Your problem sounds like a battery which has dropped below the minimum voltage threshold necessary to properly energize the systems detailed above...

 

Not a battery problem I have put a new battery in it. I came to the car today and it started and drove with no problems then the whole cluster stopped working and wouldn't show the miles or revs ect. Turned it back off charged up the battery a bit and it started another 3 or 4 times without any issues. Then it went back into the same state where it will not turn over and the steering will not unlock. So I also think my problem is intermittent but I have not been able to locate the fault. I have checked fuses and solenoids ect but I think this may be a software fault. I did start to assume it may be the steering column lock as if it does not unlock the car will still be immobilized but I am unsure.

Its a shame that the solution has not been found yet but when I get it working again I am going to leave the key in the ignition and lock it with the spare so the car can still be started.

Hopefully someone finds a solution soon. If I have any luck I will defiantly be posting my results

 

It's not going to be software - the people here have many years of experience with these cars and it just isn't going to be that.

Maybe your car isn't charging the battery as it sure still sounds like a battery issue.

 

Not flashed anything yet we are going over the car at work while we locate exactly which module it was that was reflashed. Today as it happens we think we found the paperwork regarding the vehicle in question and it looks like it was the body control module. As soon as we find the history of the job which brought this up we will then locate (in the archives somewhere) the software for the S Type and try the same cure on my car and see what happens. Its going to take time as obviously I don't want to rush into it and end up with a very large paperweight...lol. I have to confess though from what I have read at work on the job sheets I am getting quite optimistic.

 

+1 on that!

Before convincing yourself of some exotic, unlikely, and expensive scenario, try this instead to rule out low prestart voltage, a common problem:

Get thee an automatic battery charger with at least a ten amp output. Do NOT waste your time with a trickle charger, it won't do the job. Each night for a week or so, hook up said battery charger to your car. You should be able to gently close the trunk over the charger cord. The seal should flex enough. Yes, hooking up the charger each night is a nuisance, but the effort won't cost anything and may hopefully prevent you getting lost down a rabbit hole. Such effort will provide some VERY useful info for troubleshooting.

Each morning, once the battery is fully topped off, start the car and see if the fault is still present. Repeat every night for a week or so to see if the fault is consistently gone.

If so, you have just confirmed low prestart voltage was the culprit. Your next steps will be to determine exactly why. It could be the new battery is defective. You could have some type of drain depleting the battery when it just sits. Or maybe your car's charging system is not up to snuff. Maybe it's all of the above. But this is something to consider only after trying the battery charger trick for a week. Please try that and report back. Troubleshoot with an open mind. Go where the symptoms take you, not some predetermined conclusion. (AFAIK, you're not a climate change forecaster.) Hopefully you don't have a highly unlikely software problem, but rather low prestart voltage cause by some (easily corrected) garden variety issue.

 

Yep you could well be correct. A couple of things though.....that saying about if you eliminate the possible you are left with the impossible...i've done the battery route and its not helped to be honest. Where we work fault finding is what we do for a living and some of the engineers here date right back to the days of testing the S type so I figure they too know what they are on about. Its cost nothing to check this out so for now until someone comes up with a better idea which hasn't been exhausted I''ll go with it.
The reason they are looking at the software issue is because it could be a security related issue which could also mean a software issue.......its a possibility and a very feasible one in my opinion.

 

I have tried a different battery today from my other car and no luck (it is also a new battery and works perfect). I have had a charger on the car multiple times and have checked the output of the battery and the amount of charge on the battery (I have tried this over the past couple of months the issue actually began in February). Still no luck I may look into removing the steering column as when the problem has occurred on other cars (earlier a types) they can remove fuse 19 from the drivers foot well to prevent the steering lock mechanism from functioning which then solves the problem. You can pick a used steering column up on ebay for 30 to 40 quid so I think I'll give it a punt.

 

Is the alarm light in the centre of the dash flashing? There is different flash sequences for different issues. 1 blink and pause followed by 3 blinks is a problem with the key (code 14). Suggesting the key isn't talking to the car or car not recognising the key.

I am out of my depth with codes. But codes U1262 SCP (J1850) and U2195 have come up associated with this problem. U1262 – “SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault”, or sometimes as “SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault – Instrument Cluster” One instance on an X type the owner had progammed 2 new keys and it did not help with his steering column locked issue. But he also changed the ECU. So if you do reprogram two keys it doesn't look like it will fix all the problems associated with the steering column locked issue.

The link (below) is a technical bulletin with PATS anti theft flow charts and it mentions faulty wiring and pin connectors to be checked down at page 30. Such as bent pins or corrosion in the wiring.

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...t%20System.pdf

This is theory to me and my problem of pulling the fuse seems easy compared to some problems with the anti theft security and I believe to pin point a wiring issue may take a lot of time and effort. If you are not getting blinking security codes on the dash, then I think you are on the right track to re-flash the car if nothing simple works and hopefully the right diagnostic scanning will lead you in the direction to take.

 

Yes I did wonder about damaged / corroded wires and connectors, but I could be searching forever. Thanks for the link and advise it will help to know where to start looking, I'll update once I've been able to have a look at the car again.

 

If it's a security issue:
1. PATS will flash a code
2. you will have DTC(s)

Many other faults will also store codes but you will need a fairly advanced tool to read them - it will pay for itself with ONE use!

 

the led on the dash blinks constantly (quite fast) after I have unlocked the car and insert the key. I did manage to connect the OBD to the car yesterday when it was working for 10 minutes (I cannot connect to the car when the steering column stays locked ect.)
it did pull up codes for the instrument cluster and traction control. I am starting to suspect the instrument cluster but I've ordered a used steering column off ebay so I'll try that first.

 

Count the pattern over 2-5 mins

 

The DTC fault code on my car is P1797 and the light on the dash / PATS code is 1 blink then a pause followed by 2 blinks. The car has switched on fine a couple of times but I notice when the car does not start / crank it doesn't makes the noise from around the steering wheel area as soon as you insert the key into the ignition.
Does anyone have any ideas?

thanks to Paul for the information it's been very helpful

 

You can see the meaning with causes via JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource or get the (free) workshop manual from this site.

 

Hi Charlie
You put in the new battery and charged it up. Try clearing the codes and see if they stay cleared.

If they don't clear. I have read that the P1797 code can be related to the wiring on the gearbox being cotaminated with oil. No personal experience but worth a look at the wires and connector.

 

Hi Paul, yes I did read that about the oil on the gearbox wires, I will take a look but does anyone know where the connectors are located on the gearbox to save me some time looking it would be appreciated. The P1797 code relates to the connection between the ECM and TCM which would explain the gearbox fault and other faults coming up on the dash.

as said previously the key does not get recognised as it does not make the 'noise' as soon as the key is inserted into the ignition barrel. This makes me think it may be a transponder problem as sometimes when I insert the key it makes the noise from around the steering wheel and it will start straight up, but when the car doesn't work it wont make the sound when the key is inserted.

Does anyone know where the transponder / receiver on the car is located?

 

That one is (a coil) where the key is when inserted. Unlikely itself to be faulty but a bad connection or a fault in related parts, possibly.

 

Well I took my car in and we did some experiments on it ( I say we I mean a clever engineer who I am assisting..lol) Here is what we found out.
When you remove your key from the ignition there is the motor type sound of the steering lock engaging, after this if you wobble the steering wheel the lock will fully engage mechanically. Simple fact is if you do not get the electrical sound when you pull the key out then the lock won't mechanically engage and when you come to start the car again the problem will occur. Still don't know why it happens but if you put the key in and out a couple of times till you get the motor type sound, this means the first stage has activated and the lock will engage which means the message will be gone. Hope this makes sense its not the easiest thing to explain but it works on my car. Just had the message now and got rid of it in about 10 seconds.
Still working on the actual problem though and can only do it at certain times I'm afraid.

 

Great observation!

Do you think this is a mechanical problem? Is there any electrical feedback to tell the controlling computer whether or not the mechanism has moved as commanded? In that case, perhaps there is some binding stopping the travel. Listen carefully to determine if the motor even tries to run. Or even better, rig up an ammeter to watch the motor’s current draw. It should spike up if the motor is commanded to run but can’t move.

Or could this be an electrical issue, and the computer isn't sending the command? That could be caused by an intermittent input, and the computer is responding exactly as programmed, unaware it’s time to lock the steering.

 

We suspect electrical and that is our next port of call. Possibly lack of communication between key and ignition or a module is failing to pick up the signal that is sent.