first, Plus one on everything PLUMS has said above.

Next, you don't have a CV in the front; can't be that. I'd like you to be sure that the noise you hear in reverse when cold is DEFINITELY the same noise you hear during right-turns at speed. My gut tells me that since your tire-sizes are also suspect, you may have a clearance issue and your right front tire is hitting the fender-liner. that'll make exactly the sound you're describing, but not when stationary. Check that out for us.

Next: here's how you check your motor-mounts: Pop the hood. Get in the car, and you'll notice that you can see the top of the motor under the back edge of the hood when raised. Start the car. Put the car into drive. While holding the brake firmly with your left foot (DON'T LET OFF THE BRAKE!) rev the motor with your right foot. If the motor mounts are bad, it'll look like this:


If the motor mounts are GOOD, it'll look like this:


there is nothing in the motor mounts that'll "click".

so your homework for today:
1. Check the motor mounts per the videos above.
2. verify when the "clicking" sound occurs, and that it is the same sound at rest as it is as speed.
3. tell us what size tires you have, front and rear.

 

There was another poster here just recently that had a video of how an engine reacts when there's a broken mount. Perhaps the poster will see this an bump his post so you could try the same test to confirm a broken mount. Essentially, with the hood open, rev the engine quickly to see if it 'jumps' or not.

Ooops- I see Mcj has already posted it. Cool.

Your noise while cornering is probably a different issue,

 

Good one Mcjaguar.

 

So.... what are the tire sizes (see my prev post)?

 

Hey !I think that's the size I had on my '67 Mini Cooper!

 

Lol!

 

If he's diag the air bag and dsc as cancelation module and pedal travel sensor. Yes the cancellation module will make the light come and go. Most often when you move the steering wheel. The lights off when you start and then comes on after the steering wheel is move at some point and it sees a resistance variance that throws that code.
Dsc , the pedal travel sensor is sevicable seperatly and is pretty easy to do, just dont lose the retaining clip.
Motor mounts, look at them underneath the car. If theres purple staining theyre bad. Trans mounts seldom go bad unless theres a trans leak all over them.
If it where mine, ide change the trans pan, sleeve, and fill. Damn theres alot of love in the stpye forum

 

Hello ALL! So I did some homework and my mounts are def. bad there was pleny of movement in the engine when pressing the gas pedal actually looked almost identical to the previous video of bad mounts. What's next? I assume look for a good indie mechanic? Does this confirm the mysterious clicking noise?

Also, drove home today from work (approx 12 miles) and ZERO alerts, no DSC alert and no airbag alerts. Go figure! No airbag alert for almost two days in a row and only a DSC alerts in the mornings.

FYI, my tires sizes are Front: 245/40 ZR18 / Rear: 285/35 ZR18 <---- DSC issue?

Keep the advice coming, muchos thank you's!

 

It's not the tire size.

It's worth making sure no idiot put one very different tire on - yes, we've had that - and that the pressures are sane, but go with what Brutal said anyway.

 

My 2005 has 97k just got it and made the appt for jag dealer on mon. Very nervous but hope she gets a clean bill of health. This whole week my stomach is in knots. Some people can throw around cash and fix things DIY. But being very mechanically limited I don't have a choice on many things.

Hope yours works out not that expensive.

I'll let you know my "TEST RESULTS" monday. EEK

 

that tire size is not a issue. like I said, if he pulled codes and said brake booster. the brake booster has the pedal travel sensor mounted in it and it IS servicable by itself. Ive run 275/40/18 and 255/40/18 on my VDP that originally came with 225/50/16 and it does not screw with trac or ABS. I wouldnt worry about thew clicking noise right now. work with what you know and go from there. You may fix several issues with one repair, so stick to the known like motor mounts for now and then go from there. A Jaguar not go 200k? please just takes maintenance like anything else, be it house, motorcycle, car marriage etc....
And yes the ZF trans is totally rebuildable(by someone that knows what theyre doing) that trans is in many many brands. BMW, BENZ, JAG, LAND ROVERS, I think AUDIS too. Theyre damn good trannies and most of their common issues are software like adaptations drift, clearing adaptations and making sure software is up to date are most of the problem fixers, theyre pretty robust and YES I DO recommend a pan drop and refill no more than every 100k.
Your only really big issue is the rubber coolant hose under the intake that leaks about now. The hose and associated other parts for this repair are relativley cheap, but the labor is extensive and not for the mechanically meek

 

Yes, the ZF is in Audis. Also Aston Martin, Hyundai, Kia, Maserati and others.

 

that might be the weird smell im smelling and then finding mist all over right side of engine cover

 

Worth effort to try to find its source, as it could be something easy but whatever it is it's gonna need fixing.

 

nope, if that hose is leaking on a sc car youll never see coolant up top. Youll see all down the back of the engine and trans

 

Ditto to Brutal.

 

Oh btw today the jag dealer said that my tranny mounts are going bad. How big of a deal is that?

 

Why is it bad, theyre not common to fail

 

I don't know they just said they were bad>

but on the upside they had my car in the garage for 2 1/2 hours and didn't charge me. Maybe they forgot LOL but ill gladly keep that 235$

 

Only one transmission mount but they don't seem to go bad?? Don't remember anyone changing one out? The motor mounts take a lot torque especially on the STR and we are seeing more people replacing these.
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