What annoys you most about your S-Type??
#361
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#362
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Didn't read the thread to see if it had been mentioned, but the size of the gas tank is quite annoying. My last car had a 21 gallon tank and I could go over 400 miles before the refuel light came on. Now I am filling up every 300 miles or so while only getting a couple mpgs less than my previous car. I sure wish it had an extra 5 gallons or so of space.
#363
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Didn't read the thread to see if it had been mentioned, but the size of the gas tank is quite annoying. My last car had a 21 gallon tank and I could go over 400 miles before the refuel light came on. Now I am filling up every 300 miles or so while only getting a couple mpgs less than my previous car. I sure wish it had an extra 5 gallons or so of space.
#364
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Stock unit with Navigation and sat. radio. Satellite, AM/FM and CD play great! The CD player plays, stops, pauses, skips ahead, skips back, just will not eject.
I have already searched and have seen many posts and threads on the CD changer in the trunck, but none of that applies to me. I just presume the eject button is buggered and so, therefore, am I.
I have already searched and have seen many posts and threads on the CD changer in the trunck, but none of that applies to me. I just presume the eject button is buggered and so, therefore, am I.
#365
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#366
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Jag79;
Sorry I did not see your question.
Yes I have posted it before. I removed the defroster grill on my 2005 STR to cure a rattle. First remove the two A-pillar covers. This requires peeling back the rubber door seals where they over lap the A-pillars. Then pull the covers straight off. I usually screw up these clips and replace them so be careful, they are tight.
The clips are not too expensive but they are always a part I have to order. The dealers do not keep them in stock. They are the same as the Lincoln LS and can be purchased at any Ford dealer. Ford Part #3W4Z-5403552-AA About $12. This is the top clip with the tether. Ford part #F6DZ-5403552-AA about $4.50. This the bottom clip without the tether. You could actually replace all 4 with the standard clip if you wanted too.
Then lift the A-pillar covers to unhook them from the defrosted panel. They snap down into the defrosted panel at the bottom corner of the windshield. The defrosted grill is kinda flimsy plastic so be careful when prying on it. There are a series of clips holding the defrosted panel to the top of the dash. I use nylon pry sticks and work it from the outside of the car towards the center. Do it from both sides at the same time and I finish with two nylon pry sticks inserted on each side of the center sensor that looks like a small round ball. This is your PATS sensor and has a wire running to it. Then I pry carefully on both sides of this to "pop" up the center section.
I unhook the wire so I can take the entire panel out of the car and turn it upside down on the work bench. Lay it on a towel so you don't damage the side of the panel that shows. Then you can see how the factory did it and why you now have a rattle. All the edges of this panel have a layer of foam on them to dampen rattles. Over time and movement the foam decays and gets pushed aside. I removed what was left of this. The glue was a bit of a problem but I used 3M adhesive remover to get the glue off without damaging the plastic itself.
Next I used an old trick. I purchase sticky backed felt off EBay. Then I cut thin strips that mimic the factory seals but I make mine wider so it covers a bigger area. Just don't go to far over the edge that shows or you will have stuff sticking out when done. Be aware some people have found the center sensor to be a source of noise too. They cover the back of this sensor with more felt to prevent that.
If the panel is cracked or broken it's a easy fix from the backside because the panel is almost completely flat. Use a bit of added plastic on the backside over the crack and your choice of glue to reinforce it.
When you reinstall try to not seat any clips until the entire panel is in place. Then try to seat it all at once straight down. Don't forget to reattach the wire first!! My panel was a bit tight on purpose because of the added felt and I wanted it wedged into place if possible. I also try to pry the attaching metal clips apart a little bit before assembly. Every time these spring type clips are removed and installed you loose gripping strength. This causes rattles and squeaks. A second set of hands in the passenger seat will make things MUCH easier!! Be careful and don't scratch the top of the dash with the metal clips sticking down from the defroster panel!!
Then insert the ends of the A-pillars into the defroster panel. Carefully align the A-pillar clips and push the covers back on. Reinstall the door seals.
This completely fixed my rattle.
.
.
.
Sorry I did not see your question.
Yes I have posted it before. I removed the defroster grill on my 2005 STR to cure a rattle. First remove the two A-pillar covers. This requires peeling back the rubber door seals where they over lap the A-pillars. Then pull the covers straight off. I usually screw up these clips and replace them so be careful, they are tight.
The clips are not too expensive but they are always a part I have to order. The dealers do not keep them in stock. They are the same as the Lincoln LS and can be purchased at any Ford dealer. Ford Part #3W4Z-5403552-AA About $12. This is the top clip with the tether. Ford part #F6DZ-5403552-AA about $4.50. This the bottom clip without the tether. You could actually replace all 4 with the standard clip if you wanted too.
Then lift the A-pillar covers to unhook them from the defrosted panel. They snap down into the defrosted panel at the bottom corner of the windshield. The defrosted grill is kinda flimsy plastic so be careful when prying on it. There are a series of clips holding the defrosted panel to the top of the dash. I use nylon pry sticks and work it from the outside of the car towards the center. Do it from both sides at the same time and I finish with two nylon pry sticks inserted on each side of the center sensor that looks like a small round ball. This is your PATS sensor and has a wire running to it. Then I pry carefully on both sides of this to "pop" up the center section.
I unhook the wire so I can take the entire panel out of the car and turn it upside down on the work bench. Lay it on a towel so you don't damage the side of the panel that shows. Then you can see how the factory did it and why you now have a rattle. All the edges of this panel have a layer of foam on them to dampen rattles. Over time and movement the foam decays and gets pushed aside. I removed what was left of this. The glue was a bit of a problem but I used 3M adhesive remover to get the glue off without damaging the plastic itself.
Next I used an old trick. I purchase sticky backed felt off EBay. Then I cut thin strips that mimic the factory seals but I make mine wider so it covers a bigger area. Just don't go to far over the edge that shows or you will have stuff sticking out when done. Be aware some people have found the center sensor to be a source of noise too. They cover the back of this sensor with more felt to prevent that.
If the panel is cracked or broken it's a easy fix from the backside because the panel is almost completely flat. Use a bit of added plastic on the backside over the crack and your choice of glue to reinforce it.
When you reinstall try to not seat any clips until the entire panel is in place. Then try to seat it all at once straight down. Don't forget to reattach the wire first!! My panel was a bit tight on purpose because of the added felt and I wanted it wedged into place if possible. I also try to pry the attaching metal clips apart a little bit before assembly. Every time these spring type clips are removed and installed you loose gripping strength. This causes rattles and squeaks. A second set of hands in the passenger seat will make things MUCH easier!! Be careful and don't scratch the top of the dash with the metal clips sticking down from the defroster panel!!
Then insert the ends of the A-pillars into the defroster panel. Carefully align the A-pillar clips and push the covers back on. Reinstall the door seals.
This completely fixed my rattle.
.
.
.
Last edited by clubairth1; 11-25-2011 at 08:53 AM.
#368
#369
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great stuff. Add to list of how to repairs?
Jag79;
Sorry I did not see your question.
Yes I have posted it before. I removed the defroster grill on my 2005 STR to cure a rattle. First remove the two A-pillar covers. This requires peeling back the rubber door seals where they over lap the A-pillars. Then pull the covers straight off. I usually screw up these clips and replace them so be careful, they are tight.
The clips are not too expensive but they are always a part I have to order. The dealers do not keep them in stock. They are the same as the Lincoln LS and can be purchased at any Ford dealer. Ford Part #3W4Z-5403552-AA About $12. This is the top clip with the tether. Ford part #F6DZ-5403552-AA about $4.50. This the bottom clip without the tether. You could actually replace all 4 with the standard clip if you wanted too.
Then lift the A-pillar covers to unhook them from the defrosted panel. They snap down into the defrosted panel at the bottom corner of the windshield. The defrosted grill is kinda flimsy plastic so be careful when prying on it. There are a series of clips holding the defrosted panel to the top of the dash. I use nylon pry sticks and work it from the outside of the car towards the center. Do it from both sides at the same time and I finish with two nylon pry sticks inserted on each side of the center sensor that looks like a small round ball. This is your PATS sensor and has a wire running to it. Then I pry carefully on both sides of this to "pop" up the center section.
I unhook the wire so I can take the entire panel out of the car and turn it upside down on the work bench. Lay it on a towel so you don't damage the side of the panel that shows. Then you can see how the factory did it and why you now have a rattle. All the edges of this panel have a layer of foam on them to dampen rattles. Over time and movement the foam decays and gets pushed aside. I removed what was left of this. The glue was a bit of a problem but I used 3M adhesive remover to get the glue off without damaging the plastic itself.
Next I used an old trick. I purchase sticky backed felt off EBay. Then I cut thin strips that mimic the factory seals but I make mine wider so it covers a bigger area. Just don't go to far over the edge that shows or you will have stuff sticking out when done. Be aware some people have found the center sensor to be a source of noise too. They cover the back of this sensor with more felt to prevent that.
If the panel is cracked or broken it's a easy fix from the backside because the panel is almost completely flat. Use a bit of added plastic on the backside over the crack and your choice of glue to reinforce it.
When you reinstall try to not seat any clips until the entire panel is in place. Then try to seat it all at once straight down. Don't forget to reattach the wire first!! My panel was a bit tight on purpose because of the added felt and I wanted it wedged into place if possible. I also try to pry the attaching metal clips apart a little bit before assembly. Every time these spring type clips are removed and installed you loose gripping strength. This causes rattles and squeaks. A second set of hands in the passenger seat will make things MUCH easier!! Be careful and don't scratch the top of the dash with the metal clips sticking down from the defroster panel!!
Then insert the ends of the A-pillars into the defroster panel. Carefully align the A-pillar clips and push the covers back on. Reinstall the door seals.
This completely fixed my rattle.
.
.
.
Sorry I did not see your question.
Yes I have posted it before. I removed the defroster grill on my 2005 STR to cure a rattle. First remove the two A-pillar covers. This requires peeling back the rubber door seals where they over lap the A-pillars. Then pull the covers straight off. I usually screw up these clips and replace them so be careful, they are tight.
The clips are not too expensive but they are always a part I have to order. The dealers do not keep them in stock. They are the same as the Lincoln LS and can be purchased at any Ford dealer. Ford Part #3W4Z-5403552-AA About $12. This is the top clip with the tether. Ford part #F6DZ-5403552-AA about $4.50. This the bottom clip without the tether. You could actually replace all 4 with the standard clip if you wanted too.
Then lift the A-pillar covers to unhook them from the defrosted panel. They snap down into the defrosted panel at the bottom corner of the windshield. The defrosted grill is kinda flimsy plastic so be careful when prying on it. There are a series of clips holding the defrosted panel to the top of the dash. I use nylon pry sticks and work it from the outside of the car towards the center. Do it from both sides at the same time and I finish with two nylon pry sticks inserted on each side of the center sensor that looks like a small round ball. This is your PATS sensor and has a wire running to it. Then I pry carefully on both sides of this to "pop" up the center section.
I unhook the wire so I can take the entire panel out of the car and turn it upside down on the work bench. Lay it on a towel so you don't damage the side of the panel that shows. Then you can see how the factory did it and why you now have a rattle. All the edges of this panel have a layer of foam on them to dampen rattles. Over time and movement the foam decays and gets pushed aside. I removed what was left of this. The glue was a bit of a problem but I used 3M adhesive remover to get the glue off without damaging the plastic itself.
Next I used an old trick. I purchase sticky backed felt off EBay. Then I cut thin strips that mimic the factory seals but I make mine wider so it covers a bigger area. Just don't go to far over the edge that shows or you will have stuff sticking out when done. Be aware some people have found the center sensor to be a source of noise too. They cover the back of this sensor with more felt to prevent that.
If the panel is cracked or broken it's a easy fix from the backside because the panel is almost completely flat. Use a bit of added plastic on the backside over the crack and your choice of glue to reinforce it.
When you reinstall try to not seat any clips until the entire panel is in place. Then try to seat it all at once straight down. Don't forget to reattach the wire first!! My panel was a bit tight on purpose because of the added felt and I wanted it wedged into place if possible. I also try to pry the attaching metal clips apart a little bit before assembly. Every time these spring type clips are removed and installed you loose gripping strength. This causes rattles and squeaks. A second set of hands in the passenger seat will make things MUCH easier!! Be careful and don't scratch the top of the dash with the metal clips sticking down from the defroster panel!!
Then insert the ends of the A-pillars into the defroster panel. Carefully align the A-pillar clips and push the covers back on. Reinstall the door seals.
This completely fixed my rattle.
.
.
.
#370
#371
#372
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#373
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My Head is spinning on this one... so is backup beeper an annoyance that you miss not having on the Civic?
#374
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#376
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My biggest gripe with my S-Type is that it looks like a 99 Ford Falcon from the rear, which is one of the least loved Falcons of the modern era (the new millennium's Edsel). & people keep asking me why I bought one of those old dogs.![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Name: AUFalcon.jpg
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I doubt that it's a coincidence, as Jag was under Ford ownership at that time, & the elliptical curves were part of Ford International's new "edge styling" language, which was a dismal failure in this country.
Are there any Fords in your country which share that design philosophy, & look a little like your Jag? & does it cheapen/lessen your Jag ownership experience? eg I really don't like the look of the rear of my car now, due to that association. & I think the S-Type would have been better suited with a rounded rear, more like the original 60s Mark II S-Type.
![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Name: AUFalcon.jpg
Views: 93
Size: 70.9 KB](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/168176d1501279797-what-annoys-you-most-about-your-s-type-aufalcon.jpg)
I doubt that it's a coincidence, as Jag was under Ford ownership at that time, & the elliptical curves were part of Ford International's new "edge styling" language, which was a dismal failure in this country.
Are there any Fords in your country which share that design philosophy, & look a little like your Jag? & does it cheapen/lessen your Jag ownership experience? eg I really don't like the look of the rear of my car now, due to that association. & I think the S-Type would have been better suited with a rounded rear, more like the original 60s Mark II S-Type.
Last edited by scatcat; 12-06-2011 at 02:33 PM.
#377
#378
#379
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& I don't think they look that similar either, as I've always admired S-Types, from every angle. & I've never liked AUs. It's only the curve of the boot/trunk, the licence plate holder, & the angled tail lights that share the visual cues. However with such a large number of friends thinking I've bought an old Falcon, on seeing the rear of my car poking out of the garage. I have to say that for your average Aussie Drongo (drongo australis) it's an AU Falcon.
Last edited by scatcat; 12-07-2011 at 01:05 AM.
#380
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Well, we took Laurie's to my sisters for Thanksgiving. We hadn't told them about getting it. Everyone imeadiately recognized it as a Jaguar. I explained how we came to get it so they wouldn't think we hit the lottery or something.
Over here that Ford would be a Taurus. We really haven't got any of the remarks in regaurd to similaritys. I had a couple Taurus for the ex (she actually still drives the 2000) and I can tell you I see nothing they share.
![Icon Cool](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
Over here that Ford would be a Taurus. We really haven't got any of the remarks in regaurd to similaritys. I had a couple Taurus for the ex (she actually still drives the 2000) and I can tell you I see nothing they share.