@Riski

I did post the dyno results, as poor as they were. I believe in being open even when the results won't make me look good. Read back a couple of
days.

 

@bfsgross
Help like Vettkilr's mixed with a good dose of know-it-all and sarcasm is not the way
most folks learn much. I've learned more from you than I ever would from this guy.

 

I have been following this post & have a couple of questions. Have you determined how much boost you have?? It is quite simple to check by tapping into a vacum line with a gauge. Have you figured out what the check engine light is ??? I have never seen a light with no code, I have seen a light with the scan tool saying unable to translate code. The best place to scan for codes is a Jaguar dealer who has an IDS. What is the outside temp??? That can have an effect on boost. In the winter with my water methanol injection on my Steigiemer ported blower with smaller upper pulley & larger lowe pulley has produced 22 psi. (at that point I turned the meth off). In the warm weather you will not see the same boost. I have noticed any comments regarding how the car runs, does it run any better. You should feel more low end acceleration with the boost coming on sooner & increased. Do you use premium fuel?? Did you disconnect the battery when you took off the supercharger?? It sounds like your car may have other driveability issues. I am sending Bob a supercharger from an 07 XKR on Tuesday & will ck the boost before it is removed. The car wi also getting a set of the Nameless free flow cats & an ECU reprogram. I already know this will be like night & day, having done this many times on Jaguars. You may want to consider doing a leak down test on your car to see if any damage was done by the leaking hose. I know for sure once you get the car sorted out you will be very pleased. You may also want to look into a water methanol injection system such as Snow. This will help to lower your IAT2. I can understand your frustration, but you need to just go forward. You will learn the hard way that NONE of the upgrades we do go smoothly. My last project which should have been 8 hrs turned into a 4 day project, but in the end they are all worth it. Good luck with your toy.

 

+1 for me.

I guess it depends on why you bought one of these cars. If you bought it to hot rod it then you better be ready for the amount of work involved. Especially if you're working in what for you is uncharted territory. Some people really like the challenge. Some one like JAXKR has a lot more experience hence the confidence that it will turn out well for him once he gets over the usual issues in any of these projects. That makes a lot less stressful. It was really great for him and others to chime in here.

When I was shopping for a used STR these are the sort of cars I ran away from. I just wanted a really nice appliance. It's fun to watch you guys experiment though!

 

I don't agree. I've spoken to the guys at Eurotoys and I believe that their work will lead to an increase in power. We'll see.

 

ttwotees, I feel your frustration. We're here to help each other. Unfortunately sometimes the help comes in different flavors. Set aside the manutia from the technical as a means of setting your "Snake Bite" correct. I'm probably not up to speed with the current events of your install but have four questions: Are you confident the install is "sound" in condition i.e. Perhaps there are undetected vaccum leaks, etc. Second: Did you replace the fuel filter? Third: Did the STR feel unusually hot (more than before "Snake Bite") before and during the dyno run? Fourth: Did you install a low temp thermostat? I've read there will be a change in dyno as the "Drum" variant may set off the DSC.

 

@bfsgross
Thanks.
1. I'm fairly confident of the install, but am having problems with a coolant leak again and I think my check engine light may be a vacuum leak.
2. I have not yet been able to replace the fuel filter, but it's on the agenda.
3. At normal conditions, I don't believe any more heat is produced than before, my temp gauge continued to maintain normal temp (middle).
4. I have not installed a low temp thermostat and will not until I have work done on my ECM.

 

@JAXKR

Thanks, encouraging posts help a lot, unlike some who just want to ridicule.

No on the boost determination. I'm looking into that.
I think the check engine light may be a vacuum leak. I used an Innova DTC code checker, but need to get a reading from a more comprehensive unit.
The car handles just like you said, more power at low end with boost earlier.
I do use 93 octane fuel.
We did not disconnect the battery when we did the exchange.

Thanks for your considerate and helpful remarks. I do appreciate that most forum
members are willing to try to be of useful assistance.

I'm having some other personal issues that are going to delay further work on this project for a few weeks.

 

TT do a hard battery reset(disconnect cables and hold them together for 10-30 seconds to drain capacitors in the control modules. This will make the Ecu and other modules relearn as they start off with factory default settings as originally programmed. does your scanner has short term fuel trim monitoring? If so this is the best way along with a can of brake clean to check for vacuum leaks. in short term fuel trim when you spray a vac leak youll see the short term fuel trim pull fuel(-fuel%) since youve induced fuel into the intake not seen or done by the ecu. But be prepared to see some minor changes at alot of areas cause it is very accurate way to isolate vacuum leaks. youre looking for the kinda bigger % pull of fuel say 5 up to 20% (20% is max amount the ecu can add or subtract)

 

@Brutal

Thanks that is extremely helpful advice. I will definitely do the battery reset.
No my code checker does not perform that function. It's very limited. Avos suggested
I need to go to a shop to have it checked.
I'm going to have to put my project aside for a few weeks unfortunately due to a
personal problem. Since you are in Sugarland, would you be willing to communicate
with me via e-mail ? If so, please send a private message.
Thanks again

 

Folks, I am experiencing a personal problem that will require that I put my project
on hold for at least a couple of weeks, but I definitely plan on continuing once I've
dealt with the issue.

I will be checking for vacuum leaks and any additional coolant problems and I am
researching several methods of reducing intercooler air temps. I will be doing
additional dyno tests on a Dynojet or other floor mounted friction type dyno to
avoid potential issues with the DSC (dynamic stability control) and I plan on
installing a boost gauge and a new fuel filter. I also will continue researching
ECM modifications. I know there are at least a few of you who have traveled
down this path long before me and I DO desire input from those of you who don't
relish making intimidating and snide inferences. Please check back often and I
will keep in touch during the interim.

 

ttwotees, wer'e standing by to hear and help you when you return.

 

Regarding, the BrakeCleen...I recently came across a safer method to search for vacuum leaks, using one of those little benzomatic propane torches. With the car running, crack open the propane valve and move the torch head around suspect areas that would create a vacuum leak. As you stated, a datalogger would show STFT's pulling fuel as well as the idling motor would rev as soon as the propane entered the vacuum leak, just like brake cleaner.

Using this process, you don't run the risk of having someone (no names need be mentioned here, I think LOL) spraying brake cleaner all over the engine bay until it finally ignites as soon as the exhaust warms up enough to flash. I believe it to be a safer process...your mileage may vary

 

Yes I do.

K&N offers a dynograph with their '03-04 Cobra FIPK's and it shows a 30hp gain from the stock filterbox and filter. Seeing as how an '03-04 Cobra mill and the STR are practically cousins, I wouldn't hesitate on putting an FIPK on an STR....if only there was an FIPK available.

It appears as though K&N doesn't offer an entire airbox replacement setup for the STR's, but they do offer a replacement panel filter...
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=33-2273


versus the OEM factory replacement...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1430957&parttype=6192&a =FRc1430957k1035842-3186555


With more pleats in the K&N filter, you've got more surface area for increased airflow. TT the air conditioner repairman could vouch for that.

The only instances of air filter oil getting onto sensors (mainly the MAFS), the problem always seems to be with over oiling the filter. Many people often coat the hell out of those filters, believing that more oil means the filter will work better...then they post up on forums, asking about why their car surges or dies when they just cleaned and re-oiled the K&N


I am indeed in favor of a K&N filter over OEM.

 

I contacted Minagallery about their intake setup for STRs.

http://www.minagallery.com/jagxp/Jag...N%20filter.htm

They didn't have any quantifiable HP data available, or even a picture of STR version, but they told me they are redesigning the product and will try to get pics and dyno info soon.

 

Personally I haven't noticed a single gain or advantage after putting in my K & N panel filter. If anything I've noticed a possible slight decrease in low end torque, may be just in my head though.

 

Thanks for the reply. I've got a K&N for the STR in the trunk but after seeing my shiny white clean OEM paper filter sitting innocently in the airbox I decided to leave it in for the time being. I believe an aftermarket intake as you stated could be superior, but I'm still iffy on just a plain old K&N panel filter swap being discernably superior.

And the inferior filtration does concern me.

I did read one post on this forum some time ago where a member stated they felt they lost power with Mina setup and went back to stock.

Try going back to stock to confirm (or debunk) your suspicions.

 

UHM. ONLY ISSUE VETTE, IS THATS A PIC OF THE POLLEN FILTERS NOT THE STOCK AIR FILTER(REFFERING TO THE LOWER 2 WHITE ONES, UNLESS THEY STARTED PUTTING CARBON IN THE AIRFILTERS TO MAKE THE ENGINE HAVE CLEANER SMELLING AIR )
NO ARGUEMENT ON K$N i HAVE THEM IN EVERY CAR, TRUCK, RACE CAR I OWN

 

That's what I get for blasting through Google, huh! LMAO!

I'll edit that link and pic to compare with the correct air filter...Nice catch, Brutal! thanks!

 

That's definitely on the right path for a nice flowing intake! When you're looking for airflow improvements on the intake, that pic is about as sweet and simple as it gets

Are you still running through the factory mufflers? The second day I had my '04 Cobra, I think I ordered a Magnaflow catback, an offroad MAC ProChamber with MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) Eliminators to fool the PCM that the catalytic converters were still in place, and a K&N FIPK. What goes in must go out, right? I wanted the airflow to enter and exit the motor as easily as possible. ...and damn did that setup sound goooood.

I hear ya! Hey man, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? If you're satisfied with the OEM filter, more power to you. There was a website that illustrated, through testing, the amount of silica the K&N let through it, versus OEM filters. It was pretty interesting stuff...can't find the one I'm thinking of...Google isn't being very nice today LOL. Anyway, the OEM vs. K&N debate will probably go on forever, but when modding a forced induction car, I believe one of the main ingredients is a air intake system that outperforms the stock stuff.