What is the fastest 1/4 mile time with a STR?
#22
I'm sure there are some Elapse Times (ETs) below my runs with corrected ETs according to Density Altitude (DA). I was talking with a guy in the western US and I believe he was "calculated" to run ~12.7 with his mods. But due to the high elevation (extremely thin air) his documented ET was ~13.7 seconds.
Attached are my some of my best times on a cool day last Fall with exhaust mods. My best time was 12.916 at 107 mph.
I no longer have high flow catalytic converters. They failed and they were too noisy anyway. I have not had a chance to run at the track in the cool air since installing a 2.6" pulley (3# pulley). My new dyno numbers indicate I have bit more power now. So, on an ideal day I may now run a 12.90X ...or maybe even a 12.89X.
Attached are my some of my best times on a cool day last Fall with exhaust mods. My best time was 12.916 at 107 mph.
I no longer have high flow catalytic converters. They failed and they were too noisy anyway. I have not had a chance to run at the track in the cool air since installing a 2.6" pulley (3# pulley). My new dyno numbers indicate I have bit more power now. So, on an ideal day I may now run a 12.90X ...or maybe even a 12.89X.
#23
#24
I'm sure there are some Elapse Times (ETs) below my runs with corrected ETs according to Density Altitude (DA). I was talking with a guy in the western US and I believe he was "calculated" to run ~12.7 with his mods. But due to the high elevation (extremely thin air) his documented ET was ~13.7 seconds.
Attached are my some of my best times on a cool day last Fall with exhaust mods. My best time was 12.916 at 107 mph.
I no longer have high flow catalytic converters. They failed and they were too noisy anyway. I have not had a chance to run at the track in the cool air since installing a 2.6" pulley (3# pulley). My new dyno numbers indicate I have bit more power now. So, on an ideal day I may now run a 12.90X ...or maybe even a 12.89X.
Attached are my some of my best times on a cool day last Fall with exhaust mods. My best time was 12.916 at 107 mph.
I no longer have high flow catalytic converters. They failed and they were too noisy anyway. I have not had a chance to run at the track in the cool air since installing a 2.6" pulley (3# pulley). My new dyno numbers indicate I have bit more power now. So, on an ideal day I may now run a 12.90X ...or maybe even a 12.89X.
#25
The ideal method for launching depends on the track's preparation but this is how I typically launch my STR.
*If you have street tires do all you can not to drive through the water box with your tires. NEVER spin your tires in the water box as that will spin water into the fender wells which will drip back down on your tires as you launch and drive down the track
**Too much spinning in the burnout zone will make street tires too hot. Street tires will not stick and can actually glaze becoming very slippery if they get too hot. I have seen instances when drivers heat their street tires too much and then just spin as they launch. I have seen several instances where novice drag strip drivers put their cars into the wall. One vehicle was a very new Z06 Corvette. The driver put all kinds of heat into the tires before the launch and as they came off the line both rear tires were spinning both without much forward movement of the car. The driver was out about 40-50 feet from the starting line and then the backend came around and the very nice and new Corvette was into the wall.
Hope I'm not beating a dead horse...
- Tire Pressure: Fronts 45 PSI, Rear US Driver' side 35 PSI, US Passenger's side 20-35 PSI (open differential has tendency to spin rear US passenger side tire)
- AC Setting: OFF
- Heater Setting: HIGH with upper and lower vents ON
- DSC (Traction Control): OFF
- Drive around water box, back up to burnout position just beyond (not in*) the water box, stomp the gas and both tires spin for 2 to 2.5 seconds cleaning/warming the tires.**
- PreStaging: Pull forward until the first white light is ON, turn OFF heater, wait for other car to stage if they have not already, pull slightly forward until second white light is ON
- Staging: Once both cars are "staged" ...have their white lights ON, hold the brake and slightly press the gas holding between 900-1200 RPMs. The better the track is prepped, the more you can increase the RPMs.
- Start: There are three yellow lights and then a green. To achieve a good reaction time (less than 0.100) I let OFF the brake and press the gas at the same time --- just as the third yellow light turns ON. The trick is to just barely roll into the second white light as you are staging or you will red light.
*If you have street tires do all you can not to drive through the water box with your tires. NEVER spin your tires in the water box as that will spin water into the fender wells which will drip back down on your tires as you launch and drive down the track
**Too much spinning in the burnout zone will make street tires too hot. Street tires will not stick and can actually glaze becoming very slippery if they get too hot. I have seen instances when drivers heat their street tires too much and then just spin as they launch. I have seen several instances where novice drag strip drivers put their cars into the wall. One vehicle was a very new Z06 Corvette. The driver put all kinds of heat into the tires before the launch and as they came off the line both rear tires were spinning both without much forward movement of the car. The driver was out about 40-50 feet from the starting line and then the backend came around and the very nice and new Corvette was into the wall.
Hope I'm not beating a dead horse...
Last edited by 1320racer; 12-05-2012 at 08:53 AM. Reason: finding example link
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#32
I haven't got the torque in the manual. Having looked for the torque I'm way out with the BHP - my mental kW to BHP converter needs fixing. It gives 110 kW at 2000 rpm so only a measly 140 bhp.
The nearest current model in the US is this one
LR 624 Litronic
A particularly useful feature is (like a tank) you can put one track forwards and the other reverse. Many tracked loaders just brake a track to turn.
The nearest current model in the US is this one
LR 624 Litronic
A particularly useful feature is (like a tank) you can put one track forwards and the other reverse. Many tracked loaders just brake a track to turn.
#33
That track loader depends on torque and some chp to spin the hydraulic pump for the hydraulics. 140 chp is plenty for that track loader. Probably feels like 400 chp do to the multiplication of torque from the pump to differential. I had a Terra-Mite compact backhoe/loader (2 cyl. 20 chp Koehler gas engine). It spun a pump to operate hydraulics and a 4.10:1 rear differential. Though it was small compared to a full size backhoe, it could do some real damage. Wish I still had it. You don't know that you'll miss something till its gone. Weep weep...Ok, sorry, I'm over it.
#34
One thing to remember, your RT (reaction time) does NOT effect your ET (elapsed time). You can sit all day at the green light, the clock doesn't start until your car is moving. I've actually won a race based on RT; I ran a 13.9 and the other lane ran a 13.5 but I beat him down the track because my RT was .5 better.
#36
The ideal method for launching depends on the track's preparation but this is how I typically launch my STR.
*If you have street tires do all you can not to drive through the water box with your tires. NEVER spin your tires in the water box as that will spin water into the fender wells which will drip back down on your tires as you launch and drive down the track
**Too much spinning in the burnout zone will make street tires too hot. Street tires will not stick and can actually glaze becoming very slippery if they get too hot. I have seen instances when drivers heat their street tires too much and then just spin as they launch. I have seen several instances where novice drag strip drivers put their cars into the wall. One vehicle was a very new Z06 Corvette. The driver put all kinds of heat into the tires before the launch and as they came off the line both rear tires were spinning both without much forward movement of the car. The driver was out about 40-50 feet from the starting line and then the backend came around and the very nice and new Corvette was into the wall.
Hope I'm not beating a dead horse...
EXAMPLE LINK of what NOT to do...
- Tire Pressure: Fronts 45 PSI, Rear US Driver' side 35 PSI, US Passenger's side 20-35 PSI (open differential has tendency to spin rear US passenger side tire)
- AC Setting: OFF
- Heater Setting: HIGH with upper and lower vents ON
- DSC (Traction Control): OFF
- Drive around water box, back up to burnout position just beyond (not in*) the water box, stomp the gas and both tires spin for 2 to 2.5 seconds cleaning/warming the tires.**
- PreStaging: Pull forward until the first white light is ON, turn OFF heater, wait for other car to stage if they have not already, pull slightly forward until second white light is ON
- Staging: Once both cars are "staged" ...have their white lights ON, hold the brake and slightly press the gas holding between 900-1200 RPMs. The better the track is prepped, the more you can increase the RPMs.
- Start: There are three yellow lights and then a green. To achieve a good reaction time (less than 0.100) I let OFF the brake and press the gas at the same time --- just as the third yellow light turns ON. The trick is to just barely roll into the second white light as you are staging or you will red light.
*If you have street tires do all you can not to drive through the water box with your tires. NEVER spin your tires in the water box as that will spin water into the fender wells which will drip back down on your tires as you launch and drive down the track
**Too much spinning in the burnout zone will make street tires too hot. Street tires will not stick and can actually glaze becoming very slippery if they get too hot. I have seen instances when drivers heat their street tires too much and then just spin as they launch. I have seen several instances where novice drag strip drivers put their cars into the wall. One vehicle was a very new Z06 Corvette. The driver put all kinds of heat into the tires before the launch and as they came off the line both rear tires were spinning both without much forward movement of the car. The driver was out about 40-50 feet from the starting line and then the backend came around and the very nice and new Corvette was into the wall.
Hope I'm not beating a dead horse...
EXAMPLE LINK of what NOT to do...
Solid response sir!!! Thank you! Minutes before you wrote this, I did a mini test launch after the car sat for about two hours (warmed up). It ripped the tires, spinning from 1000rpm to 3000rpm with ease, with barely half throttle off the line. It's going to be a challenge at the track! Thanks again for the advice.
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1320racer (12-06-2012)
#38
heavy foot
rasputin
I hope you have a great time at the drag strip this weekend. I always do...even if I'm not racing.
I'm not doubting the power of your STR at all but a test launch on the street is fun but entirely different when comparing it to a well "prepped" drag strip launching surface. The strip will very likely have VHT or a similar product applied. Without VHT, many vehicles would just spin when launching.
Since our STRs unfortunately have open differentials, there are occasions that most of us have had fun experiencing the rear tires breaking loose at launch or even between 5-10mph on the street. Spinning happens to me (when the kids and wife are not in the car); even when running a set of sticky 285/30/18 Continental DW summer tires. Like you, I still want a lot more power!!!
I hope you have a great time at the drag strip this weekend. I always do...even if I'm not racing.
I'm not doubting the power of your STR at all but a test launch on the street is fun but entirely different when comparing it to a well "prepped" drag strip launching surface. The strip will very likely have VHT or a similar product applied. Without VHT, many vehicles would just spin when launching.
Since our STRs unfortunately have open differentials, there are occasions that most of us have had fun experiencing the rear tires breaking loose at launch or even between 5-10mph on the street. Spinning happens to me (when the kids and wife are not in the car); even when running a set of sticky 285/30/18 Continental DW summer tires. Like you, I still want a lot more power!!!
Last edited by 1320racer; 12-06-2012 at 11:12 AM.
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rasputin (12-09-2012)
#40
Well quite the night
Nothing, broke, car is running great, which is most important to me. Density altitude was about 1500 DA first part of the night, about 1100 DA the last part of the night, which is pretty solid for AZ. The lines took about 5 minutes, so the intake was cool to the touch and the intercoolers were just warm to the touch for each run, having about one hour in between each, with a few back to back runs.
Mods are in Sig, also mixed about 4 gallons of 91 octane with 1 gallon of 100, making about 93'ish octane. Also removed every spare piece of weight from the car, including having only about a 1/4 tank of gas. I'm 165lb's.
Here is each run (followed 1320 racer's rules to the max):
1st: 13.975 @ 101.7, 2.178. Brake torqued it, spun a bit off the line, got traction at line 2KRPM, and finally lost traction again at 4KRPM. Car held 4KRPM for awhile with massive wheel hop. Then jumped into second at 4KRPM, car ran great after that.
2nd: 13.722 @ 103.64, 2.135. Pretty much just like the first run, except there was more traction in first, but the car did the same early shift at 4KRPM.
3rd: Best run ever! Brake torqued to 1KRPM, then did a harder launch. Got traction right away, lost it at 3KRPM, then rpms shot up to 4.5K, then got traction, then lost traction at 5.5KRPM, and the ZF held it in first at 5.5K rpm for a 1/3rd of the track, doing a massive burnout the entire way. Ran a 21 . Not sure why the car did this....?
4th/5th, ran 14.0's at 101, with 2.3 and 2.4 60's. Lost traction again all the way through first, back and forth. Finally just decided to call it a night.
This isn't my first rodeo, as I've done 100 or so runs in my Camaro (6spd) at the same track. I simply could not get traction in first to save my life. For whatever reason the car would pop in and out of traction, and then randomly shift. I tried varying the launch technique, and finally lowered the tire pressure but it just made it all worse. Ugh, oh well, TOO MUCH POWER in first! The track was well prepped with VHT and the DA was solid, so I am not sure where I went wrong to cause so much wheel spin through first. Oh well, still had fun. And don't see a need for more mods if this is how it is! And I have every run on tape, so I will try to share the first three soon.
Nothing, broke, car is running great, which is most important to me. Density altitude was about 1500 DA first part of the night, about 1100 DA the last part of the night, which is pretty solid for AZ. The lines took about 5 minutes, so the intake was cool to the touch and the intercoolers were just warm to the touch for each run, having about one hour in between each, with a few back to back runs.
Mods are in Sig, also mixed about 4 gallons of 91 octane with 1 gallon of 100, making about 93'ish octane. Also removed every spare piece of weight from the car, including having only about a 1/4 tank of gas. I'm 165lb's.
Here is each run (followed 1320 racer's rules to the max):
1st: 13.975 @ 101.7, 2.178. Brake torqued it, spun a bit off the line, got traction at line 2KRPM, and finally lost traction again at 4KRPM. Car held 4KRPM for awhile with massive wheel hop. Then jumped into second at 4KRPM, car ran great after that.
2nd: 13.722 @ 103.64, 2.135. Pretty much just like the first run, except there was more traction in first, but the car did the same early shift at 4KRPM.
3rd: Best run ever! Brake torqued to 1KRPM, then did a harder launch. Got traction right away, lost it at 3KRPM, then rpms shot up to 4.5K, then got traction, then lost traction at 5.5KRPM, and the ZF held it in first at 5.5K rpm for a 1/3rd of the track, doing a massive burnout the entire way. Ran a 21 . Not sure why the car did this....?
4th/5th, ran 14.0's at 101, with 2.3 and 2.4 60's. Lost traction again all the way through first, back and forth. Finally just decided to call it a night.
This isn't my first rodeo, as I've done 100 or so runs in my Camaro (6spd) at the same track. I simply could not get traction in first to save my life. For whatever reason the car would pop in and out of traction, and then randomly shift. I tried varying the launch technique, and finally lowered the tire pressure but it just made it all worse. Ugh, oh well, TOO MUCH POWER in first! The track was well prepped with VHT and the DA was solid, so I am not sure where I went wrong to cause so much wheel spin through first. Oh well, still had fun. And don't see a need for more mods if this is how it is! And I have every run on tape, so I will try to share the first three soon.