Well after reading every post on the board about the dreaded pan fluid two-step I finally did the deed. Thanks to all the previous posters who have contributed to this issue. I will try to add to the knowledge base without repeating all the good info already written.

So this will many be about my experience doing the change.

So first, I got the car up on jack stands and ramps but I didn't level the car at that time, instead I removed the pan and gave my garage floor a nice coating of tranny fluid lol I recommend in addition to the biggest oil pan you can find a large busted down cardboard box to catch any drippins. The T40 torx pan bolts which came out without a problem. In fact I was able to use a cheap B&D screw gun to unscrew them in no time. This suggests that work had be done on the tranny before. But I couldn't be sure how long ago or if the filter was changed etc… Even soo I was very happy I didn't need to go through the hell some have with the smaller t27 bolts.

Now that I had the pan off I now had a smooth surface in which to use a level on. I reasoned that the tranny may not be mounted in a perfectly level fashion by the different car manufacturers so it is more important the tranny be level as opposed to the car. Come to find out, the two were close but it was still a hell of a lot easier to get my measurement off of the pan surface then the cars body work.

I did change the sleeve and the old one was really hard to remove. Be patient and make sure you unlock the damn thing first. Pull that white lever down and then use a pair of pliers to pull the sleeve straight out with a slight twisting motion. Mine wasn't leaking but the plastic was getting rather brittle. Be careful to remove the little box attached to the top of the pan surface before you horse on the sleeve or you will break the mounting ear off. (Not that I would ever do something that stoopid but a "friend" did )…. Anyway after repairing the mounting ear, I was now ready to tackle the drain plug.

Everything else had gone pretty smoothly albeit time consuming, well the plug was another story: I sawed off a little 8mm hex wrench and proceed to in order: break an 8mm ratcheting wrench, break a 5/16th wrench (very close in size) and bend a 8mm wrench, so I then tig welded the the bit onto a stainless steel rod with stainless welds, which I then broke it trying to get the plug out, Next I took the broken 8mm ratcheting wrench and TIG welded the bit into the wrench and then welded the ratchet immobile - it bent the wrench first time I put any pressure on the plug, sooooo then I cut the wrench off midway and welded it into a stainless square tube with enough stainless to make a table setting I now had the tool from hell. The handle was a foot long and there was no way this was going to bend- it didn't... but the bit rounded off in the hole instead So now I'm screwed, the car has been on the jacks for a week draining and I am still no closer to getting done. I had read in postings about all the different ways to get the plug out but I missed the one about just use an 8mm wrench apparently.
Finally I grabbed an 8mm hex wrench and it fit in the space just fine added a pipe extension and gave a mighty shove…. the plug came out! none the worse for wear i might add.

Now I could proceed with the rest of the job everything else went smoothly. I elected to use redline fluid and my wds (great device full all kinds of goodies) to read the temp. I left a tiny stream running out so maybe it is slightly overfilled (about 6 quarts) but after driving for over a hundred miles it feels like it always did no difference at all. I will report if the redline causes evil spirits to inhabit my tranny but until then I think the job is done.

 

Thanks for sharing.

If your transmission drained for a week, I believe that 6 US QUARTS falls short. When I let ours drain overnight, 7 US QUARTS came out and I put in 7 1/2 US QUARTS back in.

You may want to recheck your fluid level.

 

Sometimes an impacting torque works better than just pulling or pushing on it. I used a hex key and a small sledge and it broke loose after a few hits.

 

One thing that occurs to me is to loosen the top up filler plug before draing the oil or taking off the sump. Then if it wont come out you still have a car to use. I will be just changing some of the fluid without removing the sump, Has anyone tried sucking it out with a vacuum pump.
Not as good as taking the sump off but a lot better than nothing.

 

There is a drain plug, so no need to vacuum it out.

 

That's probably a good idea if you don't have another vehicle to use if there's a problem.

 

I agree, I expected much more fluid to go in, I checked it twice - did a complete cool down and added more fluid and brought it back up to temp. The fluid came rushing out and slowed to a steady small stream. At this point I put the plug in. I am gonna drive it for a short time and check it again. Im just waiting for the injuries to heal. lol

 

I also have a 2005 STR. If your car has the larger T40 bolts on the pan I think they have been changed in the past. Stock they were T27. I don't think the factory ever installed the larger T40 bolts but found out after dealer feedback that there was a problem in that area.
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It is very possible, the sleeve was the updated design, so I thought maybe some work had been done. But I wasn't sure I will edit the post to reflect some work had been done.

 

Our 2005 granny mobile had (has) the original T40 pan bolts.

 

Anyone in the uk found a source of M1375.4 atf? I can only find it at £22 per litre or much cheaper if I buy 200 litres!

 

Try each of the makers who fit the ZF 6HP26. They'll each have their own part# / name for the oil I expect (how pointless)

I think these may be right:
ZF Lifeguardfluid6 (ZF No. S671 090 255)
AML Oil No. 4G4319A509/AA/S
Audi /VW Oil No. G 055005 A1 / A2 / A6
Bentley Oil No. PY112995PA
BMW Oil No. 8322 0142516
Hyundai Oil No. 040000C90SG
Land Rover Oil No. TYK500050
Maserati Oil No. 231603

I'd start with LR

If you trust a different oil maker, the UK forum mentions Millers.

 

Veeerry interesting….. I wonder if Brutal might be able shed light on wether the bolts are original or replacement I didn't see any TSBs on topix related to this.

 

I think they realised the smaller weren't really the best size and moved to the larger ones part way through production. No TSB would be issued for that.

 

Could be?? My VIN is N19907. JoycesJag what is your VIN? Maybe they did upgrade them but Jaguar sure has been quiet about any changes.
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I believe that our S-Type also has factory-installed T-40 transmission pan bolts. Our VIN is N50192. Next time I'm underneath the vehicle, I'll double-check it. Sooner or later if we keep the car long enough, I'll be changing the ATF. Hope that job is still in the relatively distant future, though. It all depends on how long our factory ZF sleeve continues to remain intact. I know that a leaking sleeve will force the issue....

 

VIN# N38954
MFG Date: 12/04

 

Thanks JagV8, I have found a BMW spares place 'incarmotorfactors' selling Febi ATF at £12 per litre which they say is ok in their similar zf box. I have not heard of either brand before so wonder if anyone has used this or has any comments. Its still twice the price per litre of the 209 litre barrel but I do not want to wash the car with it or bath in it.

 

It's news to me but I don't often hang out on BMW forums LOL

I suppose if it states that its spec is M1375.4 then it ought to be OK.