STR bad shifting in 5th and 6th...
#1
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Im having problems with the transmission. When I drive the car with the shifter on "D" the car shift ok on all the first 4 gears. Then when shifting to 5 and 6 it makes a hard shift and hesitates (shifts and lets go).
Now if I select the 5th on the manual side is doesnt do it. Overall it works best if I just select "S" sport mode and keep it in 5th. In less I go on the highway I stay away from using the "D".
Is getting me frustrated and I've been told to check for codes, but my scanner doesnt pick any transmission codes. Maybe it is not the right scanner? I've read from somebody here before that there is a way to see the software used in the transmission and that an update sometimes is needed? Reflash?
Well Im just looking for some help. Please if you have any info dont hesitate to shine in. If it is an electrical failure related (sensor or software), I want to try to fix it. If is isnt then I guess a new transmission is needed.
Thanks,
JG
Now if I select the 5th on the manual side is doesnt do it. Overall it works best if I just select "S" sport mode and keep it in 5th. In less I go on the highway I stay away from using the "D".
Is getting me frustrated and I've been told to check for codes, but my scanner doesnt pick any transmission codes. Maybe it is not the right scanner? I've read from somebody here before that there is a way to see the software used in the transmission and that an update sometimes is needed? Reflash?
Well Im just looking for some help. Please if you have any info dont hesitate to shine in. If it is an electrical failure related (sensor or software), I want to try to fix it. If is isnt then I guess a new transmission is needed.
Thanks,
JG
#2
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Odds are it doesn't need a transmission. Since you are in the US I will say, believe it or not, to stay away from independent shops unless you are real sure they know what they are looking for...Many times they will just say..."It needs a transmission".... In all my years being very active on this board, I have yet to hear of a transmission replacement that was definitely needed. Some have been replaced...but really sounded like it was done unnecessarily.
The ZF is a super tough automatic. My guess is you either just need a service and reflash. The other thing that may be going on is the torque converter acts up on some of these. It seems to be the R's that have the issue, if at all. Some get it, others never, it really is hit and miss.
It is probably wise, if you don't service your car on your own to hook up with a good local dealer service department. Let them scan the car and road test it with you ( I would do that after a trans service). They may be better able to tell you if you have a torque converter issue.
The ZF is a super tough automatic. My guess is you either just need a service and reflash. The other thing that may be going on is the torque converter acts up on some of these. It seems to be the R's that have the issue, if at all. Some get it, others never, it really is hit and miss.
It is probably wise, if you don't service your car on your own to hook up with a good local dealer service department. Let them scan the car and road test it with you ( I would do that after a trans service). They may be better able to tell you if you have a torque converter issue.
#3
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I pretty much agree.
The ZF is tough and good, but does have several issues.
Maybe a reflash will fix it. You'll want a competent jag tech to do it, preferably using IDS (their diag kit) and doing the full thing: they clear the ZF adaptions (try Search on here to read more), then reflash both TCM & PCM, then drive with IDS attached and readapt (which means the box relearns very fine timings for its internal clutches/solenoids). If you do this, the wise next step is (a bit arguably) to drive it nicely for the next 200 miles and not to use Sport in those miles.
A not common but real possibility is that you have a TC (torque convertor) issue but it doesn't sound too much like it.
You don't sound, from a brief post, to have a common issue at all. It doesn't sound to me to be likely yet to throw codes but do you want to leave it clearly a bit unhappy and wait? (I wouldn't.)
But... I would be very tempted FIRST to get a jag tech to properly check the fluid level - which is fairly simple but very easily done wrong! Look in the FAQs to learn more. It's really critical it has the right fill level and it must be checked in a specific temperature range.
You might consider a fluid change but read up on here because it's not especially cheap (much cheaper than it was).
How many miles on the car?
The ZF is tough and good, but does have several issues.
Maybe a reflash will fix it. You'll want a competent jag tech to do it, preferably using IDS (their diag kit) and doing the full thing: they clear the ZF adaptions (try Search on here to read more), then reflash both TCM & PCM, then drive with IDS attached and readapt (which means the box relearns very fine timings for its internal clutches/solenoids). If you do this, the wise next step is (a bit arguably) to drive it nicely for the next 200 miles and not to use Sport in those miles.
A not common but real possibility is that you have a TC (torque convertor) issue but it doesn't sound too much like it.
You don't sound, from a brief post, to have a common issue at all. It doesn't sound to me to be likely yet to throw codes but do you want to leave it clearly a bit unhappy and wait? (I wouldn't.)
But... I would be very tempted FIRST to get a jag tech to properly check the fluid level - which is fairly simple but very easily done wrong! Look in the FAQs to learn more. It's really critical it has the right fill level and it must be checked in a specific temperature range.
You might consider a fluid change but read up on here because it's not especially cheap (much cheaper than it was).
How many miles on the car?
Last edited by JagV8; 03-24-2012 at 06:26 AM.
#4
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Ok, Thank you guys very good information.
Well, I drove the car and I hear the engine rev higher than the car was moving. I took off and the car RPMs moved but the car didnt... I cant remember if it did it from the dead start or was it form 1st to 2nd??
I quoted a torque converter is $450... But I want to make sure it is the issue before buying it.
JG
Well, I drove the car and I hear the engine rev higher than the car was moving. I took off and the car RPMs moved but the car didnt... I cant remember if it did it from the dead start or was it form 1st to 2nd??
I quoted a torque converter is $450... But I want to make sure it is the issue before buying it.
JG
#5
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I'd say it's nowhere near time to buy a TC.
An auto normally makes use of the TC (unlocked) when setting off and at lowish speeds. Some can lock the TC (using TC clutch) - the ZF says it can do this in all gears (may be forward only). With care and passenger / empty road you can accelerate not too hard and see revs climb then drop as the TC locks in each gear. (Well, you may not see it for 1st etc as you're through them so quickly.)
Much easier to use diagnostic kit such as IDS I expect.
An auto normally makes use of the TC (unlocked) when setting off and at lowish speeds. Some can lock the TC (using TC clutch) - the ZF says it can do this in all gears (may be forward only). With care and passenger / empty road you can accelerate not too hard and see revs climb then drop as the TC locks in each gear. (Well, you may not see it for 1st etc as you're through them so quickly.)
Much easier to use diagnostic kit such as IDS I expect.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok, Thank you guys very good information.
Well, I drove the car and I hear the engine rev higher than the car was moving. I took off and the car RPMs moved but the car didnt... I cant remember if it did it from the dead start or was it form 1st to 2nd??
I quoted a torque converter is $450... But I want to make sure it is the issue before buying it.
JG
Well, I drove the car and I hear the engine rev higher than the car was moving. I took off and the car RPMs moved but the car didnt... I cant remember if it did it from the dead start or was it form 1st to 2nd??
I quoted a torque converter is $450... But I want to make sure it is the issue before buying it.
JG
You can rebuild the TC but you better make sure they use the right sufacing and be sure that whoever does the work uses the Jaguar front seal and not the generic one.
This advice is worth exactly what ya paid for it...
#7
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Okay, here it is a unique update, I've been driving the car rather slow and easy for a wheek or so. The car is actually shifting perfect. No hard shifts and overall very smooth all around. The only thing I've felt odd is the fact that the rpms climb a bit higher than normal before shift happend.
There you have it, more clues and food for thoughts... Thanks everyone involved in this thread. Figuring out this problem.
There you have it, more clues and food for thoughts... Thanks everyone involved in this thread. Figuring out this problem.
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#8
#9
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Okay, here it is a unique update, I've been driving the car rather slow and easy for a wheek or so. The car is actually shifting perfect. No hard shifts and overall very smooth all around. The only thing I've felt odd is the fact that the rpms climb a bit higher than normal before shift happend.
There you have it, more clues and food for thoughts... Thanks everyone involved in this thread. Figuring out this problem.
There you have it, more clues and food for thoughts... Thanks everyone involved in this thread. Figuring out this problem.
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