Write-up on Quiescent Current Drain
#21
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I'll order a door latch, which is the least of my problems now having got some plastic stuck in my ignition barrel. 🥴
It should see 0ohms, but the latch never gets to that. Might be why my lights sometimes flash on and off occasionally, and again when I open it.
I disconnected the door module but the car saw the door then as open, so it was pointless.
Next up Locksmith and a door latch, which, looking at the numbers ordered is a common problem.
It should see 0ohms, but the latch never gets to that. Might be why my lights sometimes flash on and off occasionally, and again when I open it.
I disconnected the door module but the car saw the door then as open, so it was pointless.
Next up Locksmith and a door latch, which, looking at the numbers ordered is a common problem.
I'm guessing you know there is a microswitch in there, which tells the car when the key is in or out. This will prevent the car sleeping. Even with ignition off but key in the car remains awake.
#22
#23
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An additional thought for the test procedure. As written in the PDF (in post #1), once you connect the ammeter to the battery, you then close the trunk and wait for the car to enter sleep mode, etc. The trunk can be closed on the meter leads as the seal is pliant enough not to crush them. Although this would work just fine, my thoughts are it would be a lot more convenient to have the trunk open while troubleshooting.
To do this, you can rig the switch to simulate the trunk being closed. But first, make sure the switch operates properly when the trunk is closed. From inside the trunk, unlock either seatback and push it forward. With the trunk still open and the battery connected as normal, make sure the interior light illuminates properly. Close the trunk, and from inside the cabin, make sure the trunk light turns off. You would know the trunk switch is operating properly and it's safe to rig it to the closed position. I think some heavy tape would be all that is needed. Now you could leave the trunk open for easier access to the battery and any fuses and relays back there, but the lighting and security systems would think the trunk is closed.
To do this, you can rig the switch to simulate the trunk being closed. But first, make sure the switch operates properly when the trunk is closed. From inside the trunk, unlock either seatback and push it forward. With the trunk still open and the battery connected as normal, make sure the interior light illuminates properly. Close the trunk, and from inside the cabin, make sure the trunk light turns off. You would know the trunk switch is operating properly and it's safe to rig it to the closed position. I think some heavy tape would be all that is needed. Now you could leave the trunk open for easier access to the battery and any fuses and relays back there, but the lighting and security systems would think the trunk is closed.
Last edited by kr98664; 04-02-2021 at 06:05 AM.
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