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Transmission Additive- Where can it be found?

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  #21  
Old 01-26-2012, 11:22 AM
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Oh! Well drifting adaptions resulted in a TSB and it means a reflash. Supposedly only needed once.

Another thought. The problem could be evidence of a problem elsewhere - specifically the engine.

During gearshifts the TCM & PCM exchange quite a lot of messages. TCM requests reduced torque, PCM responds and so on. It's to help shifts be smoother. TCM also does stuff internally with solenoids etc. Even a smallish engine problem can marginally mess this up.

Trouble is, hunting around the sensor values etc is very time-consuming, if it is something like that.

On another auto, the standard advice was to clean the MAF. And it was usually that. (This was a car with the old-fashioned - silly - routing of PCV vapours. The S-Type isn't the same.)
 
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:26 AM
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Tom,

I have had different Jaguar service personnel as well as ZF managers tell me that the "bark" or "squawk" is simply a noise nuisance and will not damage your transmission in any way. It is essentially the clutch packs momentarily grabbing, then releasing....
 
  #23  
Old 01-26-2012, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon89
Tom,

I have had different Jaguar service personnel as well as ZF managers tell me that the "bark" or "squawk" is simply a noise nuisance and will not damage your transmission in any way. It is essentially the clutch packs momentarily grabbing, then releasing....
I expect the same guys will say that the fluid never needs to be changed.
 
  #24  
Old 01-26-2012, 12:10 PM
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And they'll even sell you a new transmission
 
  #25  
Old 01-26-2012, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Norri
I expect the same guys will say that the fluid never needs to be changed.
I a at 56.700 miles and other then the noise have really no problems with the car other than a very small oil pan gasket leak, which I am going to get fixed on my extended warranty, along with a malfunctioning door lock. I clean the MAf once a month and I have no IMT leakage.

I am just one that thinks when I hear a noise in something as complex as a transmission that should not be there- that a potential problem exists. I, by common sense have a problem with the idea of lifetime fluid, so if I cannot get the additive and short of having a fluid change is there really any danger other than an occasional noise?

Tom
 
  #26  
Old 01-26-2012, 11:41 PM
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Default I have "the hoot"

My 2005 S-Type 4.2 makes "the hoot" when shifting into third, usually when accelerating into a turn. For what it is worth, the owner of John's Jaguar in San Francisco, who noticed the sound before I did, told me not to worry about it.

When it's time, I'll have the transmission fluid replaced to get rid of the noise.
 
  #27  
Old 02-06-2012, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman
I wanted to get the transmission additive per TSB NUMBER: JTB00070 VERSION 1. The Plano, TX. jag dealer in Plano Tx. says they can no longer get the product. Any idea as to where it can be found. I will do much on a car, but this procedure and getting the temperatures right is something I want to leave for a dealer or mechanic with a lift.


Thanks

Tom in Dallas
2005 S-Type 3.0 57,600 miles


Just for your info on the TSB


Your Vehicle: 2005 Jaguar S-Type (X200) V6-3.0L


A/T - Squawk/Chirp Noise On Shifts


NUMBER: JTB00070
VERSION 1

MODEL: S-TYPE, XJ, XK
DATE: DECEMBER 5, 2007
THIS BULLETIN, ALONG WITH JTB00071, REPLACES JTB00040 VERSION 2, DATED 31 JULY 2007.
SECTION: 307-01
Transmission Noise During Gear Shifts - Repair Procedure
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ELP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]

AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE
CONDITION SUMMARY:
SQUAWK/CHIRP NOISE DURING TRANSMISSION GEAR SHIFTS
Situation:
The customer may complain of a squawk noise from the automatic transmission when changing into third gear. The noise may also occur on kick-down from fourth to third and sixth to third gears. A squawk or chirp noise can also be heard when changing from third to fourth gear at 50% throttle. The likely cause is that the 'E' clutch sticks and releases when engaging and disengaging gear.
Action:
Should a customer express concern about noise during gear shifts, follow the Repair Procedure below to remedy it using the additive.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ELP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image002.gif[/IMG]

PARTS
NOTE: The additive must only be used in the following cases:
^
To fix a transmission noise during gearshifts (squawk).
^
It must only be used once in a transmission. The exception to the "use once" rule is if the transmission has had a complete fluid change, where a second application may be used on a customer complaint of transmission squawk.
NOTE: The additive must not be used in the following circumstances:
^
It must not be used in an attempt to fix any other transmission concerns, for example noises other than squawk, harsh transmission shifts, or Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) logged in the transmission control module.
^
The additive must not be used on any cars from 2006 MY onwards starting with VINS S-TYPE: N52048, XJ Range: H00332, New XK: ALL vehicles.
^
The additive must not be used more than once in a transmission apart from the exception described in the second bullet of the NOTE above.
^
Do not use the additive as a preventative measure. It must not be used unless there is transmission noise during gearshifts (squawk) present.
^
Do not add the fluid during initial oil fill when a new or remanufactured transmission is installed.
^
The effects of using the additive incorrectly as outlined above may be reduced friction of the clutches leading to poor shift quality, logged DTCs, and it can also induce flare.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ELP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image003.gif[/IMG]

WARRANTY
NOTE: Repair procedures are under constant review, and therefore times are subject to change; those quoted here must be taken as guidance only. Always refer to DDW to obtain the latest repair time.
DDW requires the use of causal part numbers. Labor only claims must show the causal part number with a quantity of zero.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
TRANSMISSION NOISE SERVICE
CAUTION: If the service fix label is already attached to the transmission oil pan, the Repair Procedure in this bulletin should NOT be carried out. Performing the procedure a second time can cause severe damage to the transmission.
1.
Raise vehicle on a four-post ramp.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ELP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image005.jpg[/IMG]

2.
If an S-TYPE vehicle is being repaired, remove the engine undertray. (Figure 1)
3.
Place clean drain container under the transmission.
CAUTION: The transmission must be cold before removing the fluid drain plug. The drain plug must not be fully removed as only one liter of fluid is to be collected.
NOTE: Illustrations show XJ Range. S-TYPE and XK are similar.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ELP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image007.jpg[/IMG]

4.
Undo and partially remove the transmission fluid drain plug. (Figure 2)
5.
Collect one liter (33.8 oz) of fluid from the transmission into a clean measuring jug.
6.
Reinstall and tighten the transmission fluid drain plug to 8 Nm (5.9 lbf-ft).
7.
Ensure the selector lever is in 'P' and the handbrake is applied.
8.
Start the engine and allow to idle.
9.
Unscrew transmission filler plug and fill with one liter of the additive (C2C 37157) using a clean syringe.
10.
Install filler plug.
11.
Pull the service fix label off the bottle and apply it to the transmission oil pan near the filler plug. (Figure 3)
12.
If an S-TYPE vehicle is being repaired, install the engine undertray. (Figure 1)
NOTE:
Global Technical Reference (GTR) lookup sequence is as follows:
GTR Home> NAS > (select vehicle and year) / Service Information > Workshop Manuals> Bookmarks Powertrain/Automatic Transmission/Transaxle/307-01 Automatic Transmission/Transaxle "LINK Fluid Level Check"
13.
Refer to GTR Workshop Manual, section: 307-01 and check / top-up the transmission fluid level.
One thing I have learned over the years; “compatible with” is not the same as “identical too”.

Don’t mix brands of fluids at all. Not even greases. Particularly in motor vehicles. Each manufacturer has their own chemical compositions/recipes if you will, and a chemical in one may react with a different chemical in another. I have seen wheel bearings fail (at high speed) because a different (supposedly ‘compatible’) grease was used to top up the ‘packing’ in it. The slightly different chemical composition resulted in liquefaction of the lot once the bearing warmed up. The seal wasn’t up to holding back thinned liquid, and the bearing actually seized. It was on the rear wheel of a small motorbike, and I was doing about 60mph when it happened. Thank god it wasn’t the front wheel.

With fluids & oils, the more likely effect is ‘sludging’, and this can not only remove some of the lubrication qualities, but can also cause blockages. I’ve recently seen a gearbox where the converter oil pump actually seized, and there were two labels on the windscreen for the fluids: one a few years older than the other, both different brands. There were some minor signs of overheating to the box, but no sign of any problems with the coolers or flows. My guess is that the overheating was coming from the operating conditions in the pump. The vane in the pump, even though it runs in fluid all the time, had finally seized to the body sufficiently that the converter then shattered it into about a dozen pieces.

Clearly there was a problem with a particular gearbox fitted to some (Jaguar?) cars, and the problem ‘cure’ would have more likely been the result of advice from the gearbox manufacturer, not Jaguar. It may be that some component was not manufactured to quite the right tolerance. And their warning/exception of a complete fluid change makes sense. If you are going to switch brands thoroughly drain/clean ALL of the old fluids and replace completely. I saw somewhere in the thread that someone was using a ‘mix’. I’d strongly recommend that unless you are an industrial chemist or chemical engineer who not only can write up the chemical formula that the mix creates and has carried out full laboratory tests on the fluids, DON’T. And if you are ‘caught short’ somewhere out in the backblocks and have to use something else just to get you home, drain, flush, & refill at the very earliest opportunity.

Besides, if the problem persists and you don’t fix it, then some greater failure will manifest itself, and quite likely at a more inconvenient time and/or location.

Prevention is better than cure, and usually cheaper, too.

Cheers,

Languid
 
  #28  
Old 02-06-2012, 05:27 PM
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I take it I am that "someone".

I am currently running the mix of Lifeguard6 and approx. 7 1/2 US Quarts Castrol Multi Import in Joyces gear box. For well over a year and half and some 15,000 milesish. Our S Type has had zero, zip, nada issues since the mix!

I also have read on this forum through different Techs that they to have run a mix in their clients vehicles without problems.

I am not going to get into it about "which transmission fluid should I use" in my ZF6HP26 gearbox. I read for many hours and spoke to a couple of indys, before Joyce and I maded the decision to do the mix. At the time LifeGuard was $62.00 a Litre.

I am not disqualifying your above post, makes sense, but again so far no issues what so ever in our 2005 S Type since the mix.
 
  #29  
Old 02-06-2012, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by plums
According to Brutal ... he doesn't sleep much
Poor bugger, no wonder. We all keep deferring to him; I know I refer others to him for advice. But if we started paying him, he'd probably leave the dealership!!

Languid
 
  #30  
Old 02-06-2012, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
I take it I am that "someone".

I am currently running the mix of Lifeguard6 and approx. 7 1/2 US Quarts Castrol Multi Import in Joyces gear box. For well over a year and half and some 15,000 milesish. Our S Type has had zero, zip, nada issues since the mix!

I also have read on this forum through different Techs that they to have run a mix in their clients vehicles without problems.

I am not going to get into it about "which transmission fluid should I use" in my ZF6HP26 gearbox. I read for many hours and spoke to a couple of indys, before Joyce and I maded the decision to do the mix. At the time LifeGuard was $62.00 a Litre.

I am not disqualifying your above post, makes sense, but again so far no issues what so ever in our 2005 S Type since the mix.
Rick,

Yes, I guess you were, although I wasn't having a 'shot' at you at all. I was just sounding a general warning for (particularly) 'newchums' and/or gener DIY'ers. I was on a freeway on that bike, 48 years ago, and no where near a lottery shop.

I'm very pleased to hear that you have not had any issues, and always interested in others experiences with modifications. Today's manufacturers are controlled by the bean counters, not the engineers, so often we get product which is manufactured to a price & not perhaps quite what the engineers would have desired. It then takes an 'outsider' to come up with a substitute that does the same job, but better. (And sometimes I'd like to see the desiging engineers get to spend 6 months in a workshop learning about repairing some of that which they designed!! Without protective gloves.)

But the words of warning are real. I'd suggest pulling the pan off the box, and just checking for signs of sludging somewhere in the near future. I've been out of aircraft for a long time, but you do learn not to take chances with mechanical things in that game.

Regards,

Languid
 
  #31  
Old 02-07-2012, 02:15 AM
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It's the bean counters who ought to do the repair work. Though you have to wonder at engineers who insist on an oil which was in the $62/litre price range! (Except maybe it was a tenth that until marked up by ZF and only available via ZF. Where were the anti-monopoly authorities???)

Gear box oil doesn't run especially hot so I'd be less worried about mixing it, though now that LifeGuardFluid 6 has dropped in price a lot maybe it's just safer to use it.
 
  #32  
Old 02-07-2012, 06:54 AM
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I have also done considerable research on the six-speed ZF box and would have absolutely no qualms using Castrol or Mobil One when drain-and-fill time rolls around. But as Lifeguard 6 continues to drop in price, the odds increase that I will stay with it. We'll see....

My biggest concern now is that we went from just one ZF box (on our S-Type) to two ZF boxes (on our recently-acquired XK8). So i now own two known-to-be-quirky transmissions that have no dipstick or fill tube and require Rube Goldberg-like procedures to drain-and-fill. Much as my wife loves her new-to-her XK8, I am not thrilled about having two ZFs in our stable....
 
  #33  
Old 02-07-2012, 08:42 AM
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Does it have the same shifter bolts on the trans side?
 
  #34  
Old 02-07-2012, 09:37 AM
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John,

I have not had the XK8 up on my ramps yet (probably will be doing that tomorrow, though, as I have to make a headrest motor cable repair inside the passenger seat and will take the time to ramp the car and crawl around underneath it in an effort to gain some familiarity). But I do expect our XK8's ZF to be identical to our S-Type's ZF. Including the two shift cable bolts. If I find any differences in configuration, I'll post them here....

Our S-Type's ZF has never "lurched". Neither has our XK8's ZF (my wife has done about 300 miles on her XK8 since it landed in our driveway last Friday night). Sure hope it remains that way....
 

Last edited by Jon89; 02-07-2012 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:58 AM
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The XK8 does have the same two bolts.
Reverend Sam points them out in his fluid change video.
 
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  #36  
Old 02-07-2012, 12:57 PM
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Figured as much - thanks.
 
  #37  
Old 02-12-2012, 12:58 PM
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Another follow-up. The OP referred to version 1 of the TSB. Not really a good idea, as it was superseded by Version 2 in February 2009.

The revised TSB does NOT require any additive or oil change or the like. It is only TCM software-related. The adaptions are cleared and relearned (by driving on a flat road, IDS connected, and watching tick boxes, 3 times). I think the TCM is reflashed immediately after the adaptions are cleared but the TSB refers to an IDS I haven't got so I'm uncertain.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 02-12-2012 at 01:01 PM.
  #38  
Old 07-25-2012, 06:37 AM
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Default zf gearbox lifegard 1 additive

Don't know if this is of any help, but I contacted a zf agent in the uk and they said the following :-
Hi David

We have contacted a different person at ZF, who has said we can now get hold of this.
Very sorry about this, it appears we were given some incorrect information.

As my previous email said, we do have 1x 1litre Bottle in stock. We can supply this at £19.90 +VAT as previously quoted.
However, now we have been told we can buy it, it turns out the sale price for any other bottles is £91.06 + VAT now.

Regards

Matt Hyne
Sales Executive
Sussex Auto Parts Ltd
Tel: 0044 [0] 1323 848886
Fax: 0044 [0] 1323 843487

www.sussexautos.com

I would assume it's available in the US as well, but the suppliers in the UK are:
John Mackie Automatic Transmissions
95 Causewayside Street
Tollcross
Glasgow, G32 8LT
Tel: 0141 778 4545
Fax: 0141 778 4476
http://www.mackie-transmission.com
Alliance Automatic Company
3 The Pilton Estate
Pitlake
West Croydon, CR0 3RY
Tel: 0208 680 6802
Fax: 0208 686 3381

J P (Automatic Transmissions) Ltd
Units 4a & 4b Pear Tree Industrial Estate
Upper Langford
N Somerset, BS40 5DJ
Tel: 01934 852 772
Fax: 01934 852 211
http://www.jpat.co.uk
Sussex Auto Parts Ltd
Units 40-44
Station Road Industrial Estate
Hailsham
Sussex, BN27 2EY
Tel: 01323 848 886
http://www.sussexautos.co.uk
Auto Suppliers Ltd
Edwin Avenue
Hoo Farm Industrial Estate
Kidderminster
Worcestershire
DY11 7RA
Tel: 01562 865577
Fax: 01562 865588
http://www.autosuppliers.co.uk
Automatic Choice Ltd
ACL House
Coombend
Radstock
BA3 3AS
United Kingdom
Telephone: ++44 (0)1761 436688
www.automaticchoice.com
Vanmatic Ltd
1 Viveash Close
Hayes
Middlesex
UB3 4RY
United Kingdom
Telephone:++44 (0)208 8489911
www.vmtp.com
 
  #39  
Old 07-27-2012, 03:00 PM
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And a reminder for those reading this thread and who haven't heard it before. Someone a while ago coined the phrase "Sealed for Death". The dealers don't have a procedure for changing the A/T gearbox fluids because the gearboxes are supposedly sealed for life.

Just a reminder to all those who don't know, if you believe that little piece of crap from the dealers, start saving for an expensive gearbox rebuild/replace, because the gearbox will ultimately die at relatively 'young' miles if you don't change the fluid around every 40 to 50 thousand miles.

Cheers,

Languid
 
  #40  
Old 07-27-2012, 04:00 PM
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Ok, at > $120 per litre?!? I'm expecting the rains to stop, the clouds to part, and angels to swoop me off my feet. Naked angels.
So what do the pros think LG6+? Castrol synthetic gear? Motul? Mobil 1?
I'm coming up fast to that change.
Phil did my change last time and used the ZF LG6. but if there is a competing fluid at a cheaper price...
 


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