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2. I can’t find the solenoid strip filter that is inside the valve body. I just made up that name bc I don’t know what it is called. I just know I want to replace it with a new filter. Part removed from the valve body, now shown removing the filter on question. Filter removed, shown in his hand. I think the new ones are white. Foam sections that filter fluid immediately before entering the solenoid.
Anyone know where I can get one of those filters? And It seems the solenoids from link above will work for my ‘03 STR (has the ZF 6HP26 trans)... yes?
Thank you for your thoughts
Last edited by Reklaw1973; 12-17-2019 at 01:13 PM.
Reason: Forgot something and formatting
Thanks for that super detailed info!
Lets hope I never need to use it lol
I suppose I should rephrase the question...
I am preparing to remove and service the mechatronic valve body, change the seals between the valve body and the transmission body, replace the pan (with associated pan gasket and o-ring) and refill using the proper method (which I do already know).
1. When looking for proper parts, all 6hp26 parts refer to use in a BMW. I would like to think that the parts will work for my transmission, but would love to be sure before I buy them and end up disassembled on the bench.
2. I can’t seem to find the long gasket between the mechatronic computer and the solenoids. Anyone found this before? A link would be awesome
Ordered solenoids, new pan, bridge gasket, tube gaskets and fluid.
Drained. Fought tooth and nail to get a few of the old bolts off, removed the pan. Disconnected mechatronic plug, removed sleeve, Removed valve body.
Bridge gasket BODY seemed slightly thicker than old one I removed (the body, not the rubber gaskets). But it fit on ok.
Removed tube gaskets and replaced with perfectly matching new ones.
Went to the bench with the valve body.
Removed computer, and found no foam strip gasket between computer and solenoids. So I put my new one in place.
Removed solenoid and compared to the ones I ordered.
The ones I ordered seemed... rebuilt. Mine looked fine (or better) and they didn’t have a opening on the back like mine did.
“New” solenoids in plastic bags, lined up against original solenoids in valve body. New solenoids are obviously different despite my serious efforts to get the right ones for my car.
Some had the square holes in the back, some didn’t. I decided not to change the old for the new.
Put the computer back on the valve body. Tightened bolts to spec.
Installed valve body, mec sleeve, connected mech plug, installed new pan and new fluid per fill procedure.
Initial driving test was good. Moved on to tcm relearning. First two acceleration to 55-60mph and decelerations to <15mph went fine.
Third ended halfway through with P1643 and restricted performance. Pulled over, reset codes and continued.
Finished two more runs without incident, returned to the garage. I could have got some residual fluid on the mec wires or plug, so I did my best to hit it with contact cleaner spray without jacking up the car to ward off the P1643 evil spirits.
Parked the car, loaded up items, drove 20miles home. Car drive great, one single delayed shift between 3-4th gears after a red light. She was driving much better.
I parallel park at home, and the final time I shift into reverse I get the gearbox fault code again. Used Icarsoft again to clear code from TCM.
All was well again, but hmmmmm....
Unloaded the car and went to bed.
The next morning I used the remote start, and went outside after 15min to find “Gearbox fault - Restricted performance”.
Now the iCarsoft doesn’t show the TCM and I can’t get the codes cleared. Eventually removed the positive battery line from the battery for 10min and after this the codes were still there:
P1643 (and P1000 of course).
I am about to burn this stupid nightmare of a car in a furnace... and go buy a Tesla.
I am seriously over the whole money pit, work on the car more than you drive it, never ending chain of **** going wrong, frustrating stuff that just kills all confidence I have in the car. I just don’t feel comfortable stomping on it and driving the car the way it is designed. So I get no love from my car anymore. What’s the use.
If this isn’t an easy fix, I’m seriously Tesla shopping.
Very sorry to read/see your issues here.
This is what my new solenoid valve set up looks like on my 2005 XJR. Same ZF6HP26 trans as yours. There was no "gasket" on mine when I replaced the solenoids.
I have a hard fault in my transmission and am in the process of rebuilding it which is why your post caught my eye.
I just changed my fluid but didnt touch the pan or innards as know how **** can go sideways like that.
is there a reason to change any of the stuff inside if its working?
My service was to prevent the sealed for death scenario.
The seal thingy whatever it's called that fits between the tranny and the torque converter is what has been recommended here because it tends to leak at some point, it's not expensive, so while you're at it with the pan and fluid include that. That's what I did anyway and I was having no codes or performance issue. I was in the 50-60K mileage range though. I ended doing two fluid exchanges with a pause in between to reduce the amount of original fluid still floating around in the system. I forget the calculations but after two it's definitely insignificant.
My service was to prevent the sealed for death scenario.
The seal thingy whatever it's called that fits between the tranny and the torque converter is what has been recommended here because it tends to leak at some point, it's not expensive, so while you're at it with the pan and fluid include that. That's what I did anyway and I was having no codes or performance issue. I was in the 50-60K mileage range though. I ended doing two fluid exchanges with a pause in between to reduce the amount of original fluid still floating around in the system. I forget the calculations but after two it's definitely insignificant.
the seal behind the toque convertor require splitting the engine and transmission so its a huge job
In removal of the valve body I managed to get some trans fluid on the connector pins of the valve body computer connection and/or
(Note) The mec sleeve WAS challenging to get seated when I replaced it
I could have gotten fluid on the connector plug when reconnecting
If there is fluid somewhere in that connection causing this issue, what is the proper way to clean the fluid out? And, do I need to drain the trans, removed the valve body again to clean the pins? Or is there some magic spray/contact cleaner that can do the job without dropping the valve body... again?
I guess I’m hoping I can disconnect the plug, spray in contact cleaner and reconnect to solve the issue, vs doing a big part of this job again.
the seal behind the toque convertor require splitting the engine and transmission so its a huge job
Sorry, I'm describing it wrong. No this piece goes in while the pan is off. I just can't remember what it's called. It's a bit fussy changing it but that's the only other part you should typically do. Do a search on my tranny service thread.It's listed in there.
After a visit to the dealer to diagnose the cause of the P1643 code, it seems that the problem was the new Mechatronic sleeve that I installed was still loose.
Me: Ok, can you give me an estimate to fix it?
Dealer: Sure!
Me: Oh, and can you also give me an estimate to replace the solenoids while you’re in there please?
Dealer: Err... solenoids? What solenoids?
Me: I will just pick the car up, thanks.
Anyway, They wanted $1200 to fix this sleeve problem; so obviously I had to towed back to my workshop.
I did all the work to remove the newly installed sleeve and compared it to the old one. The new sleeve appeared to be ever so slightly larger than the old one. Just barely noticeable under close scrutiny.
Since I replaced the old sleeve on the principal of, “while I’m in there I might as well”... and there was no leak with the old one... I just put the old one back where it was. It went in beautifully.
I sprayed some contact cleaner into the sleeve to clean any potential fluid that may have gotten on the TCM connector pins and sprayed the CAN connector as well.
After letting them dry for a while I put the whole thing back together and filled the fluid.
No more codes and after a brief learning period everything seems to be working perfectly.
So for now, unless you hear back from me again with another update just assume all is well and the job is finally done.
As usual, it’s my own mess ups that cause the most trouble lol
Amazon said it fit but looking at the match it may have told me it was not exactly the right kit. So hard to find the right parts for this car.
In the end what worked was the pan and the adapter gasket. The sleeve ended up not quite fitting.
I bought the tube gaskets separately and they fit fine, and the solenoids I bought weren’t an exact match so I didn’t replace the original and got a refund. They didn’t seem to be causing any problems anyway, it was just another “while I am in there” thing.
Last edited by Reklaw1973; 01-22-2020 at 04:32 PM.
Reason: Link didn’t work
Also as a side note, I believe that If the solenoids are replaced the driver adaptations will need to be reset on the transmission. I have not done this on mine at the moment. I've seen BMW owners on You Tube do it with the same Trans as the Jag so I'm almost certain the drive adaptations need to be reset (maybe someone that's done it can verify if, or if it doesn't need to be done?)
I purchased, recurved and installed the correct solenoids. Test drive went fine, but the weather was snowy and bad so I parked the car. Once things got a little nicer I had to replace a wiper arm. Snow on the hood so I started the car in idle.
After several minutes in idle, threw the same P1643 code, with restricted performance.
She was in park the whole time.
Cleared the code and every time it just comes back after several min.
I have a call into a local trans shop with good reviews, and after twice calling to schedule an appointment they say they will call back and they don’t.
Over it.
I am not getting rid of the car, but I have already ordered a Tesla. She will just be a project car I guess.
At some point I will probably get her fixed, but right now I’m over spending more time fixing than driving.
So once I get her fixed I will update.
Until then, know the transmission service wasn’t super hard. I just am out of the desire to keep fixing. Probably in the spring.
Update in the mindset of keeping good info on threads
Got the car into a trans shop with great reviews.
First, she needed a new battery. Got the new battery in and we have two problems:
1. Something between the engine and the bell housing is leaking pretty bad, so the transmission needs to come out to repair the leak.
2. TCM is not communicating properly, repair shop says it will need a new TCM and they can’t find one aftermarket. Even if they do, it will need programmed by the dealer.
My search for TCM finds only the kit (part number C2C6718) that includes the whole valve body assembly, pan TCM etc. Cost from dealer is over $3k and from classic it’s still close to that mark.
Questions:
1. Can the TCM be flashed and reprogrammed?
2. Could the shop be wrong and the CAN bus be the problem? Maybe the ECM?
3. Could I possibly pull a TCM out of a wreck in the junkyard and use it?
4. How about a full, rebuilt 6HP26 replacement, does it come with VB, TCM, pan and everything?
5. Is the best answer to light the car on fire and dance around it until it explodes, killing me in the process?
I am already upside down a lot on this car, but the only other answer I see is basically parting/junking her out. Hate that idea too.
12-17-2019, 01:12 PM
ZF 6HP26 pan replacement and service RESOLVED
