Valve cover
#1
#2
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It looks like you were the guy Jim missed in the intro section and didn't get upgraded.
You need 3 more posts, a visit to the Off Topic section should sort you out, then you can post the pic.
Looks like you made it without the Off Topic stuff.
You need 3 more posts, a visit to the Off Topic section should sort you out, then you can post the pic.
Looks like you made it without the Off Topic stuff.
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Last edited by Norri; 06-22-2012 at 03:27 PM.
#4
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Hi, 4.0 V8 I take it...that is a VVT (Variable Valve Soleniod) - there is one on each valve cover. This soleniod controls the VVT actuator, which controls your valve timing. There is a gasket for the VVT solenoid - best bet if your going to change that gasket (which requires you to remove the valve cover) you might as well change the valve cover gasket and associated spark well O-Ring gaskets as well.
#6
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If your VVT seal is leaking oil - more than likely the spark plug well seals are leaking too.
If you have to replace any coils - go with Motorcraft or Jaguar OES coils - or Standard - the other brands out there are taking a roll of the dice. Good Luck.
#7
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#8
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ok, pulled all coils and none of them wet or anything, the plugs look like the picture attached. went autozone and no codes. should i just replace all plugs and coils or take the car to a jag dealership like wife wants me to so they can run a diagnostic $160.00? is there anyone in the tampa bay area that can help me? the plugs are NGK BKR5EGP
thanks john
thanks john
Last edited by usajay38; 06-25-2012 at 01:25 PM.
#9
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ok, pulled all coils and none of them wet or anything, the plugs look like the picture attached. went autozone and no codes. should i just replace all plugs and coils or take the car to a jag dealership like wife wants me to so they can run a diagnostic $160.00? is there anyone in the tampa bay area that can help me? the plugs are NGK BKR5EGP
thanks john
thanks john
Here is what I see: your plug shows normal wear - the NGK plugs are designed to go 100K miles before changing. How many miles are on the vehicle? If it's approaching 100K or over 100K I would replace them with NGK double platinum plugs. (Which is OES plug for Jaguar)
On the upper threads on the plug I see oil residue - that tells me you had oil in the bottom of that spark well. Those upper plug threads should be dry, period.
I still think if your going to change plugs and coils you need to change those cam gaskets too. If your not a DIY - take it to an indy, not Jaguar. Changing plugs, coils and cam gaskets is not terribly hard to do - hardest part is removing thr driver's side cam cover - if you have experience you should be able to disconnect the fuel line (with specific tools) but even if not you can still gain enough clearance to get the old cam gaskets off and the new one on and in place.
Last edited by abonano; 06-25-2012 at 01:41 PM.
#10
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ok, i thought it was anti-seize on plug, i can do all work myself. the bottom of coils were dry on signs of oil. i bought the vehicle used, seller gave me records. coils and plugs changed at 77,xxx miles by dealer in 2006 the vehicle now has 134,xxx miles gaskets were also changed then
Last edited by usajay38; 06-25-2012 at 02:19 PM.
#11
#12
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Anti Seize is a silver color and is grainy - not oily. You have probally 30K to 40K left on those plugs. Since they are NGK plugs I would reinstall them. They are highly reliable. Remember, records are just that records - but +1 on the work being done at the dealership - at least quality OES replacement parts were used.
I would move away from the spark plugs and re-focus your efforts on the coils. I would suggest you consider investing in a COP reader - you simply place the paddle on top of each coil at idle and look for the green/red light and beep - if they're steady, the coil is good - if the lights/beeps are intermitient - you just found your coil issue.
Good Luck and keep us posted on your findings.
I would move away from the spark plugs and re-focus your efforts on the coils. I would suggest you consider investing in a COP reader - you simply place the paddle on top of each coil at idle and look for the green/red light and beep - if they're steady, the coil is good - if the lights/beeps are intermitient - you just found your coil issue.
Good Luck and keep us posted on your findings.
#14
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Here you go - you can check Ebay as well. Just be sure the COP tester has a sensitivity wheel like the link below (on sale at www.amazon.com)
Best $$$ I've invested to diagnose these issues.
Best $$$ I've invested to diagnose these issues.
#15
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ok i bit the bullet and took vehicle to Jag dealer $115 (got wife out of my ear). no codes, the dealer say yes its skipping but we cant tell which cylinder. we commend you replace all plugs and coil $1,200. i asked no way to tell which coil is skipping and they still say no.
also t state housing leaking w/short hose, low tone horn not working.
took my car and told them no thanks.
also t state housing leaking w/short hose, low tone horn not working.
took my car and told them no thanks.
#17
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ok i bit the bullet and took vehicle to Jag dealer $115 (got wife out of my ear). no codes, the dealer say yes its skipping but we cant tell which cylinder. we commend you replace all plugs and coil $1,200. i asked no way to tell which coil is skipping and they still say no.
also t state housing leaking w/short hose, low tone horn not working.
took my car and told them no thanks.
also t state housing leaking w/short hose, low tone horn not working.
took my car and told them no thanks.
#18
#19
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Also recommended is Felpro kit (see '90* Lincoln LS 3.9)
(doing concurrent research)
Lowell
#20
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