Wheel Lug Nut Mystery
#1
Wheel Lug Nut Mystery
Hello everyone. I've joined this forum hoping you guys can help me solve this mystery regarding the lug nuts on my 2002 Jaguar S-Type 3.0.
When I bought my Jag new (back in late 2001) each wheel definitely had one of these lug nuts which I needed the key to remove:
Today, all five lug nuts on all four wheels looks like this:
I have no idea where the lock nut went (well, I do have a theory – I did get all four tires replaced at a Big-O tire dealer about 3-4 years ago) and although that certainly is a mystery it's not the one I'm here for today. You see, all four wheels have five identical standard looking lug nuts, but each one has one lug nut that feels like it's all one piece of solid metal, but the other four feel like there's a separate cap on each one with just a slight bit of play. I was able to remove the solid feeling nut from my front-right (the one that's flat) but it took a lot of force and I fear if I apply the same level of force to the other four I'm going to strip the caps off. What makes me even more reluctant to do this (and more confused) is something I read in another forum about the "various" or "different" (or words to that effect) lug nut anti-theft designs Jaguar has employed, and I've seen numerous references to an "extractor tube" used to remove the lug nut cap – which I've never even seen before let alone ever used to remove a tire (but last time was before the tire change when I still had the lock nut and key as pictured above). This "extractor tube" is also referenced in the "Wheel Changing" section of my Jag's manual, which is way to vague, has instructions that don't correctly correspond to the images, and doesn't mention the lock and key system that actually came with the car (manual's publishing date is July 2000).
So... Is it safe to put all 167 pounds of body weight on this cross wrench and remove them with brute force? Or do I now have a new anti-wheel-theft system that I need to get this "extractor tube" to get past? If so, will there be any more surprises once I get these caps off?
I used to be able to maintain my own vehicles back when I owned my beloved 1978 Toyota Corona, '82 Honda Accord, and '98 Mitsubishi Mirage (and currently owned 1925 Model T), but this Jag is like something that was reverse engineered from alien technology. So I really appreciate any guidance you all can provide. Thanks for your help.
Len
When I bought my Jag new (back in late 2001) each wheel definitely had one of these lug nuts which I needed the key to remove:
Today, all five lug nuts on all four wheels looks like this:
I have no idea where the lock nut went (well, I do have a theory – I did get all four tires replaced at a Big-O tire dealer about 3-4 years ago) and although that certainly is a mystery it's not the one I'm here for today. You see, all four wheels have five identical standard looking lug nuts, but each one has one lug nut that feels like it's all one piece of solid metal, but the other four feel like there's a separate cap on each one with just a slight bit of play. I was able to remove the solid feeling nut from my front-right (the one that's flat) but it took a lot of force and I fear if I apply the same level of force to the other four I'm going to strip the caps off. What makes me even more reluctant to do this (and more confused) is something I read in another forum about the "various" or "different" (or words to that effect) lug nut anti-theft designs Jaguar has employed, and I've seen numerous references to an "extractor tube" used to remove the lug nut cap – which I've never even seen before let alone ever used to remove a tire (but last time was before the tire change when I still had the lock nut and key as pictured above). This "extractor tube" is also referenced in the "Wheel Changing" section of my Jag's manual, which is way to vague, has instructions that don't correctly correspond to the images, and doesn't mention the lock and key system that actually came with the car (manual's publishing date is July 2000).
So... Is it safe to put all 167 pounds of body weight on this cross wrench and remove them with brute force? Or do I now have a new anti-wheel-theft system that I need to get this "extractor tube" to get past? If so, will there be any more surprises once I get these caps off?
I used to be able to maintain my own vehicles back when I owned my beloved 1978 Toyota Corona, '82 Honda Accord, and '98 Mitsubishi Mirage (and currently owned 1925 Model T), but this Jag is like something that was reverse engineered from alien technology. So I really appreciate any guidance you all can provide. Thanks for your help.
Len
#2
It sounds like the tire shop couldn't find the key to the locking lug nuts. Any tire shop will have a set of special sockets with internal teeth to grab and remove locking lug nuts. It boogers them up, so they replaced the one locking lug nut per wheel with the solid lug nut you've described, but didn't tell you.
The other four lug nuts per wheel, with the floating stainless cover? Those are the original factory lug nuts, a well known source of grief. They have no special locking feature, other than they often won't come off when needed due to the Spin-O-Matic decorative cover. The poorly fitting factory lug wrench doesn't help, either.
Do yourself a YUGE favor and upgrade all of the lug nuts to a solid design. I've installed Dorman 611-117 lug nuts on my '02 and have been very pleased with them. The Dormans have a chrome plating and some folks have reported a little rust, but mine have been fine for several years now. A spendier option is Chrysler MB579290, a stainless steel version that will hold up better if exposed to road salt. Both are available online from various sources.
To remove the existing factory lug nuts, use a socket and breaker bar, not the factory lug wrench. That thing is embarrassing, it is so sloppy. The replacement lug nuts take a smaller wrench than stock, so make sure you get the correct size wrench and stow it with the spare.
More reading here, including how to dispose of the originals:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t-goes-116757/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...al-tips-93257/
The other four lug nuts per wheel, with the floating stainless cover? Those are the original factory lug nuts, a well known source of grief. They have no special locking feature, other than they often won't come off when needed due to the Spin-O-Matic decorative cover. The poorly fitting factory lug wrench doesn't help, either.
Do yourself a YUGE favor and upgrade all of the lug nuts to a solid design. I've installed Dorman 611-117 lug nuts on my '02 and have been very pleased with them. The Dormans have a chrome plating and some folks have reported a little rust, but mine have been fine for several years now. A spendier option is Chrysler MB579290, a stainless steel version that will hold up better if exposed to road salt. Both are available online from various sources.
To remove the existing factory lug nuts, use a socket and breaker bar, not the factory lug wrench. That thing is embarrassing, it is so sloppy. The replacement lug nuts take a smaller wrench than stock, so make sure you get the correct size wrench and stow it with the spare.
More reading here, including how to dispose of the originals:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t-goes-116757/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...al-tips-93257/
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Don B (05-15-2019)
#3
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Don B (05-15-2019)
#4
#5
#6
My lugs look stock but they seem to work just fine. Thanks for the post and I'll take another look.
In the 35+yrs I've been playing with cars here is my default way of TQ-ing them.
- Use only 6pt socket
- Put one drop of engine oil on studs threads (or bolts on cars like Z3's)
- Soft TQ all by hand using socket and rotating wheel. (this makes it square to hub and helps to center on nuts / hub.
- Soft TQ all to about 30 ft lbs (guessing & using cross pattern sequence)
- Soft TQ all to about 50 ft lbs (TQ wrench & using cross pattern sequence)
- Hard TQ all to spec (if I don't know spec I use 90 ft lbs & using TQ wrench & cross pattern sequence)
In the 35+yrs I've been playing with cars here is my default way of TQ-ing them.
- Use only 6pt socket
- Put one drop of engine oil on studs threads (or bolts on cars like Z3's)
- Soft TQ all by hand using socket and rotating wheel. (this makes it square to hub and helps to center on nuts / hub.
- Soft TQ all to about 30 ft lbs (guessing & using cross pattern sequence)
- Soft TQ all to about 50 ft lbs (TQ wrench & using cross pattern sequence)
- Hard TQ all to spec (if I don't know spec I use 90 ft lbs & using TQ wrench & cross pattern sequence)
Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 05-06-2019 at 11:42 AM.
#7
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Don B (05-15-2019)
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Other makes say the same thing.
As an OEM engineer... we have a "SPEC". (I in part write specs) Part of those specs is having to account for monkeys used in place of skilled mechanics. Monkey who do things like only tighten 50%, leave fasteners off, cross thread, strip out, ect....
Wearing my employment hat... adding a lubricant to a lug nut / stud would be a HUGE legal risk. It's not tested, not validated, and won't hold if improperly torqued.
Wearing my hat of reality... 1 drop of engine oil and proper soft tq then final tq... ;-)
btw, I have checked torque retention after adding different amounts of oil.
As an OEM engineer... we have a "SPEC". (I in part write specs) Part of those specs is having to account for monkeys used in place of skilled mechanics. Monkey who do things like only tighten 50%, leave fasteners off, cross thread, strip out, ect....
Wearing my employment hat... adding a lubricant to a lug nut / stud would be a HUGE legal risk. It's not tested, not validated, and won't hold if improperly torqued.
Wearing my hat of reality... 1 drop of engine oil and proper soft tq then final tq... ;-)
btw, I have checked torque retention after adding different amounts of oil.
#10
I had these OEM joke of a lugnut set when I got mine. Some redneck at Firestone promptly stripped one and broke on off on his first two lugs. We have a specialist here in Birmingham when it comes to removing junk lugs from jag, bmw, benz, audi, and others. There is so much business from screw head tire stores, this all he does. That is a wow. But, if a member wants to take a stab at it, PB Blaster is your friend. Spray, let sit and then spray again. I have helped a few bmw friends "get 'em loose". I also use a Harbor Freight ELECTRIC 1/2 drive impact drill with as SIX sided deep socket from O'Reillys. Their brand has thinner sidewalls and won't touch the paint if you hold it straight. I've not ever broken a stud doing this but a 25" breaker bar surely will. The impact drill isn't strong enough to do any damage.
My jag has these lugs These are one piece. They are a size larger but work nicely 13/16" . For a little over $31, can't go wrong.
They have been great. I use a tiny bit of anti-seize and torque to 95 ft. pds
That's my 2 cents.
I see
My jag has these lugs These are one piece. They are a size larger but work nicely 13/16" . For a little over $31, can't go wrong.
They have been great. I use a tiny bit of anti-seize and torque to 95 ft. pds
That's my 2 cents.
I see
#11
When I replaced my damaged 10 spoke stock wheels with alleged Jaguar aftermarket ones (someone said they were for an X-type, but I can't confirm), the original split lug nuts were too wide for the replacement wheels. Don't laugh, but stock lug nuts from a similar year Ford Taurus fit like a champ, and I will never have to deal with the split lug nut headache.
#12
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Warspite (05-15-2019)
#13
This site may help you identify what wheels you have if you suspect they didn't come on the car. https://www.finishlinewheels.com/JAGUAR/S-TYPE/2001/ Just put in your model and check it out.
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Warspite (05-15-2019)
#14
#16
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Warspite (05-18-2019)
#17
Previous owner had Jag center caps already installed, and they were never mounted. And the set of 4 were a steal. The only bargain S-Type component I've run into!
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