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To be honest guys, I've had that resonator on and off probably 30 times in the past years trying to solve the lean codes. It never occurred to me to inspect it or turn it over.
update......ok gang, this may be premature but I am more than mildly excited that joycesjag may have solved my years-long problem with the 0171 and 0174 !!!!
I duct taped the resonator hole and I siliconed around any joint in that area, started car and instantly saw iup to improvement in fuel trims. Before this "repair", my ltft's were pegged at +19 and stft's slightly positive as well. Upon sealing the hole with tape, all trims dropped back to near 0.
I then took it out for a quick stop and go around the immediate area and the trims continued to behave as they should and ltft's did not return to the habit of climbing at all. In fact, as I parked the car all trims remained near 0.
I AM ALMOST SPEECHLESS AFTER WHAT I'VE BEEN THRU WITH THIS CAR.
I know I still need to keep fingers crossed. Here is my catch-22.........I have an existing citation on the car for incomplete registration due to lack of smog. The car is prohibited from being on the road, BUT...the citation is a "correctable" offense, meaning, owner, fix the problem, have a peace officer sign off the correction and case settled....I CANNOT correct the violation unless I drive the car thru several cycles to achieve obd readiness and drive it to smog station for test.
If any Californians here, please chime in.....I plan on carrying the citation with me in the glove box while I drive the car to complete the monitors over the next few days and hopefully to the smog check station. If any cop pulls me over for expired tag while doing this, I hope that common sense prevails as I explain to him/her that I can not correct the violation without driving it.
And joycesjag...what can i say? no words for the gratitude of sticking with me on this one, and to all the rest of you as well.
You can go to DMV, or Auto Club pay the registration fees and obtain a temporary permit for thirty days. Attach the permit to your rear window (backlight) and you can drive the vehicle legally.
update on this......been a week or so since I sealed up the hole in the resonator with duct tape. I've been trying to get the readiness monitors to reset so I can smog by taking short drives once a day. The fuel trims are still behaving ok and no cel has illuminated. My torque reader shows me the cat monitor reset (ready) and everything else EXCEPT O2 sensor, evap. (comp won't reset until all of them have reset) In California, Jaguars are recognized by state that an inherent programming glitch prevents the comp monitor to reset if even one other monitor is incomplete, and because the SINGLE monitor that is permitted to be incomplete and still pass smog is EVAP, they make exception and will allow EVAP and COMP to be incomplete and pass smog. I know from experience and extensive research. This car passed smog 2 years ago with COMP and EVAP incomplete......BUT.....AT THE PRESENT TIME THE O2 SENSOR REFUSES TO COMPLETE EVEN THOUGH THE TRIMS ALL LOOK OK. I am told that this particular monitor can be stubborn andmay take quite a while to finally reset so I am trying to be patient. I am not clearing the incompletes and starting over. I am just waiting it out. Any ideas or suggestions to expedite the O2 sensor readiness will be appreciated. If I get that one green, I can smog this car.
As you already know, do not clear the codes. Just drive the car in as many different traffic conditions as you can - city stop-and-roll, highway cruising, etc. Good luck and keep us posted....
SMOGGED !!! REGISTRATION LEGAL !!!!
After years (literally) of fighting 0171 and 0174 on this 3.0 s type, it appears the issue has been resolved satisfactorily. This thread and others I started over past couple years on related topics should be placed in the Jag Forum hall of fame (or shame).
At the risk of leaving people out who have contributed to the final resolution , there are a few that I must mention with special thanks.
The issue of my 05 s type had virtually gone dormant, due to me giving up on it and garaging the car after buying a replacement. Out of nowhere, I get an email notification that Joycesjag has posted a possible solution if I was still working on it. I was not actively working on it at the time, but I did follow up on the post Joycesjag submitted, only to discover that my car did indeed have an identical flaw that another car he/she had worked on had. A hole in the air intake resonator. It was suggested that I locate a replacement resonator at a salvage yard or new. I conducted a search and could not find such a replacement. I thought to myself about simply covering the hole with duct tape, but I was afraid to mention to the forum that I was thinking about that, when Joycesjag posted "why dont you try duct taping the hole closed?" Done...I sealed the heck out of the hole with duct tape and after a few days of driving to reset the readiness monitors, this car PASSED A CALIFORNIA SMOG TEST!
One has to remember this battle has been months (years) ongoing. I have replaced imt o rings, plugs, coils, fuel injectors, upper and lower manifold gaskets, fuel filter, air filter, resealed fuel tank flange, maf, multiple smoke tests, o2 sensors, and more that I can't recall. I wonder how much of that expense and labor and banged knuckles I could have avoided if I had accidentally turned the resonator off and noticed the gaping hole in it. I never inspected it, not was it even a part that was ever mentioned by any other forum member until Joycesjag discovered it accidentally while working on another car. I wonder if the $$$$ I have spent could have been avoided if I had discovered that a $2 roll of duct tape would have solved the problem?? Oh well, it's done. Car fixed. Happily parked in garage as a spare car, and legal.
In addition to Joycesjag, I want to especially thank these others who have stuck with me on my threads trying to help...
Jagv8....KR....Norri....NB Cat....Jagbits
There have been other helpful people, but the above mentioned have been there the whole time.
Now, as KR suggested, I'm going to lock myself in a room with piped in Bieber.
Did you get the O2 sensors set?
You probably had to do that other stuff anyway!
yes on o2 sensors...funny, no matter how many times i drove the car, they would not reset. then I followed the 3rd gear 3000-4000 rpm procedure you sent me, and bam.....instantly green.
I am a boat guy and I have some fiberglass and resin, which I am thinking of sealing up that resonator hole with as a permanent fix. I think that fiberglass/resin will be stronger than the plastic itself.
BTW....keep an eye out for me on the "modern" XF section.....I bought an 09 for wife to replace the s type when I surrendered. That car is a whole new challenge. But running well at the moment and she loves it. Now I'm a 2 jags at a time owner.
Absolutely. When I discovered the hole in Jon89's former S Type, now Todd's new S Type resonator. Todd and I did the 100,000 mile maintance schedule. Todd purchased with about 106k on the clock. We did plugs, plenum, lower intake seals. checked IMT o-rings, "sealed all" purge canister, air filter, fuel filter and a new Denso MAF.
Todd's S Type still threw random 0171 and 0174 codes. We sprayed carb cleaner everywhere including the intake tube which is visible in one of the pictures posted. Engine never rev'd. I slightly brushed my left hand across the resonator and it did not sound correct almost a hollow sound. I felt under and low and behold. I would have never thought of looking at underside resonator either.
We sprayed carb cleaner everywhere including the intake tube which is visible in one of the pictures posted. Engine never rev'd.
From the Day Late and Dollar Short Department:
The engine RPM typically won't change on a fuel-injected vehicle when doing the spray trick. The computer will adjust fuel flow to maintain a steady RPM. You have to watch short-term fuel trims on a scanner to see the response.
Now on a carbureted engine, the spray trick will change the RPM. In both scenarios, the engine does respond to carb spray reaching a vacuum leak. The only difference is what actually changes.
With many brands today, the liquid cleaner and/or the aerosol propellant are non-flammable for safety. That's all fine and dandy, but won't really help for troubleshooting. I do not care to discuss how I learned this, but it's a good practice to purposely induce a small leak (such as pull a vacuum hose) and try the carb spray. If no response, you've got non-flammable stuff that won't help at all for finding a leak.
This is applicable to stone age and computer-controlled engines.
Another option is to use an unlit propane torch. Slip a length of flexible plastic hose over the torch nozzle. Obviously don't light the torch. Crack the valve open slightly and use the hose to direct the propane to the suspect area to be tested.
This is my first post/reply here. Understand this is a REALLY old thread but in case it helps someone else... Still in a bit of disbelief. Became an S Type owner when my Father in Law "sold" his '05 S Type to my 16 year old son for $50. The car and the boy are the same age.
Shortly thereafter came the CEL and the P0171, P0174 and Restricted Performance and my odyssey started. Happened to have a very old Actron OBD reader lying around from a previous automobile adventure. Joined this forum and started with the MAF sensor troubleshooting and the vacuum smoke testing and was about to start the spark plug and coil pack replacement when I stumbled onto this post. I've also had the air box out numerous times and never flipped it over. Well, see the attached pictures. Some Duct Tape work and Restricted Performance cleared. I then cleared the CEL and we will see what happens. Cannot believe my luck in finding this solution and wish to thank anyone related to the solution discovery who may read this.