I looked on craigslist I found 3 transmissions for 600-750 claim to be in great shape. Ill try the cheapest things first such as changing fluid . when i change the battery was i suppose to do anything special such as pump the gas peddle for reset or anything? thanks sorry if i seem crazy lol

 

OK, one thing at a time.

There is NO trans dipstick.

The fluid level is checked via the drain plug, which is in the bottom of the pan on the LH side. You will need a 22mm wrench, and a 5/16" hex key. No idea why an imperial key, it just is. There is a small plug up inside the large (22mm) drain plug. Get the car suitably supported, and holding the 22mm section, loosen the hex key plug, it will be tight, DO NOT remove it just yet. Have a pan under the thing as fluid MAY flow out. Lower the car somewhat (the book calls for it to level, yeh right), start the engine, run thru the gears (brakes on obviously), leave it running, reach under and remove that hex plug, and fluid may "dribble" out, that is deemed FULL. This MUST be done with a COLD engine, coz if the fluid is "highway hot" you will burn your hand/s, and it will be too expanded and give a dud reading.

If no fluid runs out it is low, and needs topping off.

If fluid runs out, observe the colour, it should be pinky/clear, NOT black. Black is rubbish fluid, and is no longer doing what it should, and is also allowing transmission component damage.

Topping up is simple enough, sort of. The filler plug is on the RH side, on the rear face of the main casing, adjacent to where the extension housing attaches, and it is a 10mm hex plug. Not easily visible, I do it by feel. i feed a plastic tube in and thread it outside the car, attach a funnel, tape it to the step ladder, and fill via the funnel. When the fluid runs out of the dribble hole (the hole in teh drain plug), fit that small hex plug, and add 1/2ltr more fluid. refit the fill plug.

This is done with the engine OFF.

I know there is a very technical way of doing all this, but that is the method I use on our S Type.

 

Nothing special when changing the battery. simply fit and run like any other car, radio code may be called for, some do, some dont.

Again, how many miles on this car, it may sound silly, but it does help us to help you, trust me.

If you are going to get a s/hand trans be careful, you could get burnt again.

 

OK- I'm confused

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...ndition-86179/

Are you fixing it or scrapping it?

 

Sounds like the OP is scrapping it - no mention of mileage or price paid whatsover... hmmm.....

 

Sorry I apologize ,I am just so upset about the car I was focused on the issue the car has 119k miles and what I gave him is in the a post at the top . I would like to fix it if it will be easy but if I cant figure it out or if it will cost to much, than part she goes which will suck but I need something to drive.I wasn't intentionally avoiding the question.

 

Look at the 3rd post