BTW, this is what I put in my 2005 STR back in 2015 as a preventive measure. It worked just fine. It says BOSCH on the top in the photo.

 

So after many hours under the car next to the car on top of the car I finally got that damn valve replaced. That job is a nightmare just like anything else that needs replacing inside the engine compartment. There’s just no room to work. Getting those hoses off is a struggle. Ended up taking off the coolant overflow, the top radiator hose, the wheel, the wheel liner, the belly pan, the front pan under the bumper, and the intake tube and a hose off the aux coolant pump .

The car I’m working on has had somebody in that location in the past so all the connectors and hoses that are down in that area under the front right corner of the engine compartment were not in there correct location. They weren’t routed right or held in place with the little Christmas tree harness thingies. Had to wrap harness protection wrap in a lot of places. Used lots of zip ties.

Trying to find out where everything was supposed to go was like putting together a puzzle that required numerous trial and error attempts

on the 06STR the DCCV has three hoses with the top two short hoses going to the aluminum coolant pipes that go to the heater core and the bottom center hose that goes up to the radiator hose at the top of the engine compartment. The three clamps that are on those hoses at the DC CV are almost impossible to remove while the part is in the vehicle because there’s just no space to get a pair of pliers in. I even have a special cable operated hose clamp tool that usually works really well if those clamps are in the correct position but these clamps weren’t so I could not get on them very easily. I ended up just forcing the bottom center hose off of the DC CV by using a pry bar and just sliding it off with the clamp still in place. Then reaching up to try to get the two other hoses off the aluminum cooling pipes on the inner fender well was a hell of a lot harder than it should have been. Trying to squeeze the two little plastic tabs on either side of the hose connection at the same time with sufficient deflection to allow that hose to come off was hell and I basically needed to use a screwdriver to persuade those connectors to unlock.

I got replacement hoses for the two short pieces that go to those aluminum pipes and they used a different type of quick connect fitting that might make it a little easier in the future

When installing the DCCV it’s easier to put those two short hoses on the DCCV first then mount the valve in its location against the back of the radiator fan shroud (need to unbolt and move the coolant pump that sits on top of the dccv. and put the dccv attaching screw on.

The whole time you’re doing this you’re fighting the hoses interfering with anything and everything the connectors for the coolant overflow tank and the DC CV which love to get in the way and that coolant pump that sits on top of the DCCV just loves to be a pain in the ***. I had to remove the hose off that pump that goes from the pump up to the aluminum coolant manifold in front of the supercharger.

I finally figured out how the center hose for the DC CV is routed and it Hass to go between the rad support and all of the hoses that are up in that area right behind the radiator support and it kind of weaves between the hoses that are there for that coolant pump.

needless to say I struggled with that son of a bitch for two days for short periods of time because of the heat. But even when I turned the air conditioner on in my shop it was still frustrating so I only spent a short period of time at it at a time.

needless to say I did not measure the current on the two wires going to the DC CV because the location of the connector once the part is installed is not accessible. I could’ve done a bench test but it wouldn’t really tell me much because I wouldn’t have the correct vehicle voltage or the correct operating temperature of the coils or the contact resistance of the connectors by doing a bench test. I might try to use my clamp on ammeter on the two wires going to the DC CV that are up on the left side instrument panel access. If I do I’ll post results

but the part is in and it works and the heater and ac works. The AC works even after I give it some pedal. Now the hope is that this cheap $35 DCC V will last as long as $150 ones because I do not wanna have to do this job over again.



Trying to figure out which line went where using JEPC wasnt helpful as their naming convention sucks

Trying a dry fit of the hoses. Found you cant install it with the center bottom hose attached. But you may st install the two short hoses first. Then fight everything in the way as you try to get it in place

First attempt with all 3 hoses on the dccv was unsuccessful. the third hose that goes to the big rad hose needs to be routed between the aux coolant pump hoses and the radiator support whereas the two short hoses go behind the aux coolant pump hoses. Btw the layout pic from the jag manual was for a different year and didnt match the 06 setup.

Here’s some pictures. I tried to disassemble this connector to see how the terminals looked but I was afraid id break it (like I did to the aux coolant pump connector locking tab) so I said screw it and just reassembled it.

 

Is the late model DCCV a candidate for replacing just the guts, like I did on my '02?:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...repair-251854/


If the in situ repair looks feasible, it might be worth picking up a spare Fling Dung brand DCCV. That way if it need some love 10 years down the road, you'll have parts you know will fit your newly installed DCCV.

 

it’s definitely doable. My tops can come off just like yours. And im sure the internal valve and seals are identical internally but ill look

im always taking crap apart trying to fix things. I was just afraid I’m not getting a good seal on reassembly so I didn’t try this but after what I went through and it’s definitely on the table.

i’m also pretty convinced that all these valves are made by the same company and just have different steel caps. One that says posh on it and one that is unmarked. I compared my original Bosch valve with the $35 one and every casting mark, matches. Oh the hardware looks identical. All the structural pieces look identical. Has the same notches in the same place is the same markings even except for the Bosch part number is not marked on the Plastic piece

I’ll take the bad bosch part apart later today and post and pictures up and see if my internals look identical to yours but i will bet they have the same color parts, same shaped piece parts, casting lines etc as the $35 part,

I’m gonna say they’re all made by the same company And just that the higher end parts to get some additional markings. On the original Bosch as well as on the replacement there is a number cast into the plastic part on the opposite side of the hoses that matches. And the little circle cast into the plastic that is used as the casting identifier that’s on the black plastic part is the same shape size and location on both parts i have.

 

Sounds like you bought a car with some butchered repairs on it.
Mine was pristine and when I replaced this as a preventative measure I remember it being a bit confusing as to where hoses get routed but I took photos and it wasn't horrific like the under SC hose has been. But mine is is a 2005.
I wouldn't even think about trying to fix the valve in situ there's just too GD much going on in that part of engine compartment, at least for a STR

 

I actually got the car for free. It belonged to a friend who had bought a newer car And this was just taking up space in her driveway. When she called me, I was at work and she asked me if I remembered the old Black Jag she used to have (she had 2) and I honestly didn’t remember it. She lives in California I live in Arkansas and I hadn’t seen her in a while but I always know she had top end cars

so as I’m sitting at work in front of my computer I ask her what kind of jag it was and she said it was a 06 S type R and I immediately typed it into my search engine on my computer. and as soon as I saw what it was, I said “yeah I’ll take it. What do you want for it? “

she said “no you can just have it” and I was on the next plane out there But I knew it needed some work because the last thing she told me about was that she needed to have some hoses replaced it was gonna cost her $1700. I thought some dealer was trying to rip her off and there was no way I could’ve cost that much. It was a hose under the supercharger so yeah that was my first repair

but It’s a California car and there is absolutely no rust whatsoever. the bodies in great shape. the interior is almost perfect it had 121,000 miles on it when I got just needs some resurrection. but its a great almost fully optioned car and I love it!

but moral of the story is that -even if you get a free Jaguar, it’s not gonna be free.

 

Got any similar friend in England?

 

you know she also had a ex type that she wasn’t driving anymore and I wasn’t really interested in the car at the time but a few months after I got the S type I asked her what she did with the x type and she said she gave that to somebody else. I said “damn we could’ve loaded that on the car hauler with the S type” and she agreed! Lol she would’ve given me that car too! But to be honest I don’t know what I would’ve done with it. I’ve got so many cars as it is now. It’s not like I need another

 

I replaced that hose that goes to the bottom of the valve when i first got my car thinking it was only an easy to get to rad hose. When the new one came i thought they sent me the wrong one because of the dccv hose. I did not realize it had that hose. What a nightmare. Most boood i have shed on any repair on my car