Hey everyone...just discovered this forum as I search for answers. I own a 2003 S-Type and l-o-v-e it. Up until this point, I've not had any issues with it, however, it is now giving me some issues.

First, I had a misfire 1,3,5 code which cleared itself. This occurred shortly after adding Jasco Fuel Additive. I thought perhaps it dislodged something in the tank or something and didn't think more about it.

Now about six months later I end up with another check engine and lean codes. I replace the fuel filter which was in need of being changed. Things were fine, but now I have a 'Restricted Performance' message that pops up after I drive on the interstate; it goes away after I slow down and drive in town/neighborhoods.(25-45)

I guess I wonder if a vacuum leak could cause such a thing since it only seems to pop up when I am traveling at higher speeds when demand on the engine is higher?

Could it be a coil going? Or would a coil through the code every time as soon as I start the car?

Thanks in advance and I look forward to reading through the forums.

Craig

 

Welcome Craig. Thanks ahead for actually reading through the forum.
One quick suggestion. Go in your profile and create a signature that includes the year and engine, at the least, that you have. That makes a difference.

Your post got my attention because I had a similar issue. So, it looks like your hitting some of the most common issues, at least mentally. Since you do have an 03, that means that you have a refreshed car so many of the vacuum leak issues were addressed. That said, it is also a 7 year old car therefore it is a good idea to go over all the rubber under the hood. Inspect the rubber air intake for any cracks. Look at all the vacuum lines for any signs of dry rot. If you are unsure of it's service history, it would probably be a good idea to purchase a set of intake gaskets and IMT O-rings and pull the intake and take the opportunity to see what is going on in there. Of coarse that is if you plan on doing DIY service.

Now to my "gut" feeling. Since you are getting misfire codes all on one bank, it makes me think it is similar to what happened to mine. I started a thread about that. Here it is... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=44855 In a nutshell, when the car was pushed at high RPM it would trip the MIL, and give me a restricted performance message. Mine is still covered under the Select Edition warranty so I let the dealer trouble shoot it. It also tripped codes on one bank and not the other. It also had a new fuel filter. So, read through the thread, and you will see that a failed catalytic converter was the culprit.

Now I'm going to digress a bit. I notice that there are more refreshed cars coming up with these errors. As a side note, I also get Automotive News delivered to my work e-mail on a daily basis because of my industry. Anyway, I read an article yesterday that got me thinking. The Auto Manufacturers, Light Engine Manufacturers, and the Marine Industry have filed suit against the US EPA over their October regulation that allows fuel producers to now be able to add up to 15% Ethanol to Gasoline. They say that it will cause issues and failures if allowed.. The rest is just my gut feeling and nothing else.. I notice that many fuel pumps have a notice that they may contain "up to 10% Ethanol". Also, the owners manual not only states that all Jaguars require premium fuel but to not use fuel containing "high" alcohol content. So, could these companies that essentially "cut" or "dilute" their fuel with Ethanol be slowly hurting our cars? I may be guilty of killing my own cat.. Thank goodness the dealer just warrantied it. I'm thinking that "cut" fuel is also the reason that I'm not getting all that great fuel mileage. So, I'm going to switch sources and look for a station that doesn't list Ethanol as a content. From what I understand, they have to post it if the fuel contains it.
Now this only applies to the US since each country has different regulations regarding fuel.
Who knows, I could be way off base as well...

 

catalytic converters are part of the Emission system which is normally covered for a lot longer under warranty possibly 80,000- 90,000 miles check you hand book, Or some one with the same car could check for you PLUS yours could be even better if its a California car. Paul

 

Agreed. Typical coverage for catalytic converters here in the U.S. is 8 years / 80,000 miles, and even better in California. I've had two cats fail on my 1999 Dodge Ram. The factory cat failed in 2003, and the replacement cat failed in 2008. Both were covered completely by the federal warranty requirements....

 

Warranty would only apply if the wrong fuel not used. (I can't see how they could check, though!)

 

Oh... for the OP - coils can and often are a cause of misfires but first tell us more about mileage etc of your car. I'm guessing a 3.0 but do say

Plugs are due on the 3.0 at 70K miles. Coils aren't rated that way but they do die with use. I can't see all 3 of 1,3,5 (cylinders, I'm guessing) all going bad at once.

Cheap and easy to read the OBD codes to look for clues.

 

Thanks to everyone for taking time to help!

JOsworth....Thanks for the thread suggestion and signature suggestion; I've updated it. I will start reading through the thread today.

I currently have 73,589 miles on the car. I am not the original owner; therefore I don't know the complete history of maintenance. Although, I did check with the dealership prior to purchase and they told me all recalls and regular maintenance had been taken care of according to their records.

When the car starts it idles roughly. Today I plan on taking out the MAF and cleaning it.

Here are the OBD Codes I pulled:
P0174 - System Too Lean Bank 2
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P1313 - Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A

I prefer to do most of my own work, however, I recently had a crack in a coolant pipe and had a known and trusted non-dealer mechanic replace the rack of pipes and replace coolant.

If it ends up being the Catalytic Converter how can I see if it is covered under the warranty? Does the fact I'm not the original owner affect the warrant; or does that carry over to each owner? Who do I file that warranty repair through?

Obviously, I need to replace the plugs as I don't know if the previous owner changed them. As far as the coils are considered can I actually test a coil to see which one may be bad? I'm good with mechanical fixes, but electrical stuff I'm a little sketchy. I have an electrical tester for DC volts, AC volts, DC current, Ohms etc....Can I use that to test the coils?

 

P.S. Just checked the Passport to care and called the California Air Resources Board and found out that the car's emission system etc was only covered up to 7 years or 70,000 miles.

 

If your OBD tool will do it, what are the fuel trims? If you've an air leak as the above suggests then the trims should show the car trying to compensate (and only on one bank).

Realistically you can't test coils. Well, you can do quick ohm-type tests and if a coil is broken then replace it. But most coils only break down under the stress they get on the car so static tests with a meter or other device reveal the coils as "good" even if they're bad.

 

I am looking at this and seeing it as a fuel presentation or fouled plug (coil Pack) issue. Looking at the codes they all go back to fuel or plugs. See the attached OBD II chart http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf then look at page 6 that the P0300 references. Not an expert just my .02 worth.

 

Which is why the fuel trims should be revealing.

If the OP can read them, then the readings at idle (600-ish rpm) and at fast idle (2500-3000rpm) would be helpful. Both banks, short & long fuel trims.

 

Hey everyone, thank you so much for your feedback. I've been very busy with work and holiday shopping, but will get OBD data uploaded soon. Thanks Again and Happy Holidays!!!!

 

Here is the Live Data from my scanner. The first is at idle and the second is at RPM just over 2500......Let me know what you think.

Live Data
DTC_CNT 6
FUELSYS1 CL
FUELSYS2 CL
LOAD_PCT(%) 23.5
ETC(°C) 54
SHRTFT1(%) 3.1
LONGFT1(%) -0.8
SHRTFT2(%) 1.6
LONGFT2(%) 2.3
FRP(kPa) 381
MAP(kPa) 44
RPM(/min) 772
VSS(km/h) 0
SPARKADV(°) 8
IAT(°C) 19
MAF(g/s) 6.49
TP(%) 6.3
O2S B1S12--B2S12--
O2B1S2(V) 0.890
SHRTFTB1S2(%) -1.6
O2B2S2(V) 0.835
SHRTFTB2S2(%) 0.8
OBD OBD&OBD2
MIL_DIST(km) 335
EQ_RAT11 1.031
O2S11(mA) -0.879
EQ_RAT21 1.009
O2S21(mA) -0.246


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DTC_CNT 6
FUELSYS1 CL
FUELSYS2 CL
LOAD_PCT(%) 15.3
ETC(°C) 83
SHRTFT1(%) 0.8
LONGFT1(%) 3.1
SHRTFT2(%) -1.6
LONGFT2(%) 8.6
FRP(kPa) 384
MAP(kPa) 26
RPM(/min) 2516
VSS(km/h) 0
SPARKADV(°) 38
IAT(°C) 21
MAF(g/s) 13.35
TP(%) 10.6
O2S B1S12--B2S12--
O2B1S2(V) 0.210
SHRTFTB1S2(%) -1.6
O2B2S2(V) 0.230
SHRTFTB2S2(%) -1.6
OBD OBD&OBD2
MIL_DIST(km) 335
EQ_RAT11 1.016
O2S11(mA) -0.391
EQ_RAT21 1.004
O2S21(mA) -0.246

 

Doesn't look like an air leak, at least not starting at cold and shortly after.

You have 6 DTCs again unless you didn't clear them. Might be worth looking at the Freeze Frame data for them to see if it provides hints.

Could be any of a few things. A split hose may only flex sometimes. Could be coils. Could be gaskets, only leaking when hot or some such. If it's due plugs, could easily be them. (Replace with the right kind.)

If you didn't clear the codes, I would, and then see how fast they come back and if you can figure out what was going on at the time.

 

I will begin investigating a variety of things from your great feeback, but as I said in the initial post.....things were fine, and the 'Restricted Performance' message pops up after I drive on the interstate at higher speeds(65-72); it goes away after I slow down and drive in town/neighborhoods.(25-45)

Strange.....I do notice a noise after I slow down before the 'Restricted Performance' message goes away. Not sure if it's a vac leak I'm hearing, but sounds almost like a rattle, like pennies in a can.

 

Could it be throttle body related?

 

Rattle is commonly catalyst

Shops can test this stuff.

 

Just a note, if you decide to change the plugs also replace your IMT O-rings, there are 2 located at the back of the intake, only an additional $3.00 ea., dealer item only.

 

Ding Ding Ding...

Go to my post.... A clogged or faulty Cat will trigger misfire faults and restricted performance...Take to a Good exhaust shop if you don't deal with a good dealer.. Let them test the cats... I'm gonna bet dollars to donuts that you have the same issue as I did...

That said...The plug change, IMT O-rings ect are still things you really should do anyway...

 

Alright, so here is what the issue appears to be.

While I was replacing the plugs and coils I found the back plug on both sides of the engine were swimming in OIL!!! I'd say that would cause some misfiring. Needless, to say that's above my experience and had AAA come and pick up the car and drop it off at my mechanic. He's going to replace all the seals and put her back together.

We'll see if there are any other issues once he zips it up.

Thanks for your feedback and I will post results in the coming days after he reports back to me.