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Standard maintenance + Water pump + more roundup parts & help

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  #1  
Old 02-08-2013 | 11:12 PM
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From: hollywood
Default Standard maintenance + Water pump + more roundup parts & help

--- WARNING LONG POST / EASY STUFF / MAINTENANCE ---
Hello all,
Need some help & just fyi I have done a lot of searching and reading - amazing website and forum - thanks to all for previous and future input.

Anyway on to my post, 2004 S-type 3.0 105k miles. I LOVE MY JAG! Luckily NO tranny quirts but I do have minor steering whine (tried additive - no help)

I have a coolant leak, I can see it dripping off when I top off my coolant and start the car, looks to be from the water pump gasket but more towards the engine and maybe 5 drips a second only when the engine is on. First help I need - I will replace the water pump / gasket / thermostat, people say replace hoses as mine are all original but do you mean the upper radiator hose/lower hose or other hoses? I am kind of lost what to replace?

Also, I will be changing all 6 spark plugs, o2 sensor (see below), fuel filter, oil filter, oil, air filter, cabin air filter and here people say replace intake manifold gasket? are both gaskets identical? What other parts would people recommend to replace for maintenance? Car is almost all original - previous was very lucky and only did minor maintenance.

Further, I do have a check engine light with code P1646 which sensor is this? I am not sure what bank 0 1 mean - in relation to the car how would I find P1646?

Finally last, my car when starting in the morning (Florida here- so not cold weather) the car is very shaking/surging - when pressing the gas (around 500-1500 rpms) the rpm needle goes down car hardly moves, not up and when you hit around 2000 rpms it races back to up to the proper spot and car jerks and moves. I am going to revisit this issue after the above maintenance is done but could this be ignition coils?

APPRECIATE ANY HELP IN ADVANCE!!!!! (Sorry for the long post! lol)
 
  #2  
Old 02-09-2013 | 03:52 AM
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Banks etc are described in Vehicle Spec file in stickies. Probably also in JTIS.

Could be coils.

Plugs should have been done at 70K and are due at 140K. Coils matter more than plugs if faulty.

Search will get you the code but also grab the codes PDF from stickies and it's in JTIS.
 
  #3  
Old 02-09-2013 | 10:22 AM
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+1 on intermitient misfiring coils.

Any coolant leak, no matter how small should be promptly addressed. Sounds like the water pump - I would look closer and get the issue addressed - if your changing the water pump, best to change the thermostat and associated hoses - based on mileage.

Regarding the P1646 - this is your O2 sensor (heater circuit I believe) - Bank 1, sensor 1 (Passenger side - O2 sensor located between the exhaust manifold and before the cat converter) - purchase a O2 sensor with "plug and play" harness - another words - don't buy the universal one and splice the connector to the replacement O2 sensor.

At 105K miles I would change all plugs (if they weren't serviced at 70K) and I would invest in new coils as well - don't buy aftermarket - get Jaguar OES coils - yes, more expensive but aftermarket coils stink!

If you see any oil residue on the coil boot - them new cam gaskets and spark well gaskets are in order.
 

Last edited by abonano; 02-09-2013 at 10:26 AM.
  #4  
Old 02-09-2013 | 11:21 AM
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Great guy, thanks for the info!

Getting the JTIS installed now & thanks for tip about coils, i was looking at aftermarket ones!! Will change out the plugs then decide on coils - how to tell if coils are bad? I found this link but on the S - type 3 coils/sparks are under the intake so kind of hard to test with this method. How to Tell If an Ignition Coil Is Bad | eHow.com

Will buy a thermostat along with water pump/gasket - which hoses would you recommend changing?
 
  #5  
Old 02-09-2013 | 02:05 PM
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If you are going to change your plugs go ahead and change the coils. The coils sit right on top of the plugs so you have to remove them anyway to get to the plugs. To be able to get to number 5 the wipers and cowl cover and airbox and intake manifold all have to come off the car. There's no way I'd do all that work and put a coil with 105,000 miles back in there!! In no time at all you'll be doing all this work all over again.

Also, do yourself a favor and buy Jaguar coil packs. If you want to read a tragic story and find out how many times I've had to do this coil replacement job just search my posts. I got a bad aftermarket coil right out of the box!!!! I had to re-do the job again before I could even drive the car!!! Of course it was the number 5 coil that was defective. That's the one in the very back on the passenger side that is IMPOSSIBLE to get to without taking EVERYTHING off the car to get to it.

BTW..........did I mention that I'm having to replace two more coils as we speak? It's been less than a year so they are still under warranty so they will give me the parts for free but I still have to do the labor.........Grrrrrrrr.
 
  #6  
Old 02-09-2013 | 03:11 PM
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WOW dude that is a story! Cant believe that - ok I guess it is factory coils for me, part # C2S42673 looks to be factory?? And you are right - its a lot of labor to take the passenger side stuff off to get to the plugs- may as well replace coils I was trying to save some $ but I plan on keeping the car for awhile and my labor is free so ill do it! Thanks for the tips.

JTIS is amazing! shows all the steps for removal and etc ... LOVE IT!!! Cant thank this forum enough for that.
 
  #7  
Old 02-09-2013 | 03:19 PM
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rockauto.com shows 4 coils for my 04 s-type for a good price $30/each are any of those good or only buy from the dealer for these?
 
  #8  
Old 02-09-2013 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by xoroniox
rockauto.com shows 4 coils for my 04 s-type for a good price $30/each are any of those good or only buy from the dealer for these?
Don't get those coils from Rock Auto and don't get them from the dealer - purchase them from one of the Jaguar parts suppliers like www.jagbits.com or such...
 
  #9  
Old 02-09-2013 | 07:24 PM
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I've bought mine from Advance auto (~$55 each) and I haven't had an issue (yet). What I like about it is if one fails, I can take it back due to the warranty.
 
  #10  
Old 02-10-2013 | 10:46 AM
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True - thanks for all the helps guys.

Any advice on the serpentine belt? I was looking at advance auto - Dayco belt 5061070 , any better belts or recommendations? I figure since ill be in there for the water pump may as well change the belt since its original.
 
  #11  
Old 02-10-2013 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by xoroniox
rockauto.com shows 4 coils for my 04 s-type for a good price $30/each are any of those good or only buy from the dealer for these?
Stay away from the Standard Motor Products part UF435. I've had 4 failures out of 6 in less than a year. RockAuto.com has been GREAT about returning the parts. But that isn't the problem. It's having to do all that work over and over............
 
  #12  
Old 02-10-2013 | 05:57 PM
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Holy S*&^ ... Got it - I wont mess with those coils lol.

Any advice on water pump / serpentine - I found these two, they look ok to me (the price is right!):

water pump
GMB 125 6040 New Water Pump | eBay

or

A1 Cardone 55 23413 | eBay

serpentine belt:
Dayco 5061070 Serpentine Belt | eBay

and thermostat:
Buy Stant Thermostat, 180 Degrees Fahrenheit 14138 at Advance Auto Parts

For thermostat do I need to buy the gasket separate?
 
  #13  
Old 02-11-2013 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by xoroniox
Holy S*&^ ... Got it - I wont mess with those coils lol.

Any advice on water pump / serpentine - I found these two, they look ok to me (the price is right!):

serpentine belt:
Dayco 5061070 Serpentine Belt | eBay

Dayco is an OEM so highly recommended.
 
  #14  
Old 02-11-2013 | 07:57 AM
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Three quick tips on your routine maintenance that I learned the hard way:
1. To drain the coolant, it may not be necessary to remove the PITA plastic panel under the radiator, as called for in the JTIS. My '04 has an access hole that allows me to reach the drain **** and put a hose on it.
2. Be very careful when you buy your air filter. I had to return two or three that were listed for my car, but didn't quite fit. I finally found that a WIX 42261 was an exact replacement.
3. To replace your fuel filter, you will need a quick-connect release tool, but not just any one will work. I tried plastic tools from a couple of sets, as well as a universal-style metal one. None of them would work. The one that works is metal, 5/16", cranberry-colored, available at most autoparts stores.
Hope this helps!
 
  #15  
Old 02-11-2013 | 10:54 AM
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Ditto on the air filter fitment advice above. Just because the store's cross-reference guide states it will fit doesn't mean it actually will. If you cannot take your old air filter with you to the store, then at least remove it from its housing, trace its outline on a paper grocery bag or a large sheet of paper, re-install it, and take the traced outline with you to the store. Lay any potential new air filters down on the traced outline to ensure an exact fit. Worked for me with our 2005 S-Type. I wound up with an STP air filter from Autozone that fit perfectly. I think it cost about $18 last October. The Purolator filter (as well as several other brands) specified in the store's cross-reference guide (and even on Purolator's website) did not fit....
 
  #16  
Old 02-13-2013 | 11:08 AM
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Thanks guy for all the help and tips! Much appreciated.

Plenty of parts ordered to keep me busy for sat/sun. Still need to pickup that fuel filter removal tool and air filter.

Will update more in a few days.
 
  #17  
Old 02-13-2013 | 01:58 PM
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I had the same problem with fuel filter tools not working and found a set at harbor freigt that had the cranberry colored tool that worked perfect.
 
  #18  
Old 03-02-2013 | 08:32 PM
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Hello all - quick update.
As of now I have changed out the fuel filter / water pump / serpentine belt / oil / oil filter / cabin air filter & air filter. Everything was pretty straight forward and the JTIS helped immensely. The serpentine belt was easy to remove - routed it back in was a 15min job. The water pump took a lot longer (3hours) I found the hardest part was unclipping the hoses and putting those metal clips back on .. pain in the ***.

Tomorrow I will replace o2 sensor - I have a code P1646 but I dont know the location - this is what I have found but not sure what the cat converter is? obviously the exhaust are the pipes routing to the rear of the car? Can anyone clear up my confusion?

Bank 1 - Sensor 1 - Passenger side "upstream" O2 sensor - located between the exhaust manifold and the cat converter

Thanks to everyone for replies advice really helped.
 
  #19  
Old 03-03-2013 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by xoroniox
Tomorrow I will replace o2 sensor - I have a code P1646 but I dont know the location - this is what I have found but not sure what the cat converter is? obviously the exhaust are the pipes routing to the rear of the car? Can anyone clear up my confusion?

Bank 1 - Sensor 1 - Passenger side "upstream" O2 sensor - located between the exhaust manifold and the cat converter

Thanks to everyone for replies advice really helped.
Yes, correct location - just be sure to replace the O2 sensor with OEM style connector - don't waste your $ and time with those generic O2 sensors you have to splice in the old connector. Good Luck and glad your making forward progress...
 
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