I posted a long time ago about bumper re-sprays, now that spring is here Im starting to get quotes. I NEED the front bumper to be stripped and or sanded (whatever they do). Not just a re-spray. The original owner had a ****ty re-spray done and I have some peeling going on, along with some serious, serious pitting from highway rocks. I am getting quotes between $350-$450. I honestly think that this job should only cost $300 max. Yes they need to get rid of all the old paint but it is a small bumper cover, and they are not fixing any damage.

What is a reasonable amount to pay for this job, and does anyone know a reputable place in the Boston area, thanks and god bless.

 

Bull, I don't think that those numbers are to far off, especially if they are going to remove the bumper skin to paint it, which I would insist that the shop does. So with that being typed:


1) skin removal
2) sanded
3) primed
4) wet sanded again
5) paint possibly 2 or more coats
6) clear coat
7) install skin

There is alot of work involved. Plus we had a small (very small) scratch in our rear skin last year sanded and painted by a very reputable shop and paid $400.00. It was high but you would never know it was there, well worth a couple of bucks more than an Earl Scheib job.

 

I need my rear bumper done....

But I am in search of a 05 hood and fenders so I can do the mina gallery sport body kit.....

 

nice!!!!!

 

Its so sexy......but I still cant believe that this will not bolt up to my 03....The fitment has to be so little!

 

Thanks for the info Rick, but who in the world is Earl Scheib?

Riski stop jacking my thread...............JK

Anything I NEED to make certain a particular paint shop does or does not do? Obviously do not need factory paint seeing as the black is easy to match, and I just want to make certain that this DOES NOT happen again. I mean seriously I cannot believe it is peeling already and the stone chips are freaking huge.....drives me nuts, dont even want to look at it from the front, and that's my favorite view!!!!!!

 

Thos prices do sound right though.....that is about what I was quoted for the rear....

 

Mine looks VERY BLACK, but I have A LOT of mettalic green in mine.....is yours the same?

 

No I havent seen green in mine. My color is c2a1051pec (black ebony)

 

Where can you find the paint code? My title says black but in the sun and certain angles and lighting it is a dark green, no lighting and it is BLACK.....

 

I just read it off of the touch up paint I got from the dealer. I just gave him my VIN. Im sure the code is somewhere on the car, maybe the drivers door? Probably says where it is in the manual. I dont see any green at all, must be a completely different color. Im curious what yours is, let me know when you find out.

 

I will......I have a feeling it is gonna cost a bit to match, as I hope to have the hood, fenders, bumper, sides skirts and rear bumper down.....

 

I'm having my front and rear bumper covers refinished at a local college restoration shop. The instructors are masters. And perfectionists - no shortcuts taken when teaching - if anything isn't right, it gets redone until it is. It does take a little longer than a regular shop though.

 

hhmmmm good idea there wedgewa

 

I kinda knew some of us would not remember Earl Scheib. He franchised a body shop back in the early seventies. Their motto was "We'll paint any car any color $79.95" That included a lousy masking job, if your window was opened they included your interior as well as overspray everywhere! 1980's it was $99.95, 1990's - $129.95 and early 2000 - $199.95.

Check with family, friends, fellow cohorts for referrals. I have found a local shop that specializes in restoring classics from start to finish. Being the economy is what it is, I asked the owner if they were interested in small work. He stated "at this point work is work bring it on"!

Also worth checking into, like "Dent Wizard", there are mobile companies that go around to dealers and auto auctions that specialize in bumper skin repair and respray.

 

I agree that Bull's original quote for the job is in the ballpark for being fair. But as Rick advised, check around for reputable paint shops. Any time you put paint on a car, you want it done right the first time. Look at what you're dealing with now. It will be worth an extra hundred or so not to have to deal with it again....

Oh, and regardless of what paint shop you eventually choose, be sure to let that new paint cure for at least 60 days before you put anything other than soap and water on it. Wax or polish can interfere with the curing process, so let that paint set up for at least a couple of months before you shine it up....

 

You can fit the front bumper on if you also buy the later hood and grill. You'll have to drill some new holes to bolt the bumper to the fenders and also buy the later front undertray.

 

So the fenders are the same? Still thread jacking

 

Well I drove around getting estimates today and I'm gonna go with this place called Paul's Auto Body. Its a fairly large shop and I spoke with the owner and we went over the car. I got a good vibe from him, and he showed appreciation for the car. I think his personality sealed the deal for me. I also saw a lot of antique cars there getting worked on, so I'm assuming if a car enthusiast brings their project cars there, that is nothing but a good sign.

He quoted me 350, and the soonest I can get it done is 2 weeks from now, which may be another good sign? He'll remove the cover sand it down bare and re-spray. He also said he "bakes" it. I am assuming this is common and speeds up the curing process. I mentioned to him about not using anything but soap and water for the first couple months, and he somewhat shrugged it off and said that since they bake it it should not be a problem. Regardless, I will take your advice Jon, and just use soap and water. Anything else I should insist upon when I drop it off?

 

When my wife's S-Type underwent front-end repairs last August after the clown with the Geico insurance plowed me, the body shop I chose (very, very upscale and expensive but it was Geico's dime, not mine) told me that they recommend a 30-day waiting period after painting before wax or polish should be applied. I've heard everything from "you can wax it tomorrow" to "never wax it again - our finish is clearcoated and that's all you'll ever need"....

But I had a trusted friend who owned the most meticulous body shop I've ever set foot in for more than 30 years before he sold it and retired a couple of years ago. He did several fairly major repair & paint jobs for me over the years, all looked factory-perfect after he and his specialists finished with them (one job required that he have my vehicle for nearly three months - he wasn't happy with the paint match on the hood of my 1986 Alfa Romeo Quadrifoglio Spider convertible and wound up painting it, sanding it down, and painting it again a total of six times before he would finally release the car to me), and he always told me to err on the side of caution with curing paint. "That means a minimum of 60 days, Jon. Don't get impatient. Resist the urge to get some protective wax on my finished surfaces. Just keep it clean with mild soap and water and let it breathe for at least 60 days. If you can't wait it out and give my paint the time it needs to fully cure, then go find somebody else to do your paintwork for you."

This guy was a master craftsman. I've always heeded his words and my repaired and repainted surfaces never had a problem as a result. Sure wish he was still in the business - I would have taken our damaged S-Type to him before Geico could have blinked....