TB intake Rubber Boot... Size??
#1
TB intake Rubber Boot... Size??
My car is an S Type "R"
Can Anyone tell me how big it is:
So far its not going away. My best guess is the intake Rubber Boot for the TB and Im planning to replaced it with a Silicon one.
Thanks,
JG
Can Anyone tell me how big it is:
- The TB inside or outside diameter?
- The Intake Elbo that connects to the TB?
So far its not going away. My best guess is the intake Rubber Boot for the TB and Im planning to replaced it with a Silicon one.
Thanks,
JG
Last edited by mystype04; 04-12-2012 at 07:33 PM.
#2
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#6
here are the measurements of the TB to intake elbow rubber coupler:
calipers didn't fit too well back on the TB, but a rough check pretty well matches the ID of the rubber coupler, maybe a slightly smaller.
OD of intake elbow 3.93"
- the smaller TB side has an ID of 3.38"
- the larger intake elbow side has an ID of 3.9"
calipers didn't fit too well back on the TB, but a rough check pretty well matches the ID of the rubber coupler, maybe a slightly smaller.
OD of intake elbow 3.93"
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mystype04 (04-23-2012)
#7
You'll be luck if it's at the boot.
At 115K, my boot looks pretty good (and it's been on and off a bunch), I did replace the clamps.
If chasing an air leak, and you fail to find success with the boot, I would suggest you check the pcv line fitting where it returns to the TB - under the TB motor. It's the other end of the hard plastic line that connects to your pcv valve (the pancake looking valve on the passenger side valve cover). That plastic will fatigue and crack over time.
Yep, it's a pain, and does require removal of the TB as far as I could tell, but I had the same gremlins and codes - multiple misfires, knock codes, running scary rough (if it stayed running), all after I had buttoned up after replacing the coolant line under the blower.
I know I didn't answer your question, but, perhaps gave you another place to chase.
Kind Regards,
At 115K, my boot looks pretty good (and it's been on and off a bunch), I did replace the clamps.
If chasing an air leak, and you fail to find success with the boot, I would suggest you check the pcv line fitting where it returns to the TB - under the TB motor. It's the other end of the hard plastic line that connects to your pcv valve (the pancake looking valve on the passenger side valve cover). That plastic will fatigue and crack over time.
Yep, it's a pain, and does require removal of the TB as far as I could tell, but I had the same gremlins and codes - multiple misfires, knock codes, running scary rough (if it stayed running), all after I had buttoned up after replacing the coolant line under the blower.
I know I didn't answer your question, but, perhaps gave you another place to chase.
Kind Regards,
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