Suspension replaced, but new Noise of Concern
#1
Suspension replaced, but new Noise of Concern
I have an S-type 05, base 3.0. 110,000- Mostly garaged.
I had replaced on the front the sway bar bushings (really did not need it but once there- well new ones), new sway bar links, new Forward lower control arm, new rear lower control arm, R&R the lower ball joint and a complete suspension set of springs, strut/shock from a part’s car of 18k miles.
The upper control arms appeared fine and with pushing and pulling and all sorts of tests seem to be fine. I had put on a new boot to that ball joint some 5 years ago.
The front lower control arm to the frame was in terrible shape and had moved the bolt way off- center and the alignment took car out of a serious toe-in after being fixed
The only problem which I have tried to sort out appears like a slight popping sound when the cars suspension tightens up. So if I put in D or R and move slightly at low speed 2 clicks and then gone. I f I come from a dead stop and turn right or left 2 clicks/knocks and gone. If I turn the same corner at say 5 mph and never braked- no noise at all. You can definitely hear it when I go over – again at a slow speed- a speed bump and if I do it with either tire or both on the speed bump I get some sort of up and down noise going over it. Even when I do over slowly with the back tires- you hear that same sound from the front right. I am zero problem with it at any speed above 3 mph. on a road of any sort and all the big bumps it takes without a hitch or sound. Very stable (I had forgotten how nice these cars ride when correct)- there was no problem with alignment and every part of the car is within spec. Tracks straight, zero shimmy or movement or vibration in the steering wheel.
I will also get the sound if I turn slowly up an incline to a driveway or go very slowly over a parking lot that is smooth but has swales in it so you get very slight movement of the suspension-again at a slow speed. I can also, with the car on the ground, rock the passenger (does not work from driver front) front up and down and get the sound and if I pull up on the car when sitting I get one click/pop of knock- ten push down and get the same as if you have a shoulder that slips in and out of socket
So I tried some testing and when I raise the car with a jack on the right front, I get the same sound. So I put my hand on various suspension parts and the second most feel/vibration or whatever was my hand on the sway bar and the most was when I put my hand on the sway bar ling and it sounded and felt like something that was getting caught and then slipping by a thread or something of that nature. A removal and check of the sway bar link showed nothing, but a good sway bear link.
Does anyone have a suggestion or an idea? I keep thinking that perhaps the sway bar on the passenger side is not quite as tight as it should be, but I know not and personally do not have the tools to get to it.
Any thoughts are more than appreciated, including ideas for testing or would using a silicon lube on some parts as a test tell me anything.
Help and thanks.
Tom in Dallas/Plano
S-Type, 05—3.0 base
I had replaced on the front the sway bar bushings (really did not need it but once there- well new ones), new sway bar links, new Forward lower control arm, new rear lower control arm, R&R the lower ball joint and a complete suspension set of springs, strut/shock from a part’s car of 18k miles.
The upper control arms appeared fine and with pushing and pulling and all sorts of tests seem to be fine. I had put on a new boot to that ball joint some 5 years ago.
The front lower control arm to the frame was in terrible shape and had moved the bolt way off- center and the alignment took car out of a serious toe-in after being fixed
The only problem which I have tried to sort out appears like a slight popping sound when the cars suspension tightens up. So if I put in D or R and move slightly at low speed 2 clicks and then gone. I f I come from a dead stop and turn right or left 2 clicks/knocks and gone. If I turn the same corner at say 5 mph and never braked- no noise at all. You can definitely hear it when I go over – again at a slow speed- a speed bump and if I do it with either tire or both on the speed bump I get some sort of up and down noise going over it. Even when I do over slowly with the back tires- you hear that same sound from the front right. I am zero problem with it at any speed above 3 mph. on a road of any sort and all the big bumps it takes without a hitch or sound. Very stable (I had forgotten how nice these cars ride when correct)- there was no problem with alignment and every part of the car is within spec. Tracks straight, zero shimmy or movement or vibration in the steering wheel.
I will also get the sound if I turn slowly up an incline to a driveway or go very slowly over a parking lot that is smooth but has swales in it so you get very slight movement of the suspension-again at a slow speed. I can also, with the car on the ground, rock the passenger (does not work from driver front) front up and down and get the sound and if I pull up on the car when sitting I get one click/pop of knock- ten push down and get the same as if you have a shoulder that slips in and out of socket
So I tried some testing and when I raise the car with a jack on the right front, I get the same sound. So I put my hand on various suspension parts and the second most feel/vibration or whatever was my hand on the sway bar and the most was when I put my hand on the sway bar ling and it sounded and felt like something that was getting caught and then slipping by a thread or something of that nature. A removal and check of the sway bar link showed nothing, but a good sway bear link.
Does anyone have a suggestion or an idea? I keep thinking that perhaps the sway bar on the passenger side is not quite as tight as it should be, but I know not and personally do not have the tools to get to it.
Any thoughts are more than appreciated, including ideas for testing or would using a silicon lube on some parts as a test tell me anything.
Help and thanks.
Tom in Dallas/Plano
S-Type, 05—3.0 base
#2
#3
You can verify the stabilizer bar as a source of the noise by disconnecting the link ends and use something ('bungee-cord'?) to hold it out of the way while driving to see if the noise changes or not.
The front lower ball joints are NSS from the vertical link (Not Sold/Serviced Separately) from Jaguar but are available from independent sources.
If you installed an 'aftermarket' ball joint, maybe it is faulty or installed 'poorly'?
Just a thought.
bob
The front lower ball joints are NSS from the vertical link (Not Sold/Serviced Separately) from Jaguar but are available from independent sources.
If you installed an 'aftermarket' ball joint, maybe it is faulty or installed 'poorly'?
Just a thought.
bob
#4
Goof thought
Tom
#5
You can verify the stabilizer bar as a source of the noise by disconnecting the link ends and use something ('bungee-cord'?) to hold it out of the way while driving to see if the noise changes or not.
The front lower ball joints are NSS from the vertical link (Not Sold/Serviced Separately) from Jaguar but are available from independent sources.
If you installed an 'aftermarket' ball joint, maybe it is faulty or installed 'poorly'?
Just a thought.
bob
The front lower ball joints are NSS from the vertical link (Not Sold/Serviced Separately) from Jaguar but are available from independent sources.
If you installed an 'aftermarket' ball joint, maybe it is faulty or installed 'poorly'?
Just a thought.
bob
Thanks
Tom
#7
When I worked at the dealer we had 4 post lifts with drive-on ramps so you could have the car fully loaded on the suspension but still have it at eye-level.
The problem with a twin post or jack is that the suspension DANGLES and is not at the operating height or loading.
An alignment rack is the best way to observe suspension while moving things around.
bob
The problem with a twin post or jack is that the suspension DANGLES and is not at the operating height or loading.
An alignment rack is the best way to observe suspension while moving things around.
bob
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#8
TBB
#9
When I worked at the dealer we had 4 post lifts with drive-on ramps so you could have the car fully loaded on the suspension but still have it at eye-level.
The problem with a twin post or jack is that the suspension DANGLES and is not at the operating height or loading.
An alignment rack is the best way to observe suspension while moving things around.
bob
The problem with a twin post or jack is that the suspension DANGLES and is not at the operating height or loading.
An alignment rack is the best way to observe suspension while moving things around.
bob
Thanks
TBB
#10
When I worked at the dealer we had 4 post lifts with drive-on ramps so you could have the car fully loaded on the suspension but still have it at eye-level.
The problem with a twin post or jack is that the suspension DANGLES and is not at the operating height or loading.
An alignment rack is the best way to observe suspension while moving things around.
bob
The problem with a twin post or jack is that the suspension DANGLES and is not at the operating height or loading.
An alignment rack is the best way to observe suspension while moving things around.
bob
TBB
#11
#12
I usually tightened the bolts somewhat but once the car was on the alignment rack I gave the bolts a final tightening after the final adjustments were made to ensure the bushes were centered.
Ball joints are not affected that way, only the metalastic or rubber type bushes.
bob
Ball joints are not affected that way, only the metalastic or rubber type bushes.
bob
Thanks
Bob
Tom
#13
i always try to remember to tighten snug and then use a jack under the control arm and put the weight on the suspension for the torquing. and when i forget I JACKER IT UP AND LOOSEN THEN RETORQUE LIKE I DID THIS TIME.
Btw, when i forgot this time, it reminded my by popping as i lowered the car the first time
Btw, when i forgot this time, it reminded my by popping as i lowered the car the first time
#14
i always try to remember to tighten snug and then use a jack under the control arm and put the weight on the suspension for the torquing. and when i forget I JACKER IT UP AND LOOSEN THEN RETORQUE LIKE I DID THIS TIME.
Btw, when i forgot this time, it reminded my by popping as i lowered the car the first time
Btw, when i forgot this time, it reminded my by popping as i lowered the car the first time
Tom
#15
Soultion will be easy
Figured out the problem and it was my first choice and I had talked myself out of it.
I took a bottle jack to various suspension components and the the control arms and raised and lowered and watched everything and felt the pieces when i heard the popping sound. When I went to the lower front arm I could hear it easier and put my hand on the sway bar and sway bar link and no doubt that the vibration was coming through there. I had already check the sway bar link and it was fine. Put my hand on the sway bar bracket and bushing and bounced the car with my other and zero doubt it was coming from that connection. It does not appear to mush down the new bushing as much as the other and I just overlooked it completely. I think it is the bolt toward the bumper cover, but both will get tightened.
I have a 20" extension to get to the bolts- does anyone offhand know the size?
Thanks all for your help.
TBB in Dallas/Plano
I took a bottle jack to various suspension components and the the control arms and raised and lowered and watched everything and felt the pieces when i heard the popping sound. When I went to the lower front arm I could hear it easier and put my hand on the sway bar and sway bar link and no doubt that the vibration was coming through there. I had already check the sway bar link and it was fine. Put my hand on the sway bar bracket and bushing and bounced the car with my other and zero doubt it was coming from that connection. It does not appear to mush down the new bushing as much as the other and I just overlooked it completely. I think it is the bolt toward the bumper cover, but both will get tightened.
I have a 20" extension to get to the bolts- does anyone offhand know the size?
Thanks all for your help.
TBB in Dallas/Plano
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