Getting ready to dig into r/r'ing the head gaskets...
What are the specialty tools needed? Thanks Guys
Any watch out for and hints are very welcomed.

 

V6 or V8? What year? Why the head gaskets?

 

2000 4.0 V8... The head gaskets are blown. Coolant in the oil and coolant puffing out of the exhaust.

 

I have to assume that overheating caused the gaskets to blow. I would look for a good used engine and not waste your time on trying to fix what you have. After overheating when you try to remove the head bolts there is a 50/50 chance that the threads will pull out of the engine block with the bolts. I've seen used engines going for as little as $1500 with warranty.

 

Real_Tech,

What about used 4.2 engines? They appear to have worked out some of the bugs in the 4.0, but I would guess rather more expensive.

Mike

 

Ha, Youre kidding right? A new engine because the head gaskets are leaking?
Will be carefull pulling the bolts though and take that 50/50 chance.
Is that what Jaguar suggests? Shelton Jag says 3 grand will fix it.
Of course its not hard to eat up 3 grand with high labor rates.
Why didnt they suggest a new engine?
Guess I will see what happens and if its the hard way... Hey Im use to it.
Also a used engine with a warranty? Most of the money is labor so if I buy a lemon engine Im warrantied on the engine but the labor?

 

No, I'm not kidding, just speaking from experience. just because the job is quoted at $3k doesn't mean it will go out the door at that price. 50/50 was being generous and giving the engine with the blown gaskets the benefit of the doubt, in actual practice I haven't seen A SINGLE V8 that's been overheated enough to blow the head gaskets make it back to life. Either something is already broke that can't be seen without teardown or the threads will pull out of the block. There is no being careful with the threads. The bolts have to come out to get the heads off right? I've seen techs after the first bolt pulled the threads try heating the bolts or block, penetrating oil etc. and then I've seen attempts at helicoils but the bolt holes need special extra long helicoils that are special order from helicoil and then you need a special order extra long tap as well. 2 I've seen helicoils tried on 1 didn't make it out of the building the second didn't make 1000 miles before the gaskets were blown again. These weren't backyard attempts they were Jaguar trained master techs with the $4000 worth of special tools required to do the job right. It's just a losing proposition and I'm just trying to save you money and aggravation. The labor to replace the complete engine should be half or less than the head gasket job and the used engine will have less miles than the gasketed overheated scored crankshaft engine in the car now.

The dealer you are using should shop at a different place for their used engines. Coventry west in Atlanta covers labor with their warranted used engines and they take them out properly without a bunch of cut wires and hoses. I qouted used for an '05 s-type today, engine from Coventry with 5k miles $3500, from another vendor(i'll post the name Monday, can't remember now) engine with 6k miles on it $3500, engine with 26k miles $2500, engine with 52k $2000 and all include 1 year warranty including labor coverage. What this means is that this car will leave the building with warranted engine and we'll use the midprice 26k motor as the engine and the final price will be about $4k and will probably run for another 100k miles at least where as the head gasket replacement job qouted at 3k will end up near 4k if it doesn't need an engine anyways and will still be the overheated shortblock it started with.

 

i 2nd real tech's statement

 

If you are dead set on replacing them you will have to pull the motor. I would suggest trying to remove the head bolts as the first step. If you are lucky enough not to rip the threads out of the block and also lucky enough not to snap the bolts, the rest is easy. I suggest removing the bolts first because the special tools come into play later so if the bolts can't be removed there is really no point to buy the tools. You will need a special damper holding tool and a larger breaker bar to remove the damper. Then you'll need to remove the timing chains and tensioners. You'll probably have to replace them since it is a 4.0L and they are probably the cheap plastic type. You'll need a special camshaft setting tool for installation. The heads are pretty "lightened" castings if you will, I wouldn't be surprised if they are warped beyond repair. If not, they should be resurfaced. The valves are so tiny, you'll probably find some of them will be broken. Also, you need a nm/inch pound torque wrench that goes down to atleast 10 nm. Other then that, it's a typical head gasket change. One other thing, you will need a water pump and thermostat. On the 4.0l the water pump impeller is plastic and tends to cause and overheating issue and the factory thermostat had an issue with sticking closed.

 

Heads are off no problems this far. I think the thermostat was the original problem... I will change the pump too. Is there an upgrade for the plastic timing chain and tensioner? I tend to hate plastic. Thanks for the info... Halfway there.

 

Yea, look on ebay, there are kits available. If you can't find them there try partstrain.com or call jaguarparts.com. I advise you to cal just to make sure they sell you the metal ones and not the plastic ones.

Also, if you want to rent the cam tool, there is a guy online that rents them out, you can save alot that way.

Also, I don't know your level of experience or anything but just a reminder, DO NOT reuse the head bolts, you will need new ones.

 

Not bad for the price of a pump. $63.00. Only the right side gasket is blown. The timing chains are all metal. The only thing plastic is what I guess is the tensioner. No signs thus far of overheating damage besides the gasket. Actually looks like I may be one of the lucky ones. Then again everytime it started to overheat I shut her down.
I havent had the head work done yet to see if theres damage. Fingers crossed. I think that the gaskets come with new head bolts but will double check.
Im definately replacing parts that I can with it torn into. Any other components to replace from past history of failures? Hopefully she will be back on the road the end of this week. So s-type owners I like this car because where I am at theres only like two and I like to be different than the 200 mustangs or 600 325i's out here. Should I hang onto it after its finnished? 78,000 miles and is in new car shape. I just dont want to be under the hood every other weekend. I get enough of that with the 68 chevelle. I have a 74 Jaguar but it has the Ford 351 in it. Neither reliable for daily drivers. Hoping this S-type will fill that position. Insights?

 

 

 

So the thermostat was the originating problem, water pump is fine but plastic and will r/r with the steel one. You have to love the price on new head bolts, Also have to love the torque specs. jeeesh. Everything checks ok... Now time to put it back together. Fun Stuff. I dont recommend personally just putting in a different engine.
When its said and done I know what I have and can rely on what I have by going through everything. Although my case is different than everyone elses. A fruit for thought though. If you have any overheating problem that is intermittent make sure you take care of it right away. For all these posts that said no heat coming from the heater... Thats how it started for me. Get it fixed and know its fixed right when it happens.

 

I feel your pain! Are you going to change the timing chain tensioners? I HIGHLY suggest you do. I had a picture of mine but don't know what I did with it. Anyways, the plastic tensioner cracked and I lost oil pressure and a timing chain! When they went to the new motor, they used the metal type. If you fix this, you will have fixed just about every problem the 4.0L has, other than the cylinder sleeves!

By the way, I have to ask you a favor, since you removed the timing cover, I wonder if you could help me with my problem! I need a pic or a description of the serpentine idler pulley that mounts on the passenger side, through the timing cover. Nobody seems to know the neccessary hardware and I am missing some parts so if you have it handy and don't mind helping out, I'd appreciate it!

Thanks! And good luck on your project!