registering and subscribing

 

Yes...when I first heard you start it I was like

for the guys wondering about how loud it is-it is pretty loud compared to the usual quietness of the heEaton s/c. It is as loud a a D1 Procharger...it is just a different sound...more of a grind rather than your typical blower whistle at idle that you would get from a centri blower...

and Yes, I know it is called an Eaton, but us Mustang guys call it a heEaton instead...LOL

 

I usually put an aftermarket pulley grip system on small pulley'd vehicles such as Metco pulleys or similar. i have even made a couple pulley system set ups on customers cars before too. usually to cure the problem of belt radius being to tight i use a goodyear belt. it has relief grooves cut in it and once it is wrapped around a small pulley it actually has more contact surface area because it has far less bugling and buckling associated with a solid belt.

also, you have to remember, for all wanting more boost from the heEaton...at some point the roots s/c will reach a point where it will make more heat than horsepower. For heEaton M112 equipped vehicles, that boost level is usually right around 15-16psi. with extensive intercooler work it is possible to get a bit more than 15-16psi, but let me tell you, it ain't all that easy to do cost effectively...LOL.

A bigger crank pulley will and does work, but you have to watch that you do not exceed the max rpm of the heEaton s/c...the max rpm, i cannot remember off the top of my head, but i know 17 psi puts you close with a roots s/c. I wanna say the rpm is low, like right around 15,000-16,000 rpm's, but don't quote me on that. Just for reference, a Kenne Bell Blowzilla has a max rpm that is between 26,000-28,000 rpms and that is achieved at about 23-26psi.

i know i am a newbe here and i am not trying to step on toes, just trying to pass along some knowledge and help where i can.

 

So let me get this straight...you're upset because whatever this "Snakebite" setup is doesn't make more boost than what it does now.

Do you or do you not realize that boost is just a measure of backpressure on your engine?

Do you or do you not realize that the more pressurized that air charge is, the more heat it creates?

If I'm following this whole debacle correctly, this all started with you pulling the factory blower off the car to replace a leaking coolant line that got too hot and split.

And now you're constantly stating that you're upset because this Stiege-ported blower doesn't create enough boost/heat to satisfy you.



No offense, but by what I've been reading, I'm really impressed that you were mechanically inclined enough to get the blower off the car in the first place.

 

If a firm advertises their product will do a list of things at a price and then it doesn't do those things.... isn't that when normal people get upset?

Your point is what?

 

LOL @ "normal people"

A little common sense goes a long way.

And I'm not talking out of line...I own a near-1,000hp street car and it damn sure didn't get there by merely increasing boost.

 

yeah this is why I use a Goodyear gatorback on my Nissan when I had custom pulleys made. Also made larger idlers that mount up high under the blower to increase contact area. I also just realized I typed 1.75-1.8 what I ment was 2.75-2.8" I had a 2.9" on my MP90 and dropped to a 2.75. BUt I have already gotten issues with slippage as Im starting to get alittle shredding of the inner belt rigges from heat from slippage. Im just not really wanting to put anymore money into this dead Eaton or Heaton as you call it for all the formentioned reasons with heat, boost drop off and jsut poor pull up high. Im looking to either drop a Whipple on it and custom fab the upper plenum mount and Whipple already told me they would sell a standalone 2.3l with the air intake from the blower to TB from a Escalade kit. All I have to do is cut off my TB mount I already use and tig it to the Escalade 1. This is something Ken Bell wouldn't do when I talked to them ealier this year(sell stand alone SC) But talking to Andre(AVOS) he has a hookup for them but he's in the UK so
Anyway I think everyone needs to decide where they what to go realisticly and go there. Otherwise its just wasted money poured into the stock setup if you really want to push more than 450hp @crank.
Looking at pics of Avos's setup and reading the article it looks so well designed and fit it looks like it came from the factory. And while not cheap how much do we all spend to get what we want and realise when we get there that the road was full of needlessly wasted time and money. Not that TT wasted money. Just everyone tha treads this and other forums and threads needs to truely decide on who they REALLY are, and wqhat THEY want. Ive had companies trying to keep me on the Eaton bandwagon, like moving up to a MP 112. But in the end I know I wouldnt be happy and just looking to go where I am now and the MP112 and porting/ pulleys etc just has not/would not get me where I want either...and it would then all be waster time and money. Hell throw a 50-75hp nitrous fogger nozzle in the mix and be there for sure...
If you want to go to D just jump past A B and C

 

When I spoke to Bob, I told him the size of my pulley setups and he did the math. The stock boost as calculated came in at approx 12 psi and the modified boost came in at 16.9 if I recall. After he did the math, he said probably expect to see 16 psi.

It appears that I had a vacuum leak after the blower so i'm sure it was also bleeding off boost. It'll be interesting to see how the car runs once I get it fixed.

@brutal - yeah, I have found that any smaller than a 2.75" will generally start to cause belt slip if there's any decent load on the belt.

Also, what about buying a blower off a mustang guy? Not sure if those will work, but they're trying to upgrade from the "smaller" ones all the time to the newer big ones.

Back to the thread... these snakebite blowers have made good power on other cars with this same blower. I don't see too much reason why we can't get pretty decent results as well as long as we make intercooler upgrades or add alky injection.

 

The intercoolers on the '03-04 Cobras were great in reducing IAT's. Are these blower setups in the STR's similar? What other cars came with that particular blower?

Nice list of cars in the sig, quicketz

 

@ VETTKLR
I don't think I've said that I'm disappointed in the boost at all. Where did you get that?

I'm disappointed in the exaggerations and implications made by Stiege and the refusal
to rebut anything I've posted about our issue.

If you have all this power and knowledge I think that's great, but do you want to try
to use that to impune someone who is trying to achieve the same thing ?

All I'm trying to do is get my STR to perform as implied by Stiegemeier, who made no
reference to additional modifications or effort to be performed. If I had all of your
knowledge, I never would have been asking questions would I ?

I'm trying to perform the necessary modifications that I can by myself and to give
information while doing so to encourage other owners to do so also instead of having
to pay inflated prices at Dealer shops.

 

@ speedofsound
Hi Rob; Glad to see you here and I'm glad to see that at least you don't
use your experience and knowledge to try to make less knowledgeable
folks who want to improve their performance, but don't have that much
experience, look like some dweeb. I guess some of these guys think they
were born with a piston in their pablum.

Seems to me that folks like Avos want to help novices get up to speed,
while others want to puff themselves up by showing their mechanic
stiffys. As for me, I thought I'd made it clear that I'm a novice just
trying to improve my STR's performance.

 

I get that from every post you've stated that you are disappointed that your car doesn't make 17 psi, as per Stiege.

That's what I said.

lol @ impune...I don't wish to punish anyone for trying to make power. I wish to help you and see you succeed. You were upset earlier in this post, because nobody agreed with you on bumping up the timing on your setup. I asked several questions regarding your setup to try to help you and you must not have known any of the answers. The deal is that you know enough to be dangerous and not enough to be helpful in analyzing a performance issue over the internet.

Rest at ease, sir. If you're the only Stiege'd STR ported car out there, you are THE most powerful Stiege'd STR out there. LOL

Seriously, if I were in your shoes, I would have asked about supporting mods well before diving headfirst into a ported blower setup. A better breathing intake setup, free-flowing exhaust, the capability to tune the setup in any aspect, etc., etc...

...and here we are...


Well, let's get you up to speed...

You check for vacuum/boost leaks?
What type of boost gauge are you using to monitor boost?
Any ability to datalog or alter timing or A/F yet?

 

Let's go back to the dyno results for a little bit....



With a stock air box, I'm not for sure what you'd see here. You need a K&N filter and possibly one of their FIPK (Fuel Injection Performance Kit) to get air to that ported/re-geared blower.

I'm almost hesitant to say this, but you didn't have stock boost numbers. With the re-geared blower, and no boost data how do you know what the boost levels are, versus what Stiege indicated they would be?

Quote:

The Dyno sheets are attached to this post, but fellows, I need some help

Before we get started with that, I'd like to once again mention that you're running a re-geared blower which means it's spinning faster, pulling more air. You have a coffee straw-like restriction in the factory airbox as well as the restrictive factory exhaust. think of an hourglass with two bottlenecks and the ported/re-geared blower sitting in the middle. The sand would go through one bottleneck (your airbox), enter the wide, open part (the blower), then exit through the next bottleneck (stock exhaust)

Your quest for power lies in opening up bottlenecks to increase airflow. Air in/Air out. Sweet simplicity.

OK here we go...

Quote:

First, I need to make several observations:

Check Engine Light still on? What did you use to check for codes? OBD2 Scanner at Autozone or what?

Quote:

2.

You can do it yourself (via the tuners, linked in your coolant line repair thread) with more dyno tuning or the use of a wideband air/fuel meter such as the ones from Innovate or Dynojet

Quote:

Do I need to make timing changes ?

Pull your spark plugs and look at the ground strap of each plug. You want a temper color change right in the middle of the ground strap for optimum timing. BUT...pull them immediately after a dyno pull or a WOT pass at the track. Do not drive back to the pits, down the return lane. You must immediately shut the car off as soon as you're through the lights and drag the car to the pits to check the plugs. Then and only then will you know if you need to change the timing.

Quote:

Any suggestions (from experience) would be appreciated.

Uh huh.

Quote:

I would have gotten this advice from Stegeimeier, but don’t think that will

Stiege's a very busy dude, I'm sure. Usually when people call for his porting services, they've got some supporting modifications that assist in his portwork. As he said in his first and last post...he thought you were initially going to work with him, not against him.



NOW....rest up, grab a protein shake and some creatine. Take this automotive workout and flex with glory...just as soon as the soreness goes away, of course.

 

Awesome of you to help ttwotees vettklr...and listening to educate myself for my eventual blower port/polish/pulley, etc.

 

so is there a dyno yet of this port/polish yet or what?

 

After reading this thread I'm sure as hell not gonna touch my supercharger, pulleys and/or anything related to same.

If I want something faster and/or with more style I'll bite the bullet and find an Aston Martin DB9 with a rag for a roof.

Jaysus leave the poor bitch alone...

 

Not trying to hijack but do you really believe a K&N panel is needed over a stock paper filter? Isn't the difference negligble? Not to mention the inferior filtration, and the possibility of the oil screwing with your sensors.

 

searanch, sorry dude, but you're friggin funny man! "Rag for a roof" LMAO! "jaysus leave the poor bitch alone". LOL!

 

@ VETTKLR
Allright Mr. Vettklr. You need to copy the post where I said I was
disappointed my car didn't procduce 17 psi and post it where we can all
see it ? I never said that !! I also never broached the subject of timing,
so where did you conjure that up from ? Better post that also.

I don't recall a single incident where you previously tried to give me
advice, but maybe I overlooked it. Maybe you'd better post that too. You
know what; You are not in my shoes and you don't have any business
deciding what I should or should not ask. Why don't you just BUTT OUT!

I posted the proof of what I claimed about Stiegemeier. That's all it takes.
Read the proof.

I have better things to do than banter with you, so I will not honor any
more of your intimidating remarks with a response and BTW you can keep
your advice to yourself. You may know a lot, but I don't need your kind of
advice, Killr !! (BS!)

 

@bfsgross

LOL, You're really funny man. I mean it