Stype 5R55N Valve Spring replacement
#1
Stype 5R55N Valve Spring replacement
I have the 5R55N Transmission in my Jaguar Stype 2000 4.0 L, auto trans. Appears the 4-3 Prestroke Spring in the Valve body may be broken and requires replacing.
Does the valve body have to come off to replace this spring or can you do it with the valve body still attached ?
Any details are appreciated on the install/replacement of this spring.
Also what is the right method/procedure to refill the transmission fluid. I heard some challenges on where/how to refill it exactly.
Thanks
Does the valve body have to come off to replace this spring or can you do it with the valve body still attached ?
Any details are appreciated on the install/replacement of this spring.
Also what is the right method/procedure to refill the transmission fluid. I heard some challenges on where/how to refill it exactly.
Thanks
#2
Yes. Take look at this link. A nice diagram of what is replaced!!
http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.php?id=3812&pl=3
The thing to understand about checking or changing fluid is the car has no dipstick. So the transmission drain plug has a center plug that must be removed. You add transmission fluid from a port higher up on the transmission case until fluid drips out of this opening. The fill port is a pipe plug screwed into the transmission case in the rear. The inner plug has a short piece of tubing attached to it sticking straight up into the pan. When the fluid rises to the top of this tube the transmission is full. The MOST important thing is the car and transmission pan must be perfectly level!! The transmission and fluid must be up to operating temperature. The other difficult thing is the fill port on the transmission is close to the exhaust which will be hot from warming up the transmission fluid.
So a home guy can do this but it's a pain in the butt!!
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http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.php?id=3812&pl=3
The thing to understand about checking or changing fluid is the car has no dipstick. So the transmission drain plug has a center plug that must be removed. You add transmission fluid from a port higher up on the transmission case until fluid drips out of this opening. The fill port is a pipe plug screwed into the transmission case in the rear. The inner plug has a short piece of tubing attached to it sticking straight up into the pan. When the fluid rises to the top of this tube the transmission is full. The MOST important thing is the car and transmission pan must be perfectly level!! The transmission and fluid must be up to operating temperature. The other difficult thing is the fill port on the transmission is close to the exhaust which will be hot from warming up the transmission fluid.
So a home guy can do this but it's a pain in the butt!!
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#3
Filling AT fluid
Thank you for your thoughts. Just a couple of points for clarity.
You indicated the transmission and fluid must be up to operating temperature when filling.
Hence does that mean, do all the work on the AT, then when ready to put in AT fluid, turn on the car so that the vehicle is at a operating temperature ? Is the fluid supposed to be heated to the operating temperature as well before putting into the AT ? So how is one supposed to get the AT fluid to the operating temperature before putting into the Trans ?
Sorry might be obvious but I was not sure.
Thanks again
You indicated the transmission and fluid must be up to operating temperature when filling.
Hence does that mean, do all the work on the AT, then when ready to put in AT fluid, turn on the car so that the vehicle is at a operating temperature ? Is the fluid supposed to be heated to the operating temperature as well before putting into the AT ? So how is one supposed to get the AT fluid to the operating temperature before putting into the Trans ?
Sorry might be obvious but I was not sure.
Thanks again
#4
You're going to let some run out so put as much in as you can, cold should do. Once it's warm and you've otherwise followed the instructions that should be it. (So it seems to me.) You would never want to run the tranny with a shortage so you have to get in as much as you reasonably can (subject to the above procedure).
#5
Apervaiz,
WHen you drain the Mercon V ATF, collect and measure how much drained out. Then after repairing the valve body and putting the pan back on, pump in the the same amount of ATF in through the fill hole on the rear of the transmission. Then you can safey drive it to get it up to operating temperature. Then do the ATF level fill/drain procedure. Good luck!
VMV
WHen you drain the Mercon V ATF, collect and measure how much drained out. Then after repairing the valve body and putting the pan back on, pump in the the same amount of ATF in through the fill hole on the rear of the transmission. Then you can safey drive it to get it up to operating temperature. Then do the ATF level fill/drain procedure. Good luck!
VMV
Last edited by VMV; 08-20-2009 at 12:31 PM. Reason: poor grammar, misspelling
#6
Yes, very good comments. Just do your repair. Put everything back together. Check the fluid level and get it close when everything is cold. Drive the car to get the transmission and oil up to operating temperature. Then get the car level and jacked up where you can get underneath. Then remove the inner plug of the transmission drain plug and check if any fluid drips out. According to the shop manual as long as a few drops come out it's OK. If more comes out just let it go until the flow stops. Again you will now have the correct level. If nothing comes out then remove the plug higher up on the transmission case and add fluid until it starts draining out the bottom fill plug. The fluid you add does NOT need to be operating temperature.
Finally be careful about just replacing the amount of fluid that drained out. You might not have the correct amount. Always at the end pull the inner drain plug to check. Maybe you were running a bit low or high before your repair. With this complicated fluid checking procedure many people/shops get it wrong. I have heard on other forums of people filling the transmission until fluid is coming out the fill port high up on the transmission case. When the guy finally got it all correct he estimated the transmission had between 3 and 4 quarts too much fluid!!!
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Finally be careful about just replacing the amount of fluid that drained out. You might not have the correct amount. Always at the end pull the inner drain plug to check. Maybe you were running a bit low or high before your repair. With this complicated fluid checking procedure many people/shops get it wrong. I have heard on other forums of people filling the transmission until fluid is coming out the fill port high up on the transmission case. When the guy finally got it all correct he estimated the transmission had between 3 and 4 quarts too much fluid!!!
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#7
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#9
Yes tbird6, I see the picture, but in this "illustration" only show the parts. My question is: When I remove this solenoid body, I found any spring, gasket, o rings between the transmission and the solenoid body? (like Honda, Nissan, Toyota, etc...)
What parts it's necessary replace when I change this spring??
What parts it's necessary replace when I change this spring??
#10
#11
I replaced that spring and the other springs listed by Sonax - see above post. In fact, I still have another set of the other 5 (6?) springs from Sonax.
You need to remove the following
Pan and internal filter (obviously)
Remove pressure sensor
Remove solenoid body - need to remove electrical connector that plugs in from above and that is secured with a bolt - difficult to get to with a wrench while the transmission is in the car, but possible - I managed to do it.
Remove valvebody pressure plate - need to get a new gasket for that - get it from Jaguar or Ford/Lincoln.
Remove valvebody - optional to replace separator plate with integral gasket - mine looked fine and reusable, but I had already had a replacement separator plate/gasket so I used the new one.
Points to watch out:
some of the plugs for the valve body springs are difficult to remove - especially those secured with the L-shaped hooks as those get hammered and deformed during operation from the constant movement of the springs/pistons.
The W-clip secured plugs are relatively easy to remove.
Don't turn the valve body upside down - or you'll be looking for a while where each check ball and other parts came from (and went...).
When reconnecting the solenoid block connector on the outside of the transmission, make sure that it's properly plugged in and that the bolt that you need to retighten has engaged the threads in the solenoid block - if this connector is not properly plugged in you'll see a ton of error codes - Solenoid A, B, C failure, etc. etc.
Also, I'd recommend installing the Transgo SK-5R55W (covers 5R55N/S/W transmissions) - it adds a mechanical pressure safety relief for the Electronic Pressure Control - many transmissions have been destroyed by the PCM (computer) forcing them to max pressure (or by a sticking pressure control solenoid) -> this can ramp internal control pressures beyond design limits (for transmission operation, but also parts breakage).
Christian
You need to remove the following
Pan and internal filter (obviously)
Remove pressure sensor
Remove solenoid body - need to remove electrical connector that plugs in from above and that is secured with a bolt - difficult to get to with a wrench while the transmission is in the car, but possible - I managed to do it.
Remove valvebody pressure plate - need to get a new gasket for that - get it from Jaguar or Ford/Lincoln.
Remove valvebody - optional to replace separator plate with integral gasket - mine looked fine and reusable, but I had already had a replacement separator plate/gasket so I used the new one.
Points to watch out:
some of the plugs for the valve body springs are difficult to remove - especially those secured with the L-shaped hooks as those get hammered and deformed during operation from the constant movement of the springs/pistons.
The W-clip secured plugs are relatively easy to remove.
Don't turn the valve body upside down - or you'll be looking for a while where each check ball and other parts came from (and went...).
When reconnecting the solenoid block connector on the outside of the transmission, make sure that it's properly plugged in and that the bolt that you need to retighten has engaged the threads in the solenoid block - if this connector is not properly plugged in you'll see a ton of error codes - Solenoid A, B, C failure, etc. etc.
Also, I'd recommend installing the Transgo SK-5R55W (covers 5R55N/S/W transmissions) - it adds a mechanical pressure safety relief for the Electronic Pressure Control - many transmissions have been destroyed by the PCM (computer) forcing them to max pressure (or by a sticking pressure control solenoid) -> this can ramp internal control pressures beyond design limits (for transmission operation, but also parts breakage).
Christian
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SPECTOIL (11-22-2010)
#14
#16
Springs that should be replaced when valve body is removed - these are known to weaken, or break
http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/56947J-S2-IN.pdf
Shift kit for 5R55N (and 5R55W and 5R55S)
http://www.transgo.com/sk_ford.php
http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/56947J-S2-IN.pdf
Shift kit for 5R55N (and 5R55W and 5R55S)
http://www.transgo.com/sk_ford.php
The following users liked this post:
SPECTOIL (11-24-2010)
#17
Hi to all,
Good news, I replace the spring and now the car is working good. Waoo the solenoid body electrical connector is verrryyyy hard to pull out, but possible!!! I take pictures for all process and try to make a video with a simple steps with pictures for helping others in this forums!!! (Repairable with $5 dollar spring jeje!!!)
Only one problem, is impossible put out the transmission fluid level plug.
What happen if I run the car using more Oil ? / Less Oil ?
Other idea to measure if the transmission contain the correct level?
Regards,
Good news, I replace the spring and now the car is working good. Waoo the solenoid body electrical connector is verrryyyy hard to pull out, but possible!!! I take pictures for all process and try to make a video with a simple steps with pictures for helping others in this forums!!! (Repairable with $5 dollar spring jeje!!!)
Only one problem, is impossible put out the transmission fluid level plug.
What happen if I run the car using more Oil ? / Less Oil ?
Other idea to measure if the transmission contain the correct level?
Regards,
#19
#20