I have a 2000 s-type 3.0L with 87K miles on her. [Cars are always female but that is another story...] As I come up on 100K miles I'm putting together a list of what I should service on or before 100K.

Thus far, I have already replaced the radiator reserve tank (was leaking).

At 100K I'm thinking about doing the following:

1) replace spark plugs including intake manifold gaskets, o-rings, etc
2) replace IMT o-ring
3) replace serpentine belt

I've heard others replace the water pump (or just seal) and radiator thermostat switch. Others have also replaced the transmission fluid and experienced less shutter, etc.

What else should I consider servicing at 100K?

PS I plan to do most of the work myself.

Thanks in advance.

Scott

 

I forgot to mention. I am seeing some orange fluid build under the water pump so I suspect I have a slow leak somewhere. So, I imagine I'll need to rebuild the water pump and/or replace some hose/clamps sometime soon.

Scott

 

Spark plugs should have been done at 70K so you're doing them again after only 30K?

If you don't have an OBD tool, I'd get one. Then check the usual things (Search on here, the net, or even check my posts).

 

jagv8 - no error codes reported via OBD computer thus far. I'll check service records again, but I think double platinum plugs are changed every 50-60K miles right? I'll recheck my service records...thx.

Scott

 

Rear diff fluid?

 

IIRC, 70K. More often can't hurt - except your wallet.

You should be doing a LOT more than just checking for codes!!

 

I would recommend the following:

1. Replacing the coils as well as long as you have the intake manifold off.

2. Getting the injectors cleaned out. There are shops that can do this fairly reasonably.

3. Cleaning out the throttle body.

4. Replacing air, cabin and fuel filters.

Mike

 

When you change your spark plugs, go with iridium, not platinum. Iridium plugs are by far the best on the market. NGK and Denso make the best of the best, so stick with them....

 

jagv8 - what else should I be checking via the OBD? Trim fuel per cylinder..., etc..

I should have also mentioned that I already changed out the driver's side bank of spark plugs and coils. I now of course need to do the passenger side. Yeah, I know I prolly should have done both at the same time but I'm not perfect ... yet.

Jon89 - I used the DGK double platinum (also use a similar plug for my Infiniti I-30) and have had no problems with it at all. Will definitely look at the iridium plugs though...

carelm - I did change the cabin filter when I swapped out the radiator resoviour tank. But, I totally forgot about the fuel filter. Good points.

Scott

 

I've purchased the following parts:

- spark plugs, coils, intake manifold gaskets/o-rings, valve gaskets, IVT o-rings

- Water pump, serpentine belt and idler pulley, 180 deg thermostat/o-ring

I've read the related sections in JTIS but have the following questions regarding the water pump swap from those of you who have actually done it.

Did you reuse all your radiator hoses or replace them? Did you remove the throttle body and air cleaner outlet to remove the water pump from the top or drop the water pump assembly down?

Thanks.

PS carelm On #3, the JTIS says 'do not attempt to clean the throttle body. The bore and the throttle plate has a special coating applied during manufacture which should not be removed.' But, I guess if it was dirty maybe you could use a lintless optics rag to lightly dust it??

Scott

 

I just use CRC Throttle Body Cleaner. A couple of months ago I posted a message with pictures on how to clean out your throttle body. Fairly simple and seems to make a measurable difference in performance.

Mike

 

Speculation as to why JTIS says not to clean the throttle body usually centers on:

1. Rather than clean and re-use the existing throttle body, Jaguar makes far more profit if they simply sell and install a new one.

2. It is Jaguar's attempt to make owners have doubts about going into their throttle bodies with a Brillo pad and a can of oven cleaner, a jug of Clorox, or some other non-approved substance.

Real-world applications with the proper tools and chemicals seem to work fine. As Mike said, he has cleaned his with good results. Just be careful out there....

 

More likely it's a combination of things, such as:
it's important not to damage the coating on it
its settings (calibration) are factory-set and you don't want to disturb them
it's a high-precision, delicate device
it needs to be properly sealed against leaks

The above probably mean a garage tech should not clean the TB, especially as any such work would carry an implied warranty. So, replace. However, a DIYer has other priorities and can be gently and careful, using plenty of time and care. Also, can re-do it every now and then if it's worked for a while.