I have C2C 11477 as "water outlet seal", 2 needed, and part of the kit of parts needed for fixing the hose under the SC. I kinda doubt it's to do with the thermostat, but if not there then I don't know exactly where they do go.

 

theyre the seal that go on the ends of the crossover pipe where it bolts to the heads

 

Brutal:
You are correct as usual!! I have seen this type of connection on other cars and it's always an O-ring. Does the picture look like the seal needed for the cross over pipe to the heads??
Thanks!
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That's exactly what my new ones look like, but they fit into the piece like that, but
after a period of time, they come out looking similar to O rings. That's the correct
part and yes, it takes two. I had to order a second one.

 

Another amazing series of posts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks All.

04 STR

 

Talked to Bob Stiegemeier. First, they would like someone who owns an
STR to come to their shop so they can review the bone stock condition.
He says the first thing I should do after re-installing the Snake Bite kit
is to pull a spark plug and call him with what type plug it is and he will
recommend a different plug to compensate for the new power.

Secondly and before attempting to try out the power with wide open
throttle (W.O.T.), take it to a dyno shop and get all the air/fuel data
power, torque, fuel pressure, etc. you can to feed him so he can
recommend adjustments.

Thirdly; Since nobody makes an adjustable tuner for our STRs, we may
want to find an adjustable fuel regulator to install so we can adjust
the fuel pressure to match the supercharger at W.O.T.

Bob thinks the idea of spraying the supercharger coolant radiator with
Nitrous to cool down the air charge is a great idea, but only for W.O.T.
runs, otherwise it would be too cool for normal operation

If anyone can tell me what the blower pressure is at bone stock it would
be a big help in making these adjustments. Also, what is the stock lower
pulley size and the stock fuel pressure & fuel injector size ?

Can you techies help with this ?

 

you cannot bump the pressure on the str, or other "returnless" fuel systems with a regulator. the pumps are pulse width modulated to give the programmed fuel pressure and is read by the ecu from the fuel injection pressure sensor on the fuel rails assembly. The person thats gonna be the best source on some of this info is gonna be Avos.
also the ecu is capable of adding up 20% more fuel to maintain afr's and the injectors will flow to match. doing these mods is not gonna overtax the system. contact eurotoys on ecu programming as another source.
http://eurotoysltd.com/catalog/produ...2884da1c4fc40e

 

What Brutal says

Make sure you don't have any restrictions (change fuel filter, if not done yet, and so on).

Plugs are iridium, I think OE are Denso but may be NGK (heck, both make good plugs). I think they change with the MY. I think the 2003/4 are Denso SK16PR-A11 IK16. Later ones may be NGK1R1FR5N10. Please don't rely on those part numbers, they're just the best I have apart from Jag's own.

 

Stock Supercharger Pressure is suppose to be 13.1 lb/in*in. But I still think Jaguar bleeds maximum pressure using the Bypass valve. I like that Stiegemeier gives you instructions on adjusting the bypass. I would like to measure the blower output to see what it really is stock!
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.

 

"Talked to Bob Stiegemeier. First, they would like someone who owns an
STR to come to their shop so they can review the bone stock condition."

At least he is honest now in some way, but how could he have made all the comments before in telling people they get at least 70 whp more?

You need to understand the car and all the details before you could know what sort of an effect a certain change has, and even then... Good start for him would indeed be to have a car in the first place. Sorry, I just have difficulties with companies that sell expectations instead of true substance (though I admit to be weak enough for good marketing ;-), anyhow we will soon know what it brings, and don’t get me wrong, it would be great if you get good power out of it.


iirc the stock pulley is about 6.2" and the upper 2.93" or so. I can't remember the stock boost in this combo but think it would rather be similar to the 4.0 SC engine so about 11.6 psi. The larger lower pulley compensates the larger engine displacement.

There is no bypass control by the ECU (other than the vacuum control that opens/closes the valve)! So you get the pressure that the SC can build up, period. The bypass could slightly leak (could be adjusted but not too much), so check it yourself (bit difficult when the intake is on the car, but doable if you take of the supercharger oulet, then you can put a tube on it and blow some air in, then you will know if/how much it leaks).


You could consider changing the plugs by going 1 heat range colder, I do this at least for the TS setups (If iridium, I would prefer the NGK above the Denso).


I agree with Brutal. You can't control the fuel pressure, this is already done so by the ECU which controls the pump as explained, and the ECU also takes the extra boost into consideration (actual fuel pressure = ideal fuel pressure + actual boost pressure).

There is plenty of fuel reserve, however it will depend on how much you drive the eaton faster. Do you already know how much what the gearing is?


There are adjustable tuning boxes available, for instance the dastec ones. That will then give you the control to change ignition timing and fueling. Here is one company that delivered these:
http://www.tdi-plc.com/
The other one iirc:
http://www.noblemotorsport.com/
I’ll bet you can find something in the US.
These type of tuning boxes may not be ideal, but they do give some easy control for any tuner around as not everyone is able to tune the denso ECU.
However in the UK there are plenty of tuners that should have seen many different pulley combos, so if everything is working as it should (and there I mean all components from the MAF to the injectors and o2s) you could go for a distant (safe) tune. You must however ensure that all is working well (within normal margins),but you need a OBDII meter and someone that can help you to check the values (though am sure the forum can help for most).
PS What did you think about the comments in the other thread for optimizing the intake (the box and the vanes in the intake?)

 

I have talked to Bob S., but about my super charged Nissan, not Jagaur, other than to mention some of our topics here and that I work as a tech so he didnt think I was a internet moron. His comments are really general and stayed within the "realm" of whats possible, (does not meen actual) Youre not gonna get that until you do dyno's on stock vs modded. And as many of us that have worked with dyno tuning and numbers, what you get on 1 is NOT what you get on another. And any numbers can be skewed to "sell" a product. You input different info like dyno room temp, instead of air temp at intake box, humidty. baro pressure etc and numbers come out different. I always recommend people that have been there done that (Avos and others, also Mat Moran, http://www.matmoranmotorsports.com/about_car.html) These guys have done their work in a methodicle way.
1) Baseline car either on dyno or strip
2) 1 change at a time to find out what works and what doesnt
3) not affraid to admit that the shiney expensive part didnt give what was claimed or might even cost hp
4) yes sometimes the factory engineers did a damn good job at getting it right(not always, they have accountaneers, insurancneers, EPAneers, PETAneers, etc.. to deal with) plus they have the RND budget that no aftermarket company can come close to..
5) If you really want to push the car, do what I did with my Nissan truck that 5 years ago no one provided performance items for.. Buy stuff, test it, dont be affraid to spend money and find out. Ive spent alot of money on custom parts that are now avail, like forged pistons, billet rods, intake spacers etc... yes Ive bought and built stuff that didnt owrk, but many manufacturers dont build to limited markets cause they dont have profits in small purchases and development. (it took me a year to get a comany to make custom A pillar gauge pods)
When I talked to Bob he was really helpfull and interested in helping and talking regardless of wether I was buying, (really good trait) So someone should take him up on his offer. I did for Nissan ECU tuning and development by driving up to Austin, talking with a company there, paying them and staying in a hotel. They developed some of the best tuning for Nissan Frontier outthere...And all the companies like Bully Dog, Hypertech. etc.NOW HAVE..you know the companies that wouldnt talk to us. Now Uprev came out with tuning, and NOW all the other companies now came out with tuners...Personally I still highly recommend Uprev the ones that helped us and I want to help them.besides they have a great product that you can change between tunes with steering wheel cruise switches. Including my personall favorite, ANTI THEFT TUNE, no matter what you do the truck will not go faster than 10 miles an hour..No they dont do Jaguars Take the same attitude with your Jaguar, dont make promises, spend the money, and dont be affraid to try something, but be prepared to not always have your expectations met. Thats just part of the whole fun of it... But then you can sit back and have knowledge like me, Avos, Mat Moran and others that not many other people do have. Thats first hand knowledge of what works and what doesnt..
sorry to ramble, but lunch time is now over. Gotta get back to work....

 

Gee. Thanks Guys for the quick replies. As for how Stiegemeier can make statements
without having an STR to work with, I must assume he is making educated guesses
just by knowing the Eaton. He further refined his answer similarly to what AVOS and
BRUTAL are saying. He mentioned that the exhaust and intake, plus many other
variables will affect the actual RWHP. He even asked me what were the dimensions of
the Charge Air Cooler intakes (Hmmm).

I understand completely about needing a Dyno pull to establish base line, but hey,
the coolant line blew out before I was ready to send the blower, so rather than do
this all over again, I sent it out anyway.

Guys, I'm a novice at this and I really appreciate all your knowledgeable input. Stiegemeier doesn't think the Evans coolant would be beneficial to the cooling system, so I'll probably take his advice about that. He also thinks spraying the
supercharger radiator with Nitrous is a good idea for cooling off the charge air.
Any comments on that ?

I've asked him about the increased gearing speed and will publish that if I get an answer.

 

Brutal; Didn't realize you're in Sugarland. I'm in Austin myself. Good to know other Texans are on the Forum.

 

yes I used to sell nitrous and still have a filling station for transfere from large bottle to 10-20#ers. and If you look at my sig you can see I have to heavy use nitrous cars...er trucks
Nitrous is expensive $3-4/# thats $30-40 to fill a 10 pound bottle which wont last long. If I were to use NOS I would spray in the engine, not the intercoolers and waste it. there are many kits that spray the intercooler radiators with custom spray bars but they use CO2 instead and is alot cheaper. About half, it cost me $30 to fill a 25# CO2 bottle to take when I off road to fill tires etc...although most of the time I use it to fill my air mattress fast and it cools it off when its hot outside

 

We started reinstalling the blower on Saturday at 10:00 AM and using the
tricks we learned during the removal and tips from you guys, we were able
to complete the install by 2:30 PM, much less than the 10-12 hours it
took us to disassemble it.

Now to the blower work; I was disappointed when I received the modified
blower back and I'll attach some photos so you can see why. I was under
the impression reading Stiegemeier's website that the porting job includes
the blower, the throttle body, and the plenums. The blower internals look
great, but absolutely no evidence of any (however minescule) actual
porting (removal of metal) at the outlet or inlet could be seen. I know
there isn't a lot on the Jag M-112 that can be removed, but I also know
there is SOME. My intake plenum (between the TB and blower) looks really
nice, but the outlet plenum (between the blower and the charge air
plenums really looks to be done half-assed. By that I mean only the area
where the outlet flanges meet the charge air flanges was worked, but the
entire area that meets the blower outlet and splits the air to each side
was left untouched with the original casting marks evident. This is the
area of highest pressure and I could get no response to this question from
Dynobob.

Bob left me a message when I e-mailed about these omissions, saying the
$1,295 for the Snake Bite only covers the blower itself, but his website
says to send the blower, plenum, and TB. My inquiries e-mailed requesting
elaboration about the work to be done went unanswered, so I assumed
they were all covered and if not, why was part of it done then ?

Enough whining! Just make sure you have a complete understanding
before you send yours.

Bob says the Snake Bite portion of the work increased the boost by 50%.
Don't ask me how he would know that. I'm certain there were no flow
bench tests.

Bob says use the NGK BKR7E sprark Plugs gapped at 0.032". He says don't
run it without these plugs ??? He also says the air/fuel ratio should be set
for no leaner than 12.2 - 12.5 at W.O.T. (wide open throttle) and normal
driving about 14.5.

Note that I explain all of my acronyms! A real peeve with me when folks
expect you to know what their favorite acronyms mean with no
explanation. I guess that means we're dumb and they're smart or at least
trying to look and sound like it.

I'm going to use Prestone Dex Cool 50% mix with water and Water Wetter.

I'm not going to go out to try the setup till I get some dyno results and
make sure the air/fuel ratio is correct (I've replaced too many head
gaskets to make that mistake again. Fortunately theres a dyno shop
nearby. I will publish all data that I obtain.

Last photo is the infamous blower outlet plenum with original casting
marks still showing.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttwotees

portion of the work increased the boost by 50%. Don't ask me how he would know that. I'm certain there were no flow bench tests. .

If stock is 11.6 PSI you should now get 17.4 PSI, that is very high imho. Has he yet told how much the gearing is? The boost seems very high to me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttwotees

Bob says use the NGK BKR7E spark Plugs gapped at 0.032". e says don’t run it without these plugs??? He also says the air/fuel ratio should be set for no leaner than 12.2 - 12.5 at W.O.T. (wide open throttle) and normal driving about 14.5

Sock ECUs run very rich even with the stock stepped blower, so no worries here. And when the boost claimed by Bob is true, expected even richer values. Ike 11 or richer. The ECU at stock will always try to be around the 14.5 at/f mixture at cruise. I is about time Bob teams up with a STR to nail down the nitigrity .
The plugs suggested are old-school copper one, If you go this route change check them them often [/quote]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttwotees

Note that I explain all of my acronyms! A real peeve with me when folks expect you to know what their favorite acronyms mean with no explanation. I guess that means we're dumb and they're smart or at least trying to look and sound like it.

The one-eyed leading the blind,,,,

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttwotees;227526I

'm going to use Prestone Dex Cool 50% mix with water and Water Wetter.

Not sure it that will helps, as the normal additives also already contain properties for water wetter, Water wetter and water aloe will give good results, but mixing it with coolants that also have that own formulas….

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttwotees;227526I

I'm not going to go out to try the setup till I get some dyno results and make sure the air/fuel ratio is correct (I've replaced too many head gaskets to make that mistake again. Fortunately there’s a dyno shop nearby. I will publish all data that I obtain.

Good stuff that will confirm the oboe in A/Fuel mixture, and also don’t forget to measure the boost.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttwotees;227526I

Last photo is the infamous blower outlet plenum with original casting marks still showing

Some slight shavings have been done, not noticeable in performance imh.

 

Why Dex-Cool??

There is a lot controversy over that stuff. It's been taken out of my Suburban after some coolant fitting failures on that vehicle.

Is Jaguar using that on these cars?

Bob S.

 

Is it possible that he has done flow testing of these modifications on a representative version of one of these blowers but he doesn't actually do that for each one he modifies? So the performance may be close to what he claims?

I think it's very prudent to take it slowly with the work on the dyno. My question is assuming you have a qualified engine tuner operating this can one even get the ECU re-mapped on these cars if it's required?

Bob S.

 

Looking forward to your findings with interest. What you are doing is outside of my personal exprience.

(100% with you on accronyms, can't stand the things and you can only imagine what it is like when I have my working head on. They can never be translated into something sensible!)

Great thread.

 

An acronym is no different to a newly coined word. Many of those we now take for granted had to be coined in the past and no doubt people would have resisted them. Cam? Crank? Differential? Torque? Transmission? and so on.

If we had to spell out every detail every time, posts would be horrifically long or more likely never written.