Sportier Steering?
#1
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I first mentioned this as a mod I'd like to have in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...26/#post584215
There's a link to a company who does steering rack modifications in there.
So today I decided to try and find out why the Maserati's steering just felt so much better, double the original MSRP not withstanding.
I thought the Jag must have a much slower rack, higher ratio and more turns lock-to-lock.
So far it looks like the Maser's is 3 L-T-L and the Jag says 2.8!
But the Jag is variable ratio so maybe that's a part of it or none of it?
The Jag just feels slower and less responsive in that department and yeah the Maserati engine IS more fun but it eats more gas too!![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
So focusing on the steering any thoughts on this?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...26/#post584215
There's a link to a company who does steering rack modifications in there.
So today I decided to try and find out why the Maserati's steering just felt so much better, double the original MSRP not withstanding.
I thought the Jag must have a much slower rack, higher ratio and more turns lock-to-lock.
So far it looks like the Maser's is 3 L-T-L and the Jag says 2.8!
But the Jag is variable ratio so maybe that's a part of it or none of it?
The Jag just feels slower and less responsive in that department and yeah the Maserati engine IS more fun but it eats more gas too!
![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
So focusing on the steering any thoughts on this?
#2
#4
#5
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That car is considered a GT and not a sports car. My track car is a LOT more responsive than that Maserati was so it's not like I'm trying to make a radical change here. My friends M6 convertible was the same way, quicker and more rseponsive. So I think Jaguar just decided to leave it pretty close to a standard S-Type.
What's confusing me a bit is that the Maserati certainly felt like a quicker ratio but the specs say otherwise???
#6
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![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I drive a lot of different cars but I do try and stay away from driving the ones that will just ruin my own cars for me. That takes discipline.
I just think that the STR could use and get an improvement in the steering department. Probably a shock tower brace in the front too. I don't know if that will fix the wobbly feeling of the front suspension when you drive it hard over bumpy roads but it's worth a try I suppose.
#7
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Both my 300zx twin turbo and Volvo v70r have quick steering racks. I really don't Mind the setup in the STR. To me, my STR takes the roll of GT car, not so cramped, 6 speed auto with low final drive so 6th is low rpm, comfortable, muscle but not overdone to the point where you don't want to drive the car every day.
If I want to bang gears I can jump into the Volvo or the 300zx TT. Even though the 300zx just has a stock suspension for now, it handles much much much better than my other cars. It's lighter, more stiff, and the center of gravity is much lower. I don't get the sense of the car wanting to roll over some in the turns. But on the flip side it's much less relaxing. I have to be a 100 percent all the time or the rear end will step right out. The ac sucks and the car is very loud.
If I want to bang gears I can jump into the Volvo or the 300zx TT. Even though the 300zx just has a stock suspension for now, it handles much much much better than my other cars. It's lighter, more stiff, and the center of gravity is much lower. I don't get the sense of the car wanting to roll over some in the turns. But on the flip side it's much less relaxing. I have to be a 100 percent all the time or the rear end will step right out. The ac sucks and the car is very loud.
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#8
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Well, no you weren't but that's OK ... ![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I drive a lot of different cars but I do try and stay away from driving the ones that will just ruin my own cars for me. That takes discipline.
I just think that the STR could use and get an improvement in the steering department. Probably a shock tower brace in the front too. I don't know if that will fix the wobbly feeling of the front suspension when you drive it hard over bumpy roads but it's worth a try I suppose.
![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I drive a lot of different cars but I do try and stay away from driving the ones that will just ruin my own cars for me. That takes discipline.
I just think that the STR could use and get an improvement in the steering department. Probably a shock tower brace in the front too. I don't know if that will fix the wobbly feeling of the front suspension when you drive it hard over bumpy roads but it's worth a try I suppose.
Scroll down a bit to read a quick reason
Are human beings this ignorant? A strut brace rant. - Page 3
#9
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I think one big factor is the smoothness of the car. I autocross and really was disappointed with my STR. It just seemed so normal and I was expecting a SUPER CAR!!
But it's very deceptive because if you time the car against other cars doing the same thing you will be surprised by how fast and quick you are going. It's like the old race saying that you need to slow down to go fast!
The STR has a variable ratio rack and electronic controlled variable assist. Some of the Lincoln LS guys unplug the steering rack electrical plug to force it into low assist in all situations. Can't change anything on the variable ratio. It's mechanically built into the rack.
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But it's very deceptive because if you time the car against other cars doing the same thing you will be surprised by how fast and quick you are going. It's like the old race saying that you need to slow down to go fast!
The STR has a variable ratio rack and electronic controlled variable assist. Some of the Lincoln LS guys unplug the steering rack electrical plug to force it into low assist in all situations. Can't change anything on the variable ratio. It's mechanically built into the rack.
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#10
#11
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No offense but it's a link to chat site discussion.
Strutbars don't do much for double wishbone cars.
Scroll down a bit to read a quick reason
Are human beings this ignorant? A strut brace rant. - Page 3
Scroll down a bit to read a quick reason
Are human beings this ignorant? A strut brace rant. - Page 3
#12
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[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]]The STR has a variable ratio rack and electronic controlled variable assist. Some of the Lincoln LS guys unplug the steering rack electrical plug to force it into low assist in all situations. Can't change anything on the variable ratio. It's mechanically built into the rack.
#13
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In addition to the variable ratio, another consideration is that while the LTL turns is similar, what steering angle is achieved for each turn. If two cars have identical LTL turns, but one has double the turning circle, the one with the smaller turning circle will have a greater steering angle per turn.
Alignment also comes into play. Especially toe-in. A car with toe-out, or less toe-in will feel sharp ... but may be uncomfortable at speed because it will tend to dart.
Alignment also comes into play. Especially toe-in. A car with toe-out, or less toe-in will feel sharp ... but may be uncomfortable at speed because it will tend to dart.
#14
#15
#16
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Yes I know and I have to admit that the spyder version of the Maserati DOES have a shorter wheelbase than the Coupe version and probably the S-Type as well but I haven't checked the actual specs.
Suspension is something of a black art for us mere mortals which is why I shy away from personal modifications as opposed to a tuned solution.
None of these cars (Maserati, M6)was darty though. Stiffer bushings perhaps but mostly it just felt like a quicker much more direct steering setup.
Getting there without messing up the car in other ways is another matter ...
Suspension is something of a black art for us mere mortals which is why I shy away from personal modifications as opposed to a tuned solution.
None of these cars (Maserati, M6)was darty though. Stiffer bushings perhaps but mostly it just felt like a quicker much more direct steering setup.
Getting there without messing up the car in other ways is another matter ...
In addition to the variable ratio, another consideration is that while the LTL turns is similar, what steering angle is achieved for each turn. If two cars have identical LTL turns, but one has double the turning circle, the one with the smaller turning circle will have a greater steering angle per turn.
Alignment also comes into play. Especially toe-in. A car with toe-out, or less toe-in will feel sharp ... but may be uncomfortable at speed because it will tend to dart.
Alignment also comes into play. Especially toe-in. A car with toe-out, or less toe-in will feel sharp ... but may be uncomfortable at speed because it will tend to dart.
#17
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Compare the tires as well. Different designs can affect the turn-in.
So, between tires and alignment you can do a lot in a way that is not too expensive, and is completely reversible. In terms of alignment ... setting the toe repeatedly ought to be under $50.
Darting on insufficient toe-in shows when there is too much. What you would want to do is work out a likely number, dial it in, and then take it for a test.
More negative camber helps, as would slightly less caster.
So, between tires and alignment you can do a lot in a way that is not too expensive, and is completely reversible. In terms of alignment ... setting the toe repeatedly ought to be under $50.
Darting on insufficient toe-in shows when there is too much. What you would want to do is work out a likely number, dial it in, and then take it for a test.
More negative camber helps, as would slightly less caster.
#18
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These are fine tuning items and yes they are noticeable but they alone will not make the sort of differences I'm describing. Some of them could also have very adverse effects of tire wear.
Based upon how I've observed the front suspension lose it's composure quite easily with fast driving on bumpy roads I have to wonder if the some the bushings could use firming up and that might take some of the sloppiness out of the steering as well. But it could very well introduce unwanted behavior that I frankly not willing to just guess at with the trial and error method. It also doesn't completely explain the greater amount of sawing of the steering wheel required with an STR.
But you're right in that it's probably a good tuning of all of these factors that accounts for the differences between these car's steering feel. The Italian and German car companies are pretty good at this. The Jag was always meant to be a softer drive.
This usually the point where one concludes it's just cheaper to sell and get the car that drives better as is.
It would be nice to find someone who's already figured it out now wouldn't it?
Based upon how I've observed the front suspension lose it's composure quite easily with fast driving on bumpy roads I have to wonder if the some the bushings could use firming up and that might take some of the sloppiness out of the steering as well. But it could very well introduce unwanted behavior that I frankly not willing to just guess at with the trial and error method. It also doesn't completely explain the greater amount of sawing of the steering wheel required with an STR.
But you're right in that it's probably a good tuning of all of these factors that accounts for the differences between these car's steering feel. The Italian and German car companies are pretty good at this. The Jag was always meant to be a softer drive.
This usually the point where one concludes it's just cheaper to sell and get the car that drives better as is.
It would be nice to find someone who's already figured it out now wouldn't it?
![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Compare the tires as well. Different designs can affect the turn-in.
So, between tires and alignment you can do a lot in a way that is not too expensive, and is completely reversible. In terms of alignment ... setting the toe repeatedly ought to be under $50.
Darting on insufficient toe-in shows when there is too much. What you would want to do is work out a likely number, dial it in, and then take it for a test.
More negative camber helps, as would slightly less caster.
So, between tires and alignment you can do a lot in a way that is not too expensive, and is completely reversible. In terms of alignment ... setting the toe repeatedly ought to be under $50.
Darting on insufficient toe-in shows when there is too much. What you would want to do is work out a likely number, dial it in, and then take it for a test.
More negative camber helps, as would slightly less caster.
#19
#20
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But you're right in that it's probably a good tuning of all of these factors that accounts for the differences between these car's steering feel. The Italian and German car companies are pretty good at this. The Jag was always meant to be a softer drive.
This usually the point where one concludes it's just cheaper to sell and get the car that drives better as is.
It would be nice to find someone who's already figured it out now wouldn't it?![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
This usually the point where one concludes it's just cheaper to sell and get the car that drives better as is.
It would be nice to find someone who's already figured it out now wouldn't it?
![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Every car has its own traits. The STR is probably just fine as long as you are not dwelling on the Maser. It's just that you've driven it recently. But yes, buying what you want is always easier than forcing something else into that same mold.