Well, thought I'd see what ideas you all might have with this issue I'm having with my STR. About two months ago I had the MIL and Restricted Performance come on while I was driving. This was during really bad blowing snow which was probably finding it's way into all parts of the engine bay! Anyway, other than the MIL and RP being on, everything was fine. After a while, RP went away and just the MIL was left on. Well, after about a week or so of the MIL being on, I got myself a code reader and scanned it. Got P1474, the intercooler pump circuit malifunction or something to that effect. Tried to get the freeze frame data, but the reader I got didn't like my car so I had to take it back, but I did manage to clear the code. Now, the car ran perfect, no RP or MIL for about 2 weeks, then driving again during blowing snow, hitting the car at the same direction as the first time, RP came on, shortly followed by the MIL. So, I drove for a while and RP did go away, but kept comming back on whenever I drove in blowing snow hitting the car on the passenger side. I decided to just get a better code reader and finally got it just the other day (Innova 3150, best thing ever! It even knows all the Jag specific codes). Scanned the car and yes again, P1474. This time I was able to get the freeze frame data. From talking with other people and info from forums, if the intercooler water pump was failing, the car should be overheating (as far as I understand it). Based on the FF data, the engine coolent temp was a solid 91C, right where it should be as it usually sits around 91-92C under normal conditions. Anyway, I cleared the code, drove around all day, lots of starts and stops and no MIL or RP. I had to drive down to Fargo to get my scanner (can't really find it in Canada!) so on the trip back home, driving though the thickest fog I've seen in a long time, on comes RP then the MIL a short time later. Scanned it again and you guessed it P1474. Again, FF data showed no overheating. Cleared it again, car drives fine for a while, then while I was driving it yesterday, on comes RP and then the MIL, this time it was a clear sunny day, so this is contrary to what I've been seeing, as realted to only comming on with lots of water in the air. So, my question is, is there actually a problem with something or is this possibly just moisture getting somewhere it shouldn't and causing the fault? I'm leaning towards the moisture causing a fault as all my information doesn't actually point to a problem that relates to cooling. Anything else in the FF data other than ECT that I should be paying attention to? Any ideas or theorys are greatly appreciated as I try to sort this out. And yes I do have JTIS, just can't get it to work with Windows 7, but I will have a look at it as soon as I can since I do have it on the computer at my parents place, and take a look at the wiring and whatnot.

 

I agree with your suspicion that moisture is probably getting into your throttle body. Melting snow could do it, and so could thick fog. It only takes a micro-drop or two of moisture to cause these throttle bodies to go haywire - I've never experienced any other throttle bodies nearly as sensitive as these Jaguar units seem to be. As a first step I would at least crank your throttle body hose clamps tighter and perhaps even use a silicone seal on the hoses. Search "throttle body problems" on the forum here and you'll come up with a number of different symptoms and approaches that folks have tried over the past couple of years....

 

Freaking Canadians eh? Driving that beautiful car around in the snow!

 

I can't see any reason to suspect the throttle body and as they are VERY expensive I would not touch it.

Ideally you'd try to find out all the things that can lead to P1474. JTIS only points at a few, so again ideally you'd go on to GTR at www.jaguartechinfo.com and search really hard - if you can't find a competent tech to help you (and based where you are, you probably can't).

The code appears to have a different meaning for the S-Type (based on what little info I have from jtis) than for Fords, which surprises me as Ford owned jag at the time and appear to have been trying to unify their codes. I worry that the code may be mis-described in jtis. GTR is the best/only way to check.

If the electrical diagrams in jtis are right - which in some areas we are virtually sure they are NOT - then it's not obvious (i.e. I can't tell) how the code could set for the intercooler water pump, as there appears to be no way the PCM can tell whether it's working at all let alone that the circuit is misbehaving. Welllll, it can monitor IAT2 and maybe figure it that way. I can read IAT2 with my AutoEnginuity (calls it Second ...) but you probably won't be able to do it with your Innova.

What you might try is taking apart and re-making the likely connectors (or just lots of them LOL) in the hope that the wiping action of so doing fixes it. If you're brave you might leave the most likely connectors apart and see if the same code sets but ..... are you feeling lucky? gulp.

Just supposing it's the IAT2 that's leading the PCM to flag the code. It would likely mean the IAT2 figure implies the boosted air is too high temperature or too low. Too high, probably. Not good. The combustion will be all wrong, or rather the PCM will most likely take evasive action to stop that and you really would want it to!

I'd be using my AE and probably going on GTR. I also have a jag indy fairly close, but don't know if they could cope with this - I'd ask though. Good luck.

 

Tightening the clamps on the throttle body hoses may indeed clear up the issue. It's quick, it's easy, and it's free. I'm not advising him to remove his throttle body or even attempt to clean it....

Your advice of disconnecting and reconnecting his electrical connectors under the hood is another good first step. Again - it's quick, it's easy, and it's free. In fact, while each electrical connector is separated, he could carefully dry both ends with a hair dryer to maximize the chances of eliminating some of the moisture-related issues that could be causing his problem....

 

Checking that the hoses fit OK on the TB, fine. Tightening them if they're loose, yeah also fine. Overtighten them and expect bad stuff. Thing is, though, the code just does not point to the TB.

 

Code or no code, most "restricted performance" or "limp home mode" issues seem to be throttle body-related....

 

Er, not from the messages I've read over the last year here and on the UK forums.

 

Jon...Restricted Performance and Limp Mode are not one in the same... One can trigger the other... But many codes throw "restricted performance" messages without triggering a 'Limp Home" event...Please review..

 

I know it's not a throttle body issue, and the code description is correct. I have brought this up on the UK form and another guy had the same code pulled by his dealer with the proper equipment and it was the same definition of a intercooler water pump circuit malifunction (or something to that effect). I have already checked the TB when this all started and it was dry as a bone, even though it was all snowy and wet. The one thing that I was thinking is that could this have something to do with the Aux coolent pump? I thought of this because when I changed my DCCV last year, you have to unplug the electrical connector to the Aux pump. Now, I actually had a look at this just before I went on my trip and it was still firmly connected and dry, but I didn't have time to actually take it off and dry it. Don't know if that would be a source of the problem, but worth a try. I am planning on trying to just disconnect/reconnect things and make sure they are dry and properly connected. Thing is, today when I took off for work this afternoon, the Yellow RP was still on, but after I stopped at the bank on the way and started the car up, it was gone and everything was fine. Now it is a nice sunny day and it's starting to warm up here so if it was water, maybe the warm temps are getting ride of it. I know when it's winter, water will get in, freeze, and may melt and evap. but since it's so cold, as soon as you park, it'll freeze up again!
As for how the car knows what this problem is, I have no idea. When it comes to IAT, I remember it was at 9C. I seem to remember there was a IAT 2 or something like that, but I don't remember what it was. I may still have the data in my scanner and I can take a look, or if the code comes back I'll remember to get all the data!

 

Okay, so I just found that this code is officially referred to as Charge air cooler water pump
malfunction (same difference to me, intercooler is the same thing!) and is tripped by comparing the IAT1 to IAT2 and then taking the number from IAT2-IAT1 and determining if it's over a threshold. Found this with GTR. So, if this happens again (hopefully not) I will need to see if my reader can get the IAT2 temperature and then I can see if it is over the threshold to trip the code. If it is, well, there is somewhere to start. If not, I would think that confirms my idea that it is just a electrical ghost caused by water or something!
So, anyone know where this pump is actually located!

 

jtis shows the coolant flow. The pump will likely be near where jtis shows but failing that follow the hoses
It's probably the pump's wiring, connectors or the like.
You know already that space is, er, tight

 

Tight is a nice way of putting it.
I think I'll have a look this weekend and see what I can see! Hopefully this problem will go away now that it's nice out and never come back!

 

Well, it looks like I'm going to have to change my intercooler water pump. Now, everytime I clear the code it comes back a short while after. I thought it might be the IAT2 sensor, but that has it's own codes thrown if there is a problem. I'll still check it but it looks like its the pump. I now know why it stays off when I'm just city driving because its monitoring system is only on when the car is at operating temp and driving at 50-65mph (or faster!) for >10min. So it seems that unless you are at those speeds, it doesn't even car about the IAT2. Anyway, I think I'll just look for a intercooler pump and change it myself and see what happens. Any good ideas where to find one? My dealer wants $644 CDN for it, I can get a high flow one from Eurotoys for about $300 if I remember right, I just have to check for a used one somewhere. Anyone ever changed one of these? If so, what kind of a job was it.

 

Found a schematic pic etc of the pump if you still need to know.

 

That would be great! I haven't had a chance to get a look at JTIS yet and any schematics would be a real help.

 

On GTR, model year I think 2003 but maybe another like 2004, Technical Guides, described when you grab it as 2003 Model Year Update, p67 has a schematic. The cooler is low down on R slightly to rear (might even be alongside?) of radiator. Just a bit lower, right and forwards of the DCCV. There must be a connector for power etc, and as you've had a leak etc maybe that just needs cleaning. The intercooler pump is meant to be on all the time the engine's on. If you can find the power feed in the elec diagrams then you could check its fuse, and even try measuring current (it'll be amps, I suspect, don't burn your meter out).

 

Well, based on JTIS, it shouldn't be too hard to change the intercooler pump. Also, I checked the IAT2 sensor and it was all good. And while I was checking that my hand touched my intercooler on that side and it almost burned my hand off! There is no way it should be that hot. I've touched those intercoolers after a long drive and they were hot, but not burn your hand off hot. Obviously they aren't getting properly cooled, so it looks like it'll be a new intercooler pump for me! I'm also wondering if I might be doing some damage letting things get so hot. I don't drive the car much, only 2 or 3 times a week, but they are long trips and those intercoolers are getting intensly hot on those trips. Any chance I'm damaging things?

 

Any chance your cooling system needs topping up at the SC coolant filler plug? GTR info is:

 

I hadn't thought of that! It's worth a look. I already have the new pump on the way, but this is still worth a check. I doubt this is the problem though as I noticed that after a long drive, all the hoses running from the intercooler pump are cool, while all the other hoses for cooling are warm/hot. It seems like there isn't any (or very little) coolent running through the pump to the intercoolers. Still, I'll have to check it out. At least when I put the new pump in I'll check that it is all good after.
Based on the code description though, the only thing that will throw a P1474 is intercooler pump failure, but we all know Jags way of thinking is replace everything even if there is a problem that could be caused by a simple fix.