tapping noise after oil change
#1
tapping noise after oil change
I just bought a 2006 s type 3.0. when I brought it home the first thing I did was check the oil. Nothing showd up on the dipstick which freaked me out cause I thought there was no oil in the engine and I had driven 45 miles home from the dealer. so I decided to just do an oil change. when I drained the oil I got about 3 or 4qt out. After changing the oil like 1 day later I start hearing this tapping sound around 1000rpm and it's just bothering me cause im worried that it might be some thing serious. I didn't hear this noise when I test drove the car or when I was driving it back home. could it be the filter? I used a bosch filter with moble 1 engine oil. also after lowering the car and test driving it after changing oil the front brakes use to be so quiet that you could not hear them. Now I hear a lot of brake noise. can anybody help me out?
#2
Does the "tick" follow the crank speed as the gas is depressed then depressed? If yes then may have bearing problem. Does the "tick" run at half speed of crank speed? If yes then possible valve train problem. A worn a/c compressor may knock or tick. turn it off then listen. A worn water pump can emit a "tick". Remove accessory belt, turn her on, then listen. If you have a stethescope, use it on valve cover to detect valve train problem or oil pan to detect rod knock. You may find the "tick" disappear as the new more-volumnous oil re-sets the OHC followers. Others will be here soon to help. Hang on and keep us posted.
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DavidRey (03-25-2011)
#3
also...who knows how long since last change befor yours..and thats quite a small amount to drain out.. it could very well be that there was some respectable sludge deposits. Once you put the new oil in.. the detergents actually act like a cleaner..clearing those old deposits that were in fact hiding the ticking..most likely from the lifters.
I would strongly suggest that you run the oil you just put in for maybe 1000 miles... and change it again...I could make a fair wager your "new"oil wll be black
I would strongly suggest that you run the oil you just put in for maybe 1000 miles... and change it again...I could make a fair wager your "new"oil wll be black
#4
#5
thanks for the reply guys, do you think the sales man at the dealer might have put in regular uleaded fuel rather than premium which would have caused knocking? before driving off he did put in a full tank of gas. I added gummout octaine booster and the noise has noticably become a bit quieter.
Last edited by DavidRey; 03-24-2011 at 04:41 PM.
#6
Does the "tick" follow the crank speed as the gas is depressed then depressed? If yes then may have bearing problem. Does the "tick" run at half speed of crank speed? If yes then possible valve train problem. A worn a/c compressor may knock or tick. turn it off then listen. A worn water pump can emit a "tick". Remove accessory belt, turn her on, then listen. If you have a stethescope, use it on valve cover to detect valve train problem or oil pan to detect rod knock. You may find the "tick" disappear as the new more-volumnous oil re-sets the OHC followers. Others will be here soon to help. Hang on and keep us posted.
#7
It is very possible that the dealer didn't do a service before listing the car for sale... My experience with the 3.0 is it is an oil user... (that oil that drips out of the IMT valves comes from somewhere, right?) Mine would go through a quart or so by 3000 miles... I would never go the manual's recommended 10,000 miles between services... So, it just may have been a while since the last service. I would get some Lucas fuel system cleaner and run that.. When you get close to 100 miles before your going to change the oil again (soon I hope) run a quart of ATF in it to deep clean things out, then change the oil and put in conventional oil, not synthetic. See if that makes a difference. Then answer back.
About your brakes:
How many miles are on the 06? How long was it sitting at the dealer? My personal opinion is the "stock" brakes suck on these cars.. I replaced mine with Centric's Posi-Quiet semi metallic pads and the dust level was low, they were perfectly quiet, and stopped the car beautifully. They are not that much money and it would be worth it to do it. I am not a ceramic brake fan (let the arguments start ). I find that they are noisy and don't offer the same brake power that a good set of semi's do...
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#8
Oh, I didn't put this in with my other post on purpose.... Because, since the oil was low, I really think you need to do that other stuff... But, my 300 "ticks" just like you describe... It is actually one of the accessory drive pulleys on mine.. So, run it and listen real close.. You may find it coming from the very front of the motor... Mine is minor, but I'm going to watch things... If you can, get in there and check the belt for wear, and any of the pulleys for excessive play...
#9
#10
#11
Yes on that.... Change it again and soon....
I have to say.... "Shame on you".... At least check fluids any time you look at a used car... But I won't dwell...
It is very possible that the dealer didn't do a service before listing the car for sale... My experience with the 3.0 is it is an oil user... (that oil that drips out of the IMT valves comes from somewhere, right?) Mine would go through a quart or so by 3000 miles... I would never go the manual's recommended 10,000 miles between services... So, it just may have been a while since the last service. I would get some Lucas fuel system cleaner and run that.. When you get close to 100 miles before your going to change the oil again (soon I hope) run a quart of ATF in it to deep clean things out, then change the oil and put in conventional oil, not synthetic. See if that makes a difference. Then answer back.
About your brakes:
How many miles are on the 06? How long was it sitting at the dealer? My personal opinion is the "stock" brakes suck on these cars.. I replaced mine with Centric's Posi-Quiet semi metallic pads and the dust level was low, they were perfectly quiet, and stopped the car beautifully. They are not that much money and it would be worth it to do it. I am not a ceramic brake fan (let the arguments start ). I find that they are noisy and don't offer the same brake power that a good set of semi's do...
I have to say.... "Shame on you".... At least check fluids any time you look at a used car... But I won't dwell...
It is very possible that the dealer didn't do a service before listing the car for sale... My experience with the 3.0 is it is an oil user... (that oil that drips out of the IMT valves comes from somewhere, right?) Mine would go through a quart or so by 3000 miles... I would never go the manual's recommended 10,000 miles between services... So, it just may have been a while since the last service. I would get some Lucas fuel system cleaner and run that.. When you get close to 100 miles before your going to change the oil again (soon I hope) run a quart of ATF in it to deep clean things out, then change the oil and put in conventional oil, not synthetic. See if that makes a difference. Then answer back.
About your brakes:
How many miles are on the 06? How long was it sitting at the dealer? My personal opinion is the "stock" brakes suck on these cars.. I replaced mine with Centric's Posi-Quiet semi metallic pads and the dust level was low, they were perfectly quiet, and stopped the car beautifully. They are not that much money and it would be worth it to do it. I am not a ceramic brake fan (let the arguments start ). I find that they are noisy and don't offer the same brake power that a good set of semi's do...
#12
Don't know what a rod bearing is but the way you typed it sounds like it was a bad experiance lol. Hopfully thats not my case but unfortunatley it was sold as-is.
#13
#14
Oh, I didn't put this in with my other post on purpose.... Because, since the oil was low, I really think you need to do that other stuff... But, my 300 "ticks" just like you describe... It is actually one of the accessory drive pulleys on mine.. So, run it and listen real close.. You may find it coming from the very front of the motor... Mine is minor, but I'm going to watch things... If you can, get in there and check the belt for wear, and any of the pulleys for excessive play...
#15
Maybe you need some magic elixir for the pwr steering. Is it only when turning the wheel? even just a little bit? Or totally unrelated to steering wheel movement. You can search on "power steering noise" and it should pop up....you'd swear it is a plastic squeak inside the cabin in the column....but it is actually out in the engine bay (the rack) and an easy $10 fix.
#16
Maybe you need some magic elixir for the pwr steering. Is it only when turning the wheel? even just a little bit? Or totally unrelated to steering wheel movement. You can search on "power steering noise" and it should pop up....you'd swear it is a plastic squeak inside the cabin in the column....but it is actually out in the engine bay (the rack) and an easy $10 fix.
#17
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#18
I don't think it's the accesory drive, I tried listening for the ticking/ knocking sound with my ear close to the engine and I cant hear it. I only hear it from inside the car. I'll be taking the car in to the shop to have a mechanic check it out. one thing that I forgot to mention is that I also hear some strange noise inside the dash, sounds like when you move around on a leather couch. Any thoughts on what it might be? Im starting to get stressed .
Are there three different issues being discussed?
1) ticking sound related to RPM
2) Dash noise (creak / groan)
3) Brake noise.
I'm guessing it is all three but correct me if I'm wrong..
1) could be a lot of things..most likely a moving part on the outside of the engine. The 3.0 is a tough motor and even though it was bad to be that low on oil it probably was not damaged. Those things hold about 7 quarts of oil! If there really was some sort of internal damage I would think one of the many sensors on it would have picked something up and triggered a light by now. An easy way to check for pulley noise is to get yourself a can of spray lithium grease. Not WD40! The lithium grease is thick enough that it won't run down onto other stuff. Spray it behind a pulley, one at a time, and start up the car after each one. See if the tick goes away. Oh, as a word of caution, plan on cleaning off the front after you do that. The grease could actually hurt the bearings that you are spraying if you leave it there, since it is sticky and will attract dust and dirt. I've used that method for years and it always works. And start with the tensioner pulley, that is the one that fails the most.
2) Norri took the words out of my mouth. The climate control makes all kinds of weird noises even right after the car is turned off.. If the climate control works fine..Just leave it for now.
3) The brake noise could be a combination of things... Most likely cheap crappy pads and sitting on a lot for a while. It may clear up after driving it for a while. I'm real **** about brakes, so I would change them. Oh, while not a good thing to jack the car up from the lower a-arm mounting point, I doubt you hurt anything. I just wouldn't do it again....
You need to be careful. The oil change thing freaked you out so now your mind is going to hear every little thing and your gonna think its a major issue. I'm actually going through that with my 300 a little bit. Those cars are notorious for bad suspension bushings.... Every little thunk makes me go "OH CRAP"..
I see your signature lists both a 06 and a 03... You have both? That puts you in a interesting advantage... those two cars are almost identical. Yea, many of the body parts are different, but the mechanicals didn't change much.. The major difference between the two are some suspension bushings and the brake calipers up front..So, really you could compare one to the other..
I would schedule an inspection at the dealer. I know they are far away, but it would be worth it for peace of mind. Call around and see what they will charge. Many times it isn't that bad. Be up front with them. Tell them they are far away and that you have a local shop (even if you don't yet) and that you just bought the car and would like their "very experienced and knowledgeable" staff to go over the car for you (yes a bit of brown nosing works wonders!). See what they say and express your concerns..
I know it's long...hope it helps a bit... I don't think you really have that much going on...
The following users liked this post:
DavidRey (03-25-2011)
#19
OK, I'm getting a little confused here...
Are there three different issues being discussed?
1) ticking sound related to RPM
2) Dash noise (creak / groan)
3) Brake noise.
I'm guessing it is all three but correct me if I'm wrong..
1) could be a lot of things..most likely a moving part on the outside of the engine. The 3.0 is a tough motor and even though it was bad to be that low on oil it probably was not damaged. Those things hold about 7 quarts of oil! If there really was some sort of internal damage I would think one of the many sensors on it would have picked something up and triggered a light by now. An easy way to check for pulley noise is to get yourself a can of spray lithium grease. Not WD40! The lithium grease is thick enough that it won't run down onto other stuff. Spray it behind a pulley, one at a time, and start up the car after each one. See if the tick goes away. Oh, as a word of caution, plan on cleaning off the front after you do that. The grease could actually hurt the bearings that you are spraying if you leave it there, since it is sticky and will attract dust and dirt. I've used that method for years and it always works. And start with the tensioner pulley, that is the one that fails the most.
2) Norri took the words out of my mouth. The climate control makes all kinds of weird noises even right after the car is turned off.. If the climate control works fine..Just leave it for now.
3) The brake noise could be a combination of things... Most likely cheap crappy pads and sitting on a lot for a while. It may clear up after driving it for a while. I'm real **** about brakes, so I would change them. Oh, while not a good thing to jack the car up from the lower a-arm mounting point, I doubt you hurt anything. I just wouldn't do it again....
You need to be careful. The oil change thing freaked you out so now your mind is going to hear every little thing and your gonna think its a major issue. I'm actually going through that with my 300 a little bit. Those cars are notorious for bad suspension bushings.... Every little thunk makes me go "OH CRAP"..
I see your signature lists both a 06 and a 03... You have both? That puts you in a interesting advantage... those two cars are almost identical. Yea, many of the body parts are different, but the mechanicals didn't change much.. The major difference between the two are some suspension bushings and the brake calipers up front..So, really you could compare one to the other..
I would schedule an inspection at the dealer. I know they are far away, but it would be worth it for peace of mind. Call around and see what they will charge. Many times it isn't that bad. Be up front with them. Tell them they are far away and that you have a local shop (even if you don't yet) and that you just bought the car and would like their "very experienced and knowledgeable" staff to go over the car for you (yes a bit of brown nosing works wonders!). See what they say and express your concerns..
I know it's long...hope it helps a bit... I don't think you really have that much going on...
Are there three different issues being discussed?
1) ticking sound related to RPM
2) Dash noise (creak / groan)
3) Brake noise.
I'm guessing it is all three but correct me if I'm wrong..
1) could be a lot of things..most likely a moving part on the outside of the engine. The 3.0 is a tough motor and even though it was bad to be that low on oil it probably was not damaged. Those things hold about 7 quarts of oil! If there really was some sort of internal damage I would think one of the many sensors on it would have picked something up and triggered a light by now. An easy way to check for pulley noise is to get yourself a can of spray lithium grease. Not WD40! The lithium grease is thick enough that it won't run down onto other stuff. Spray it behind a pulley, one at a time, and start up the car after each one. See if the tick goes away. Oh, as a word of caution, plan on cleaning off the front after you do that. The grease could actually hurt the bearings that you are spraying if you leave it there, since it is sticky and will attract dust and dirt. I've used that method for years and it always works. And start with the tensioner pulley, that is the one that fails the most.
2) Norri took the words out of my mouth. The climate control makes all kinds of weird noises even right after the car is turned off.. If the climate control works fine..Just leave it for now.
3) The brake noise could be a combination of things... Most likely cheap crappy pads and sitting on a lot for a while. It may clear up after driving it for a while. I'm real **** about brakes, so I would change them. Oh, while not a good thing to jack the car up from the lower a-arm mounting point, I doubt you hurt anything. I just wouldn't do it again....
You need to be careful. The oil change thing freaked you out so now your mind is going to hear every little thing and your gonna think its a major issue. I'm actually going through that with my 300 a little bit. Those cars are notorious for bad suspension bushings.... Every little thunk makes me go "OH CRAP"..
I see your signature lists both a 06 and a 03... You have both? That puts you in a interesting advantage... those two cars are almost identical. Yea, many of the body parts are different, but the mechanicals didn't change much.. The major difference between the two are some suspension bushings and the brake calipers up front..So, really you could compare one to the other..
I would schedule an inspection at the dealer. I know they are far away, but it would be worth it for peace of mind. Call around and see what they will charge. Many times it isn't that bad. Be up front with them. Tell them they are far away and that you have a local shop (even if you don't yet) and that you just bought the car and would like their "very experienced and knowledgeable" staff to go over the car for you (yes a bit of brown nosing works wonders!). See what they say and express your concerns..
I know it's long...hope it helps a bit... I don't think you really have that much going on...
#20