I have a 2003 S-type automatic with a 3.0 L engine and I'm looking for a used transmission. Do I buy Automatic Transmission 6 Cyl, 181 cid (3.0L) from VIN M45255 or the Automatic Transmission 6 Cyl, 181 cid (3.0L) thru VIN M45254 ? Where can I find online used transmissions?

 

try www.car-parts.com

 

alright, but do I choose thru VIN M45254 or from VIN M45255?

 

Depends on your car's VIN, i.e. which range it is in.

Why do you want a used tranny? They don't often fail so badly they can't be fixed.

 

My VIN ends with M94407, which one do I get. I'm getting a used 1 cuz I can't afford a new one, unless you'd know somewhere that sells new transmissions for equal prices.

 

Agreed! What is your tranny doing or not doing?

 

At that VIN, i.e. after M45255, unless you have a manual box, you should have the ZF 6HP26. But what makes you think it's so faulty it needs replacing? (Various faults are misleading.)

 

All US spec 2003's are post vin M45255.

In europe they got the update a little earlier, and it was called a 2002.5 model. Most cars there aren't refered to by "model year", but moreso by month/year of production.

A lot of parts suppliers cause a lot of headaches, especially on ebay, cause a lot of the 1st gen parts get listed as 00-03, where in he US, they are 00-02 only.

Take care,

George

 

I took it to the dealership and they said my car has vacuum leaks, communication fault with transmission as well as fluid leak at transmission pan, air filter not fitted correctly, my Intake Gaskets need to be replaced, and more issues.

I have a pdf file of all the information from the Jaguar Dealership with all the diagnostic codes and issues that I could email to y'all. It'd be great if 1 of you could look at it and tell what's best to do.

 

You can attach it to a post if you Go Advanced.

 

here's the pdf with all the details

 

OMG.

Im just FLOORED.

Some of those prices are insane.

A good weekend of DIY work, you can bang out the oil pan gasket, the trans flush and fill, and the sleeve, and the intake gaskets, (as well as plugs, IMT O-Rings, coils on the hard side etc).
200 to change the air filter and pollen filter u nuts??

There's a couple guys close to you, that might be able to help Specifically Jon89 and Joycesjag (Rick) who have all done this stuff. Hell if you show up at ricks house with $500 worth of cheap beer he might adopt you...

The ONLY thing in this list that has to be done at the dealer is the Transmission flash (but why does it need it).

You're probably looking at about 300-400 in parts including a new trans pan with filter. Then depending on the transmission fluid you use, another $200 or so there.

Let me see if I can summon some help...


EDIT - Rick just realized you're on this thread. Please take a look at that invoice and see if we can help this guy out...

Take care,

George

 

What's best? Follow George's advise. That quote is insane. Even if you took it to a normal garage, there is no way it would cost you that much. The ZF trans is a robust bugger, not known to fail even at over 100k miles. Another thing is read up on the service items that George listed, many of them you may be able to do yourself..

 

So still reeling after reading that quote, which is why dealers (and mechanics in general) have such a reputation as rip off artists. I called my brother. This dealership is either ridiculous or the service writer needs a beating.

It seems like this shop is charging $89.95 an hour labor

Book time is 2.1 hrs on R&R intake manifold. = 188.95
Even if you pay full Jaguar list of $14 a gasket x 12 = 168.00
Let's say they EVEN charge another hour to replace the gaskets while they get the manifold off. (ridiculous, but still). = 89.95

Forget the fact that there is no mention of coils, plugs or IMT O-Rings
Total = 446.90

Now onto the oil pan gasket. Book time = 4.2 hours x 89.95 = 377.79
I think the Jag oil pan gasket lists for $80 = so $457.79 there

The most offensive thing is the trans service.
With the 60 a liter Jag fluid, and the $150 Jag list for the pan, the pan gasket almost makes sense. Books at 1.2 hours = (looks like they are charging for 2.5).

BUT.. once you have the pan off. The connector sleeve is 2 mins. Disconnect the electrical connector, push the release tab, slide it out, slide in the new one, plug the connector back in. The put the pan back. The sleeve lists for $22.

There is NO additional labor besides that. Say they even charge an extra hour for that. This guy wrote the quote as if that was a completely independent procedure all over again.

Let's not go into 1.5 hours to change an air filter an cabin pollen filter... (when the cowl already has to come off to get the manifold off). IF it takes a tech that long, he has no business working at pep boys, no less at a Jaguar Dealership!!!!

I'm still shaking my head at this one.

Don't let this discourage you about the car. If you're willing to learn and can do things yourself you can get the car back to top shape for under $1000.

Take care,

George

 

Funny thing is, those were about the prices I was quoted 2 years ago. As many of you know I have done 85% of that list! Our total price in ALL those parts was something like $500.00, some Jaguar and many aftermarkets.


jcboulos, you need one more post to receive PMs. If you would like to talk, I think we could come to a mutual agreement on taking care of 90% of your pdf file. If you have doubts about my mechanical abilities just read through approx. 500 some posts, (the other 1000 are all BS ) Or just ask these guys! I do live in the Charlotte area, and we would be looking at a day and a half to two days. So post something then PM me, I'd be happy to help!


Damn I wish it were the STR with the leaking coolant line (insert finger snap)!

 

alright, well first of all, I live in Raleigh, and I'm really worried about driving to drive the car to Charlotte because the my Check Engine light's on and the warning light saying restricted performance as well. If you could find some way up here, that'd be great. I'd like to know how much you'd charge me before I decide Rick.

Joel

 

Joel,

I fully vouch for Rick. Look at some of his DIY's on some of the EXACT things your car needs. The man knows what he's doing.

How far a distance are we talking here? Either one of you have AAA Plus? It's almost worth flat bedding the car to him.

Did the dealer tell you what the codes are for and why you're getting restricted performance??

How does the car drive (assuming you take it easy?). If you're getting evap system or EGR leaks no sweat? If you've got missfires galore and cat temp codes, then maybe a long drive isn't such a good idea.

Take care,

George

 

It's 165 miles from my place to Charlotte (about 3 hours of a drive) and depending on where Rick lives will determine how far he exactly is. I don't have AAA, but my insurance covers $100 of towing, and I've used some of that already for another issue that happened to my car last year during the summer.

The pdf on page 3 has a good amount of the details on what some of the codes mean. I think there is a misfire because I was told that there is a miscommunication with the transmission, but whatever happens, we need some sort of lift to deal with the transmission. I still need a price before I decide to do anything though.

 

I'd like to add that on p2 they've marked P1111 as O2B1S1, which if it wasn't WRONG would mean O2 sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 (which would be upstream sensor).

But P1111 is not a fault code, it's a status code - a good one, meaning that all the OBD monitors have run OK.

As they don't know what P1111 means, which is a standard for both Jaguar & Ford, do NOT go back if you can realistically avoid them.

As soon as you can, grab the code PDF from the FAQ area, take a deep breath and slowly look up and read the details of each code. Don't panic and don't believe they are anything other than hints (the PCM's best guess).

I'm going to abrreviate them badly, bear with me.

P0153 relates to bank 2's O2 upstream sensor. P0133 is the same code for the bank 1 equivalent sensor.

P0860 J-gate CAN fault

P1260 security input fault

P1313 misfire rate bank 1

P1314 misfire rate bank 2

P1316 misfire excess emission

P1582 flight recorder data stored (ignore this one)

First - you do NOT have any tranny faults. None. P0860 does NOT relate to the tranny. Ignore it for now, anyway as it will not wreck your car as far as I can see.

Second - you could easily have any (or all!) of these common faults:
1. a failing battery
2. harness (wiring) trouble (chafed, corroded, whatever)
3. a confused PCM but with just one or a few real faults hiding somewhere in the data

I'd get a cheap or cheapish code reader then clear the codes because some of them could be old and also either of the common faults cause misleading codes. Drive the car, sanely because if you DO have genuine faults you don't want to cause damage. See which faults appear, how quickly, and in which order. Post the details.

You should get P1000 once you've cleared the codes. That's normal. It's the opposite of P1111, meaning the OBD monitors have NOT (yet) run OK.

If you don't get any codes (apart from P1000) after two full warmups (engine off, cold, then driven till it's warmed up properly), post anyway. You should have P1111, if you don't then probably one or more monitors are blocked.

I'll explain about monitors if you need to know more but there's a real danger of information overload I suspect.

My usual advice is to buy a very cheap ($20) elm327 OBD tool but it takes a few weeks for them to arrive. Spend a bit more to get either one of them fairly quickly or get a handheld unit. I'm not a fan of the latter so don't own one but for I guess $50 they're probably OK. I've heard people get the MS509 or U281 / 381 / 481 / 581. You're looking for a "generic" OBD II (aka OBD2) unit, nothing fancy. The elm327 can be found on ebay by name or by looking for 327 (I know!). It has an OBD plug and a USB plug. Goes into your PC, so you need a laptop or a desktop that's near enough to your car. And Windows.

AutoZone/PEP boys may be good enough but they don't exist here so I don't know for sure.

 

Alright, first of all, this forum is great. The way you guys step up is tremendous.
JC, I've personally met Rick. One of the nicest, most generous people I've had the privilege to meet...At 3 hours away, consider yourself very lucky indeed.

Also, don't let "restricted performance" scare you. As you said early on, there is probably a vacuum leak that is causing it. Not good to ignore, but your not doing that. On the other hand, it is probably OK to make a journey.
Real quick, restricted performance is not the same as limp home mode. Simply put, restricted performance is like a low threshold governor. You won't be allowed to race it, but it will drive fine if you take it easy... I've had that fault and actually ran errands with the kids in the car... Just couldn't blow away any Honda Civics with it..LOL
Since your misfire codes cover all cyl's my guess is they aren't caused by failing coils or electronics, but as stated, a vacuum leak.. (probably also triggering the MAF sensor faults as well).
So, a summary of what I think is going on in simple terms... There is a vacuum leak that is making it run crappy and triggering a ton of codes... Then you have some common fluid leaks..You also may have something wrong with the j-gate shifter or simply loose linkage cable... But as JagV8 said... worry 'bout the rest first...
So, drive it nice and easy around town to build confidence, use it for parts errands, charge your phone, and take a road trip..If it was mine, I would!