I have searched and learned a lot but there are many questions that I can't seem to find the answer to...

Is short is I found a shop that charges $75 to do the trans service assuming I bring all the parts and fluid. He claims he has a transmission pump machine that would work for the STR (he didn't actually look at it) so I'm trying to determine if this is an option.

There was a thread that said you should let the tranny drain overnight to get all the fluid out, would this pump machine be able to get out all the fluid?

There was a link that had all of the parts including MOST of the fluid...I noticed there was an trans pan included...I'm sure there's a valid reason so educate me, why do you need a new pan?

What's the short version of the debate to use ZF fluid vs others such as redline?

 

The pan includes the built-in filter.

There's no short version of the oil debate

The ZF stuff is now quite cheap e.g. from LR.

No idea about the pump unless you explain which type it is.

Overnight will drain more fluid but not all (think torque convertor, oil cooler and lines to it).

 

Having wrestled with a ZF autobox ATF change myself, if that's what it be, I have some experience.
Those expensive ATF pumps are att. to the cooler lines by the mechanic and claim to get around 95% or better of the old ATF out rightaway. Make sure they have the proper device, not just a pump to FILL the autobox. There seems to be a visual indication of when the old fluid is all out. Old fluid can be left in the torque converter and the cooler otherwise. Said to be a litre or so.
Letting the autobox drain overnight is said to get an extra half litre or more of the old fluid out of it; not as good as the mechanic's pump, but better than an immediate job, and something you can do yourself at home.

With regard to the new ATF fluid, it should be of the type intended for the continuously-slipping torque converter clutch design. It has a special additive to deaden "shudder" from said clutch. And yes, there is no need to be ripped-off for the new fluid. There's plenty of the right stuff available at a modest price.

A trick to get the fluid level right easily is as follows:--
Provided the autobox hasn't been leaking, save every scrap of old ATF and measure it in terms of litres, two decimal places ok. Then you pump in exactly the same amount of new ATF, which means the fluid level is right without any complicated hot-measuring. The ATF expands and contracts considerably with temperature due to the viscosity improvers. If the level is too low, there will be shifting problems. If you had shifting problems with the old fluid, or leaks, do the level check by the book, not by the 'easy' method. Needles to say, if there is a leak, fixit.
The oil pan has a filter in it, hence the need to change it.
If your new ATF is full and proper synthetic, poly-alpha-olefin, (strongly advised if you do towing or live in a very hilly region) you will be good for another 60,000mile. Keeping the ATF temperature down will extend its service life. I have a dedicated thermometer on my autobox, visible on the dashboard. It shows for instance considerable temp. rise when stuck in heavy traffic, or hill-climbing etc. On motorwayhighway trips at 60mph., the temp. is around 85*C. Stuck in traffic it can rise to 109*C. It helps to slip into neutral if held up for long, thereby reducing torque converter drag and heating.

Leedsman.

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OP, do not let a/the mechanic use the trans. flush machine on your Jag! Doing so can screw up your ZF trans. jagv8 and Leedsman laid it concisely...read the threads, write down the procedure in flowchart form...and you'll find the trans. swap not so big a job afterall.

 

Educate me...How does it screw it up?

 

A trans. flush may force debri built up over the years into the clutch packs, etc. Just let her drain overnight.

 

I'd like to know that one as well.

I haven't read any of the threads in a while but as I remember them you have to get the fluid to a proper level at a specific temperature correct?

What a PITA.

With no dipstick or any other way to check the level while it's running I guess you don't really know for certain if your current fluid level is correct when you begin to drain it.

So measuring the same exact amount of fluid at the same temperature for replacement puts you back to where your were when you drained it. Hopefully it was correct. This makes me a bit uneasy.

Leedsman says he's used the the tranny flush machines on this tranny or another?

My preference is for a full flush but you still have to drop the pan for a new filter. That's generally a good idea anyway so that you can see if there's any gunk at the bottom of the pan.

 

This sounds like an old wives tale.

But I suppose if we can find out what pressure is utilized by the flusher then we can determine if that's even possible. If it's the same as the tranny's own pump then I don't see how that's possible.

You are supposed to drop the pan, clean it and replace the filter as well.

The goal is fluid exchange not pressure blasting.

 

Just curious, what does the Jaguar dealership do?

 

I recall others in this forum mentioning their ZF's were not able to tolerate a trans. flush...I too was advized not to perform this prior to my trans. drain and re-fill. Check the threads.

 

Bacardi, believe it or not, Jaguar's official standing is: There's no need to service the trans. i.e. No drain, flush, nor re-fill..."Sealed for life". This is mentioned in the owners manual. If a problem arises...replace the trans. Period.

 

I've seen a few posts where folks are saying they brought their car to the dealer for trans squak they changed the fluid...Most recent one that comes to mind was the dude who was complaining that his warranty wouldn't pay for it...Just wondering what Jag dealership is doing, using a pump, draining most of the fluid or letting it sit overnight...

The overnight thing is really a pain for me since I only have one car and I'd still need to find a place who would allow it to stay overnight...

 

Here's an interesting post I found about BG's flushing machine. I've had a couple of trannys flushed with their machines before without incident.

"Jaguar doesn't recommend flushing the trans at all. BG man recommends using their machine and their fluid, I'm not so sure about that. He says that their one fluid replaces all other kinds. When changing the trans, we use a fluid flush through the cooler lines, and then blow out with air.

The BG machine does not push fluid through, it uses the front trans pump to circulate the new fluid in and the old fluid out, keeping the correct pressure in the trans."

So in that case I can't see how that's going to blow out a bunch of debris.

On the other hand, since this transmission is so sensitive to fluid level I'd like to hear from someone who's used the BG machine on this transmission to see how they make certain the fluid level is correct.

I'm all for getting every drop of the old crap out of there.

"Sealed for lifetime use", yeah just how long is that ?

 

As this thread winds the precipitant is differing information and communications regarding the ZF and Jag itself. Not having a facility to let her drain till the next day is totally understood...or...just go and have the trans. flushed then filled?

 

Have you ever had a car serviced with one of these machines?

For the BG machine a can of additive is added before the procedure and then the fluid is exchanged not flushed with the machine via the cooler hoses.

For this transmission I think it is well warranted to check and see if it is even possible to get the fluid to the correct level. I would hope so.

It might not be so.

Dealers tend to do what the factory directs.

BTW, I would think that a decent shop might let you drop the car off at 4:00pm and let it drain overnight so that you can pick it up the next day by 4:00pm. If that's too long for you well ...

 

Exactly Bob. "Standard" auto boxes can have the flush machine connect at the trans. cooler, then a refill with the machine but with the benefit of a trans. dip stick to check trans. fill capacity. One would not be assured a flush/fill machine would adequately measure/deliver to a ZF. This is a trans that must have its drain/fill port used in consideration of the measure of fluid deleted then added...along with operation of engine and trans engaged when doing so. We must not look at the ZF as a "standard" automatic trans. It has its unique intricacies. I wouldn't attemp a machine trans. flush/fill. Let her drip overnight, refill her as we all described the next morning.

 

Well here is Jaguars instructions for flushing the transmission. As you can see they just really drain and change the fluid twice and call it good!

If customers express a concern of a squeal or squeak noise heard during gearshifts whilst
accelerating, the transmission needs to be flushed and the fluid replaced. Follow the workshop
procedure outlined below.

Note: Please inform the customer that the squeal or squeak noise may persist until the
vehicle has covered at least 20 miles. This is to allow the transmission fluid to flow
through all areas of the transmission.
Workshop Procedure

1 Raise vehicle on a four-post ramp.
2 Place clean drain container under the transmission.
3 Undo and remove the transmission drain plug and allow fluid to drain.
4 Clean, install and tighten transmission drain plug to 8Nm.
5 Transfer transmission fluid from container to a suitable measuring jug, measure quantity and
discard transmission fluid.
6 Clean measuring jug.
7 Measure equivalent quantity of new transmission fluid into the clean measuring jug.
8 Undo and remove filler plug using special tool 307-452.
9 Using a clean syringe, fill the transmission with some of the measured fluid to filler plug level.
10 Turn ignition 'ON'.
11 Ensure the selector lever is in 'P' and the handbrake is applied.
12 Start the engine.
13 Immediately fill the transmission with remainder of the measured new transmission fluid.
14 Install and tighten transmission filler plug.
15 Apply footbrake.
16 Shift through selector lever positions from 'P' to 'R', 'N' and 'D' and back to 'N'.
17 With the selector lever in 'N', operate engine at 1500 rpm for one to two minutes.
18 Return selector lever to 'P'.
19 Release footbrake.
20 Switch off engine.
21 With the drain container under the transmission, undo and remove the transmission drain plug.
22 Allow transmission fluid to drain.
23 Remove and discard the transmission drain plug seal.
24 Clean the transmission drain plug.
25 Install a new transmission drain plug seal.
26 Install and tighten transmission drain plug to 8Nm.
27 Clean excess fluid from the transmission fluid pan.
28 Transfer transmission fluid from container to the measuring jug, measure quantity and discard
transmission fluid.
29 Clean measuring jug.
30 Measure equivalent quantity plus 0.5 Litre of new transmission fluid into the clean measuring jug.
31 Undo and remove filler plug using special tool 307-452.
32 Using a clean syringe, fill the transmission with some of the measured fluid to filler plug level.
33 Position WDS alongside vehicle, switch Portable Test Unit (PTU) 'ON' and allow software to load.
34 Connect PTU to vehicle using diagnostic cable.

 

I'll have to slog through that refill procedure when I have some more time to see if you couldn't just adjust the fluid level accordingly at the end of using the BG machine.

If someone has a good explanation of how that machine could damage this transmission other than the improper fill level I'd like to hear about it.

The internet is rife with misinformation so I always tend to take the Missouri approach.

 

That's what I do for coolant exchange but more than twice and I use distilled water until it looks pretty darn clear. Then I add enough pure coolant to make it a 50/50 mix.

I don't know if there are any totally effective block drains on that engine but mouse mechanic refuses to crawl in there to check it out.

 

What kind of fluid is the flushing machine going to put in? Is it possible to choose or do you have to use the one size fits all fluid that the machine is filled with.