What is this open pipe off air compressor..leaking
#1
What is this open pipe off air compressor..leaking
I have a newly acquired. 2000 V6 S type, lovely car but I am not familiar with it like my other jags just yet.
Can someone advise on what the open ended air con pipe is below, it comes off a large T connection of sorts off the side of the air compressor ...the other side of this T continues as a pipe into what looks like an oil cooler set up, no doubt to cool the refrigerant..
My question is, should this open pipe end be capped off or connected to something. It seems to be weeping.
The previous owner had the air con serviced, it works great, the air compressor was actually replaced, but wasn't the problem, then supposedly it was fixed.
Advice is appreciated.
Regards
Peter
Can someone advise on what the open ended air con pipe is below, it comes off a large T connection of sorts off the side of the air compressor ...the other side of this T continues as a pipe into what looks like an oil cooler set up, no doubt to cool the refrigerant..
My question is, should this open pipe end be capped off or connected to something. It seems to be weeping.
The previous owner had the air con serviced, it works great, the air compressor was actually replaced, but wasn't the problem, then supposedly it was fixed.
Advice is appreciated.
Regards
Peter
#2
That open line is the low-side AC service port. It should have a plastic cap on it. You can go to any parts store and ask for an R134a low-side cap. It's a universal size that will fit many cars.
Please note the cap is not meant to seal pressure inside the system. It's merely a dust cap to protect the valve inside. The arrangement is similar to a valve stem on a tire, but the size is different. The valve core threads into place.
The green seepage you're seeing is from a leak check dye that has been added to the refrigerant. It could be residual from last time the AC was serviced. You could spray a little aerosol electronic cleaner in there to flush it out. Don't use brake cleaner, as it may be too strong for the rubbery seal on the valve. Once clean, install a cap and check inside it after a few days. If you see any leakage, the valve core may need to be tightened a little bit. Here's one example of the tool needed to tighten the valve, a Mastercool 81290:
https://www.mastercool.com/product/v...rs-installers/
If you find the valve is leaking, and tightening it was no help, it can be replaced. You would have to do a full evacuation and recharge of the system, though. If you don't have the equipment, it's an easy job for any automotive shop.
Please note the cap is not meant to seal pressure inside the system. It's merely a dust cap to protect the valve inside. The arrangement is similar to a valve stem on a tire, but the size is different. The valve core threads into place.
The green seepage you're seeing is from a leak check dye that has been added to the refrigerant. It could be residual from last time the AC was serviced. You could spray a little aerosol electronic cleaner in there to flush it out. Don't use brake cleaner, as it may be too strong for the rubbery seal on the valve. Once clean, install a cap and check inside it after a few days. If you see any leakage, the valve core may need to be tightened a little bit. Here's one example of the tool needed to tighten the valve, a Mastercool 81290:
https://www.mastercool.com/product/v...rs-installers/
If you find the valve is leaking, and tightening it was no help, it can be replaced. You would have to do a full evacuation and recharge of the system, though. If you don't have the equipment, it's an easy job for any automotive shop.
The following 2 users liked this post by kr98664:
JagV8 (04-04-2024),
motorcarman (04-03-2024)
#3
That open line is the low-side AC service port. It should have a plastic cap on it. You can go to any parts store and ask for an R134a low-side cap. It's a universal size that will fit many cars.
Please note the cap is not meant to seal pressure inside the system. It's merely a dust cap to protect the valve inside. The arrangement is similar to a valve stem on a tire, but the size is different. The valve core threads into place.
The green seepage you're seeing is from a leak check dye that has been added to the refrigerant. It could be residual from last time the AC was serviced. You could spray a little aerosol electronic cleaner in there to flush it out. Don't use brake cleaner, as it may be too strong for the rubbery seal on the valve. Once clean, install a cap and check inside it after a few days. If you see any leakage, the valve core may need to be tightened a little bit. Here's one example of the tool needed to tighten the valve, a Mastercool 81290:
https://www.mastercool.com/product/v...rs-installers/
If you find the valve is leaking, and tightening it was no help, it can be replaced. You would have to do a full evacuation and recharge of the system, though. If you don't have the equipment, it's an easy job for any automotive shop.
Please note the cap is not meant to seal pressure inside the system. It's merely a dust cap to protect the valve inside. The arrangement is similar to a valve stem on a tire, but the size is different. The valve core threads into place.
The green seepage you're seeing is from a leak check dye that has been added to the refrigerant. It could be residual from last time the AC was serviced. You could spray a little aerosol electronic cleaner in there to flush it out. Don't use brake cleaner, as it may be too strong for the rubbery seal on the valve. Once clean, install a cap and check inside it after a few days. If you see any leakage, the valve core may need to be tightened a little bit. Here's one example of the tool needed to tighten the valve, a Mastercool 81290:
https://www.mastercool.com/product/v...rs-installers/
If you find the valve is leaking, and tightening it was no help, it can be replaced. You would have to do a full evacuation and recharge of the system, though. If you don't have the equipment, it's an easy job for any automotive shop.
very much appreciated !
Peter
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