Strange rough Idle when cold
#1
Strange rough Idle when cold
Hi folks,
as some of you know I got a 00 SType 3.0 not too long ago. Well after a long road trip and 3000 km's on it, I am really enjoying it(the very few times my fiancee lets me drive it).
However, she mentioned to me that she is experiencing a rough idle when the car is cold.
Basically, when first start driving the car, when you come to a stop, the idle hunts and you feel a rough running through the cabin. About 5-10 minutes of normal driving the car goes back to 100%.
There is no performance drop whatsoever and the car runs like a bat out of hell.
Any thoughts?
Car has brand new coils and spark plugs. Could an O2 senor cause that?
as some of you know I got a 00 SType 3.0 not too long ago. Well after a long road trip and 3000 km's on it, I am really enjoying it(the very few times my fiancee lets me drive it).
However, she mentioned to me that she is experiencing a rough idle when the car is cold.
Basically, when first start driving the car, when you come to a stop, the idle hunts and you feel a rough running through the cabin. About 5-10 minutes of normal driving the car goes back to 100%.
There is no performance drop whatsoever and the car runs like a bat out of hell.
Any thoughts?
Car has brand new coils and spark plugs. Could an O2 senor cause that?
#2
It's possible that it's an O2 sensor but have a look at the threads about the PCV hose elbow - I think one's in the FAQs.
What you describe is usually an air leak which is why it's most apparent at idle.
You'd need an OBD tool to monitor fuel trims to confirm either an air leak or an O2 sensor. Such as an elm327 (USB is cheap, from ebay).
What you describe is usually an air leak which is why it's most apparent at idle.
You'd need an OBD tool to monitor fuel trims to confirm either an air leak or an O2 sensor. Such as an elm327 (USB is cheap, from ebay).
#6
#7
IMT = Intake Manifold Tuner Valve
It is a must to replace the original yellow-colored factory IMT O-rings (there are two, one for each valve) with the newer, thicker, rounder, and far better-sealing green-colored IMT O-rings. Dealer-only item, but should be less than $3 apiece. Sooner or later, the factory O-rings leak and cause various problems including misfires. Do yourself a favor and replace those O-rings as soon as you can. Search here for Rick's post entitled something like "IMT O-Ring replacement - Short Route". Using the short route, you can replace the O-rings without having to remove the intake manifold. Definitely the way to go....
It is a must to replace the original yellow-colored factory IMT O-rings (there are two, one for each valve) with the newer, thicker, rounder, and far better-sealing green-colored IMT O-rings. Dealer-only item, but should be less than $3 apiece. Sooner or later, the factory O-rings leak and cause various problems including misfires. Do yourself a favor and replace those O-rings as soon as you can. Search here for Rick's post entitled something like "IMT O-Ring replacement - Short Route". Using the short route, you can replace the O-rings without having to remove the intake manifold. Definitely the way to go....
Trending Topics
#9
bmw, your IMTs are on the intake manifold but not in the same place as this link: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-32135/
#10
Don't run your petrol car with an ignition or mixture control problem for long -- the catalyzers don't like it. When they tell you how much they cost to replace, you'll know all about that sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach.
Leedsman.
Quote "Secondly, can I just keep running it like this, or will it eventually get to the point where the car will be undriveable".
Leedsman.
Quote "Secondly, can I just keep running it like this, or will it eventually get to the point where the car will be undriveable".
#11
#12
No they are on the intake manifold, again see post #9
#15
#18
#19
Hey guys, I am about to order the "rubbers" and I got thinking if there is anything else that my mechanic should replace (vacuum line?) while he is working on the intake manifold?
Part numbers? Don't want to have him put everything together only to have the car still do the same thing.
EDIT! I found the part code for the little L shaped vacuum hose. !!
EDIT 2! If I just had the intake manifold gaskets replaced when the plugs/coils were done, do I need to replace them again or can I reuse the ones that were just put on 2000km;s ago?
Part numbers? Don't want to have him put everything together only to have the car still do the same thing.
EDIT! I found the part code for the little L shaped vacuum hose. !!
EDIT 2! If I just had the intake manifold gaskets replaced when the plugs/coils were done, do I need to replace them again or can I reuse the ones that were just put on 2000km;s ago?
Last edited by Bmwm5lover; 07-08-2011 at 04:02 PM.
#20
Hey guys, I am about to order the "rubbers" and I got thinking if there is anything else that my mechanic should replace (vacuum line?) while he is working on the intake manifold?
Part numbers? Don't want to have him put everything together only to have the car still do the same thing.
EDIT! I found the part code for the little L shaped vacuum hose. !!
EDIT 2! If I just had the intake manifold gaskets replaced when the plugs/coils were done, do I need to replace them again or can I reuse the ones that were just put on 2000km;s ago?
Part numbers? Don't want to have him put everything together only to have the car still do the same thing.
EDIT! I found the part code for the little L shaped vacuum hose. !!
EDIT 2! If I just had the intake manifold gaskets replaced when the plugs/coils were done, do I need to replace them again or can I reuse the ones that were just put on 2000km;s ago?
Anyone can help with EDIT 2? I want to go ahead and order the parts this weekend.
I've already ordered the L Vacuum line from the ford dealer!