What annoys you most about your S-Type??
#681
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
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kr98664 (11-30-2017)
#683
#684
To JagV8, what I meant by hesitating a little, when I'm cruising and accelerate the car doesn't react for a second or so, I've gotten used to accelerating a little early to compensate. It raises the revs slowly from a stand still until it gets going also. When I'm driving in the low to mid range of a gear the throttle response is good though. I haven't driven another S Type with a V8 for a comparison, rarely even see one. It seems like the transmission is deciding whether or not to let the engine go for a second, normal?
Last edited by Catmobile; 11-29-2017 at 08:10 PM.
#685
Well that's odd. I have a hard time getting the open everything to work. Mine requires a very long time of holding the button to accomplish that? I wonder is that amount of time is programmable or just different in certain MYs?
Interesting about the key fobs. The solution sounds like a PITA as well though
I have one fob that went through the washing machine so the some of the switch contacts are a bit dodgy.
Interesting about the key fobs. The solution sounds like a PITA as well though
I have one fob that went through the washing machine so the some of the switch contacts are a bit dodgy.
#686
IMO, it is a design defect by Ford that affects the entire 5R55 family of transmissions. Ford Techs should know this, but it seems that some of them don't. The servo bores are machined into the body casting without any sleeves. Die casting aluminum alloys like A380 do not have enough strength and wear resistance for that kind of service.
Specific symptoms of servo bore wear are hesitation and delays in downshifting when accelerating, fluid leaks from the front of the transmission, and eventual slippage of bands. The leakage seems to be from fluid spraying from the servo bore and making its way out through a breather at the front of the transmission. The leak will look like a front seal leak and will run down the transmission housing to drip onto the hot right-hand exhaust pipe where it will generate a cloud of oil smoke that gets pulled into the cabin air intake, especially when slowing down for a freeway off-ramp. Another symptom, which may be related to low fluid level from the leak is that when coming to a stop at the bottom of an off-ramp, the transmission will drop into neutral on its own and re-engage when the engine is revved. Any of those symptoms, especially in combination, suggest that the transmission needs to be pulled and the servo bores get sleeves installed before the transmission self-destructs. Yeah, I had this problem, I went in to have it serviced several times, and yeah, the techs mis-diagnosed the problem. They had plenty of opportunity to figure it out and failed.
#687
I wish, it also describes design characteristics. Mine had only 9800 smiles on it last year when I bought it, 22k now so nothings worn yet. I will have that TBI checked for tie rod(I think) tightness-they were under tightened at the factory if I recall the recall correctly.
#688
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
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Hopefully the Technicians working on your gearbox added the later modifications to the valve body and thermostatic cooler valve in addition to boring the servo housing and adding the sleeves.
#689
Another common problem is when the mid-range and overdrive servo bores wear, the servo pin eventually harshly engages the band and breaks the end off.
Hopefully the Technicians working on your gearbox added the later modifications to the valve body and thermostatic cooler valve in addition to boring the servo housing and adding the sleeves.
Hopefully the Technicians working on your gearbox added the later modifications to the valve body and thermostatic cooler valve in addition to boring the servo housing and adding the sleeves.
#690
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
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#691
Well that's odd. I have a hard time getting the open everything to work. Mine requires a very long time of holding the button to accomplish that? I wonder is that amount of time is programmable or just different in certain MYs?
Interesting about the key fobs. The solution sounds like a PITA as well though
I have one fob that went through the washing machine so the some of the switch contacts are a bit dodgy.
Interesting about the key fobs. The solution sounds like a PITA as well though
I have one fob that went through the washing machine so the some of the switch contacts are a bit dodgy.
Last edited by dpasek; 11-30-2017 at 11:42 PM.
#692
I had the opportunity to put in LSD, but I didn't do it. I had the diff whine problem and it didn't clear up with fluid change. The ring and pinion were worn beyond recovery (glitter in the oil) and got to the point where I just needed to fix my daily driver. I found a junk yard pull diff that was in good condition for $100 and Jag service installed it for ~$500 or so. For my car, a drop-in replacement Quaif was available for ~600, then there would be labor to put it into the new Diff housing. I chose not to spend the extra ~$1000 on a car that now has over 250K miles on it. I'm putting that money instead into a Torsen T2 or Eaton Truetrac LSD for my 2WD pickup truck which really needs it.
Last edited by dpasek; 11-30-2017 at 10:05 PM.
#693
I got a junk yard pull, inspected it and had Jag do the R/R all for less than $700. Reasonable enough for me. I had some other rear suspension problems fixed at the same time; new shocks and replaced a lower control arm with worn bushings for a little additional labor. Got the parts from Rock Auto (exact OEM part #'s) and saved on labor charges bc some common parts were being removed during the overall job.
Last edited by dpasek; 12-01-2017 at 12:14 AM.
#694
CVTs are limited to lower power engines because of the physical limitations of the metal link 'push' belt in what is an adaptation of a Reeves drive, similar to what is used on snowmobiles or mechanical continuously variable speed machine tools. (apologies for the off topic diversion)
#695
Now in theory I think the windows are supposed to auto-open if a restriction is sensed when closing, but it's not very sophisticated. It's probably based on amperage draw of the window motor. Encounter some restriction, the motor works harder, causing amperage to increase, triggering the command to drive the window down. This is good to have this feature, but no way on earth am I going to test it by placing any part of my body in the way.
One feature I really wish was available for parking on hot days: The ability to simultaneously drop all windows about an inch for ventilation. Now that would be slick.
#696
I got a used, super clean 4-button remote for less than $20 but the dealer was unable to program it with the service software package that they have. That is the one that I activated with the Chinese clone key programmer ($150), and it works perfectly. It is the one I now carry in my pocket. Oh, and if I hadn't asked Jag service to program the fob while I was in there for other R/R service, they would charged me $100 for 5 min worth of work.
The original, well worn fob that I got with the car had a bit of moisture trapped inside of the case which caused enough corrosion to the push buttons that the unlock button got sticky. Thorough cleaning with alcohol made it look better but it still sticks. Ultrasonic cleaning in alcohol might help. If not, an R/R of the button would be required, involving microelectronic solder repair which auto techs do not know how to do.
Last edited by dpasek; 12-01-2017 at 12:19 AM.
#697
For once, you've got to agree with the lawyers on this one. Such a feature would make it way too easy to cause harm to a child or pet, if they were in the path of the glass. You have to individually press the respective control switches inside the car for safety. Compare with holding one button on a fob, which means you may not even be in line-of-sight when closing everything.
Now in theory I think the windows are supposed to auto-open if a restriction is sensed when closing, but it's not very sophisticated. It's probably based on amperage draw of the window motor. Encounter some restriction, the motor works harder, causing amperage to increase, triggering the command to drive the window down. This is good to have this feature, but no way on earth am I going to test it by placing any part of my body in the way.
One feature I really wish was available for parking on hot days: The ability to simultaneously drop all windows about an inch for ventilation. Now that would be slick.
Now in theory I think the windows are supposed to auto-open if a restriction is sensed when closing, but it's not very sophisticated. It's probably based on amperage draw of the window motor. Encounter some restriction, the motor works harder, causing amperage to increase, triggering the command to drive the window down. This is good to have this feature, but no way on earth am I going to test it by placing any part of my body in the way.
One feature I really wish was available for parking on hot days: The ability to simultaneously drop all windows about an inch for ventilation. Now that would be slick.
I sometimes leave the sunroof cracked open on hot days. It helps, but only a little. When you crack your door windows, it's almost like leaving your car unlocked. It only takes seconds to pull the lock lever with a metal rod and you're in. It's almost as quick as breaking a window with a punch, but quieter. The alarm doesn't activate either way.
And funny thing... Now that the weather is cold, the windows roll down only as long as I keep pressing the unlock button. That is exactly the feature that you are looking for. But it doesn't seem to work that way on hot days; the windows go all the way down and there is no stopping them, even by pressing the lock button.
Last edited by dpasek; 11-30-2017 at 11:16 PM.
#698
The alignment of the bores is such that the application force to the band is not quite tangential, and it puts a side load on the servo pin. This is a major contributing factor toward bore wear, the other being the lack of a bushing. When the bore wears enough, there is sufficient fluid leakage (forceful spray) through the gap that the hydraulic pump cannot deliver enough pressure to the servo to fully actuate the band. Then the transmission slips, and this happens well before the pin would break from the info that I have found.
In the future, I will avoid any vehicle that has any version of the 5R55 transmission.
Last edited by dpasek; 12-01-2017 at 12:26 AM.
#699
Now in theory I think the windows are supposed to auto-open if a restriction is sensed when closing, but it's not very sophisticated. It's probably based on amperage draw of the window motor. Encounter some restriction, the motor works harder, causing amperage to increase, triggering the command to drive the window down. This is good to have this feature, but no way on earth am I going to test it by placing any part of my body in the way.
#700