Yor can use a very long screw driver and put your ear to the handle and touch the metal end to the injectors and listen for electrical "Clicking" sounds to hear if it might be opening
Also pull the spark plugs first and check for ones that aren't firing so you can norrow it down.
You can remove the fuel rails and lift out the injectors but that can be too much work. Try one 20 oz bottle of Techron concentrated and one tank of 91 or 93 octane. If one tankfull starts to help , you have a clogged fuel injector. It takes time and it will not damage your motor.
Do not rev the engine over 2000 rpms when your parked. It may take several runs of the engine at 10 minute at a time for several days.It slowly gets so it idles smoothly. The ECM will reset the engine when it can get back to normal. If it doesn't reset , disconnect the negative poll on th e battery foy 10 minutes and get it back on without sparking it too much. Set the radio to your settings or shut it off. Also the alarm may go off and the seat will need to be reset. Press fab button to shut alarm off. I hope it is only the clogged ejector.

 

The problem with testing your way is if I won't keep my foot on gas it will chock it self.

 

This I find very hard to believe. With the intake tube off of a (ahem) running motor, the unmetered air would definetly throw something.

 

Get a helper to hold the gas pedal. It sounds like its getting clogged up. Check the plugs that are not firing and go from there to check the fuel injectors.
Fuel injectors do not fail that much.They just get coated with crap and do not spray the fuel with in the cone shape that gives you the steady smooth firing.
Remember the computer can only do so much for the timing when the engine will not be firing on all eight.

 

This doesn't sound like bad injectors at all- they don't suddenly go off in bunches.

 

His engine sounded like one cylinder was not firing to me. But being there may sound different. I tend to start with the small things first. But then again he has I think he said 86 thousand on th car. Could be bad gas? Or someone dumped something in th tank.

 

So if I would have one cylinder with no compression that's how it would sound?

 

It sounded like you held it up to the exhaust pipe at the end of the recording and I heard one misfire at each rotation of the engine but it's not that easy. Your ears can hear it better than mine. Any load sounds coming from the engine could be timing chain. I'm not there. Seafoam is another stronger cleaner for engines but your engine didn't start easy so it may not be a good thing to put in the engine at this time. I've heard people say to only use it at night because of the smoke that comes from the tail pipe when you burn it out of the engine.
Google Seafoam engine cleaner and learn how to use it. You must follow the directions which means floodlng the engine with it and turning it off for 15 minutes. Your engine may not start to burn off all the crap that is inside it.
Your oil is the normal color I hope . "Not milk chocolate " like if you blew the head gasket?

 

at the end of recording i took off air intake thats why it changed sound. The first thing i check for is steam out of tail pipes and oil to make sure its clear, oil is good and no steam. just took out all the 8 new stark plugs they were all black and wet.

when checking for compression do i have to put oil in cylinders? thats what they did when i took it too shop a year ago when this all happened they charged me 700 diagnoses fee and said it appears like you might need new engine but we are not sure we need to run more test (for extra charge ofcourse). All i got from them is it sounds like its misfiring.

 

It sounds like you have lots of lube in the cylinders already. You need to have this reposted to the tech section. Maybe BRUTAL has come across this. I guess they didn't tell what was wrong the last time and how it was fixed.And get a different code reader. You should be getting a mess of problem codes? "Iridium"plugs say they tend not to foul easily.
The air intake has to be on the car to run the engine properly ( all electrical connections plugged in!)


Was your car in a heavy rain when you where at work? If so, it may have got something wet in the trunk around the wheel spare tire well. Check your altinator (sp) dry the plugs . There are brands for jaguar that say they don't foul as easy as others.

 

I understand that it needs to be one the only reason I took it off to see the change which wasn't that big, (Xtype dies almost right way). no there was no rain that that, the shop that I took it to when this all just happened never fixed the problem it has been seating in my garage for more than a year now. Thank you for the tips

 

Hope the gas is new? Good luck?
A little oil might help give you get a better reading . But some how I don't think you would have that problem at 86,000 miles.
The car has been sitting a long time. Maybe it needed a carbon cleaning a year ago.

 

here is an update, took driver side LH (bank B) valve cover off and here is what i discovered . . .

Where would be best place to buy chain and tensioner? should i go ahead and replace bank A too? where would be best place to rent tools to set timing? two local Jag dealer don't have this tools for sale or to loan, found em on ebay for like 100 for 30 day rent any body knows place for cheaper?
thanks in advance

 

Nasty!
You need to do a compression check before doing much more, there's a good chance of valve damage now.

 

Before I opened it up I checked compression and cylinder #5 had 0 but that's coz exhaust valves were open.

 

Ouch, hope there's no secondary damage. I was really hoping that I was wrong about the mechanical problem guess.

 

Back when I did my tentioners "0nly did the top two" I was told that these secondary haven't been going on the s-type, by the Jaguar place. I had very slight wear on the bottom side of both at between 45 and 50 thousand miles.
At least both secondary tentioners should be changed plus the worn chain.
There are whole kits at several web dealers. I do not trust EBay because of some bad dealers that I have run into with other than car stuff.
I hope you didn't have valve damage!

PS If you had valve cover oil leaks befour this you want to look into new cover kits from a Jaguar dealer because they warp and don't seal even with new gaskets. I had trouble with the driver's side sealing and the new cover solved it.

 

Without reading through every thing you said the chains are tight. Which does not meen it didnt jump time. Do i understand that youve already replaced the upper tensioners? If no a plastic slipper coming off and going between the sprocket and chain will jump time many times and streach the chain too. Did you check the timing while you had it apart by checking the flats on the cams lining up? Im still at the mistimed spot.

 

update on my status
Got new chains and tensioners yesterday installed them today fired her up and WOW she RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! at first she was smoking real bad then it went away, let her run for couple minutes then took her out on the road reverse worked fine but when i put in drive nothing happens, i have to put it in 4 or 3 for her to go forward and when it engages in to drive there is a hit. while i was driving around it shifted good. any ideas? it worked good before this brake down.
BIG THANKS TO ALL OF YOU WHO HELPED ME OUT ON THIS ONE.

 

^^^^ your trans shifter cable is streached and too loose to engage drive properly. Fix it now before you smoke the trans because it bleeds off line pressure when not fully engaged. You pull the center console and adjust with by loosening the 2 big nuts where the cable bolts to the shifter. You want even play on both sides of neutral so that neutral notch falls in the middle of the play.....follow?