Hello Jaguar forums

I have a 2006 STR and am in need of the supercharger removal. I am having a big issue with the two 13mm nuts that hold the egr onto the exhaust manifold. From the photo below, you can see I got one off and the other one is intensely stripped. I have tried hammering 13mm strip sockets on and even sizing down only to keep braking away at the nut.

My question is, does the actual long bolt that the nut is attached to come out? If it does, I think my next step is to weld a new nut to the long bolt. Any advice will be highly appreciated. Thanks.

EGR image here

-Nick

 

yes the stud is removable . but judging by the corrosion i don't like your chances .
you can buy a tool called a stud remover . they have rollers and some times strip's of metal that tighten on the rounded surface as you turn it .
you can get one that will fit over the nut . that should work . you could also heat it to break the rust to assist you efforts .

 

I agree that the next step could well be welding a nut on the stud.
If you work fast the heat from welding may well help getting the stud out, but the chances are it will snap off and you will end up having to remove the broken stud.

Good luck with this, and do keep us informed..

Mellow

 

Thank you both for the replies. I think I'm going to try the weld nut first and if that breaks I can try the last resort of getting a stud extractor.

 

Can you get to it with a dremel and split the nut

 

I don't believe so as the room behind the engine where it's located is extremely limited.

 

Can you remove the valve and manifold as a unit and then take them to your workbench? From my experience, whenever remotely feasible, that’s the way to go when dealing with seized fasteners.

 

I am not sure if I can. I would almost prefer that route. If anyone can weigh in on here if removing the exhaust manifold with the EGR pipe is doable. I can get under the car and disconnect the cat. But not sure where to go from there.

 

Whatever you try on those studs, there's a very good chance at least one will snap. Please resist the impulse to try a screw extractor on the remaining stub.

My thoughts on screw extractors:

Put your screw extractors in a lockable metal box. Put the key on a string and suspend it into the middle of a gallon milk jug filled with water. Put the jug in the freezer and leave it there. Any time you are considering using a screw extractor, it will take at least an hour to melt the ice and retrieve the key. This will give you plenty of time to determine if you should be using a screw extractor for the problem at hand.

I don't mean to be adding insult to injury, but screw extractors are only appropriate for removing a free-running fastener, such as one that broke during installation. If a fastener was seized bad enough to round off the head, you won't be able to apply enough torque with a screw extractor. You'll end up with a broken screw extractor in the seized piece. Don't go from bad to worse.

If the shank does not easily unthread, please re-read my previous comments about screw extractors. This is SO important, I'll repeat myself, with caps and italics and all sorts of gimmicks to get your attention:

SCREW EXTRACTORS ARE ONLY APPROPRIATE FOR REMOVING FREE-RUNNING FASTENERS.

A screw extractor can only apply a limited amount of torque before snapping off. If more torque is needed than a screw extractor can apply, STOP! I cannot express strongly enough how much of a nightmare you will create by breaking one off. You'd be much better off to just drill out the broken bolt and rethread the hole, versus trying to drill out the remnant of an ultra-hardened screw extractor. I do not care to discuss how I learned this...

 

A screw extractor and drilling was never discussed so I'm not sure what you are reading. I think what I'm going to end up doing is weld a new bolt on and heating the old bolt ahead of time to possibly break the rust seal then aim to the entire stud.

 

i'm very sorry Karl , normally i would wholeheartedly agree with all you have to say .
but this post is just a load of crap .
i don't know what a screw remover is . i said stud remover and they work awesome .
if you use a stud remover on the rounded nut you at least have a chance to save the stud .
if you weld a nut to the stud you have recked the stud just like that .
welding to the nut will be difficult at best .
i still say heat the nut and use a stud remover that best fits the nut before welding anything .

 

this is a stud remover . i'm guessing it must be different to a screw extractor ?

 

I have looked into that type of stud remover tool. But they seem to have a lot of mixed reviews on not working. This one here looks like the best design but the reason I haven't purchased this one is I don't believe it will fit. It's a pretty fat tool and the stud is pretty close to the egr tube itself.

 

Agreed, you hadn't mentioned screw extractors yet. I was trying to head you off at the pass before the next likely happening.

Picture this scenario: You've been trying to get the EGR tube loose for hours, and getting more and more frustrated. You manage to get a stud extractor in there, a specialized tool that grips the outside of the protruding stud. The tool gets a good bite and you apply some torque, in hopes of unthreading the seized stud. All of a sudden, SNAP! The stud breaks off flush with the manifold surface, or typically slightly below. Panic time! What to do?

Do you have enough room to weld a nut on there? Or maybe you're planning to weld a nut onto the intact stud. If you don't want to weld in there, you can probably thread two nuts on there and jam them together for a wrench to grip. But no matter how you try to unthread that stud, there's still a very high likelihood of it breaking off when you apply torque. I would be very surprised if you can get that stud removed in one piece.

It's late at night and nobody is active on the forum. (The Yanks are asleep, the Brits are on tea break, and the Aussies are in the back of a paddy wagon.) Let's ask the Google? It's a fount of great advice! [/Sarcasm mode off]

For example, if you search for "how to remove a broken fastener", you might come across this handy video. He's got a nice accent, so he must know what he's talking about:



Note in his test examples, they are all free-running fasteners. None are seized in place. This little difference is VERY important.

At 5:50 in the video, he shows how to use a screw extractor. These do NOT grip the outside like a stud extractor. First, you drill into the center of the broken shank, and then the extractor grips the edges of this new hole. Here's what a screw extractor looks like. There are many types, but all work by gripping the inside of a hole drilled into the broken shank.




It looks so easy in the video! He just drilled a hole, inserted the screw extractor, and voila, the broken piece spun out so easily! What could possibly go wrong?

That's why I included my warning about the pitfalls of using screw extractors. A screw extractor is made from very hard material, typically harder than a drill bit. Hard = brittle. If the broken fastener requires any substantial torque for removal, you can almost guarantee the screw extractor will break before the fastener budges. Now you are left with a piece of hardened metal jammed in the end of the broken shank. You'd have been much better off to have just carefully drilled out the broken shank and retapped the hole, using a Heli-Coil repair if needed.

That's why I stressed how screw extractors are only appropriate for removing broken fasteners that only require light torque to spin. A rusted, seized fastener? A screw extractor is just asking for trouble.

Does that make any sense? I was using my amazing psychic powers to answer a question you hadn't answered yet. So much for late night surfing...

 

You could pull the right wheel and inner liner and have a look at the manifold for possible removal just in case you do that route....

 

I might look into the manifold route. Before doing that I will probably attempt the stud extractor route.

 

I agree ......good luck

 

Any progress? Previously mentioned in passing, here's a good video explaining how to turn a stud by locking two nuts together:




The only difference I'd suggest is to use a box end wrench instead of an open end, as shown. This lets you get a much stronger grip on the nut. Once you thread the second nut in place, it basically traps the box end wrench in place (unless the flats line up), so be careful about that.

 

Haven't had time. Busy at work mon-friday. I have seen that 2 bolt trick in the past and thought about that route. Planning on experimenting this weekend.