Hello to board, Want to replace TPS on wifes 2005 S-type 3.0 , Seems there's a 5 sided screw that is the mounting screw. Tried the torex, no go. No SAE allen or metric allen fits. Was able to remove the top screw with vise grips, but the bottom one is not easily to get to. Any tips beside cut off wheel and making a slot? It's in a place where my dremel won't reach. Is there a tool that fits this type of screw? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.(Don't want to bugger up the head by pounding a torex bit in there.)

 

Here you go:

 

Thank You for the Help. John..

 

The good ol' tamper proof 5 point - not so tamper proof now.....

 

Well, I replaced the TPS and a slew of codes appeared on the instrument panel.(cruise not avail., no dcs, abs, just to name a few. Put the old one back on and the codes disappeared.
cleaned the connections again with electrical contact spray. Put the new (Never Ever Worked)back on and the codes came back. I just now disconnected the battery. Maybe that might help before a Hard Reset is required. Any Thoughts Guys? Thanks.. John..

 

Generally no-one replaces them and has no need to. Sounds like you also should not.

 

Um, why were you replacing the TPS in the first place? What was wrong with it?

The following may be applicable for installing the new one, not 100% sure:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ection-176446/

 

this is a long shot since your post was long ago, but my husband replaced my tps on my 03 jaguar stype V8 today and we have the same problem, please let me know what solved your issue, was it the battery? My car did sit for several weeks before until we replaced the part..ours definitely needed replaced all signs let to it plus we noticed someone stripped a screw and there was a hole in the sensor..but now this so frustrating this damn car. thank you and hope to hear back from you.

 

Welcome to the Forum Darryl-

We need a little information first....

What year and trim level is your vehicle.

Why did your husband change it in the first place?

Thanks

 

She's said it's an '03 S-type V8

 

03 Jaguar stype V8 4,2 I have been running in restricted performance with both lean codes and was driving it fine, then it started giving me a hard time in the morning took about 3 times to start once warmed up not bad but wanted to take off at the stop sign jerking like a bronco lol smelling some catalytic converter, went and had codes read again now Im running Throttle body code which is why I decided to replace the sensor because all symptoms pointed to it and the code for the throttle body did as well and I thought well start with the less expensive, also running catalytic converter code...so now with all this nonsense on the control panel after changing sensor I'm lost, I thought maybe battery was low because I did let it sit until we decided what to do for a few weeks and neglected to start it, I have replaced the MAF sensor plugs fuel filter, Im about to send her off a cliff, although she has never left me stranded I'm at a loss now..it did start after replacing the sensor and the idle was way high but the gas pedal was limp needless to say.. so thanks for listening...and I do read a lot of these forums.

 

Ignoring the lean codes makes no sense and may well have caused damage to such as catalysts.

You may have an air leak or a fuel problem (bad pump, etc). There are lots of helpful posts already about these sorts of things which you can read.

 

+1 to this about damaging the converters They can only take excessive heat for a limited amount of time.

Sorry Robinus-

It was late. Too much Pink Floyd last night.

Darryl,

It might help the experts here if we could get the specific codes you HAD plus any that you have now. If you have been driving with P0420 and a P0430 for a great deal of time, you may have already plugged the converters to the point that air can barely pass though. If you think of your engine as an air pump..If you can’t get air out..you can't get air in.

If you want to stick with the car, consider replacing the converters first. I know the mindset is they are crazy money but from reading your previous post..you've kind of thrown the credit card at it already.

Rock auto has converters for your 4.2 for under $200.00 per side. Pretty easy bolt on. A local Exhaust shop might even do the entire job for less.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...converter,5808

 

Never enough Pink Floyd, and what I meant was the code for the gas pedal sensor maybe too much of something else for me lol I did have an air leak check done and "Nothing: also a fuel pressure test it did show the pump running a lil under what it should but I do have the paperwork from the gal I got the car from and the fuel pump is not but maybe 2years old so that would suck..codes P0121 P0420 P0170 P0174 so maybe I will have him put the old TPS back on so I can drive it to a muffler shop and have um look at the Catalytic Converter Thanks for dealing with the female ;-) I thought getting the car for 1500 was a deal but these cars are well I won't say it on here, One thing I still don't understand is why all these crazy codes when the TPS sensor gets replaced, Will disconnecting the battery help this? Ok well have a gret weekend with great Music! and thanks so much for the info On the converters not bad price at all!

 

Did you use the same manufacturer for the new one.....that is denso for denso or Bosch for Bosch.....these car are finicky for original oem engine management parts..,..i tried a Bosch maf sensor on my car when it came with denso and all kinds of trouble erupted....missing, lean codes, bad idle.......got the denso one and car runs great

 

That's a good point because those codes are showing fuel trim issues and running lean on bank B.

 

I was getting the lean codes on both banks on and off before I even replaced the Maf sensor when I took it to the shop for diagnoses and they changed the fuel filter the code went away for sometime and the car drove fine and then it came back and thats when I found the Throttle pedal sensor and caddy codes had joined the party and no the TBS is not Denso and obviously the car does not like it so I will order a denso if I can find one, I did look but then said the hell with it, Thanks Again

03 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 160,000 Miles

 

Allrighty then-

Welcome to the machine...

There are a many experts here to help. I'm not sure what you mean by a "code for the gas pedal sensor" There have been some issues with the throttle body in the day but most of those would have already been fixed at Dealers by now. Most of these were a correlation issue between the TPS and the APP. I won't get into this too much as this post might get longer than most folks want to read.

Smoke testing for a vacuum leak was a good idea. It tells us that the primary intake system is in good shape..no split hoses etc. The fuel pressure thing gives me a spot of bother. These vehicles are hyper critical to fuel pressure. If it needs to be 55psi..it needs to be that. Changing your filter seemed to give a short time of respite but have someone read your actual fuel pressure at idle and full throttle.

When you take your car to the exhaust shop make sure they use a scope to look into the convertor. It seems a bit counter intuitive to most but lean codes actually create a much hotter flow than a rich codes. Over fueling cools the exhaust cools,lean codes heat.

$1500.00 for a Jag sounds like a steal. Lets get her fixed and driving down the road.

 

Darryl-

Can we get an update on this?

Thanks.

 

Cannot figure out how to delete a post. So roa I guess is right. I was going to say although it's a necromance i see now, that the angle in which the tps is installed can play a big part in how it plays with the engine. Also it must be airtight and also the Throttle set screw (minimum air intake) which is set from the factory (but is an Allen screw under the black unadjuster cap) can play a big role in the play well. Thirdly the Throttle body sometimes needs reset and it will then work. This is done by simply rotating the spring clockwise and releasing it to it's home position. I've literally had this be the difference between a working engine and a nostart or REStRICTRD PERFORMANCE mode.