ZF transmission oil and sleeve change writeup with pics FAQ
#41
03-10-2010, 06:14 AM
#44
03-21-2010, 06:17 PM
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At last someone's done it
Replaced that leaking sleeve...
Mine's been leaking for 2 years now...the dealer told me I needed a new gearbox.."sealed for life"..I thought I would just do it myself...cheaper than a new gearbox, especially as mine operates perfectly..no lurch etc. I bought the sleeve about 6 months ago, but just had this feeling the job might be more difficult than first appears...My wife's Merc has a similar gearbox but the sleeve is held in by a central bolt and I wasn't sure if the Jag one needed to be disconected from the circuit board inside the gearbox...also had a fear of the end "O" ring falling into the transmission.
Thanks CCC ..looks pretty straightforward...I'm going to give it a go.
Next question....anybody on here changed the air bag cassette (clock spring)?
Mine's been leaking for 2 years now...the dealer told me I needed a new gearbox.."sealed for life"..I thought I would just do it myself...cheaper than a new gearbox, especially as mine operates perfectly..no lurch etc. I bought the sleeve about 6 months ago, but just had this feeling the job might be more difficult than first appears...My wife's Merc has a similar gearbox but the sleeve is held in by a central bolt and I wasn't sure if the Jag one needed to be disconected from the circuit board inside the gearbox...also had a fear of the end "O" ring falling into the transmission.
Thanks CCC ..looks pretty straightforward...I'm going to give it a go.
Next question....anybody on here changed the air bag cassette (clock spring)?
#45
03-22-2010, 07:15 AM
Veteran Member
Look at this thread
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t=clock+spring
pay attention to post #5
Please start a new thread when commenting.
#46
03-26-2010, 12:11 PM
Again, thanks for the thread, bit of an update on costs - I just ordered bits - from ZF trans (Nat and Scott) - today, 03/26/2010
0501-216-243 filter/pan $165.79
0501-216-272 Sleeve $14.52
0636-308-016 Fill Plug $5.16
0736-101-486 Screws $2.24 ea (!!!) I did not order these, see below
I plan on using grade 10.9, M6X30mm hex head with a washer to get back to 28.5mm thread length. Anyone know if the hex head instead of the pan will present tool clearance issues? These fasteners are easily attainable at McMaster, and even buying 50 of 'em is at least less than going with the OE, and if I can get at the heads easier, bonus to me.
I, too, am going with the Redline product (have used them before in my E30 M3, as well as the Contour SVT).
That's all I've got.
0501-216-243 filter/pan $165.79
0501-216-272 Sleeve $14.52
0636-308-016 Fill Plug $5.16
0736-101-486 Screws $2.24 ea (!!!) I did not order these, see below
I plan on using grade 10.9, M6X30mm hex head with a washer to get back to 28.5mm thread length. Anyone know if the hex head instead of the pan will present tool clearance issues? These fasteners are easily attainable at McMaster, and even buying 50 of 'em is at least less than going with the OE, and if I can get at the heads easier, bonus to me.
I, too, am going with the Redline product (have used them before in my E30 M3, as well as the Contour SVT).
That's all I've got.
#47
03-26-2010, 06:13 PM
Jar,
Did you check the website in the link, those updated screws are only $0.39 each but other ZF dealers will charge $2.50.
I don't remember if its all or most, but most of the screws go through the pan and through the transmission casing then sticks out in the air on the outside; so I don't think the overall length of the screw matters to much in those cases.
With the right diameter and thickness of the washer to spread the pressure, it seems like it would work. There isn't much torque on these bolts anyway. Corrosion resistance would be important, what material would you use - stainless? Let me know if you need the diameter of the bolt head...I have a few extra to measure.
BTW, make sure you have the odd sized torx to get the old ones out. The common size results in a loose fit that strips easily. 60% of the work is getting the old screws out.
Did you check the website in the link, those updated screws are only $0.39 each but other ZF dealers will charge $2.50.
I don't remember if its all or most, but most of the screws go through the pan and through the transmission casing then sticks out in the air on the outside; so I don't think the overall length of the screw matters to much in those cases.
With the right diameter and thickness of the washer to spread the pressure, it seems like it would work. There isn't much torque on these bolts anyway. Corrosion resistance would be important, what material would you use - stainless? Let me know if you need the diameter of the bolt head...I have a few extra to measure.
BTW, make sure you have the odd sized torx to get the old ones out. The common size results in a loose fit that strips easily. 60% of the work is getting the old screws out.
#48
03-27-2010, 10:27 AM
CCC
Yah, I used your link, ZFtransparts, Eriksson Industries out of Conneticut, I believe.
I contacted them direct, as I was having some difficulty finding some of the PN's (I think the one on the pan/filter) you had previously listed - so I thought maybe they had kitted something up and just had not posted it. The PN's and $$$ I listed were what they said I needed. I asked them if they had any room to move on the fasteners (one stop shopping, you know?), and I got nothing, so I left them off my order.
I had the same thought on the fasteners regarding slipping a washer in there - figured I'd get the length, and spread the load a bit, and get a better head style in this particular location. I think from the ZF docs I found, the pan calls for 8Nm+/- 0.8Nm (70lb-in +/- 7lb-in), so yeah not a lot of torque. I was mostly concerned about tool clearance, as that would be the only reason I would spec a torx or allen type drive in a location such as this when selecting the fastener.
Given the torque range, stainless becomes a possibility (and is available), but I was actually looking at the grade 10.9 (equivalent to our grade 8's), and weighing that spec a bit more heavily. Fastenal/McMaster both offer SS, but if you want the 10.9 class, the best you can do is get a zinc coating. But now you at least have a hex to get a socket on down the road, instead of torx.....I should also say here that I am unaware of what grade the OE fastener might be, nor do I have one in my hand to inspect identifiers
The M6 gets me the diameter info, and I would think the pitch is 1.0, but Fastenal also offered a .75, which I wouldn't think an OE engineer would spec - but then again, I wouldn't expect a panhead with a torx drive to be selected here either.
If you could confirm the pitch, I would appreciate it greatly.
I'm planning on getting things up on jacks maybe on Sunday (suppose I could confirm myself then, nach), and riding the motorbike in this coming week. Should be drained as well as it is going to get by Thur when my fluids (Redline) and new pan show up.
My previous BMW ownership has ensured that my torx selection is magnificient (both inside and outside shapes), as well as my vast array of crow's feet, extensions, and oh yes, even wobble extensions (14" 1/4 drive I'm particularly proud of)! But, thank you for your concern.
Again thanks for the original post, I'll let you know how mine turns out.
Yah, I used your link, ZFtransparts, Eriksson Industries out of Conneticut, I believe.
I contacted them direct, as I was having some difficulty finding some of the PN's (I think the one on the pan/filter) you had previously listed - so I thought maybe they had kitted something up and just had not posted it. The PN's and $$$ I listed were what they said I needed. I asked them if they had any room to move on the fasteners (one stop shopping, you know?), and I got nothing, so I left them off my order.
I had the same thought on the fasteners regarding slipping a washer in there - figured I'd get the length, and spread the load a bit, and get a better head style in this particular location. I think from the ZF docs I found, the pan calls for 8Nm+/- 0.8Nm (70lb-in +/- 7lb-in), so yeah not a lot of torque. I was mostly concerned about tool clearance, as that would be the only reason I would spec a torx or allen type drive in a location such as this when selecting the fastener.
Given the torque range, stainless becomes a possibility (and is available), but I was actually looking at the grade 10.9 (equivalent to our grade 8's), and weighing that spec a bit more heavily. Fastenal/McMaster both offer SS, but if you want the 10.9 class, the best you can do is get a zinc coating. But now you at least have a hex to get a socket on down the road, instead of torx.....I should also say here that I am unaware of what grade the OE fastener might be, nor do I have one in my hand to inspect identifiers
The M6 gets me the diameter info, and I would think the pitch is 1.0, but Fastenal also offered a .75, which I wouldn't think an OE engineer would spec - but then again, I wouldn't expect a panhead with a torx drive to be selected here either.
If you could confirm the pitch, I would appreciate it greatly.
I'm planning on getting things up on jacks maybe on Sunday (suppose I could confirm myself then, nach), and riding the motorbike in this coming week. Should be drained as well as it is going to get by Thur when my fluids (Redline) and new pan show up.
My previous BMW ownership has ensured that my torx selection is magnificient (both inside and outside shapes), as well as my vast array of crow's feet, extensions, and oh yes, even wobble extensions (14" 1/4 drive I'm particularly proud of)! But, thank you for your concern.
Again thanks for the original post, I'll let you know how mine turns out.
#49
03-27-2010, 11:50 AM
The last several times I've purchased the screws they were $2.xx something each. I know the ws lists them at $.39, but I believe that was for the old screws with the #27 torx head. The new ones have a #30 torx head. The last time I asked, they just say they haven't updated their online pricelist.
Both the pan and sleeve listed and priced above are more than the last time I've purchased which was just back in Feb.
The screws or some facsimili are essential as you'll destroy at least half of the old ones trying to get them out. If you're going to do frequent changes consider using anti-seize on the screws going back in. If you think this will be a one shot change, then don't bother with the anti-seize
This is a very good writeup BTW!
Both the pan and sleeve listed and priced above are more than the last time I've purchased which was just back in Feb.
The screws or some facsimili are essential as you'll destroy at least half of the old ones trying to get them out. If you're going to do frequent changes consider using anti-seize on the screws going back in. If you think this will be a one shot change, then don't bother with the anti-seize
This is a very good writeup BTW!
#50
03-27-2010, 12:09 PM
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#51
03-27-2010, 01:57 PM
Jar,
Just checked with a thread gauge, its M6x1mm pitch. The head diameter is 0.69" and its 0.181" thick incase you want to get washers that match. I don't know what the material of the OEM screws are, but the old ones are plated with a gold/bronze color and the new ones look like its SS. Won't worry about tool clearance, all of the screws face down with plenty of clearance. The only PIA is the drain bolt. With a hex plug, it bent one of my wrenches and required two wrenches on the hex and my foot to loosen
Interesting, the ones I bought are T40 and the old ones are T27. My invoice dated 12/31/09 shows list at $2.42 and net at $0.39. Maybe they are charging more for it now.
Brutal,
I also noticed about a 2-3deg difference between the pan and the hot fluid dripping out of the fill hole. I think the temp difference between the pan and the internal sensor is critical, so thanks for the calibration data and the orginal idea to use an IR gun.
Just checked with a thread gauge, its M6x1mm pitch. The head diameter is 0.69" and its 0.181" thick incase you want to get washers that match. I don't know what the material of the OEM screws are, but the old ones are plated with a gold/bronze color and the new ones look like its SS. Won't worry about tool clearance, all of the screws face down with plenty of clearance. The only PIA is the drain bolt. With a hex plug, it bent one of my wrenches and required two wrenches on the hex and my foot to loosen
Interesting, the ones I bought are T40 and the old ones are T27. My invoice dated 12/31/09 shows list at $2.42 and net at $0.39. Maybe they are charging more for it now.
Brutal,
I also noticed about a 2-3deg difference between the pan and the hot fluid dripping out of the fill hole. I think the temp difference between the pan and the internal sensor is critical, so thanks for the calibration data and the orginal idea to use an IR gun.
#52
03-27-2010, 03:01 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Its not critical like you might think, there is a "range" thats okay and it does take some time to get it even up to the temp range. Ive been guilty of racing around trying to get the fluid in before it gets too hot, only to check temp and find i wasnt even close. Now for ya'll in your driveway, on your backs, upside down and dealing with hot exhaust, that might be different....
#53
03-28-2010, 07:34 AM
I think the new screws are SS. I haven't taken a file to one. I have some in my shop. I'll check it.
I use a direct temp probe. I have one with a curved thermocouple the actually hooks onto the filler hole. If I had a gun I'd probably use it.
It takes about 20 mins. to get the correct temp. I think about 20 mins, like Brutal, I'm ususally racing around gettings the correct fluid in after the intial start, gear shift, etc. If you are on your back, this actually helps as getting from the front seat to the fill plug is easier than working with a lift, but harder getting fluid in. I've done it both ways.
As said, there is a temp range, with a correct temp of 40 deg C. The fluid is expanding as it is warming. Essentially, at 30C there is too much fluid in the trans as you've filled it until it leaks at around that temp. As it warms it will begin spilling. When 40C is hit I pull the probe and cap it. You can go past 40C, but as you approach 50C more and more fluid will come out as it expands. By 50C, the fluid level will be too low. If you reach that point, basically you have to stop everything, let it cool back down to 30C and refill, try again. As Brutal suggests, the fill instructions say that somewhere in the range of 40C to 50C the level will be acceptable.
If you haven't done one, and so you don't panic, the fluid temp rises rather slowly. 1C every couple of minutes. It is not going to shoot the temp off the scale before you can react.
I use a direct temp probe. I have one with a curved thermocouple the actually hooks onto the filler hole. If I had a gun I'd probably use it.
It takes about 20 mins. to get the correct temp. I think about 20 mins, like Brutal, I'm ususally racing around gettings the correct fluid in after the intial start, gear shift, etc. If you are on your back, this actually helps as getting from the front seat to the fill plug is easier than working with a lift, but harder getting fluid in. I've done it both ways.
As said, there is a temp range, with a correct temp of 40 deg C. The fluid is expanding as it is warming. Essentially, at 30C there is too much fluid in the trans as you've filled it until it leaks at around that temp. As it warms it will begin spilling. When 40C is hit I pull the probe and cap it. You can go past 40C, but as you approach 50C more and more fluid will come out as it expands. By 50C, the fluid level will be too low. If you reach that point, basically you have to stop everything, let it cool back down to 30C and refill, try again. As Brutal suggests, the fill instructions say that somewhere in the range of 40C to 50C the level will be acceptable.
If you haven't done one, and so you don't panic, the fluid temp rises rather slowly. 1C every couple of minutes. It is not going to shoot the temp off the scale before you can react.
#56
08-15-2010, 01:42 PM
#57
08-15-2010, 01:44 PM
#58
08-15-2010, 02:07 PM
Veteran Member
The 6HP26 varies somewhat between car models but if yours is essentially like the S-Type you can't change the sleeve without removing the pan.
Grab the ZF manual, it's on their site and/or the net, and you should be able to find the actual part #. You may find a Search here will find you the details.
Grab the ZF manual, it's on their site and/or the net, and you should be able to find the actual part #. You may find a Search here will find you the details.
#59
08-15-2010, 05:35 PM
Senior Member
#60
08-16-2010, 11:41 AM
I have a 2005 XJ super V8 with 62k miles on it. will be changing the transmission oil with Red line D4 and was hoping not to change pan this time. But I see a bit a leak that I think it might be from the connector. Could the connector be changed without taking the pan out? What's your thoughts and thanks.